ok-rver

My Scepter 2004 had a two contact pad on the coach hinged side of the door and probes in the door that made the connection. You might use a multimeter on the coach contacts and see if you are getting 12vdc when the keypad is activated for lock and unlock. I believe that the voltage is reversed between lock and unlock.

Motor home has sold at asking price

2004 Holiday Rambler Scepter 40 ft Class A diesel Pusher Motor Home 57k miles, very clean inside and out, 8.3 liter Cummins ISC Turbo 6 cyl 350 HP NO DEF, Allison 6 speed, Roadmaster RR8S chassis, 8 air bag suspension, side radiator (great maintenance access), 4 hyd jack manual leveling, front and rear ducted AC, snap on solar screens for windshield and front side windows, dual propane furnaces, propane/electric water heater. 4 slide, queen rear bed room, Cherry wood panels, tile floor, convection/microwave oven, two burner propane stove top, Norcold 4 door refrigerator/freezer with ARP Defend safety system. Non smoker owner - No pets— glass shower, original leather jack knife sofa, replacement leather pull out sofa to double bed (sleeps 5 or 6), table and 4 chair dinette, flat screen TVs front & rear, updated OTA antenna, Onan 7.5kw generator with ~300 hours on roll out slide at front. Electric cable reel for shore power. High and low pressure propane ports. Weber Q small propane grill off low pressure port. Inverter and qty 4-6 volt lead acid house batteries. Blue Sea ACR charge relay. Water storage bay 12v heater. Dedicated monitor for Cumin ECM/Aladdin system. Rear view camera. Front tires 4 year old date code. Rear tires new when purchased 2 years ago. We have driven coach 16k miles. Located in Tulsa OK area. FASS auxiliary fuel pump/filters. TRW steering box, Monaco Watts rear X-braces & front Watts linkage for improved handling. Option for additional purchase- 2011 Honda CRV AWD as toad, 135k miles plus 10k towed. Blue Ox tow bar, base plate, electric brake module. Motorhome $59,500

Broke off the Joystick at my dash. Swapped rear to front. Looking for a take off that someone no longer needs.

Aladdin tank sensors have stopped working. Looking for used but working SeeLevel II 3 tank monitor board that someone maybe removed to replace with bluetooth compatible board. Will buy new tank sensors.

This is an old post and the OP has a solution. For those using this for research, a Blue Sea ACR to replace the combining relay is generally considered one of the best options. The existing relay on my 2004 was not a latching relay. Current must flow thru the coil to pull the relay in and my dash switch was a momentary on so it had to be held on to combine. Lots of current would flow thru the relay coil and it can get pretty hot. The Blue Sea ACR auto charging relay, has circuitry that monitors both sides of the really for voltage. if one is at charging voltage, it will combine the two when in auto. Chassis combined to house when engine running, house combined to chassis when shore power inverter charging. when it auto mode, it drops out if both are at resting voltage. factory provided switch has three positions: do not close relay, auto mode, and close relay. I use "do not close" during generator and main engine running, other wise I get a charging error on the dash. I use the combine if wanting to boost chassis from house. most of the time it is on auto. used it for over a year and 10k miles and would not have a coach/boat without the BS ACR or something very similar. many others here have stated the same thing. under $100, installation is simple. pull the two cables and the coil wire that comes from dash switch, two screws to remove old relay, maybe drill new holes for the ACR, screws, reconnect the cables and wire. this will give you the ability to manually pull in the coil or it will work in auto. Requires a second wire to install the factory switch for full function. I ran the first six months or so with out full function and then ran a 4 wire bundle from front Elec compartment to rear battery compartment and installed the factory switch. I equalize my house batteries after I have added water and use the "do not combine" to isolate house at 15 vdc from maintenance free starting batteries. The other advantage of the combiner is that when running the main engine and there is a need from the inverter, the 200 amp alternator will supply maybe 100 amps into the house batteries thru the ACR.

Does your Aladdin data go thru your back up camera monitor? My backup camera system has been changed out to a color Weldex that I have been told is not original. Not sure how previous owner viewed data. Dealer we bought from set up Aladdin system to go thru rear TV to see data as that replacement flat screen TV had RCA inputs. Wondering why you have no back up camera as that is "usually" a separate system. Do you get any display or color change when the monitor is powered up? I added a Amazon $35 5" diagonal monitor as a dedicated display to my Aladdin system. It has been a great addition. After about 5,000 miles on system, monitor was on (lighted blue screen with logo of monitor) but no input from Aladdin. My Aladdin control module is behind my radio. Pulled radio and reseated all of the connector on the system. It started working again. It may have reset if power was disconnected but I think power is hard wired into the module. While on current trip, monitor went black, no power at monitor. Fuse was good. Turns out the round pin connector to the monitor had come loose. Good luck in your trouble shooting

Fuel gage on ours started acting up a couple of months after we purchased it. Went thru the checking process on the Centroid and sending Centroid numbers. After the second pulling wires off terminals, started working again and seemed to be pretty reliable. 15,000 miles later, 2,000 miles into our current 4,200 trip, gage started swinging wildly or moving way past the full mark. Tapping the gage seems to get is back to reading correctly for a while. It seems to be an issue with the gage not the sending unit. Will have to loosen dash panel at some time to get to the gage.

Currently at Cherry Hill Park in DC area. Great park. Will be leaving June 9th using I-83 to get around NYC area. From Cherry Hill, 29 gets me to I-70, then to I-695 going around Baltimore. Morning traffic showing red and yellow for the 7 mile section between I-70 and I-83 on I-695. Anyone have an alternate for heading to York on I-83? From York, looking at 30 to 222 to 22 to 209 to I-84 to I-290 to I-495 (around Boston) connecting back to I-95 on to Maine. the state highways appear to be mostly 4 lane limited access. There are some sections of good 2 lane. Preference is to run on non-interstate when possible as 55 to 60 is our normal cruise speed. Thanks for your thoughts

A lot of good info above. some one mentioned the chassis and house switches. The connection from your battery to the starter SHOULD NOT GO THRU the chassis switch. while a good blue sea switch is rated for 1,000 amps or so, my 8.3 Cummins recommends a CCA of 1,200 for reliable starting. my starter cable comes off the chassis battery bank and goes directly to the starter. Check the voltage at the big lug on your starter. I would second using a jumper from the big starter cable to the starter solenoid wire post. I carry 2 ft long wires with alligator clips for that type of testing. Measuring voltage at both the solenoid wire and starter cable lug while trying to start could help with trouble shooting. As the current has to get back to the battery, all ground cables should also be checked. If your battery voltage stays at 12 volts (measuring at the clamp, not the post) when the dash voltmeter is showing 8, resistance in the circuit somewhere is causing a big voltage drop. dash voltmeter is not measuring at the battery. it is probably measuring in a distribution panel. my Scepter panel is on the driver side in front of the front wheel. yours seems to be somewhere else. testing voltage in the panel while some one turns the key might let you locate the general area of high resistance. PM me for a phone number if you want to talk directly.

looked up ICV and a picture shows that it is the connector I am looking for. the end going to the ECM away from the ICV has a 4 pin square connector. two of those wires appear to go to the ICV. The other two wires go about 3" to a two pin connector. This connector on my motor home is not connected to anything. I am looking for a wiring diagram to determine the function of this pair of wires and if they should be connected.

that's probably one on the connectors. located under the pump. not the accumulator connector on top

I have access to the Cummins Quickserve site and have reviewed the diagram 3666267-03 they have available. I did not see any wiring/connections to the CAPS system. Wondering if any one has a diagram that would show any of the 4 pin connectors used on the pump. 2004 8.3 ISC

In previous post I had only tested the snap ring holding the turbo housing in place up to a brake loaded 20 psi. I was able to drive 30ish miles with a lot of full power loading and there has been no movement of the turbo housing.

Finally got around to tackling this issue. I will state this now and again later on. I DO NOT recommend any one do this. I was very difficult, taking 3 or 4 attempts at getting a tool that would re-install the snap ring that hold the housing to the bearing assembly. My snap ring has small tabs on each end. I was able to get the snap ring out of the groove with channel locks. One of the tabs was originally up against the oil drain boss and appeared to be bent towards the other tab slightly. The outer housing of my turbo was turned 20 plus degrees away from the cooler, stretching the hose over an inch. The tab may have bent as the housing rotated and it hit the drain boss or was just that way from the factory. I had not planned on completely removing the snap ring from the bore. With the ring not in the groove, the housing rotated very easy and I positioned it so the hose was 12-1/2" long. When I went to put the snap ring back in the grove, it did not snap in opposite the opening. While playing with the snap ring, It popped out of the housing. As the tab was bent, pliers would not hold as I compressed. Borrowed a pair of very big snap ring pliers and not enough room to get into the area. ground down the tips of a 13" pair of 90 deg needle nose pliers but could not squeeze the handles together. the snap ring is 1/2" wide in places and pretty strong. ended up using sheet metal welding vice grips, drilling a hole in each of the arms for 1/8" drill rod. used a 6-1/2" hose clamp to squeeze the snap ring small enough that I could then insert the pins and then try to squeeze small enough. Pins slipped out 50 or more times. Last night I tapped the pin holes #8-32 and bought 3/4" long Grade 5 socket head bolts at Lowe's. Had to chuck the bolt heads in a drill and file the thread major diameter down a bit to get into the holes of the snap ring. threads gave it very good bit into the snap ring. Second try today, I had the snap ring in place. In doing research on this, I found a couple of good videos on re-installing the snap ring while on the bench. One suggested using pliers to squeeze(radially) the ring fully in it's groove. the other used a punch on each tab to push the snap ring. I did both. the gap between the two tabs on the end of the snap ring finally stabilized about 3/4" wider than when the snap ring first went in the groove. The ring is tapered and is wedging the inner and outer housing together. My guess is that when my turbo was apart at some time, the snap ring was not fully wedged in place. Housing moved and stretched the hose. I started up the engine and warmed it up as much as you can idling. In drive, I was able to step thru 10, 15, 20 psi boost while in drive against the brakes. No movement of the turbo housing. Maybe over the weekend I will be able to get it out and drive it. AG Diesel sent me a revised engine module that "is suppose to work" and I will be able to get to 25-26 psi of boost. That's about 320 pounds pushing against the turbo housing. This was a true pain laying on my back reaching up into a very small space. I have 4 afternoons involved in getting this apart and back together. I think I would pull the turbo and do it on the bench if I have to do it again, except now I have a tool that makes it a little easier. Having the turbo off would make drilling for a EGT probe much easier. This started because my hose was stretched about 1-1/2". I could not find a hose long enough to replace the separated tube ends. It turns out the 90 deg elbow on the turbo housing is easy to remove via a V-clamp. I could have removed the elbow and "easily" slide a hose, metal tube, hose assembly made up to the needed length on the the CAC tube, then into the turbo nozzle and the reconnected the 90 deg elbow to the turbo. May my struggles give you chuckles and ideas.

If you drove with oil coming out the breather tube, you were probably 50% oil/50% diesel or there about. Added over 20 quarts of diesel to the oil in 2,000 miles. 200 miles might add 10%, so a couple of quarts to the 24 quarts of oil. If running 50% diluted is going to cause damage, it probably is done. We had the oil changed about 100 miles after we purchased our 2004 8.3 Cummins, 50k miles. Drove 300 miles and oil level about 2 quarts high. Cummins ran our engine off 5 gal bucket with fluorescent die diesel. Checked injectors under valve cover first with no die and then found leak into oil at accumulator on CAPS pump. Cummins has a diesel in fuel ratio but I could not find it. If changing oil, you might go with a heavier viscosity and very carefully monitor how fast the oil level is going up. If you get 100 miles and have way two much oil, could you get another oil change or is it the middle of nowhere? I understand wanting to have a local mechanic you trust do the work. If they ever have to run fluorescent die again, it will be a lot easier to use the FASS pump with short lines from/to a bucket to supply the diesel.

We are back from our 5,000 MH mile trip from Tulsa thru Yellowstone, WA, Portland to see son, northern CA redwoods, Rogue river, Crater Lake, Zion, Bryce, Lake Powell, lower CO and back to Tulsa. The front watts and rear X-braces made the trip doable up to 8 hours per day. Even tightening up the shock mounts at top may have helped a bit with the ride. For under $2,000, Mike's handling components make driving much less stressful if you travel far and or long days.

I want to thank all for their input. As I stated b4, the coil is part of my Aladdin system. Finally got around to wiring my Blue Sea ACR dash switch and then today I swapped the coil from my positive (battery to the house switch) lead to the negative from battery to the ground point on the frame. Previously, current coming from the alternator to the ACR to the house battery was not being monitored. With the coil on the negative lead, no shore power, the engine running, inverter on and microwave heating water, the drain was 110 amps isolated house to chassis and 20 amps combined house to chassis. The alternator was making up 90 amps going to the positive lead and only pulling 20 out of the house battery, if I read all of this correct. While this may not "fix" the inverter battery state of charge, It does get the Aladdin to be giving me more accurate info.

Pulled the CD player from the MH. 2004 era. Cassette is free if you can use. The changer was also pulled out. I played a CD when we bought the MH months ago. Cassette ejected when I hit the button. I am guessing the cable goes from the over head thru the A pillar to the radio on the dash. Not interested at this time in pulling the cable out. Going to Good Will if no takers.

I installed my Blue Sea ML-ACR several months ago and have been very pleased with the resulting operation. My coach was not charging the chassis batteries while on shore power or house from the engine alternator. I had put off installing the BS supplied dash switch as just using the combine function a few times when starting in the cold was all I thought I really had to have. I installed two 3/4” PVC SCH 40 pipe runners thru the chassis crossmember holes when I did my FASS install to have a conduit for the new return hose. I pulled a heavy duty trailer 4 wire flat bundle from the Rear Run Panel into the Front Run Panel and then up to the side console. A few days ago I had the dash out to see if I could get my trans temp gage to work and the switch is right there so a new project got started. The exiting two position momentary ON switch has a CARLING VCH-01 8 style Terminal Connector Switch Base plugged into the the back. There are four female connectors plugged into the terminal base. Double wire red for existing switch illumination, internal light power from headlight switch Double wire white for ground used on above light Single violet wire on terminal 2 - power from fuse 56 in FRP (pretty sure on the fuse number) Single Violet wire on terminal 1 - switched power going to originally a Big Boy relay, now to the ACR There are a couple of different wiring diagrams for the ACR and switch. I would suggest looking very closely for the one with a note that states the upper and lower LEDs in the ACR switch are connected together and will both be on or off as that helped me understand the wiring. I used a thin flat screw driver to push in the tabs on the connectors in the terminal base and removed the four female connectors. I had a few non-insulated female spade connectors left over from another project. I then made up a new 8” long jumper with a female connect on one end, a matching male spade connector on the other end and cut the wire in half to allow both wires to go into one female connector. The female connectors on this jumper were plugged into the terminal base to attach to terminals 3 & 7 on the BS ACR wiring diagram. The wire previously connected to Terminal 2 (power from the fuse block) was attached to the male spade of this jumper to provide fused power to terminals 3 & 7. On my original switch, the wire going to the Big Boy/ACR relay was on terminal 1, I moved it to terminal 2 of the connector base. This is connected from the switch to the ACR relay. A female connector was added to the new yellow wire and plugged into terminal 7. The original ground white wire that was on terminal 7 was moved to terminal 1. When in the DO NOT COMBINE position of the switch, it grounds the ACR to keep the relay from pulling in and combining the battery banks. I originally thought this was going to have to be a new wire. The original red connector/headlight switched light power is not required for the BS ACR switch so I slide heat shrink over it. Heat shrink also insulated the violet wire power going to the jumper. Not counting the jumper as a “pulled wire”, the only new pulled wire was the yellow from the ACR up to the new dash switch. I thought I had taken a picture with the jumper wire between 3 & 8 in place. I could not find it. In the picture of the switch with the wires attached, the connectors are slide on the actual terminals of the BS ACR switch, not in the terminal base. The red alligator clip wire is jumping power from term 3 up to term 8. The bottom violet wire with electrical tape wrapped around it is the power wire from the fuse block. The other picture shows how the little tab had to be flattened against the connector (red wire) so it could be pulled out the back of the terminal base. White wire connector is were I pushed the tab back out so it would lock in. The connector seem to be available on Amazon, Baomain 1/4 inch (6.3mm) Female Spade Quick Splice Crimp Terminals, (link was really long). I may order a package, would never use 100 but for $7 they would be handy to have. I ohmed the switch in its three positions b4 connecting wires. In the combined, rocked up position, terminals 3 & 2 are connected, sending power to the ACR from terminal 1 thru terminal 2. In the center position, both sides of the switch are open. When rocked to the DO NOT CONNECT position, terminal 2 is connected to terminal 1 which takes the relay to ground. The other observation is that terminal 7, the new yellow wire is grounding the LEDs within the switch. Any time the ACR is connecting the two battery banks, the yellow wire must be going to ground to illuminate the LEDs. Charging house bank on shore power with the ACR combined has the LEDs in the switch on. Half way thru this project, I was not understanding what was going on. I almost just returned the switch back to the original state and lived with only the momentary switch. As I stated earlier that learning the top and bottom LED did not give a separate status for the switch helped me to understand what was going on and finish up the wiring. I was over thinking the project. Hope this helps someone else taking this on.

I purchased the other version of the EZ drain valve. They are not very substantial. I did a quick swap from drain plug to drain valve with oil in the pan. less than a 1/2 cup into drain pan. I then used a clear hose attached on the drain valve to fill empty 5 gal jugs. Once the pan was empty, I pulled the drain valve. another 1/2 quart maybe of oil came out due to the small ID of the valve being higher than the threads of the open hole. Replaced with the original drain plug. I don't have a drain pan big enough to hold the 5 gallons. used a plastic tub lined with HD trash bag for transmission oil. It is much "cleaner" but still a pain to scope out into gallon jugs. Maybe swapping the valve in is not the best way but made it easy to carry the 5 jugs to the auto parts for recycle of oil.

no adjustment on rear, looking thru light port, there is a SS housing inside with but nothing that could be adjusted. back of housing does not come off. guessing the bezel has to be cut off. thanks for the link to the repair site. requested a quote for repair. some of the truck shops list a sender for this temperature range, I may go ahead and purchase one. their gauges just don't have the same bezel and face.

I have seen the brand of gauges used on HRs in the early 2000's either here or on IRV2 but I can not seem to find it. My trans oil temp gauge (140-320 deg F) does not return to the 140 when testing and goes way past the 320. Temp sensor has about 3k ohms, much is more than it should. Looking for a 2" chrome bezel gauge black face, white numbers with matching 1/8" NPT sensor. Has anybody found a decent replacement? My Aladdin seems to read correctly from ambient up to the 200 deg F range when climbing steep hills.

Older thread but getting ready to do something about the stretched hose. I believe that the turbo has been installed with the outlet going to the CAC in the wrong orientation thus requiring the hose to be stretched. There is not any maintenance records of turbo work by the PO's. Will be purchasing a 12" standard hose and re-clocking the compressor housing. I am award there is clip that holds the housing in position. I am wondering if the turbo needs to be pulled and on the bench or can this be done while mounted to the exhaust manifold? Side radiator motorhome.

Not sure if Tom got you your answer. His procedure for checking the voltage drop across the Big Boy is one of the ways you test if it has pulled in. To answer your question of is it the relay or the board, either have someone push the dash switch to combine batteries or use alligator clips ( almost a must have trouble shooting item) from a battery positive to the positive side of the big boy relay coil. connecting this to the ground side of the BB coil will give you a dead short so be sure how u are connecting the jumper correctly. u should hear the internal contacts pull in and go clank. then do the test Tom talked about or measure across the relay to directly measure the voltage drop. it should be very close to zero. If this check out, then the BB is probably working correctly and it could be in the board. The voltage drop may be greater on initial pull in if there is a big difference in voltages between the batteries and the contacts are pitted as the current is high initially and the current will decrease as the voltages between the batteries get closer. V=I*R ohms law. Also check the board output voltage going to the BB relay positive coil stud. If it is 12 vdc and the relay has not pulled in or voltages are not equalizing between batteries, the BB could be bad. I purchased a Klein multimeter with clamp on current probe several years ago from home depot. It gets used at least once a week and once you learn to use it, would help get to the issues with your charging much quicker.