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MiKeMo

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  • FirstName
    Michael
  • Make
    Safari
  • Model
    Cheetah 36PDD
  • Year
    2005
  • City & State
    Newcastle, OK

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  1. My Atwood 8940iii DCLP furnace would blow, then ignite like it's supposed to, and would blow hot air for approximately 4-5 minutes when first started, depending on the outside temperature. Then, the flame would go out and blower runs for approximately 1 minute, then ignition would occur, and hot air flows for approximately 2 minutes, then flame would go out and the blower would continue to blow for another minute or so then it would ignite again. That's the way my furnace cycled. There was very little air flow from the floor registers, but good air flow from the register under the sink. This is how my furnace operated from day one of my purchase. Due to the age of the MH-(2005), I installed a new sail switch, high-limit switch, and electrode. The burner was good as new. My furnace continued to have a 'long' short cycle. I blew out the floor ducting with an air hose and only seen a little bit of sawdust. The duct work was not restricted. The register under the sink was fed from a 4” hose coming from the plenum/heat exchanger housing. I used an infrared thermometer and the air around the furnace-(area under the refrigerator)-varied from 156 degrees to 175 degrees depending on where the beam was pointing. I knew then that air was escaping from the plenum into the furnace bay area instead of being directed to the floor ducting. The air inside the furnace bay area was too hot and was causing the high limit switch to work overtime. I removed one of the 4" plates and shined a light around the heat exchanger, then on the 'back' side of the plenum and I could see light in the floor duct below the heat exchanger! This was not supposed to be so, I removed the furnace and discovered the plenum opening for the floor duct is only 10 inches x 5 inches! The problem was the OSB board the furnace was setting on had an 11 1/2-inch x 6 1/2-inch opening thus allowing hot air to escape the floor ducting into the furnace bay area. There was aluminum duct tape on the short side of the plenum, but the rear of the plenum had 1 inch gap which was 11 ½” long. I shimmed up the floor duct hole to 10" x 5" and reinstalled the furnace. Now the furnace performs as it should! The burner only shuts off when the thermostat setting has been reached. Note: I have spent hours on the forums and did not find any info regarding a 'long' short cycle problem, but it's very possible I missed it. Sorry for rambling on but wanted to add this info in hopes it helps someone looking for a ‘long’ short cycle solution.
  2. For what it's worth, I have 2 of the Dometic Reversal Valve Solenoids on order-(Part# 3310714.005) and so far they are on back order. I did find a reversal valve solenoid for a residential unit-(I think) that was the same 120 voltage as the Dometic and it looked the same except the 2 wires that come from the solenoid are 2 flat spades that plug into the solenoid instead of 'made into' the solenoid. The Brand is Ranco and the Part# is LDK-310000-070. I installed it on my Penquin and it works great! Hopefully the other solenoids will come in sometime in the future and I will use one on my front heat pump as it is 16 years old and I'd rather change it out when it's at my convenience instead of waiting until I'm using the A/C when it decides to quit and defaults into heat. Hope this will get someone out of a bind waiting on an original part.
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