Florainer

Includes: Roadmaster RR8S chassis, 8 airbags, 8 shocks, Cummins ISL 400 engine w/Allison 3000 transmission, 4 solar panels w/TriStar solar charger, Magnum 2000 watt inverter w/BMK, Koni FSD shocks on front, 228" wheelbase for smaller turning radius (very helpful!), Onan 7.5KW diesel generator, one-piece fiberglass roof, slide radiator for easy engine access, fold out couch, passenger electric footrest, full body paint. Beautiful golden oak cabinets and doors. Quality construction throughout. Optional car-towing package and 2014 Honda CRV available. 2014 is the last year Honda made the CRV for four down towing. 83,670 miles as of printing. Electric Awnings, rear flat screen TV. Located in Florida. Ask questions! Price reduced to $42,000

I wanted to give an update on this topic, for future reference in case it helps. Yesterday the replacement relays that I ordered on eBay arrived from China. I installed and tested the setup, and now the slide outs both work properly. So this, for us, was the problem and the solution. The two replacement relays cost $18.16. Our slide out control board is in a different location than Dan T's, so we didn't have that condensation problem. Thanks for the help given on this!

Thank you very much for your prompt reply! I'm glad to hear you've had such success with Restor-A-Finish. I've looked at the SDS on Howard's website, and as of now I'm a little concerned about the ingredients: Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy paraffinic, Distillates (petroleum), light hydrotreated, Isopropanol, etc. I was hoping for a more natural product, but maybe these ingredients are fine, they just sound concerning due to their chemical descriptions. Any comments about this would be greatly appreciated! P.S. I'm familiar with Howard Products, so I won't confuse it with a different product.

We have a 2003 HR Imperial that has lots of beautiful golden oak cabinets and woodwork in it. The cabinets and woodwork look a little dry in some places, it seems to me they could look a bit better. We haven't done any maintenance to them in the 5-1/2 years we've owned the rig. We want to retain the current "open wood" look, it's very important that we don't change it to a sealed look, like it's been varnished or anything like that! How are these cabinets and woodwork finished? Is it with oil? With wax? Something else? I found an article online that had tests for wood finishes. The test for an oil finish was to rub a few drops of boiled linseed oil into the wood - if it absorbs the wood has an oil finish, if it beads the wood has a "hard" finish. Per this article the test for a waxed finish is to scratch it lightly in an inconspicuous spot with your fingernail. If you can see the scratch, and if you then can buff it out with a soft cloth then your wood is waxed. I haven't tried these tests yet, I wondered what owners on this forum would have to say about and know this subject. What do others who have genuine, beautiful golden oak cabinets and wood do to maintain theirs? Thanks very much for the help!

I'm sorry for the delay in this post on how this situation currently stands, but we took the rig on a short trip over the last few days, and I wanted to see how the slides performed during that trip. Before the trip a neighbor came by, and he suggested pulling the relays off the slide-out control board, and swapping their positions on the board to see what effect that would have. The result has been that if the relay in the "main slide-out relay" position is swapped with the relay in the "rear slide-out relay" position, in one arrangement both slides will go out, but not in, and in the other arrangement they'll come in, but not out. This makes me think that one or both of these relays has gone bad, so I've ordered replacement ones on eBay (that ship from China), since that's the only place I could find them. They are Song Chuan 792H-1C-C relays. Hopefully the new ones will fix the problem. Thanks very much for the help I received with this!

Jim J provided great info on where to find the slide out control board on my rig. This morning I'm working on checking into its condition. We have had leaking from the side panel-to-roof seam above the rear electrical bay, so water has gotten into the bay. That seam has now been caulked with Proseal, but maybe after damage was done to the slide control panel. Thanks very, very much for the wonderful help!

Thanks Richard! Where can I find the slide out control board?

We just took our 2003 HR out of storage, where it had been for 18 months, and tried opening the bedroom slide, but that switch now makes the living room slide open! This has never happened on our rig before. The switch is on the bedroom wall by the TV. Any suggestions on what's causing this and how to fix it? Thanks!

Thanks for all the help! To answer the questions so far, yes, it was stored with a full tank of diesel, with Biobor added. I have one set of spare engine fuel filters, which I'll have with us in the rig. I don't have other spare filters. The rear brakes weren't caged, I just learned about caging from your reply. And thanks for the good luck wish, I expect I'll need it!

Our rig has been in storage in Central Florida for the last 18 months, without either the ISL 400 or the generator having been started. I did put Biobor in the full diesel tank and drive it a bit before storing. What steps should I take in starting these engines after such a long time in storage? Thanks for your help!

Thanks again for all the help!! So far I've checked the top belt molding all along the passenger side of the rig, and found cracks that had developed. These are likely the source of the leaking, especially since the front of the rig is lower than the back, so leaks can run up to the door. I sealed them with ProFlex, and I'm waiting for it to rain some to see if that's fixed it. There is also a strip of small, narrow rubber weatherstripping along the top of the door frame that was loose, with a section missing. I contacted Lazydays in Wildwood about this. They found to correct part number and ordered it for me. I'll see if this helps seal the door when it's raining and windy. I'll use Tom's advice about how to properly install the new strip. The outer seal on the door meets with this small rubber strip to form its seal, so the problems with the strip are significant. I should put newspaper in the damaged carpet area inside the door to see if it gets stained from any further leaking. Thanks again for all your help! Oh, one further mention - there were cracks above the top belt molding on the passenger side, but not the driver's side, I wonder why the difference?

So if the belt molding or door molding needs caulking should I use Geocel ProFlex RV for that? Thanks for wonderful replies!

Thanks for all your great help! I'll check out the things that have been recommended. BTW, the info I have is the Imperial was equivalent to a Monaco Executive, which was "above" the Dynasty and Windsor. It was HR's top-of-the-line. That said, I don't know if we have the air seal or not - guess I'll find out! Thanks again!!

We have a 2003 Holiday Rambler Imperial. The entry door has begun to leak when it rains. The rig has been in storage for almost a year; we didn't notice this problem before then. The problem may be with the door seals. Is a list of what seals this door uses available anywhere? Or is there a recommended company for me to contact about this problem? I'd like to try to fix it myself, rather than have to break down the whole storage setup to move it someplace. Thanks for your help!

Considering all the posts on this site, and on IRV2, about dealing with roof chalk, including Mop & Glo-ing, waxing, painting, etc., why did Monaco/HR not paint the fiberglass roofs of their motorhomes? One reason I can think of is slipperiness, which could add to the danger of going on the roof, but are there other reasons? 🤔 And if the treatments talked about on these sites do increase the slip danger of the roof is that something to consider before going ahead? 🤔

When cleaning the algae (and lichens?) off my roof recently I noticed that there was none on the painted ends, front and rear, or on the narrow painted strip along the sides, It was only on the white area that makes up almost all of the roof. My 2003 HR Imperial has a full-length one-piece fiberglass roof. Why is there no algae/lichens on the painted areas? Also, now that I have it cleaned off (a lot of hard work!), is there anything I can do to discourage its regrowth? The rig is stored here in Florida in the winter, an admittedly ideal condition for algae growth (hot & humid). I've read that copper discourages algae growth, but is that ever used on an RV roof? Thanks for your replies!

I see that the description for the cap sold on Veurink's says "16# with vacuum relief". Do all radiator caps include vacuum relief? Also, Chris T says he runs a 12 LB cap, but I've been unable to find one of those, anyone know where I could find one? Thanks for your help!

I'm asking about this because I'm concerned that the cap that's on it may not be the right one. We bought the motorhome used, and several pieces of engine equipment that were on it were wrong and/or broken. I'd like to make sure it's replaced with the right cap for this installation. Thanks again!

I think our engine coolant tank cap needs replacing. We have the big plastic coolant expansion tank. The engine on our 2003 Holiday Rambler Imperial is a Cummins ISL 400. What cap should we get for this replacement? Thanks for your help!

96 Evo - May I ask where you found the specs that say you should use a 10 micron primary and a 5 micron secondary fuel filter on your rig? It's just surprising to me that Monaco and Cummins would make such changes, considering it's the same engine as mine. You might also try running this by the parts department at Lazydays in Wildwood (The Villages), Florida, as their experience and knowledge of Monacos is most likely one of the best in the country.

If I'm reading it right, Cummins Filtration website shows the FS19738 as a fuel/water separator, and shows no info about its filtration. Is it just a fuel/water separator? Racor part S3201T the 10 micron version of the S3201 filter, it seems surprising that the factory would install a 10 micron as the primary filter, that's the same micron rating as the secondary filter on my rig.

Napa (Gold) has part number FIL600212, which is made by Wix, and the Wix part number is WF10212. Lazydays Wildwood Parts Dept told me the NAPA (Wix) is equivalent to the Racor S3201P. I see they are all 30 micron filters, that use the same bowl. I chose to buy the Racor filter from Diesel Filters Online for $29.65 plus $11.10 shipping because that was the cheapest option I could find, and because I would then have the exact original (by Monaco/HR) filter. If anyone knows of a cheaper option for buying one of these (Racor, NAPA, Wix) filters I'd like to know about it, as $40.75 for a filter seems a bit high (although I get it that it's protecting a very expensive engine). The prices I found for the Racor bowl were all pretty high for a plastic bowl. EBay offered some cheap Chinese knock-offs, but I didn't want to go that route. The Marpac one on eBay seemed a lot more legit, and half the price of a Racor bowl.

To answer Bob U's good question, I can't just look at what's on the rig for either of the filters because I've now learned that the last shop that changed them (in Ohio) put the wrong filters on. However I've finally found what I feel is a reliable answer to my question. I called Lazydays in Wildwood, FL (they were Alliance before Lazydays recently bought them, and Monaco's factory-owned shop in Florida before that. Many of the employees have been there a long time), and was told that the original setup by Monaco for my rig was the Fleetguard FS1022 for the secondary filter, which is what the manual calls out for the (single) filter, and a Racor S3201P for the primary filter. The S3201P crosses to a NAPA FIL600212. Both the S3201P and the FIL600212 are 30 micron filters, that use the clear plastic bowl on the bottom. When we took our rig to Cummins in Syracuse, NY they installed a Fleetguard FS1212 for the primary filter, which is what Fleetguard crosses the S3201P to, but the FS1212 is a 20 micron filter without the clear bowl on the bottom. We had just bought the rig (used) then, and I don't remember what primary filter it had when we got it, but someone along the way switched the rig away from the original configuration, and threw the plastic bowl away in the process. So now I've bought a Racor S3201P from Diesel Filters Online, and an equivalent to a RK30475 plastic bowl assembly (made by Marpac) on eBay. Oh, and a Fleetguard FS1022 on Amazon. Too much detail? Sorry! I'm just hoping this helps some other Monacoers. Thanks! P.S. The Ohio shop put a 14 micron filter on as the primary (should have been 30), and a 2 micron filter on as the secondary (should have been 10). Too easy to clog up, I would think. Monaco and Cummins chose the 30 and 10 for a reason.

Our 2003 Holiday Rambler Imperial (RR8S chassis) has an ISL 400 engine. The engine manual only gives the part number for a single fuel filter, but our rig has two fuel filters. The manual calls for a Fleetguard FS1022 (10 micron), which I assume would be for the secondary filter. But what should we use for the primary filter? The Roadmaster chassis manual doesn't give a part number for this. Thanks for your help with this!

The manual for our ISL 400 engine says, for a recreational vehicle, the oil drain interval is 18,000 miles, or 500 hours, or 12 months. We drive our motorhome far fewer than 18,000 miles or 500 hours a year, so it seems the number of months is the controlling parameter. However this time specification may expect that the engine is being used continually during those months. But our motorhome sits in storage for six months a year. So does time not being run count the same as time running? Is the oil drain interval the same for an engine that sits idle half the time? What engine oil change interval would the readers of this forum recommend for a rig that has this (common, I would think) situation, and why? Thank you very much for your help!