Jump to content

cbr046

Members
  • Posts

    1,232
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

cbr046 last won the day on August 5 2023

cbr046 had the most liked content!

Required Information

  • FirstName
    Bob
  • Make
    Holiday Ramber
  • Model
    Endeavor
  • Year
    2003
  • City & State
    Flowery Branch, GA

Optional Information

  • Brief Bio (Optional)
    Forever Young
  • Profile (Optional)
    Two dogs, a wife and a motorcycle

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

cbr046's Achievements

363

Reputation

6

Community Answers

  1. Sometimes I get a clunk also. The front left side panel around the wheel and fuel door panel aren't secured all that well and it may be wind hitting it just right. It's very infrequent in my case. - bob
  2. After 26 hours you should be near normal temps (0F freezer, 36F fridge), certainly better than 47 / 62. It's possible you lost some of the refrigerant causing the Not-So-Cold condition. They can corrode near the flame and the horrid yellow dust gets hidden by the insulation around the boiling tube (flame part). It's non-serviceable. 23 years? Stick a fork in it. It's done. - bob
  3. Finding the right connectors to use that existing cable is the trick. Many come close but Sony went with a proprietary connector made out of unobtanium. I went with a Chinese wireless camera then spliced into the audio wire pair to run +12V to the camera, and mounted it above the existing built in camera. I had to hack into the Sony monitor to isolate the audio pair. Now I can see the hitch (OEM) *AND* the end of the trailer (Chinese), and it's good enough to view clearance while pulling back into lane. Not the best camera (Yakry in this case) but gets the job done. I bought the forward mounted camera so I could record traffic in front. Between the split screen and horrible user interface the forward camera was a waste of money. You might consider making a shroud for brightness . . . . - bob
  4. And with an appointment they can do the work in a few hours . . . That includes putting in a new absorption unit or compressor. - bob
  5. I was wondering why mine would chirp once/minute . . . . End of life! I replaced it with this PANGAEA RV Carbon Monoxide & Propane Dual Gas Detector for $55 as the OEM Safety-T-Alert was over double the cost. I did have to make an adapter mounting plate to cover the huge ugly hole Monaco put in the original mount. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CBVY4WRY/ I make the mistake of soldering it in with a grounded soldering iron. My fuse is in the front run bay (2003 Endeavor). It looks like Amazon reduced the price of one of their Safe-T-Alerts dual detector to $70. MTI Industries seem to have several models that do the same thing . . . . - bob
  6. You can read the print on the wires for extra clues, but I don't see the same connector that I have (3x3 Molex style). It may be shoved somewhere else under the dash. So much fun laying on your back twisting your body around the driver's seat jammed between the steering column and the pedals. - bob
  7. $5000 can buy a lot of lithium / solar. Oh yeah, and a new fridge too. 😉 Does the boiler (part with the flame / heat elements) get hot? If so everything is working, except the chemistry. I've heard of the refrigerant crystalizing inside the tube and a few hard blows knocking everything lose. It might be urban legend, don't know. Worth a try . . . maybe with a rubber mallet. You might get lucky and run across a new camper's propane fridge being replaced for a residential. That's what we did but it took months to run across a unit. Good luck, - bob
  8. Only a diverter (angled sheet of flashing). It's not the best setup as sometimes I detect propane fumes into the coach while driving. While parked no issues, and I run on propane except when parked at home. - bob
  9. We bought a Dometic RM1350 when our Norcold 1200 bit the dust. It was a perfect fit, except the flue was on the wrong side. - bob
  10. A relay doesn't have polarity, just inductance and resistance. Maybe if a relay had a clamping diode on it, but those are usually in circuit. It's a 560 ohm 2W, should be ~ 24ma, installed over two years ago. I should pull it out and check it but it's soooo much fun crawling under that greasy mess . . . and it's raining then turning cold. Spring is in the air, just not in the next few days LOL. BTW, the Warning Light is on with key, goes out then comes on 1 - 4 sec after the Wait to Start light goes out. It varies. What's really baffling me is it came on when I went to leave from camping. Drove 200 miles with it on, checked fluids and PS fluid was low (steering box leak). Topped it off and the Warning Light went out and stayed out for several more trips. Here's the baffling part: THERE'S NO SENSOR ON THE PS FLUID RESEVOIR! 😮 - bob
  11. I reset misfire codes with the ScanGauge on my old gasser, so some codes can be reset for sure. I don't know that codes keep popping up. The shop just said there was a history of "hi oil pressure" codes. As long as I'm investing in a scanner . . . . which one is best to use on the road, then see and reset codes? BlueFire, ScanGuage D or a dedicated shop scanner? I remember that not having the lift pump connected would generate a Warning Light, and I have a cheater resistor in it's place, but would the lack of a lift pump generate a code to go with the Light? - bob
  12. @saflyer I found the gremlin, and the mysterious connector "under the dash". Turns out it was inside the steering housing. I was actually chasing something else when discovered. One jumper is for headlights, the other is for running & marker lights. Next time I get a whiff of burning plastic I know where to look! - bob
  13. If the fuse checks out ok consider this jumper I just found today inside the steering housing. The burnt part is the headlight jumper. The other jumper is for parking and marker lights. Just something to consider. - bob
  14. Still fighting my Warning Light . . . . Would a BlueFire be able to reset a code like hi oil pressure? Scan D? Also considering a dedicated scanner like this one, except it wouldn't be very useful at 65 mph. https://www.amazon.com/Reader-Automotive-Diagnostic-Autophix-Scanner/dp/B018YSNIEY/ And no guarantee it can reset all codes. Thoughts? - bob
  15. Just got ours in GA - Progressive increased it 5% to $1131 (annual policy) - b
×
×
  • Create New...