ok-rver

My Scepter 2004 had a two contact pad on the coach hinged side of the door and probes in the door that made the connection. You might use a multimeter on the coach contacts and see if you are getting 12vdc when the keypad is activated for lock and unlock. I believe that the voltage is reversed between lock and unlock.

Motor home has sold at asking price

2004 Holiday Rambler Scepter 40 ft Class A diesel Pusher Motor Home 57k miles, very clean inside and out, 8.3 liter Cummins ISC Turbo 6 cyl 350 HP NO DEF, Allison 6 speed, Roadmaster RR8S chassis, 8 air bag suspension, side radiator (great maintenance access), 4 hyd jack manual leveling, front and rear ducted AC, snap on solar screens for windshield and front side windows, dual propane furnaces, propane/electric water heater. 4 slide, queen rear bed room, Cherry wood panels, tile floor, convection/microwave oven, two burner propane stove top, Norcold 4 door refrigerator/freezer with ARP Defend safety system. Non smoker owner - No pets— glass shower, original leather jack knife sofa, replacement leather pull out sofa to double bed (sleeps 5 or 6), table and 4 chair dinette, flat screen TVs front & rear, updated OTA antenna, Onan 7.5kw generator with ~300 hours on roll out slide at front. Electric cable reel for shore power. High and low pressure propane ports. Weber Q small propane grill off low pressure port. Inverter and qty 4-6 volt lead acid house batteries. Blue Sea ACR charge relay. Water storage bay 12v heater. Dedicated monitor for Cumin ECM/Aladdin system. Rear view camera. Front tires 4 year old date code. Rear tires new when purchased 2 years ago. We have driven coach 16k miles. Located in Tulsa OK area. FASS auxiliary fuel pump/filters. TRW steering box, Monaco Watts rear X-braces & front Watts linkage for improved handling. Option for additional purchase- 2011 Honda CRV AWD as toad, 135k miles plus 10k towed. Blue Ox tow bar, base plate, electric brake module. Motorhome $59,500

Broke off the Joystick at my dash. Swapped rear to front. Looking for a take off that someone no longer needs.

Aladdin tank sensors have stopped working. Looking for used but working SeeLevel II 3 tank monitor board that someone maybe removed to replace with bluetooth compatible board. Will buy new tank sensors.

This is an old post and the OP has a solution. For those using this for research, a Blue Sea ACR to replace the combining relay is generally considered one of the best options. The existing relay on my 2004 was not a latching relay. Current must flow thru the coil to pull the relay in and my dash switch was a momentary on so it had to be held on to combine. Lots of current would flow thru the relay coil and it can get pretty hot. The Blue Sea ACR auto charging relay, has circuitry that monitors both sides of the really for voltage. if one is at charging voltage, it will combine the two when in auto. Chassis combined to house when engine running, house combined to chassis when shore power inverter charging. when it auto mode, it drops out if both are at resting voltage. factory provided switch has three positions: do not close relay, auto mode, and close relay. I use "do not close" during generator and main engine running, other wise I get a charging error on the dash. I use the combine if wanting to boost chassis from house. most of the time it is on auto. used it for over a year and 10k miles and would not have a coach/boat without the BS ACR or something very similar. many others here have stated the same thing. under $100, installation is simple. pull the two cables and the coil wire that comes from dash switch, two screws to remove old relay, maybe drill new holes for the ACR, screws, reconnect the cables and wire. this will give you the ability to manually pull in the coil or it will work in auto. Requires a second wire to install the factory switch for full function. I ran the first six months or so with out full function and then ran a 4 wire bundle from front Elec compartment to rear battery compartment and installed the factory switch. I equalize my house batteries after I have added water and use the "do not combine" to isolate house at 15 vdc from maintenance free starting batteries. The other advantage of the combiner is that when running the main engine and there is a need from the inverter, the 200 amp alternator will supply maybe 100 amps into the house batteries thru the ACR.

Does your Aladdin data go thru your back up camera monitor? My backup camera system has been changed out to a color Weldex that I have been told is not original. Not sure how previous owner viewed data. Dealer we bought from set up Aladdin system to go thru rear TV to see data as that replacement flat screen TV had RCA inputs. Wondering why you have no back up camera as that is "usually" a separate system. Do you get any display or color change when the monitor is powered up? I added a Amazon $35 5" diagonal monitor as a dedicated display to my Aladdin system. It has been a great addition. After about 5,000 miles on system, monitor was on (lighted blue screen with logo of monitor) but no input from Aladdin. My Aladdin control module is behind my radio. Pulled radio and reseated all of the connector on the system. It started working again. It may have reset if power was disconnected but I think power is hard wired into the module. While on current trip, monitor went black, no power at monitor. Fuse was good. Turns out the round pin connector to the monitor had come loose. Good luck in your trouble shooting

Fuel gage on ours started acting up a couple of months after we purchased it. Went thru the checking process on the Centroid and sending Centroid numbers. After the second pulling wires off terminals, started working again and seemed to be pretty reliable. 15,000 miles later, 2,000 miles into our current 4,200 trip, gage started swinging wildly or moving way past the full mark. Tapping the gage seems to get is back to reading correctly for a while. It seems to be an issue with the gage not the sending unit. Will have to loosen dash panel at some time to get to the gage.

Currently at Cherry Hill Park in DC area. Great park. Will be leaving June 9th using I-83 to get around NYC area. From Cherry Hill, 29 gets me to I-70, then to I-695 going around Baltimore. Morning traffic showing red and yellow for the 7 mile section between I-70 and I-83 on I-695. Anyone have an alternate for heading to York on I-83? From York, looking at 30 to 222 to 22 to 209 to I-84 to I-290 to I-495 (around Boston) connecting back to I-95 on to Maine. the state highways appear to be mostly 4 lane limited access. There are some sections of good 2 lane. Preference is to run on non-interstate when possible as 55 to 60 is our normal cruise speed. Thanks for your thoughts

A lot of good info above. some one mentioned the chassis and house switches. The connection from your battery to the starter SHOULD NOT GO THRU the chassis switch. while a good blue sea switch is rated for 1,000 amps or so, my 8.3 Cummins recommends a CCA of 1,200 for reliable starting. my starter cable comes off the chassis battery bank and goes directly to the starter. Check the voltage at the big lug on your starter. I would second using a jumper from the big starter cable to the starter solenoid wire post. I carry 2 ft long wires with alligator clips for that type of testing. Measuring voltage at both the solenoid wire and starter cable lug while trying to start could help with trouble shooting. As the current has to get back to the battery, all ground cables should also be checked. If your battery voltage stays at 12 volts (measuring at the clamp, not the post) when the dash voltmeter is showing 8, resistance in the circuit somewhere is causing a big voltage drop. dash voltmeter is not measuring at the battery. it is probably measuring in a distribution panel. my Scepter panel is on the driver side in front of the front wheel. yours seems to be somewhere else. testing voltage in the panel while some one turns the key might let you locate the general area of high resistance. PM me for a phone number if you want to talk directly.

looked up ICV and a picture shows that it is the connector I am looking for. the end going to the ECM away from the ICV has a 4 pin square connector. two of those wires appear to go to the ICV. The other two wires go about 3" to a two pin connector. This connector on my motor home is not connected to anything. I am looking for a wiring diagram to determine the function of this pair of wires and if they should be connected.

that's probably one on the connectors. located under the pump. not the accumulator connector on top

I have access to the Cummins Quickserve site and have reviewed the diagram 3666267-03 they have available. I did not see any wiring/connections to the CAPS system. Wondering if any one has a diagram that would show any of the 4 pin connectors used on the pump. 2004 8.3 ISC

In previous post I had only tested the snap ring holding the turbo housing in place up to a brake loaded 20 psi. I was able to drive 30ish miles with a lot of full power loading and there has been no movement of the turbo housing.

Finally got around to tackling this issue. I will state this now and again later on. I DO NOT recommend any one do this. I was very difficult, taking 3 or 4 attempts at getting a tool that would re-install the snap ring that hold the housing to the bearing assembly. My snap ring has small tabs on each end. I was able to get the snap ring out of the groove with channel locks. One of the tabs was originally up against the oil drain boss and appeared to be bent towards the other tab slightly. The outer housing of my turbo was turned 20 plus degrees away from the cooler, stretching the hose over an inch. The tab may have bent as the housing rotated and it hit the drain boss or was just that way from the factory. I had not planned on completely removing the snap ring from the bore. With the ring not in the groove, the housing rotated very easy and I positioned it so the hose was 12-1/2" long. When I went to put the snap ring back in the grove, it did not snap in opposite the opening. While playing with the snap ring, It popped out of the housing. As the tab was bent, pliers would not hold as I compressed. Borrowed a pair of very big snap ring pliers and not enough room to get into the area. ground down the tips of a 13" pair of 90 deg needle nose pliers but could not squeeze the handles together. the snap ring is 1/2" wide in places and pretty strong. ended up using sheet metal welding vice grips, drilling a hole in each of the arms for 1/8" drill rod. used a 6-1/2" hose clamp to squeeze the snap ring small enough that I could then insert the pins and then try to squeeze small enough. Pins slipped out 50 or more times. Last night I tapped the pin holes #8-32 and bought 3/4" long Grade 5 socket head bolts at Lowe's. Had to chuck the bolt heads in a drill and file the thread major diameter down a bit to get into the holes of the snap ring. threads gave it very good bit into the snap ring. Second try today, I had the snap ring in place. In doing research on this, I found a couple of good videos on re-installing the snap ring while on the bench. One suggested using pliers to squeeze(radially) the ring fully in it's groove. the other used a punch on each tab to push the snap ring. I did both. the gap between the two tabs on the end of the snap ring finally stabilized about 3/4" wider than when the snap ring first went in the groove. The ring is tapered and is wedging the inner and outer housing together. My guess is that when my turbo was apart at some time, the snap ring was not fully wedged in place. Housing moved and stretched the hose. I started up the engine and warmed it up as much as you can idling. In drive, I was able to step thru 10, 15, 20 psi boost while in drive against the brakes. No movement of the turbo housing. Maybe over the weekend I will be able to get it out and drive it. AG Diesel sent me a revised engine module that "is suppose to work" and I will be able to get to 25-26 psi of boost. That's about 320 pounds pushing against the turbo housing. This was a true pain laying on my back reaching up into a very small space. I have 4 afternoons involved in getting this apart and back together. I think I would pull the turbo and do it on the bench if I have to do it again, except now I have a tool that makes it a little easier. Having the turbo off would make drilling for a EGT probe much easier. This started because my hose was stretched about 1-1/2". I could not find a hose long enough to replace the separated tube ends. It turns out the 90 deg elbow on the turbo housing is easy to remove via a V-clamp. I could have removed the elbow and "easily" slide a hose, metal tube, hose assembly made up to the needed length on the the CAC tube, then into the turbo nozzle and the reconnected the 90 deg elbow to the turbo. May my struggles give you chuckles and ideas.