-
Posts
1,232 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Forums
Downloads
Articles
Gallery
Blogs
Events
Store
Everything posted by cbr046
-
strange "clunk" below floor
cbr046 replied to Jim McGarvie's topic in Chassis, Handling, Tires & Brakes
Sometimes I get a clunk also. The front left side panel around the wheel and fuel door panel aren't secured all that well and it may be wind hitting it just right. It's very infrequent in my case. - bob -
After 26 hours you should be near normal temps (0F freezer, 36F fridge), certainly better than 47 / 62. It's possible you lost some of the refrigerant causing the Not-So-Cold condition. They can corrode near the flame and the horrid yellow dust gets hidden by the insulation around the boiling tube (flame part). It's non-serviceable. 23 years? Stick a fork in it. It's done. - bob
-
Rear Camera/Cable - Sony Replacement? Or Newer Technology?
cbr046 replied to LakeBob's topic in Audio, Video, & Electronics
Finding the right connectors to use that existing cable is the trick. Many come close but Sony went with a proprietary connector made out of unobtanium. I went with a Chinese wireless camera then spliced into the audio wire pair to run +12V to the camera, and mounted it above the existing built in camera. I had to hack into the Sony monitor to isolate the audio pair. Now I can see the hitch (OEM) *AND* the end of the trailer (Chinese), and it's good enough to view clearance while pulling back into lane. Not the best camera (Yakry in this case) but gets the job done. I bought the forward mounted camera so I could record traffic in front. Between the split screen and horrible user interface the forward camera was a waste of money. You might consider making a shroud for brightness . . . . - bob -
Propane and CO2 detector Replacement
cbr046 replied to dennis.mcdonaugh's topic in General Motorhome Discussion
I was wondering why mine would chirp once/minute . . . . End of life! I replaced it with this PANGAEA RV Carbon Monoxide & Propane Dual Gas Detector for $55 as the OEM Safety-T-Alert was over double the cost. I did have to make an adapter mounting plate to cover the huge ugly hole Monaco put in the original mount. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CBVY4WRY/ I make the mistake of soldering it in with a grounded soldering iron. My fuse is in the front run bay (2003 Endeavor). It looks like Amazon reduced the price of one of their Safe-T-Alerts dual detector to $70. MTI Industries seem to have several models that do the same thing . . . . - bob -
You can read the print on the wires for extra clues, but I don't see the same connector that I have (3x3 Molex style). It may be shoved somewhere else under the dash. So much fun laying on your back twisting your body around the driver's seat jammed between the steering column and the pedals. - bob
-
$5000 can buy a lot of lithium / solar. Oh yeah, and a new fridge too. 😉 Does the boiler (part with the flame / heat elements) get hot? If so everything is working, except the chemistry. I've heard of the refrigerant crystalizing inside the tube and a few hard blows knocking everything lose. It might be urban legend, don't know. Worth a try . . . maybe with a rubber mallet. You might get lucky and run across a new camper's propane fridge being replaced for a residential. That's what we did but it took months to run across a unit. Good luck, - bob
-
Engine Monitoring - Aladdin, ScanGaugeD, BlueFire, & VMSpec
cbr046 replied to Rick A's topic in Audio, Video, & Electronics
A relay doesn't have polarity, just inductance and resistance. Maybe if a relay had a clamping diode on it, but those are usually in circuit. It's a 560 ohm 2W, should be ~ 24ma, installed over two years ago. I should pull it out and check it but it's soooo much fun crawling under that greasy mess . . . and it's raining then turning cold. Spring is in the air, just not in the next few days LOL. BTW, the Warning Light is on with key, goes out then comes on 1 - 4 sec after the Wait to Start light goes out. It varies. What's really baffling me is it came on when I went to leave from camping. Drove 200 miles with it on, checked fluids and PS fluid was low (steering box leak). Topped it off and the Warning Light went out and stayed out for several more trips. Here's the baffling part: THERE'S NO SENSOR ON THE PS FLUID RESEVOIR! 😮 - bob -
Engine Monitoring - Aladdin, ScanGaugeD, BlueFire, & VMSpec
cbr046 replied to Rick A's topic in Audio, Video, & Electronics
I reset misfire codes with the ScanGauge on my old gasser, so some codes can be reset for sure. I don't know that codes keep popping up. The shop just said there was a history of "hi oil pressure" codes. As long as I'm investing in a scanner . . . . which one is best to use on the road, then see and reset codes? BlueFire, ScanGuage D or a dedicated shop scanner? I remember that not having the lift pump connected would generate a Warning Light, and I have a cheater resistor in it's place, but would the lack of a lift pump generate a code to go with the Light? - bob -
@saflyer I found the gremlin, and the mysterious connector "under the dash". Turns out it was inside the steering housing. I was actually chasing something else when discovered. One jumper is for headlights, the other is for running & marker lights. Next time I get a whiff of burning plastic I know where to look! - bob
-
If the fuse checks out ok consider this jumper I just found today inside the steering housing. The burnt part is the headlight jumper. The other jumper is for parking and marker lights. Just something to consider. - bob
-
Engine Monitoring - Aladdin, ScanGaugeD, BlueFire, & VMSpec
cbr046 replied to Rick A's topic in Audio, Video, & Electronics
Still fighting my Warning Light . . . . Would a BlueFire be able to reset a code like hi oil pressure? Scan D? Also considering a dedicated scanner like this one, except it wouldn't be very useful at 65 mph. https://www.amazon.com/Reader-Automotive-Diagnostic-Autophix-Scanner/dp/B018YSNIEY/ And no guarantee it can reset all codes. Thoughts? - bob -
Just got ours in GA - Progressive increased it 5% to $1131 (annual policy) - b
-
Removing shepherd steering box
cbr046 replied to Rgoodman's topic in Chassis, Handling, Tires & Brakes
Your 02 Diplomat is pretty much identical to our 03 Endeavor. I just went through this and couldn't get them to budge either. Sadly, my 40" breaker bar is a "flex" model so I only had so much movement before it flexed to an obstruction. Even with another 36" pipe extension it was no good. I did find a path through the front hatch to the top nuts, but still no joy (muscle deficiency, obstruction). This included the purchase of a 3:1 torque multiplier and still couldn't budge it. And the purchase of a 1200W induction heater. The bottom nut got hot enough to smoke but not red hot. Shoulda bought the 1800W model? I ended up writing a check. Just got it back yesterday. 🙂 - bob -
TYC is a Chinese company that makes aftermarket lights, lenses and such. Probably won't be able to get just the gaskets . . . . https://www.amazon.com/TYC-11-5008-80-1-Ford-Left-Replacement/ - bob
-
My Warning Light comes & goes. I just got it back from service (TRW steering gear installed). They checked for codes and got multiples of "hi oil pressure" code. Hmmm . . . bad sensor? My manual says Warning Light is for "Out of range condition exists within the engine protection circuits. Stop coach, check all fluid levels.". I first got the light when my hyd / power steering fluid was low. It's not low . . . . coolant level is ok, too. Trans fluid checked by keypad (ok). Like flynwalter I'm not sure where to turn. - bob
-
I'm also a fan of running tires until they start having an issue, but last November I checked my 11 yr old Sumitomo's before leaving on a trip and when I got there, 200 miles later, I had this in my left steer. This was after driving up to 70 mph down hills on 2 lane in rural Alabama. I'm lucky, thanks be to God, to be alive . . . . NEVER drive faster than your guardian Angel(s) can fly. They were with me that day. I had a spare tire but no tools to remove the wheel, much less tire tools to unmount and mount a tire on the wheel. There was a tire shop down the road the locals said could fix it, but he didn't open until Monday. Nope, he didn't do big rig tires but he did recommend this guy about 10 miles away. I didn't wait for "Blow Out Tire Company" to open but instead drove gingerly another 10 miles to a nearby (big name) interstate truck stop. The sweet lad there removed the wheel, unmounted the tire and mounted my 20 yr old spare Michelin for $35 cash. He was happy, I was happy. What a deal. I'd been keeping an eye on tires for months (years?). I ordered new Sumitomos online from Simpletire.com while camping and had them on the coach on Wednesday. I chose Sumitomos as an alternative to the more expensive Toyos, which I would choose over Goodyear or Michelin. This was my 2nd set of Sumis (first set ordered on a previous coach). Good bet I won't stretch my tires 11 years again. Ten maybe . . . . - bob
-
Strange behavior… Engine will not shut off?!?
cbr046 replied to Bigdogracing's topic in General Motorhome Discussion
Our sister ship Endeavor is 10 yrs older so design may have changed since then, but I have a relay in the rear run bay that connects chassis & house (operated by the dash Boost switch). I doubt that's an issue. There's a second relay inside the front run bay on the PC Board that connects chassis & house. I'd start by disabling that relay, ALL terminals, and see what happens. Then, with chassis side disconnected, see if the wire turns on that relay is activated. There's also a bare wire (on mine) that serves a purpose, although I'm kinda clueless what the engineers were thinking with that bare wire, but make sure it's not touching something. You might take that relay (if yours has it) and just remove the energizing wire. Do dash instruments turn off? Does that wire always have 12V? What drives that wire? I don't know . . . . I (obviously) don't have a solution, just suggesting a troubleshooting path. - bob -
Strange behavior… Engine will not shut off?!?
cbr046 replied to Bigdogracing's topic in General Motorhome Discussion
I think you're on to something . . . . - b -
The induction cooktop and microwave are power hungry but for short periods. Your fridge is a small load but runs 50% of the time all day. Your 3 AC units are the real hogs. I doubt they're even connected to the inverter, which is fed by chassis batteries which are recharged by solar. If nothing else those panels shade your roof resulting in less air conditioning needed. Can you share the cost with the park owner for an external roof? - bob
-
Strange behavior… Engine will not shut off?!?
cbr046 replied to Bigdogracing's topic in General Motorhome Discussion
@Bigdogracing I know yours is a 2013 but according to an old 2004 print there's a remote start switch on some models (if you have remote start) . . . pull the switch out? That will help you track down the source, like a back-feeding BIRD. Easy to disconnect the BIRD, but I don't see how it could be the source (unless it's shorting to trigger terminals internally). - bob -
Strange behavior… Engine will not shut off?!?
cbr046 replied to Bigdogracing's topic in General Motorhome Discussion
I'd be tempted to pull the ignition relay with the engine running and see what happens. Just tempted, mind you. . . . . - bob -
I Googled "cummins isc serpentine belt routing" and got lots of hits, but they weren't much help . . . . . Crazy idea: Take a string and route it like the serpentine belt with AC NOT tensioned by the tensioner. Compare that length (A) with the length of the broken belt (B). This gives a comparison of a "straight line measurement" with that of proper length belt. Then route the string without routing around the AC. We'll call this measurement (C). Subtract C - (B-A). That's my best guess approach to spec'ing a belt length without AC. Make sure you have the right number of ribs and shape ('V' vs round, etc). Good luck. - bob