Idoc57

I would also know how find and download the air system schematic for my 2006 Cayman 37 PBD. My tanks were leaking down pretty fast. Three days ago we found two 90 degree push-in fittings on the bottom of the front air tank leaking. I replaced them with compression fittings. Also found that the air line going to the left rear air spring was pinched by the upper shock mount bolt and was leaking. Repaired that one with a compression coupling. Its definitely not leaking down as fast now, but it still empties the tanks in about 10 hours. Seems to me that it used to take almost a week to empty the air tanks when it was just sitting still. All air springs are a year old. The only thing that I can think of that I didn't check is the air line and valve to the air horns. Does anybody know where to look for that valve? Other than the front and rear air tanks, the air springs, the WABCO air pump/ filter and the air horn line, is there any thing else in the air system to check? I'm curious if any of y'alls air tanks stay above say, 60 PSI for anywhere near a week. Thanks, Carey

Mike, Thank you for a great, in-depth video about chassis maintenance. I don't have the "S" chassis or oil hubs, but so much of the information that you shared is valuable to all of us. I know that making this video took more of your time to make than it took of mine to watch it. I really appreciate you taking your time and effort to share your knowledge and great advice with the rest of us. I look forward to watching more of your videos! Carey

Ray, My grandsons and their dad designed a cover to fit the early 2000s coaches like yours. The tabs are located on the top side, so they will work on your windows. You can contact them at 2b3dprints@gmail.com Carey

Or you could just convert the fixture to LED tubes. If you just cut the offending ballast out and wire the LEDs direct to 12v, you could get rid of the feedback and have a better light fixture that uses less energy. Carey

Hi Don, Here is the email address that will get you in contact with my grandsons and my son. 2b3dprints@gmail.com They should be able to help you. Carey P.S. If you have any issues getting in touch with them, please PM me on the Monacoers forum.

Well, the problem with welding the trailing arms to make them "good as new" is that they were not "good enough" when they were new. At least, that is the consensus among owners and those who are in the know regarding this chassis. I'm pretty sure that mine (2006 Cayman 37PBD) is the RR4R chassis. By the way Adam, the Neptune is the H.R. "sistership" to the Cayman. All one has to do is Google "trailing arms" and you will find about a weeks worth of reading material about the problems associated with the original parts. John, I don't know for a fact that your 2008 Neptune has the same trailing arms, but I would be willing to bet that it does. I did not even feel comfortable getting my "new to me" coach on the road 3 years ago when I found out about the trailing arm issue. We were in the grips of COVID and it took forever for Source Engineering to have their replacement trailing arms available, but I just didn't feel that it was worth the risk, so my coach sat on the driveway for almost a year! One thing I can guarantee you is that there is NO COMPARISSON between the originals and S.E's trailing arms. The original ones weighed about 70 lbs each and S.E.'s weighed about 150 lbs each! If the whole chassis rots and turns into dust, Source Engineering's trailing arms will still be there! When I had the arms put on, I went ahead and put their Ride Kit on also. ( new air springs and custom tuned, for your chassis, Bilstein lifetime warrantee, shocks. ) No, I don't "own stock" in Source Engineering, I just think that they know what they are doing, and they build great products. Carey

I switched my motorhome insurance over to Good Sam's program earlier this year. I also canceled my State Farm coverage on my 2 vehicles and added them to the GS policy. It saved me a lot of money, and when the coach is in storage for a month or more, they only charge a minimal fee for comprehensive coverage. Liability and collision are put on hold, so you can't drive your MH during the storage period. If you need to drive it, you just call them and they take you off storage mode. I'm not sure if the storage option is available in all states, but it is in Texas. Carey

Hi Rikki and Fred, Just saw your posts. Sorry you are having some issues with your covers. I have already contacted my son about it. He is going to take care of both of you. Hopefully, he can figure out what is going on. PM me tomorrow if you would like. Carey

Hi Bill, I contacted my son and told him that you had tried to order some weep hole covers. He went back through his emails and could not find anything from you. He asked if your email address was similar to "windsorbill06". Also, please check and see if this is the exact email address that you used. 2b3dprints@gmail.com If you could send me your actual email address and the day that you tried to contact them, he will look for it again. Please send me this information in a Private Message, and I will forward it on to him. I'm sure they will be able to take care of you. Carey

Thanks to all of you guys for help and advice on my situation. I am VERY HAPPY to report that the problem is solved! What an ordeal! I am so envious of you guys that have your genny on a slide out. I first replaced the belt. Mine was very worn and there was something stuck in the groove of the water pump pulley. Not sure what it was, but I'm sure that it contributed to the belt being in bad shape. It did come out without any problem and the pulley looked fine. I hooked the fuel lines back up and tested the genny. It ran for exactly 28 minutes pulling 27-28 AMPS. I thought maybe it was fixed, then "off like a light" at 28 minutes. Darn, I new what that meant......genny had to be removed from under the coach. We used 2 floor jacks and a motorcycle jack to juggle it out and off the two steel cradles that it was bolted to. The genny came out without incident and then I removed the side and top panels. What a difference trying to work on it when it was out! The t-stat was no problem, but when we put some torque on the temp sensor it split in two ( like what Kurt Armstrong had reported ). The small end was stuck in the threaded passageway. We carefully dug out most of the corrosion and removed the end of the sensor. More cleaning of the threads and finally ran a tap though the hole. Installed the new sensor with some teflon pipe thread sealant paste. As we were getting ready to put the cabinet back together we noticed that the big, black plastic box that attaches to the intake manifold had a crack in it. This "Intake Resonator" as they call it should only have filtered air in it, so obviously it had to be replaced. I ordered a new one overnight, of course the next day was the 4th, (part # has changed to 140-4273) and a new rubber sleeve that it slides on to (#140-2898). This part was easy to install. Got the side panels and top on and juggled the genny back into its "cave". Fired it up and, after warm-up, applied about 24 amps of load. It ran like a top until I shut it down at 1 hr and 10 min. Let it cool down and drained coolant. Filled with radiator flush/cleaner and distilled water. Ran it for another hour and 20 minutes with both a/c's on (26-28 amps) and no problems. Thank you Lord! Looks like we will have a/c for our trip to Estes Park in 4 days! Carey There was a lot of great info and suggestions from all of y'all, but I had to tag MHRookie (Kurt Armstrong) with the "Solution" since his info was a dead ringer for what was wrong with my genny. Thanks, Kurt! Carey

Well, I got the fuel supply and return lines off and then I was able to slide the rear cabinet panel down and out. Has anyone ever removed the thermostat housing from one of the engines? Looking at the parts diagram, there appears to be 3 bolts that hold the housing onto the block. I can see 2 of them quite easily, however, the 3rd one is a mystery. The bolts are in a triangle formation. The bottom and the one on the upper right (looking at the diagram) are the ones that I can see. It seems like the upper left bolt might go through the water pump and then the housing. That seems unusual to me. Has anyone ever worked on one of these and remember seeing how this housing is mounted? Thanks, Carey

Ivan, I think you are right. No more pressure than there would be, some teflon tape on the threads would probably work just fine. Carey Bob, I'm going to try to get the fuel lines disconnected shortly. Maybe I can just raise the lines up high enough to let the fuel drain back into the tank and wrap a baggie around the ends to keep them clean like Ivan did. I'll keep the possibility of taking the lines off the top of the tank in mind as a back-up plan. Thanks, Carey

That is exactly what I was thinking. I agree that the water pump should not be that hard to turn; however, my belt definitely feels like it has too much slack in it, which could cause it not to be turning the water pump as efficiently as it should. With the hotter temps right now, more usage of the A/C, worn belt slips and wears even more and faster. So, could be "the waste paper basket effect" at work. One thing is for sure, when I get in there, I'm replacing the belt, thermostat and sending unit. I'm ordering another thermostat housing and gasket just in case I screw up the old one getting the sensor out. In fact, I think it will be easier to remove the t-stat housing and be able to replace the t-stat and sensor with the whole unit off the engine. The t-stat gasket surface faces up and I can't see from the top, so cleaning the old gasket off (if necessary) would be tough and I would likely get junk down in the cooling passage. The sensor would be much easier to get to and if I can't get it out, I'll just toss the old housing and "stuck" sensor in the trash. I could assemble the t-stat and the new sensor into the new housing and then just bolt the assembly back onto the front of the engine. That gasket surface is vertical and faces the back of the coach. So, easier to clean and much less chance of getting junk in the hole. I'll be "going down under" shortly.........and I don't mean to Australia! 😁 Carey

NPT =National Pipe Thread Thanks for jogging my feeble brain, Ivan. I will need plugs, not caps. Carey

Ray, are you saying that your genny was over-heating and shutting down just because of the belt? Was it just worn or broken? Thanks, Carey