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Nevada Rob

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Everything posted by Nevada Rob

  1. I can not find a tank anywhere. The tank is at a body shop to possibly be plastic welded together. I guess Onan/Cummins figures they are good with a throwaway generator. Maybe I can fab one in the shop that fits perfectly as a replacement. Spend hundreds of hours on prototypes. Then finally get a product dialed in and sell them for a ton of cash???
  2. I checked with them. They are "backordered" according to their answered email.
  3. I did not yet but thanks for the reminder. I will do that. Good to know and thanks for the info.
  4. This just a short FYI kind of post. My AquaHot has seemed to not burn real clean or work real well. Today I installed a new fuel filter and burner nozzle. What I found was that the soft/flexible air intake port material was folded over onto itself where it goes through the floor. I think the burner nozzle and filter were the original and the previous owner was a little less than honest when he told me the unit was freshly serviced. The fuel filter had black body undercoating spray still on it. Besides being an old nozzle and fuel filter with 535 hours on the unit, I think the air restriction was the real problem. After the new nozzle, fuel filter and making sure there was good air intake, that heater seems to run much better. When I fired it up I was shocked at the amount of carbon chunks were blown out the exhaust pipe.
  5. The coolant tank for the generator is cracked in 4 places. I appears that Cummins/Onan has decided to not produce these tanks any longer. I am guessing Cummins is just like a ziplock bag. Use a little then throw it away and get a new one. I have searched the inter-web for a replacement with zero results. Has anyone tried to plastic weld the tanks as a repair? To have a tank custom built is very costly.
  6. I agree with everything Tom wrote. I plug my 2008 Dynasty into the garage/shop GCFI circuit all the time and never have a problem. I keep the refer on almost all the time and it charges the house batteries. If you do not select the 15 amp setting on the inverter incoming then the inverter will draw to many amps from your house/garage circuit and trip the breaker in your panel at home. When you plug into any land based power source you should hear the ATS click or thump. We ran our coach for two weeks on a Honda EU 7000 while out boondocking in Northern Arizona. Just charging the batteries and power for convection oven and big screen TV. You know, roughing it. On a side note, if you ever use a portable generator like a Honda or Yamaha there is a trick to making it work. But that is another story.
  7. I must be the luckiest guy on the planet. The hardest part of installing a brake controller was getting down on the floor and squeezing in between the driver seat and the steering column. At 6' 3" and 215 lbs coupled with a few hard years on the body, I have decided that I am not Gumby like anymore. The plug was hanging right there on the left side of the column waiting to be used. With the all the amazing help this site has and the willingness of many to provide pictures and advise, the whole job took 45 minutes and one cold beer start to finish. The two attached pictures shows all I needed to know.
  8. Thanks for the thoughts. I just cut the factory plug off and wired straight up to the brake controller. Very straight forward. Someone sent over a color layout of the factory wires and what they did. The blue wire and white were as they should be. The only switch is the black and red. The black on the controller is 12 Volts supply. It works good. I have been driving it for two years without trailer brakes towing our enclosed trailer. It is not real heavy or load down but better to get something back there.
  9. I do not believe the trailer brakes are activated by the exhaust brake. The controller only show output when the brakes are applied. Nothing with the exhaust brake. I think everything is good and I used the wires from the factory plug.
  10. The 3035 looks right in the picture but it is hard to tell. I need this done today and I doubt anyone in town that is open today will have what I need. I think that I will cut that plug off and hard wire up with connectors. I have some wire connectors that are very secure and can be used multiple times. They are much better than crimp butt connectors. Thanks for the input. I better get at it before the thunderstorms and heavy rain hits again. Have a great day.
  11. Now to find the correct adapter plug. Maybe a TeKonsha # 3035??
  12. We had the exact same problem with our 2008 Dynasty kitchen slide. The source of the smell was a small crack in the drain line from the sink that moves or flexes when the slide-out moves. It is located under the TV in that space where everything makes the large 90 degree bend to accommodate the movement. I could not see the crack as it was under all the other water lines and cables that are zip tied to the drain hose. IT smelled bad as the grey tank can stink as much as the black. Replacing the hose fixed the problem. I did a desert bush fix with parts from Home Depot. The flexible tube is an odd size. I think my research had it as a tube from the hot tub build world. Best of luck on your situation.
  13. My coach and I are a bit older and have some miles on us. Sometimes we both leak air when we should not. Sometimes we both have a fluid leak that is not normal. Sometimes on cold morning my coach and I do not start as fast as we once did. There have been times when my coach and I both lean a little to the port side. I treat my coach like I treat myself. If I need some preventive maintenance, I go see the doctor. He checks my fluid levels, tightens a few fittings, may adjust a setting or two and I am back on the road. Your coach needs an annual check up with your Primary Care Mechanic. I try to plan the best I can for the "what if's" in life. We all do. But I never let the "what if's" plan my life and program. My input would be to have your coach checked out. Plan the best you can and leave the rest in God's hands.
  14. I just had the same problem. We were out boondocking and had the power cord out to a separate generator and the Starlink cable running up inside the wet bay. If you have the door that lifts up and out then we most likely have the same door. I inflated the left side air bags all the way up. Then laid on the ground and removed the two most outer white access caps. Use a screw driver to get them loose then unscrew and push them inside the compartment. This allows you to reach up inside the compartment and located the horizonal rods that release the latches on either side. Push or pull the rod end into the center of the door. I just used my hands to move the rods. It took two people to do this as my latch mechanism was less than free moving due to rust and corrosion. Once the sides release then push up on the center rod to release the center latch. I opened the door 5 or 6 times this way until the new handle arrived. Trimark still makes the handle. They have many that look very similar. I called the customer service number and the rep was great and very helpful. Together we figured out exactly which part number to order. I sent the rep pictures of what I had and she found a perfect match. The new handle took about 10 days to get delivered and fit perfect. Cost was just under $200.
  15. I replaced mine with a Viair from 4 Wheel Parts. Almost any small 12 compressor will work.
  16. Thank you all for your input. We figured out that if you lift the coach as high as possible on the drivers side with the air bags, crawl under the coach and remove the utilities access plugs, two people can reach up and operate the latching mechanisms on each side of the interior part of the door. The third latching point of the door moves with the side latching rods and cams. Thank you again to all those who offered up suggestions. There is a for sale section on this site correct?
  17. The outside handle on the wet bay latch has broken off on our 2008 Dynasty. There is no possibility of crawling through from the other side to get to the back of the latch mechanism. I can not remember how the upper part of the door latches. The door lifts up vertically and does not swing out like all the other doors. Does anyone have a picture of a door that would be similar to mine. We are out boondocking for the Thanksgiving and have the power cable out to a generator and Starlink. Plus I need to add more water to the tank. This is not a good situation as I can not move the coach until I either get the door open or get out an angle grinder and cutoff wheel and cut the door off. I am really starting to believe that RV stands for "ruins vacation." Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  18. Best advise is to remove the valve and take it to a truck parts supply shop. Don't worry about a part number as a new one may have a different number but will perform the same function. I would go with a Bendix or WABCO for manufactures. It is leaking because some part of it has failed. It will not get better on is own, only worse. I would expect to pay about $100 for the part. Well worth the peace of mind.
  19. My first suggestion would be the rear ride height rod/adjustment. Easy fix. Move rod up for up and down for down. Mine was sagging 2.5 inches on the drivers side after replacing all 10 bags. Leveled it up to a 9" bag height measured from bag mounting plate to plate.
  20. Tom thanks for the info. I struggle finding stuff/topics/past discussions on this site. Looks like most folks are looking to flat tow a vehicle. We tow trailers only with vehicles in them or on them. My new trailer is a 24' MAXXD Drop-N-Load that will carry a RZR and 74 IH Scout. GVW towing will be pushing 10,000 lbs. so I am going to need a very reliable brake controller. Once the weather cools off and drops below 108 everyday I will look where you described for the pre-wired setup. That sure would make things easier than running all wires my self. Thanks again.
  21. Have you looked into the wireless brake controllers? Has anyone gone that route with success?
  22. We had the same type of problem. It turned out to be the flexible sink drain line that moves with the slide out. A small crack in the top side of the flexible hose. I figured that when driving there was just enough pressure put on the vent pipe to send the smell of last nights dinner and peaches and all types of good smells to percolate into the coach.
  23. Wayne Thank you for your encouraging words. I think the main problem with my coach is the lack of use by the previous owner. This 2008 had 23,000 miles on a one owner coach when I bought it 1 1/2 years ago. It sat in his garage for the last 3 years he owned and never moved it, started it, ran the generator or anything. It had 8 "brand new" tires with less than 50 miles on them. All ruined with flat spots and inner case breaking down. The problem with the new coaches is the decline in materials and craftsmanship. I have to fix the air bag problem because we can not use as it is. Sometimes I feel like it is just more money thrown down the drain with no real return.
  24. All the air leaks I have found and fixed had nothing to do with the Valid leveling system directly. The manifolds/vales/air lines were all tight and good. The leaks were at the primary and secondary tanks, pressure regulators, air dryer, compressor governor, tag axles pressure regulator, air/water bleed off valves front and rear. Now air bag failure. These are complicated machines and it is almost getting to the point where it is just not worth the trouble. I wonder if the RV market has gone soft yet???
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