Robert92867

I had to lay this out many years ago to see if I could make a certain turn.

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I had a similar clunk.

Excuse my ignorance... those are in an '04 Dynasty?

3 is a trans cooler, 4 is a/c condensor, and you got 2. So that looks like PAG oil seeping out. Those micro-channel aluminum a/c condensors are generally considered a throw away item, even if the crack is readily assessable, the aluminum is too contaminated to reliably weld. A search for dash a/c related terms will yield many postings from qualified a/c techs on this forum. I'm not seeing any oil seepage around the o-ring fittings, so either a crack or migrating from somewhere else is my guess. First thing I would do is clean the area well and try to spot the leak.

Engine-driven air compressor failure would mean the motorhome would have to be towed and out of commision sitting in a shop for a month or more, probably thousands of miles from home. I saw a OEM/NOS for my model, listed on ebay in 2022 so I bought it and carry it as a spare when long-distance traveling. I think it was just under $400. OEM is no longer obtainable at any price. Chinese-made takes 3 weeks to ship from Guangzhou. Installing it requires pulling the front timing cover, removing the hydraulic pump, and more. Maybe I was hasty in buying the part. Maybe a better plan would have been to identify the part and know where to get a replacement. It was definitely an impulse-buy.

I'm getting too old to make a pretty Tig bead like that, but I wouldn't discount removing / re-installing an Allison as being too difficult. Harbor Freight sells a 2,000 # transmission jack for a ridiculously low price. build a cradle to support the engine and the rest is pretty straight forward. I pulled mine in 2022 to replace the rear main oil seal.

Interesting, a tonne is different from a ton.

I don't know the answer to your tag axle lift height. You mention your (2) 20 ton jacks, and 20 or 30 ton air over hydraulic jack, but you didn't say what your jackstands are rated for. I'm assuming they are rated for the load and you are working on a flat concrete slab. HF 3/4" or 1" drive impact wrench with 1/2" air hose (1/2" coupler) connected to your 5hp compressor will do it. I don't know how they figure these claims on impact wrenches, but it took a 3/4" HF Earthquake xt (rated 1700#) with a 50' 1/2" hose and fittings connected to my 5hp compressor at 90 psi to break loose my 33mm lug nuts that were torqued at 400# at a tire shop. Here's how I remove the drive wheels: Jackstand both sides of your axle so your wheels are no more than1" off the ground and can spin freely. Have (2) 2x4x4' to coax the wheels off the hub. The inner is more difficult to remove and re-mount, it tends to get sideways on the studs and lock up, if it does this kick it back against the hub and start over.

In 2006/2007 I was in Indian Oaks Trailer Ranch in Temecula CA. I lived there for 2 years while working at the Lake Skinner WTP Expansion. The voltage was always a little off, one day it was completely off. I toughed it out without power for a few days while they brought in a crew to fix the problem. To my utter amazement, they dug up hundreds of feet of direct buried aluminum conductors (THHN). Some of the conductors were bulged to twice their size with aluminum oxide.

The Canadian Rockies is one of my favorite destinations. Starting in 2023 Parks Canada revised their online reservation system to shunt the overwhelming number of people trying to make reservations on opening day to to new software program called: Queue-it. It was a tense 75 minutes of waiting in "the queue", but I was able to secure the reservations (2) that I was looking for.

A long and twisted thread. Mr. Moderator, when you mention "Our Guru of everything" are you talking about Bill D?

3 fails in 3 years, its time to get to the bottom of this.

Ray's passing fills me with sadness.

Research the do's and dont's of cleaning aluminum and cast iron combustion surfaces, but especially with aluminum, It's very easy to remove too much metal, even with a scotchbrite pad. I went with razor blades, then a light touch with carbide scrapers, and frequent checks with a straight edge and feeler gauge. Don't try to achieve a mirror finish, just enough cleaning to pass < .003 feeler gauge in 4 directions. Keep the cylinder bores coated with oil, don't let rust get a hold on bare iron bores. Get a strong magnifier on the valve seat surfaces. and valve surfaces. You're at a critical point in reassembly. I'm an amateur, and I would have ruined my Cummins engine had it not been for Youtube videos. I hope some real mechanics chime in on this subject.

MODERATOR EDIT This new topic was similar to a recent ongoing topic and has been been merged. END OF EDIT So many of the contact points on my SS Entry Door Hinge - Swing Arm Assembly/scissor hinge, were worn I decided rather than attempt the countersunk rivet replacement procedure detailed in Downloads Section, to just replace the entire assembly. Veurink's RV Center still sells them.. $238 for my model. Replacing the 3/16" blind rivets on top of the door was easy, I used SS rivets for replacement. As anticipated, the #8 countersunk tek screws attaching to the upper door frame were rusted and I broke 2 out of 6. Lucky me, the replacement assembly has 2 screw holes in a different location so I was able to abandon the broke screws and drill in new. I used SS countersunk tek screws to replace all 6. Tight and crisp snapping in the open position like it was 2002 again!

I think you're right about retaining the MDS feature as the most economical fix. Several articles I looked at yesterday indicated a different cam profile was needed for non-MDS engines, some saying a diagnostic code (check engine light) would be illuminated if the camshaft was not changed.

Jegs sells them, but price is $900 because they include a tuner. If you know someone who can tweak your ECM parameters you can piece it from the part numbers shown below.

I admire your persistance. So many options, up to pulling the engine and installing a quality built Long Block. With both heads removed, you have gone past the "minimal repair and sell the toad" stage, and MDS delete is a foregone conclusion. How do the cylinder bores look? Your Mechanic/Neighbor sounds like your best onsite resource for advice.

Can't wait for the next installment... MDS LIFTER

I've never owned a Chrysler product. But I just spent 2 hours following the thread and references and I feel like I've learned a lot, and besides there was nothing good on Netflix tonight. One thing I can't figure out, is the #1 valve stuck open or closed?

OEM parts look cool.

Some of the smaller entry level coachs, like mine, have their propane tanks running parallel to the driveline. So about 4' to the regulator from the hatch. Interestingly, Monaco used the same threaded handhole fitting as beneath the dump outlet to install in the back wall of the storage area in front of the tank manual guage. You unscrew the handhole, and visually check the gauge level.

Yes, I have that manual. That process describes REMOVING the stop ring. That was easy.

Are those oil lines crossing over the alternator?