weighman695

Hello, There is a slow leak on my Shorelines Hose Reel CW40D. Attached are pictures of the location of the leak. Anybody had this problem before? How did you resolve the leak problem. Do I need to replace the brass fitting that is identified by a red arrow in the attached picture? If so, how? Where did you buy the required parts to be replaced? Do I need to remove the wet bay front panel to access the hose reel to replace the parts? I can reach the hose reel from the pump room but it is really tight. Any help on what direction I should be looking at is highly appreciated. Thanks you....

Bruce, who is "they"?. Is it Josams

Thank you for the info... Thank you for the info....

Tom, About 4 months ago, I had a problem of losing air in a day or two on my air bags and the front will lean down. I have the Power Gear leveling system. I think it is partnered with Valid. Since the rig is 15 year old rig and the air bags are all peeling off at its bottom side, I replaced all 8 airbags using one of the truck service company. The air issue was not resolved. In two days, the air pressure gauge will show 65 psi from 115 psi. Do you know of a knowlegable and good company to resolve my issue. I am based here in Ventura California. What is the name and contact info of the chassis shop in Elkhart? Or should I bring my rig to Josams? Thanks for your help.

What color is this coolant/antifreeze? Thanks.

I have an onan Quiet Diesel 8000 generator and just bought the rig last year. My current engine and diesel coolants looks like greenish yellow. What is the brand and part number (or whatever you call it) do you use as your coolant? Manual says antifreeze of coolant must meet ethylene glycol or propylene glycol but no suggested brand and part number.

Paul, I have a similar noise problem on my Remco Aquajet 55 5.3 gpm 12 vd water pump. Let us know if the noise issue goes away after replacing your pump. Thanks...

Barry, I have the same issue. Please take a picture on how the snap covrrsover phillips head screw looks like. I am concerned that I may damage the panel. Thanks.

Bob, Yes, I did depressed and held the battery boost switch for about 2 minutes and started the engine while the switched are pressed and held. No go. That's when I started reaching out to the group. I ended up replacing the Trombetta solenoid and the two Interstate 31-MHD batteries. My voltage reading now on both solenoid lugs are the same compared to the old solenoid which read two different voltages. Now I think all is good. We'll see on my next trip.

As I have posted above, I replaced the Trombetta (solenoid) with a silver alloy contacts and the two 31-MHD batteries. I left Las Vegas this morning and traveled south. Everything went smooth until I reached my destination (about 155 miles of travel). As I reached my destination and trying to find parking spot, the ALT. CHARGE on my dashboard began beeping and flashing. According to my manual, ALT. CHARGE means failure within the alternator charging system. After about 3 minutes of beeping and before I turned off the engine, the beeping and flahing went away. I remove the trombetta and the two batteries and replaced them exactly how I removed them (same terminals). What do I need to look at in order to resolve the issue? I am leaving early in the morning tomorrow for another 175 miles of travel. What do I do if this issue repeats again? Can I just ignore it until I reach my destination? If I ignore it, will it damage more parts or system? HELP...... Thanks to everyone. I think I found what the culprit is. I am now safely back at home. Yesterday morning before I left my stop, I checked all the battery connections of the new chassis batteries. Sure enough, one of the nuts are not properly tightened. That could be causing the Alt. Charge to flash and beep. After tightening and travelling about 175 miles to home, the beeping and flashing was gone. Never showed up again. I will test all voltages again to make sure the batteries are being charged when engine is running, when generator is running and when engine and generstor are both running.Thank you for all your help....

As I have posted above, I replaced the Trombetta (solenoid) with a silver alloy contacts and the two 31-MHD batteries. I left Las Vegas this morning and traveled south. Everything went smooth until I reached my destination (about 155 miles of travel). As I reached my destination and trying to find parking spot, the ALT. CHARGE on my dashboard began beeping and flashing. According to my manual, ALT. CHARGE means failure within the alternator charging system. After about 3 minutes of beeping and before I turned off the engine, the beeping and flahing went away. I remove the trombetta and the two batteries and replaced them exactly how I removed them (same terminals). What do I need to look at in order to resolve the issue? I am leaving early in the morning tomorrow for another 175 miles of travel. What do I do if this issue repeats again? Can I just ignore it until I reach my destination? If I ignore it, will it damage more parts or system? HELP......

Thank you very much everyone. Today, I just placed the order for an Amp-L-Start device and will be installing as shown on my most recent diagram. I am now confident that I know what I will be doing. Thanks to this forum.....

Also, as you can see on the rear electrical bay picture that I attached, I have a 20A solar controller. I have only 1-100watts solar panel on my rig's roof. based on the connections that you see in the picture, which batteries are being charged by the solar; house only, both house and chassis or chassis only? With this solar in the mix, will there be a problem if I install Amp-L-Start?

One more question Rick, if I decided to buy the Amp-L-Star (http://www.lslproducts.net/ALS_Overview_Page.html), is the attached picture that shows assumptions where the wires will be connected correct. If not, please let me know how. Thanks....

Got it. Thank you very much for explaining all that to me. I really appreciate it. I learn a lot from this forum and I am really grateful to everyone who took their time, knowledge and experience explaining the principle behind the issue.

Thanks Rick, "But remember, you also will have the alternator charging both when the main engine is running." Will there be a negative impact to the electrical system or batteries if both the alternator are charging when the main engine is running?

Rick, I am just exploring my options and I want to learn too. Can I also use a 120 Volts Schumacher 1.5 amp float charger which is in my storage for almost t 5 years now? I have an electrical outlet in my battery compartment where I can plug the float charger. I assume I have to connect the positive lead to the positive lug and the negative lead to the negative lug of the house batteries. Do I need to unplug the float charger when I am going to travel and when the generator will be turned on? Or, can I just install and forget? Newbie who would like to learn here. Thanks...

Thank you so much Rick. Will I benefit more on this product http://www.lslproducts.net/ALS_Overview_Page.html instead of this product http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html? Or is it overkill. Again, I really appreciate your help.

Thank you Rick, I am leaning on buying one of this : http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html. Do you think this will resolve my issue? It looks like it is a $55.00 plus tax fix. If I decide to buy one of this, will it affect any of the current charging operation of the coach?

Update: I brought the two interstate chassis batteries (31-MHD) to Interstate Batteries of Las Vegas. The batteries are discharged. Prior to bringing the batteries to Interstate, I tested the batteries using TOPDON ArtiBattery 101 12V battery tester. Results showed REPLACE. So, I bought two (2) new Interstate batteries 31-MHD date codes 12/21. Also, the Trombetta 114-1211-020 (Silver Alloy Contacts) arrived today. I install the two new batteries and replace the existing trombetta solenoid with new the new Trombetta 114-1211-020 (Silver Alloy Contacts). Here are the following measurements: Prior to installation and measured at battery terminals: both 12.72 Volts After installation with solenoid activated (by pressing and holding battery boost switch on the dashboard): Measured at top left lug of the trombetta (solenoid) : 13.51 Volts Measured at top right lug of the trombetta (solenoid) : 13.51 Volts Measured at bottom lug of the solenoid (positive lead on small lug where purple wire and negative lead where white wire) : 11.50 Volts Measured chassis battery with both batteries on parallel (house and chassis battery disconnects on; solenoid NOT activated) : 12.72 Volts Measured house battery@4-6V Trojan battery series parallel (house and chassis battery disconnects on; solenoid NOT activated) : 13.60 Volts Now folks, what does this data indicates? Am I charging the chassis batteries now? If not, what else I can do or test. Let me know. Thanks....

Thanks Amphi_sc, Exactly what I am getting!!! (Chassis not charging on shore power & house not charging from alternator & battery boost not helping start engine as chassis parasitic loads drag them down. When it clicks to engage the voltages are not the same on both sides of the big lugs). I just measured this morning the voltages at the big lugs when the solenoid is engaged and I am getting 13.74 Volts on house terminal and 12.33 Volts on Chassis terminal. New Trombetta solenoid is coming in tomorrow and will replace the existing on Saturday. Hopefully it will fix the problem. BTW, how did you take apart and cleaned the old solenoid? Mine is Trombetta 114-1211-010 (copper contacts) being replaced with Trombetta 114-1211-020 (silver alloy contacts).

Will do. Thanks...

Here the newbie go again. When you said "with the wires safely removed, do you mean all the wires connected to the solenoid or just the purple and white wires only together with the diode? Should I switch the battery disconnect to OFF position before removing all the wires? I assume that I will put the positive lead to where the purple wire used to be and the negative lead where the white wire used to be; is that a correct assumption? Also, in taking the resistance measurement, which Ohms setting the multimeter dial should be; 2000K, 200k, 20k, 2000 or 200? As I said, I am new to this so please bear with me. Thanks.... Frank, As I mentioned above, the battery voltage was measured 11.75 Volts and can't start the engine. The chassis batteries was jump started using the house batteries. After 40 minutes of idling and after turning off the engine, the batteries are measured to be 12.57 Volts. The batteries were disconnected using battery disconnect switch. Next morning, the batteries are measured to be 12.20 Volts (again, measured when the engine was off). I did not get above 13 Volts measurement with the engine OFF. Does that mean the shore power is not charging the chassis batteries?

I have just asked my DW to press and hold the battery boost while I am listening to the sound of the solenoid. I heard one click when my wife pressed and held the switch by approximately 5 seconds. I also noticed that the solenoid was warm to the touch when the batteries are connected to the coach. But when I disconnected the batteries using the battery disconnect, the solenoid feels cold. What does that one click indicates?

Thank you Brad. I will try that tomorrow. I am learning a lot from this forum. Another newbie question. How do I know if the shore power is charging (or not) my chassis batteries? What do I have to look out? Use of multimeter for example? How? Thanks...