Gospel

I completely sealed around the cutout, there is no doubt that it is not an air leak, there were several unsealed places but the biggest were at the bottom of the cutout. I went completely around the cutout and re foamed and taped the cutout. Seems like the cooling is not touching the fins or however the cooling is transmitted to them. I also know that the seal on the front are sealing. so what next, junk it, 1575 is a lot of money to throw away, not counting what the RV company billed me.

I had a JC Refrigeration cooling pack installed, nothing but problems., told that installer (not me) had left a air leak in rear and that was why the fridge would not cool (Mid fifty's) I personally removed the fridge and resealed the back with foam, AC mastic and and aluminum tape, put it back in same thing, freezer is a -15 to -20 f but no cooling in the fridge/ How can it be so cold in the freezer, both side and not cool in the fridge? Help, Hope this is in the right area this time.

/when mine did not work the power interrupter in the bathroom next to the sink was out, reset and it worked fine.

I have mine working as it was setup originally however i would like to get to Tom Cherry's "fix", how do it get to it. not current of finding thing on the forum. Step by step would be appreciated. A link would be nice!

Just had my wet bay heater replaced, tech shorted the two wires to the snap dics (t-stat) , told me is would automatically come on when the dics closed at 40 degrees. It's 32 today and when I activate the heater circuit on the inside control board it does not come on. The switch inside has a light that turns on, next to it is another light that to my understanding is supposed to light up when the heater come on. Idea on getting this to work would be appreciated.

MODERATOR EDIT This topic has been combined with an ongoing one. Please, per the rules, do a search prior to posting. Thanks. NOTE . If you use the search in the upper corner, use NORCOLD and select Topics. There is probably 10mor more with all the information you might need. Read the or skim and you will find about every solution as well as help there. Original post is as follows: I have a Norcold 12101M and I can smell ammonia so I assume it has a leak, It was operational a month ago on a 3 week trip. Has anyone replaced the absorption unit. I see JC Refrigeration has a replacement unit for the absorption unit for the Norcold. Has anyone replaced theirs. I have a 2008 Monaco Knight 'that it's in.

Don't have a HR, however look on the roof directly above the door. I had a open seam above the door.

I am looking for my controller for the hydraulic leveling system, have not found it as of yet, Jack are not and have not been working properly. Where o where might it be, wires from the touch pad and pump etc seem to just disappear into the coach.

As I mention earlier I am putting a Esco ATS in Saturday and aa progressive surge protector. Is there anything I should check prior to preforming the "smoke" test i.e. plugging it in to 240/50amp plug that is alive and well. My batteries are fully charged and ready to go, slow charge all week> My generator seem to be working well. Question. When the AC are running and I'm on shore power are they getting pwr thru inverter or is there a switch that supplies 120 directly to them. Thanks for the help guys.

Thank you for you input, I will be installing the Progressive surge protector and the LPT50BRD ATS as soon as I get them. Will consider your solder or not to solder comments. Your logic on tighten & tugging then retightening does work,

I just purchases a Progressive HW50 C surge protector and a ESCO LPT50BRD, I am going to solder all stranded wire before putting them on the lugs to make a better connection in the lugs.

Thanks, I Have ordered a Progressive HW50C to use with my Parallax ATS501, if the ATS does not function or can't be fixed then I will Order a ESCO LPT50BRD.

Is a IOTA the same as a ATS I'm confused. Having problems with the power input for the first time.

Plugged in my 2008 Monaco Knight a week back, think I have a ATS that has gone bad, it is a ATS 501, no previous problem. How can I test it to be sure, I was on the road when it happened, home now and have the tool, just have never trouble shot one of these. Any guidelines.

Does anyone have a electrical schematic for a 2008 Monaco Knight, plugged into a park 50 amp service and wham ever thing when south. no longer able to get anything to work , fault light on the inverter, not charging the batteries, How can I bypass the transfer switch or verify that it is the problem. A mobile mechanic came out and said he thought the problem was in the reel. It was not. I had to cut off my house batteries, run a jumper from my toad then things came alive, I could run my generator and the 12V circuits seemed fine. Going to check individually the house batteries for one being bad 18 months old

Purchased and set up a 2009 Civic Honda Sedan, manual transmission for flat towing, now I'm not sure it can be towed. It's an excellent small car and in great shape. I know what Honda has to say but I would like to hear from some that have ACTUALLY towed one.

My bedroom road side slide is cable operated, when it come in on the LHS facing the inside of the slide it has a catching sound, very loud, sound like it catching, still working fine but I know something is not right, any suggestion. Thanks

I'm assuming the black cannister is what you are referring to, does it have 3 filters in it, if so do you have the filter #'s. I just bought a 2008 M Knight and I know they did not change anything in this reservoir.

Okay I am learning about regen, I just purchased 2008 Monaco Knight in 6/21 and Just completed a 4500 mile trip with plenty flat area's for a regen. Never had a regen icon show up on instrument panel. Ist steep grade in the Big Horn NF the engine shut down with no warning. I tried a restart, it started no power and shut back down when i put it in drive, tried 2nd time same thing, 3rd time it started, put it in drive and away we went. Had a 2nd & 3rd shut down with nothing showing up on the instrument panel. All on steep grades, running on semi flat land was no problems that I could detect. I did have the Stop engine/Aftertreatment Diesel particulate filter lights come on for a split second then go back out. Never came on again and only did it once. I stopped at a small shop in Colo and had them put a computer on and code 1966 came up, They erased that code. I have a background in as diesel mechanic but it been 50 years since I worked or thought about one. Have the ECM updated to the latest software, replace the three sensor for the DPF filter and see where I'm at but after reading some of the post I'm not sure, rather not reinvent the wheel so I asking for a 1,2,3 type of approach. I talked to the local Cummins shop in Austin, not impressed with the service advisor answers. Ready to act on it.

That’s a good idea about doing a manual region I’ll have to look into it and see if that’s possible better yet maybe I can take it offThat’s a good idea about doing a manual region I’ll have to look into it and see if that’s possible better yet maybe I can take it off

I need to understand the regen function better. Exactly how it functions, repair it and how to avoid the shutdowns. It has always restarted but won't pull anything until the third time. Thank God it did start and pull, was on a two lane road in the Big Horn NP. People piling up behind.

Am going to replace all sensors, there are 3, and find out how the regeneration system function and if it's still okay. Would like to see some service info on it.

It's happened 4 time, each time climbing a pass, with no dinghy.

I did down shift, Only did this when going thru hi passes 9-12k high. The engine water never got hot. The code on the computer was 1966 which relates to the exhaust system regeneration. Their are three sensor but my understanding is that they will not shut the coach down.