brokenarrow1244

I really like the post by Jim Pratten, May 2022. The crimp tool has many advantages beyond the door "fix". If we have winds and I want the door open, I use a bungee for safety. Tighten the rivets really helps. I agree with your feeling about alterations. With that in mind, there are a lot of items we need on the older coaches that are no longer available and force us to change some things. The door mod is not easily abandoned if you decide against keeping it. You will make the right choice for sure.

In CA. You could recycle that rim and get a pretty good amount for it. Maybe you could get the original seller to cover the install for it.

If what you say is accurate it is most likely a defect. However, There are some dealers that have what is called " factory seconds" or Reconditioned rims. They are sometimes straightened from being out of round. Also the inner area of the rim needs to be viewed for any scuff marks that may be induced by tire mounting equipment. A Bead Setter might cause it. Possibly getting back to the original seller of the rim may be a great option. I think you will get assistance from them no matter what they see. Often I have seen them supply seconds as new ( more $$ in profits) in place of original factory parts. Maybe your invoice reads a clue into the matter. It may be different than what was verbal. It could still be new, but less than perfect. Polishing rims can cause considerable heat build up. Give them a chance to make it right. Be glad you found it ... either way you are still safe! If that blew apart on the road you might never have known what happened.

My coach has a courtesy rope light that is on a 12v circuit. also have a connection to turn on the pump. If that is of any help for you...great.

Here is a good one to watch watch Dicor.htm

I recommend to review the use of rubbing or denatured alcohol for a surface preparation. Google has a lot of useful information. Also be careful where to use silicone.

RV101 -How to Cleaning and Protecting RV Roof-Dicor Great short video available that gives easy to follow information.

I find myself thinking every day as to how fortunate I am to have access to and to get the awesome and thorough help from the people in this forum. Thanks so much for being available and willing to share your wealth of knowledge! I really appreciate the long version responses to some issues. I have found answers to problems that I was troubleshooting just by reviewing some of the responses to other peoples problems. You are all really great. Thank you again.

I had the same problem after cleaning and then running on propane, did a reset and switched over to shore power and the issue stopped for a while. I contacted my dealer and there was a failure on the recall part, They tested it and they supplied a replacement. That worked fine for a while then I had the total failure of the cooling unit and installed the Amish unit. So far it is okay. Ask the dealer to check the unit and if it has been recalled again

That is where mine is located, behind the closet sliding door.

here is what mine looked like, just remove the metal panel to get a visual of yours Mine acted much like you describe and very similar symptoms, I also had a situation with the 20 amp fuse* (breaker) It acted like it reset but it didnot. and when you change from shore to genset and back... watch things carefully to be sure they come on line as they should. Good Luck

I have really enjoyed so many responses to the problem I am having and still have some questions that maybe someone may have suggestions about. Is there any schematic for the water system on the 2006 Monaco Camelot PPD? Does the Swan valve B54--012-KTZ 3 way ball valve have the ability to operate in the same manner as the original watts valve. The flow indicated on the valve is different. The installation of the hoses was the same but the lever is pointed downward. I am planning to order the check valve to see if that will solve the issue. Another concern is that when I use the onboard pump and the shore supply water, the holding tank level increases. Only since installing the new Swan Valve. The water supply pressure is about a consistant 45lbs to 48lbs.

I got the replacement from Swan, models prior to 2009, B54-021-KTZ 3 Way ball valve. After installing ( took about 3 hours) It seemed to be okay until I disconnected the supply source to the coach. The Swan valve will fill the on board tank, but when I use the onboard water pump, the water goes out of the shore line hose under pressure. If I move the fill valve lever, the only direction it allows to turn it stops water flow. also when in that position the holding tank water gravity drain out of the hose. I also see that my old valve has an "L" flow indicated and the new one does not. I think I got the wrong Valve. Maybe there is something other than that but this is not the right opertaion.

I will look for a glass door shop and see what I can find. So far ,nothing has been found that will work as a replacement part. It seems that the major retailers like Home Depot, and Lowe's have reduced the availability of more personalized services.

I would remove the cover and check the circuit board for signs of a short circuit.