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Analyte

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  • FirstName
    Kerry
  • Make
    Monaco
  • Model
    Dynasty Regent
  • Year
    2000
  • City & State
    Manchester

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  1. I don't have an answer for you, but I've been looking at a similar situation. No water in my holding tank, and the pump keeps coming on by itself. No leaks found so I pulled the fuse to avoid burning up the pump. No idea why it started doing that.
  2. Not sure about your specific model, but the back of the water heater is usually very accessible. You should have room to swap the valve without pulling it. Just gave a good sized dish or two to catch any water in the lines.
  3. You guys have a point, I do my own inspections. My tires are still young, but I do take a look at the exterior of them before each long drive. Once they hit 5 years, I'll probably have them removed and inspect myself for peace of mind. No way would I trust someone else, many tire guys will probably just want to sell you another set. I'll look for age/heat cracks or other potential damage myself.
  4. I second this, and just replace if necessary. It looking ok in 2027, keep running them and then inspect again the following years up to 7.
  5. When my inlet seal was leaking, I just went to Lowe's and bought a new valve. Swapped it out easily, just getting the wrenches back there to loosen/tighten was troublesome.
  6. Surprisingly, the bushings looked great on the motor. No doubt they have been swapped before. If I was home or close to home with all my stuff an A/C replacement might be considered more heavily, but with me out working in CA I don't want to have to pay someone to do it. The campgrounds will let me get away with swapping a motor, plus I enjoy doing things myself. Thanks for the file and the help!
  7. The Dometic part number for the AC unit itself? I was using the AO Smith number but I'll give that a shot. Thanks
  8. I've been looking at fan motors on and off today, and it seems AO Smith was bought/merged out by Century. They don't have my exact motor, F42C02A61, but according to the part # it seems to point to the ORV4540 as the replacement. The specs are close except my original motor is 3.3 amps and the 4540 is only 2.5 amps plus the original is 1/4hp whereas the replacement 4540 is 1/5hp. The mounting also appears slightly different, but probably easily modified. I'm thinking this isn't a great replacement as it's less power and amps so it will likely move less air overall even with the same 1650rpm max? I'm not finding a century with the exact spec's so I guess this 4540 is the closest replacement rather than the exact replacement. Anyone know of other options available? Thanks!
  9. Well, as luck would have it the fan quit working at all this weekend. I had read the guide and planned to take some readings, but I had it on so I could make my way up to the roof and it just quit. The wife turned it off, and I was still able to spin the motor by hand. She turned it on, and the motor just hums. I tried to help it out spinning it by hand, but it doesn't help. So armed with the AO Smith model number, I'm going to do some searching tomorrow to see what's out there to swap in.
  10. Tom, Thanks for the guide, I really appreciate it. I'll take a look at it and see about comparing measurements between my two units. I hadn't thought about a winding failure, but when I think about it that does sound plausible.
  11. The capacitors are the correct size. I had pulled the originals to see what was needed, and then bought replacements that matched up. Both new and old capacitors checked out ok, I had a guy at work check them both when the new parts were doing the same thing I did look at amps in my early diagnosis. No big swings when running so I didn't go in that direction further. The breaker has never been kicked so that also led to me to think it was trying to pull more juice that should be needed.
  12. Ok, I'm back on this again. I didn't find an issue with either the run or start capacitors as both have been swapped out with no change. All tested ok in the end so I'm comfortable that it's not a capacitor issue. The unit will try to spin up the fan, and then stop and hum. If you spin the fan manually it will take off and run no problem. Ever so often, when the unit is turned on the fan will spin up slowly and then take off on its own. Once running it will run forever if set to high without an issue other than it's a little noisy. The unit cools beautifully, and I did notice some slack in the shaft so it's slightly brushing the ducting when running. That's likely where some of the noise is coming from. The fan does spin freely when off so it doesn't appear to have a bearing dragging I'm thinking the fan motor needs replaced since that's all that's left, but I'm looking for a test to confirm. Everything online pointed to capacitors, but that didn't work out for me. Thoughts?
  13. No I haven't tried that yet. I've give it a shot as the only thing I can think of otherwise is my fan motor is trying to pull more juice than it should?)
  14. I have a 2000 Dynasty, and I've been having a weird AC issue when starting up. The issue started when I heard it humming one night so I turned the thermostat off. Later I went to troubleshoot it, and it seemed to be cycling like normal. No issue at all with the compressor as it still cools beautifully. I've found the fan works if on Low or High speed, but if it tries to start up on auto it will just hum. I swapped out both the run and start capacitors, but it's doing the same thing. The fan motor spins freely, and it's not hot when I check it. Ideas? Thanks
  15. Typically just cycling the key multiple times to get the pump to prime will purge the air. When I change mine I usually prefill the primary, even though many say not to, just to speed up the process
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