Tom Wallis

For the rear the spots you've circled would be fine but I wouldn't use that cross bar you've circled for the front. It may not be heavy enough. The axle is usually about as good as it gets.

We have the T-Mobile senior plan, two unlimited lines for $60 per month. Then we have T-Mobile Home Internet for $50 per month, $110 total. We have never really had any problem with the T-Mobile coverage wherever we go with the cell phones but we don't use the T-Mobile Home Internet in the motorhome. I have heard that some do use it on the road with good success. We have Starlink on the Motorhome which I love. That gives us high speed internet and use of our cell phones on Wifi everywhere! I'm actually set up so we can use of the Starlink when we're at home as well. The only reason I haven't dumped the T-Mobile Home Internet is so the connected devices at home will still work when we're not there. I realize this doesn't address your specific question, I just thought I'd through it out there.

That appears to be an electric hot water control valve and it could possibly be going bad. Try turning the temperature control to cold and see if it stops. Does the temp control work effectively at controlling the heater temperature? That might give some clues. If it didn't make noise before then it may be about to fail.

I replaced mine with these LEDs from Amazon and I really like them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODVEWPG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Replacing the pinion bearing is not a maintenance thing. It's not something to dig into unless there is a problem. I doubt there is a problem with it but if the shop replaces the seal for you they will know if there is an issue. Otherwise it's just a seal replacement.

Yes, I didn't say much about the ujoint r&r but it can be tricky also. Polishing those hole inside can definitely help with reassembly. I usually just use a big hammer for disassembly and if replacing the ujoint not much care is required. When installing ujoints much care has to be given to getting both sides of the yoke into the cups and keeping both sides engaged before any hammering or jostling occurs. I often get asked if something is easy and my favorite reply is "Everything is easy if you know how to do it." You might try replacing the pinion seal but I would not recommend trying anything with the pinion bearing unless you detect a problem with it. That is a much more complicated job and not recommended for the inexperienced.

Replacing the pinion seal would not be considered a big job for an experienced mechanic but it could pose some problems for the novice. I wouldn't use a stop leak. I would replace the ujoint without question. Don't worry about getting a micrometer to check the pinon bearing, it is preloaded and should always have zero play. If there is play of any amount, take it to the shop. The ujoint shouldn't be hard to replace but the hard part will be the pinion nut. It is installed with a great deal of torque and you'll need a 3/4" ratchet and probably a cheater or a 3/4" drive air impact to get it off. Not all 3/4" drive sockets will fit inside the yoke to get on that nut either. You don't necessarily need a slide hammer to remove the seal but that's the easiest way. When installing the new one it best to have a piece of pipe or something about the same diameter of the seal to drive the new seal in. Make sure the seal surface on the yoke is clean and smooth before reinstalling it.

If your battery is reading 5v because it has discharged to that level and hasn't been charged yet then it will probably be fine once you charge it. If you try to charge it for a while and then it reads 5v it could be what Tom Cherry is describing. Running a lead acid battery dead doesn't usually destroy it but just shortens it's life a little. If it charges up okay it will probably be fine. My chassis battery has been inadvertently run dead several times and it is 7 years old and still going. I say this assuming that your battery is not charging while on shore power. My monarch wasn't designed to charge the chassis battery from shore power until I modified it. I don't now if your was designed to or if it failed.

Here is a picture of what I needed for mine. It threads onto the 1/2" pipe threads and gets crimped in the 1/2" PEX hose. Yours is different on the bottom end and uses what I believe is called a Flair-it fitting to attach to the PEX hose. Mine came from the hardware store but I'm not sure if they'll have a Flair-it to FNPT fitting at the hardware store or if you'll have to try an RV supplier. I think this is it. https://www.amazon.com/Flair-16816-Plastic-Swivel-Elbow/dp/B000BQSUX2/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.o4FslaVU3mlSt9DetkSMKtSGP0oDaSlrP2DopN7Q4jCoKHciJSfRGyBJ3fNh9ubaPviWTYUlHoq2lks1O_n2ULoAXPBcWkcXgXHFmwygKwR8VxEoRmF_e2NQeLFhSewKYNqp-UtqG5ACWd1uSAXjACyK2cpKBjpt0rDsV6NzW3sOAE5QDbiL_cIoOTkjKUFMPxjlxB8DWWfcN7UVx72I9SQLse5aTWij5QtLPEbahl79QfMISyltygSD91YCk86DF8trE0U-GZwZKW6I4Yg8RfTuIS3Nqf8dO0c-zX5iw-A.XZdhR6bs9MCBpge-QmV4E3pxgNhYzA6_tPY6_KcP-Ag&dib_tag=se&keywords=Flair-It%2BFemale%2BSwivel%2BElbow%2B1%2F2%2Bx%2B1%2F2&qid=1708064956&sr=8-3&th=1

At this time of year I see lots of questions concerning both storing and camping in below freezing temperatures. I'd like to share some information and experience. I spent 12 year in Northern British Columbia where winter temperatures often got to -40 F as both a mechanic and an equipment operator. I've been RVing for over 20 years and now live in Nevada where temps can get down to Zero. I have both stored and camped in single digit temps. I've never winterized an RV. We like to use the motorhome all year round so I use electric heat to prevent freezing when parked. It's in a barn not a shop. I have a 1500W space heater in the kitchen, a 500W space heater in the bathroom and a 300W heater in the water bay. They are all Wifi controlled and set to about 40 degrees. I can monitor from my phone. If the temperature is extremely low I might turn on the electric water heater element. I don't drain the water heater. Moving on to batteries. I keep my motorhome plugged in at all times when parked. I can't see any reason why you shouldn't as long as your on board charging system is multi stage. This means it drops to about a 13.2V float charge when full. Most every RV built in the last 25 years is equipped with this type of charger. When I got the motorhome it wasn't set up to maintain my chassis battery while plugged in so I modified it. Some do and some don't. The freezing temperature for a charged battery is -94 F, at 50% SOC it's -4 F and a dead battery is 32 F. I'm referring to flooded lead acid batteries. I have no experience with Lithium or LiFePO4. My 6V golf cart batteries are 6 years old and going strong. I know a lot of people feel they should start their engines periodically when in storage. At least in cold weather that's probably more detrimental than helpful. There is no benefit and one of the hardest things on an engine is a cold start made even worse by not bring everything up to operating temperature by a good drive. Your generator on the other hand should be exercised periodically for the electrical end of it. That could be done on warmer days. A brief word on propane. Nothing to worry about here. Propane works good down to -40 F. Propane actually boils at -42 F when not under pressure, so around -40 you don't get enough pressure from the tank to run anything without applying heat to the tank. Not to many of you will run into that. Now for engine antifreeze. A 50/50 mix is ideal but here's a little known fact. Just a 10% antifreeze mix will prevent freeze damage at nearly any temperature. It just turns to slush. You can't operate in low temps with it because it will slush up in the radiator stopping circulation and causing your engine to overheat. When camping with hookups in below freezing weather you can run an electric heater in the water bay. If you don't have electric heat in the water bay but you run your furnace to heat the inside, at least in my motorhome it adds enough heat to the basement to prevent freezing down into the single digits. Anytime temps will get below freezing at night I leave my water and sewer hose put away. I just get them out to fill the water tank or dump as needed and put them away again. I have a heated fresh water hose but I find it more of a hassle than just filling my water tank. If you are expecting snow put your slides in. If you don't you're liable to have to go up and sweep them before retracting. I learned that one the hard way. Just remember, results may very! Some of my techniques may not work for everyone or in all situations but I hope every one can find some useful information here.

Yes, thanks for the info. I ordered one this morning. Couldn't pass up the price.

To add oil you would pull out the blue plug and squirt some in the hole. The one in the picture is fine though. The oil should come up to just below the hole. Any suitable gear lube should be fine. You really don't need to worry about changing it for a long time.

My septic tank is on the opposite side of my house from my shop. It's a good 200' or more away from where I park the motorhome. I buried 3/4" ABS line about 5" deep right from the motorhome to the clean out near the septic. I have a short hose attached to it on the motorhome end. When I get home with full tanks I attach a macerator between the motorhome and the hose and dump it all into the septic tank. When I finish I flush the line with clean water from a garden hose. When I use it in the winter I follow up with compressed air to make sure it doesn't freeze. I've been doing it that way for 4 years. It works great.

Sorry, I guess I was way out in left field. I can definitely see thee roller in the new photos.

I don't know any thing about that particular slide but it appears to me that the damaged area lines up perfectly with what looks like a board wedged under the slide. The picture is not real clear so if I'm way out in left field just let me know.

I've been over ever inch of my coach and I haven't seen anyplace that would be obvious. There's probably room near the original battery with some fabricating. I'm just curious though, why would you want a second battery? I'm still using the battery that came with the coach when I bought it in 2016. It was new at the time. I've never had a problem and there's always the battery boost switch on the dash that connects it to the coach batteries. (I have been thinking about replacing it soon but just because it's 7 years old).

Henderson's Line Up is great and I have been to them. But if I'm not mistaken they primarily do suspension, alignment and brake work and they are very good at it and come highly recommended. I'm not sure how much they do beyond that. https://www.hendersonslineup.com/

I did almost the exact same thing to all my fluorescent lights about 5 years ago. So far I haven't found anything not to like about the switch. I used more strips in mine than Brad because we wanted them bright. They ended up brighter than the old fluorescent lights. Cheaper, brighter, less power consumption and maintenance free for the last 5 years. Just watch what color temp you use. You can end up with some undesirable tints. Mine ended up the same as the old bulbs, they were called natural white 4000k.

I also have the 8.1 Workhorse chassis and I just replace my compressor last fall. I got all the the parts from Brazel's including a pressure hose and receiver dryer. I've bought many other parts from them as well and I would highly recommend them. Ultra RV is their website.

Who is FiberNew and where are they located. I need the exact same thing. Mine came like that also.

You could tap into another power source but for me that would be the last resort. It can cause other issues a some point like knowing where the new fuse is in the future. I would at least try this this first: Remove the fuse and disconnect the power plug from the radio. Now put a continuity tester across the power lead and the ground lead of the power plug. A powered light will work but a meter with a buzzer is better. If you do have a short the meter will be buzzing. Then follow the wires back from the plug as far as you can till they disappear into some into some inaccessibly spot. Inspect and wiggle them and if the buzzer gets intermittent you know you're close to the problem. If the buzzer never changes then the problem may not be under the dash. You can perform the same test any where the wires are accessible. If that doesn't turn up the problem then my next choice would be to run a new power line from the fuse to the radio and if that seems too labor intensive for you then you can look for a new power source. Be sure to fuse it and leave instructions somewhere for the fuse location.

Interesting that I just ordered a set of Koni shocks for mine. They're supposed to be here on Tuesday. My chassis is way different being a Workhorse but my handling problems are similar. I did a bunch of suspension upgrades when I first got the motorhome and it has handled pretty good since until recently. I have a rear sway bar, front and rear track bars and and a safety steer but my last few trips have been white knuckle. It had Konis on it when I bought it but that was more than 55,000 miles ago. I can't find any play at all in the front end so I figure I'll try some new shocks. Besides, I get way to much rock back and forth when doing a gutter or driveway at an angle. I hope this does the trick. At least I think mine will be much easier to put on than Rik's.

14 volts should not boil your batteries unless one of them is defective. 17 volts would definitely be a problem though. You need to check the voltage at the batteries with a voltmeter and see which it is. If the charging voltage at the batteries is less than 15 and the batteries are boiling then you need to look for a shorted cell. Usually it will be the cell that's not boiling. Or if the disconnected voltage on a battery is 2 volts low. If the charging voltage is over 15 volts then whether it's the alternator or the solar that needs to be fixed.

Mine is the two-piece aluminum roof also. I was just up there today and the hole is right on the seam about 20" to 24" back from the front cap seam. But I assumed it was drilled by who ever installed the satellite. I don't know if that was done at the factory or by a dealer.

The hole in mine is about 2 or 3 feet back from the front cap seam in the seam between the 2 halve the the roof. It's about 11/4" in diameter so it would have been hard to miss if you removed all the seam tape. Originally I put a patch over it but I have since redone the seam tape and now there's no trace of it.