JohnC3

As memory serves, and based on my 2008 Camelot using the valid air leveling system, there is an aux compressor and ping tank( a ~ 1-2 gallon air tank used to level when the coach is parked and the engine is not running) located on the passenger side of the front axel. It has both a pressure switch (To regulate the running.of the aux 12v air compressor) and a pressure relief valve located on the ping tank for safety reasons. The aux pump shouldn't run for long, maybe 1-2 minutes max. My aux compressor was bad when I bought the rig, but my replacement runs about 40 secs per fill, but I upgraded to a slightly higher.volume compressor. There is also a drain valve to allow you to drain water from the ping tank on the bottom of the ping tank ( I believe the maint.schedule says to drain the water monthly. If water has accumulated in the tank, it is likely that the pressure relief valve (prv) has corroded, or rust from the ping tank has degraded the prv. Pressure relief.valves and pressure switches are readily available from Napa or Amazon. Usually the pressure switch (again as my memory serves) cuts on around 85-90 psi and cuts off around your normal cutoff pressure ( the dash air pressure when your air dryer cycles) mine is 115-120.psi. The PRV actuation pressure is usually higher than the.pump cutoff pressure, I believe it is usually ~140 psi. It should be lower than the safe pressure of all the components in the system. . I would agree that.your.PRV is compromised and should be replaced. Maybe your pressure switch also. Drain the ping tank of air.( the small tank by the front of the rv before any work. When I open my generator slide, I can look in from the passenger side and see.the aux compressor and maybe the pung tank. The ping.tank.on.my 28 Camelot can be reached from the front without getting under the rv. I can reach it by laying on the ground and reaching in. On my rv when I rain the ping tank, the pressure drops quickly and then hisses as the main air system drains.down. I use this as the way to depressurize the system before repairs. My rv (with leaks fixed).does not.lower when the air pressure goes to 0. There are one way valves in the system to prevent the air bags from deflating on pressure loss( but they may lower over hours/days based on air leaks on your system. Be cautious and test it before you crawl underneath. On my rv the replacement of the PRV could be done with just an arm under the rig. For the ping.tank work on an rig of unknown air integrity, I would lower the rig down as low as it will go (try to lower it evenly, you don't want to twist the frame by letting the left or right side get too much lower than the other, it can damage your windshield!) Hopes this helps.

Allan, I did install the bim 225. I am out of the country, so I only have my memory to go on so take this with a grain of salt. As I remember, the the bim 225 was designed by a former intellitec employee to enable easy upgrade to LiFePo4 house batteries. I made minimal changes to the wiring. I removed the Big Boy relay and inserted the Bim 225 in its place. Relocating all the wires from the Big boy relay to the Bim 225. As I recall, I took source wires off the BIRD as appropriate and moved them to the BIM225. I seem to remember that at least one (the sig wire?) needed to be extended to reach. I did that and routed the extended wire with the rest back to where the Big boy (now the Bim225) is mounted. If I recall there was ign, sig, gnd and the 2 heavy positive wires going to the house and chassis battery banks. The system has been trouble free since install a few years ago. One note. Unlike flooded lead acid chassis batteries, LiFePo4 batteries are current limited. They have a bms that controls charging and discharging and will disconnect the LiFePo4 battery if the current draw is too high (often 100-200amps/battery) I take this to mean that you will not be able to use your battery boost? Switch to join your battery banks if your engine batteries are too low. Starting a diesel engine can take something like 1200 amps. I had 4 280ah LiFePo4 batteries each limited to 120A output. I did not feel comfortable to try the boost switch after LiFePo4 chassis battery installation. The boost switch is hooked up(i.e. the sig wire) but I won't use it. My choice. Hope.this is useful.

Agree with Peter, I use the impact on the slide toppers to determine when to bring them in. If it's rattling too much, I bring it in on the slide or slides impacted.

I had a similar issue with two slides. Did a lot of reading. Found 3 possible causes for multi.slide failure. 1) ignition on. Slides won't work if it thinks the ignition is on. 2) some models have a bay door interlock that prevents slides from working if the bay door isn't closed. Not sure if you have this. I didn't. 3) Electric slides have a common controller. The controller has a resettable circuit breaker on the control board. My issue was that the connection was bad. I replaced the breaker with aone from NAPA and it worked fine for several months, then I gently tightened the female spade recepicals that held the resettable circuit breaker and it fixed it. You would need to look at your owners manual and find where they put the controller. Mine was UNDER the floor of the cabinet that held the washer. Not fun to remove but otherwise easy to fix. It also seemed to be temp dependant, didn't like to work in cold i.e. would work after travel, when the cabinet was hot from the engine but not in the morning when it was cold when we needed to leave. Good luck. John

Do you have a system like Intellitec that controls your lights and some other systems (a multiplex system). If so the people to talk to are M&M electronics. They helped us when our multiplex control board went bad. Search on the bord for M&M electronics. John @JohnC3 Moderator EDIT. For clarification and to prevent further confusion or misinformation, there are two Intellitec MPX (Multiplex) systems. Neither was used prior to 2006. The 2006 Dynasty has the “full fledged” MPX system with a CPU (central processing unit) or “computer”. Functions that required “logic” such as certain conditions or switches being closed, required this level of logic. This is the most complex one. Your Camelot has a hybrid or low end MPX. It does not have a CPU, but a “small clock”. The IPX regulates or allows the various switches or functions on your lighted keypads to work. There is a variety of output modules that switch or control many circuits. The hybrid system in the Camelot/Scepter has 3. The 2006 Dynasy has at least 5 plus some other Intellitec components. END of EDIT

Glad to hear that. I replaced mind about 2 years ago and got hold of a airbag brand cross-reference. There were 6 brands and 5 were out of stock or discontinued. I believe the place I got mine was layman bros in PA if I recall correctly. They were 125 each.

Don't forget the suspension airbags. Replacements may require some looking to find. John

Sorry, read too fast on the phone and missed the prior replacement. I DON'T know your rig so take this with a helping of salt. What occurred to me when I reread your post was the following: Turned off Bedroom breaker: Odd, but Probably running off the inverter. See if you can find something around the bedroom that this breaker controls. revisit when you get the electrical diagram. Turned off Breaker to Inverter: Hmm, on my 08 Camelot the power went from the panel to the inverter then to 2 circuits ((1)Microwave and kitchen outlets and (2) Other bedroom outlets(But in mine not all, just the outlets near the tv)) If you cut shore power to the inverter, I would expect it to try and draw power from the batteries to power microwave and inverter powered outlets. Was the inverter ON (at the esm) at this time when you cut the inverter CB? Turned off Inverter at ESM Panel: What type of inverter Magnum ME2000? I seem to remember that this will "Pass-through" AC Power from the post (or Genny?) so Off may not mean no power flow (you may just be stopping any inverting, but since you have shore power the outlets still work), so this May not be a clue, just normal operation. A tripping GFI as I recall means that the power going out and coming back to Neutral are not equal. Some power is going somewhere else. This seems to point to a seemingly minor short (really a power leak) in something powered by the circuit (or the wires connecting them). I would: 1) ID every receptacle that is dead when you cut the inverter CB. 2) Unplug items from each of these outlets (one by one) and wait for the GFI to trip. (Start with the microwave so you don't forget it.) and on my rig some of the kitchen outlets were on the microwave circuit so don't forget them. If you find something that when unplugged makes the tripping stop, don't plug it back in :-), If not, proceeding further will require you to know the circuit pathways and be comfortable with working with wiring (i.e. may be time for an electrician). But the procedure is to disconnect the downstream load starting from the furthest outlet and working back until the problem stops. This will give you an idea of where the leakage is happening (Could be outlet or wires between outlets), but it keeps you from having to check everything. There may be a better way to do this (especially if you have a VOM meter and more experience than me) but This should give you some more information that may help. If you get to the point that you are looking at outlets & wires. Don't overlook the possibility of a mouse gnawing on a wire (look for evidence you have a little hitchhiker.) Hope this helps, John Sorry, I was doing a couple other things and got excited to help and didn't read closely enough. Thanks for keeping me straight! John

Happened to me earlier this year. Tripped about 5 times. Reset it and 5- 4 hours later it tripped again. On advice from Tom C I replaced the GFCI. Fixed the problem. Sometimes they get weak over time. You are kind of throwing a part at it, but they do fail. Think of it as a $20 test that will likely solve your problem. John

I agree with Tom but instead of eternabond remover, I found that gas (and even better gas with 2 cycle oil added) worked wonderfully. A YouTuber ( think it was RV with Tito DIY) did a video on removing eternabond and found gas the best) one time I ran out and had to borrow a cup from the RV park. All they had was gas with 2 cycle oil added) tried it and it worked even better than gas) I have an aluminum top on the slide. Use needle nose to start pulling the plastic membrane up. Then if the eternabond is warm ( I did it April in az) you can use a scraper to help the tarry layer come up. When you get it right you can pull the plastic layer and scrape the tarry underlayer with either a razor scraper or a putty knife scraper ( can't remember which worked better) so both mostly come up. Clean tool with the gas and it works well with a little trial and error. Cleaning the remaining tar is easy with the gas. Then reapply and use the heavy roller. I didn't remove roller, I brought my slide 6 inches from in then unbolted the topper from the slide and used cordage to hold in place on the roof. I then put the slide fully out and removed the eternabond ( a 2x4 piece worked to raise the top seal enough to replace the eternabond at the innermost parts of the front and back ends of the slide... just force the wood piece under the seal about 4 inches from either end. You may need different thickness depending on how your slide is adjusted. Good luck! John One thing, my eternabond was pealed back at least an inch in some places when I replaced it. Also trying to get 12ft of eternabond completely straight is almost impossible. You can do it in smaller sections and overlap them about 4-6 inches. I think I dit the long edge in 1/2s. You may need a helper to tie up the topper on the roof. When I reinstalled the topper, I just brought in the slide about 6-8 inches from closed, set the topper on the slide roof (be careful of the tape, the brackets can slice it) and then rolled the topper from the slide roof to the slide face.and had the helper hold the other end in approximate place with a loop of cordage from the roof while I got the first screw of one side in. Then I moved the ladder to the other end and screwed the 2nd end of the topper in place. Then went back to the 1st end I secured and put in the remaining screws. Took a few hours to complete/slide much longer beforehand to learn how to secure the topper and remove the old eternabond. John

The Warning Light can mean several things. 1) Low fluid Levels (Oil, Coolant, etc). 2) One of several items out of range. I have a turbo actuator that sometimes sticks a little. So my warning light comes on often. I have also gotten a warning light because of coolant sloshing in my surge tank. If its a transient low fluid level, On my rig the light will go off after a little while. The out of range stays on until the motor is stopped (Key turned off). Sometimes but not always when you get an out of range, it sets a code that can be read. If you've checked your fluid levels, then you will need to get a code reader or go to a shop that can read the Cummins Insite codes. (Its not a normal ODBII connector). If the Stop Engine Light comes on, Shut down, its serious and it is warning of possible engine damage. The "Warning" Light is telling you somthing needs to be looked at, but is not at a critical state (Thats my take on it, anyway). Hope this helps, John

Check your air dryer. Any leak that drops you to 40psi overnight is findable. We had lots of small leaks and one big one. Two unusual places we found leaks were the back air tank ( every penetration was leaking). The other leaking item was the air dryer. The air dryer can develop a leak if the compressor is blowing oil.(particles get stuck in a diaphragm and prevent it from forming a solid seal. It was leaking from the Regen valve front. It would leak all the time slowly. We replaced the dryer and the replacement started above the purge valve. Best advice is spray every fitting with soapy water. We had to replace about 5-10 fittings that had slow leaks. The fittings are easy to replace and you can get them on Amazon. We went from 115 to 0 in 4 hours to 115 to 90 in a few days. We just learned where all the fittings were and kept checking everything. We didn't have issue with our "selenoid.packs" that control air in and out of the airbags, but I read of others that did. Good luck John

JDCROW, FYI, I have your same config (Mostly). Power Watchdog (Pedestal Type) -> ATS (LPTBRD50)-> Victron 2x120 -> Load Panel. I used the original 30A circuit (Downgraded to 20A) for the Micro and pulled another 20A run for the outlets branch). There is something to do to get full power from the Generator. (Generator outputs on ~33A on L1 and 33A on L2 (if you have the 8K generator. The Victron ignores L2 if its in phase with L1. Secondly I have made a modification to allow me to run loads > 30A when on a 30A plug using the power Assist of the Victron and the EMS will allow > 30A on the EMS panel on a 30A shore power without shutting down circuits. Useful to run 2 ACs on 30A, etc. Back to Your current problem... I have had one leg of a contactor in my LPTBRT50(?? from memory think that's close) go out. In our config, if L1 is passed, Victron thinks you are on 30A and bonds L1 and L2 and only draws power from L1. Meaning you will never see power flowing on L2 on your Powerdog in this situation. If you have a screwed up ATS control board that for some reason wants to switch to genny when you still have shore power, You would see Volts on L1 and L2, but no AMPS. Think of it like this. You are in a new house. You have the electricity on but nothings plugged in. You check the voltage at a receptacle its 120V. You plug in a killowatt meter (like the meter on your powerdog). Then plug in a lamp. If you measured power at the killowatt plug, it would show 120V, but would measure no AMP until you plugged a lamp or something else in that USED power. You could plug in a lamp, but until you turned it on completing the circuit, No AMPS are flowing. The only things that would impact both lines of your power is the ATS, The Victron inverter or the Main breaker in your circuit panel. The Main breaker won't recover from a trip. The ATS Might. The Victron might. BTW I even considered the Intellitec EMS, But that would only impact the main circuits (4-6 branch circuits) and you said you lost all power. So, Sorry, but do you have the Cebro GX and cool Display, and what happens to this when you lose power. This might be important. If I lose all Pedestal power, The Victron takes over the load. Now if I am running too much for it to handle by itself when shore power fails, the inverter shuts down and beeps at me. What type of batteries and how many amp Hours do you have. Do you know your BMS specs for Max output/ battery? It bothers me that you could lose all power with this setup. I currently have 840AH (3x280AH) It should support 360A at ~12v but I can overload my batteries if victron tried to do it all itself. Check your error logs also if you have the smartshunt, Check the history, look at battery voltage around the time you were losing power. Also, Inspect your batteries. I have heard of odd behavior from battleborn batteries that are loosing their internal connection to the positive power post. Looks like the plastic around the post is melting... Check for something like that. Sorry for the long post, but wanted to update you now that I know your full setup. It might still be your ATS, but even if it failed, you would have power from your inverter. The more I think about it, I would keep an eye on the victron display during one of these outages. Look for 30A on the EMS (Maybe the victron thinks you lost power (or you did) and is inverting. THIS WOULD NOT explain the watchdog showing volts on L1 and L2 though. But if the ATS screwed up and disconnected shore power and Victron picked up the slack and overloaded your batteries(so the BMSs cut power output) that might cause a full power failure. Seems to be getting rather complicated though. More stuff to check, but I am hoping it might help. John

Thanks Tom, After I got an friendly RV Park employee to lift the washer/dryer out, it was my old nemesis (The 20A resettable circuit breaker on the Slide controller board) I decided I had enough being bossed around with the controller placement under the Washer/Dryer and decided to relocate the controller to the upper sidewall of the upper portion of the cabinet (almost to roof level.) I had to get 7ft of #10 Red & Black THHN along with some butt splices, but now I can fix this easier, without taking anything out of the laundry compartment. I am going to build and install a box to protect it, but it works in the new location. Here's a cute twist. The Resettable fuse I replaced wasn't bad, Driving on the Alaskan roads had just vibrated it until it wouldn't work. I pulled it replaced it and it worked. Son Then I pulled it again and gently compressed the female spade connectors it went into. Then I removed the extra 1.4 inch tab (this breaker could have spades 3 different lengths, the middle length matched the original unit. I thought the extra wouldn't matter DOH!... Extra moment arm to allow bumps to shake it loose. Hopefully it will continue to work easily now. I was getting really tired of manually cranking out the rear slides!!! My battery powered 3/8" socket wrench would work on the bed, but bow what a pain when you had it 80% in and the extensions came undone... and they seemed to come undone at least a couple of times. You can mark this as resolved. Thanks again, BTW, Based on the Diagrams, I got the mistaken impression that it was the interlock (or maybe the interlock relay). Nope. I tested it using the spare relay (Thanks Monaco) on in the front electronics cabinet, no change. John

I found wiring diagrams for the 2007 Camelot and the 2009 Camelot, but am not sure which one I should use. Any Advice? I am trying to trace down a fault with the rear slides where I don't have power at the slide switch. Front slides have power to the switch and work fine. The slides worked when I stopped (1 wk ago) and just wouldn't work when I wanted to bring them in. Since the front slides work, I don't think its the ignition interlock. I have checked the 12v fuse in the bathroom 12v fuse panel and the one in the electrical bay (believe it is connected with the ignition interlock) and both were fine. My next step is to pull the Washer from the closet (the slide controller is located under the W/D floor!) and check the fuse and resettable relay. I will then relocate the slide control circuit board to the large closet next to the W/D cabinet (So it can be worked on without removing the washer!) Thanks for any advice you might give. John

One last suggestion. When you open the ATS, look at the wires inside and any contacts especially on the contactors ( they look kind of like circuit breakers without the switch to turn them off...all black plastic and screws with wires on them). Look for melted looking wires/plastic or discolored (think darker than the other wires, I e. Blackened copper or screw terminals). These are a sign of an arc (overload). That can happen when the ATS tries to switch under load and it can ruin the contactor (I know from experience). That's why I added "turn off thermostat" to moving day checklist just before I. disconnect from the pedestal.

If the ATS disconnects from shore power, there will be nowhere for the power to go. The coach would be disconnected from shore power just downstream of the watchdog, so the watchdog would see power but none could make it to the coach. That would show volts but no amps on the watchdog. Also, in my Ats there is an approx 30 second delay when switching from one source to another so maybe 30 secs for the power to come back.

My spidy sense is saying ATS. Maybe thinking it's got power from the genny when it's not on??? That would give you no power to your Circuit panel. When a relay failed in my ats, my EMS thought I was on 30A because line2 was not being passed to the panel. Good hunting, John

The female fitting is the port I was talking about. Mine is vertical, yours is the one on the right in the picture John

On my 2008 Camelot, It's not n the generator compartment along with the tank delrains. It is covered by a plastic cap that comes or to reveal a female quick connect. I have used it to pump up tires and even run a pin nail gun to reattach molding that got shook off on the road to Alaska.

Does the slide act the same way when the engine is cold? I had a problem that the slides would not move after a trip for a period of 10-30 minutes. Turned out to be an resettable circuit breaker that was reacting to the heat. your resettable circuit breaker ( on the slide controller board) could be weakening and if your motor is drawing a little too much current, it could cause the symptoms you describe. I have a 2008 Camelot and my control board was underneath the cabinet that the washer/dryer was in. Not sure if yours is in the same place. I was able to get a replacement from NAPA for about $8. If your roadside slide has the problem and your curbside does not, I would suspect binding or motor getting weak. Hope it helps, John

My 2008 Camelot has 140165 miles. I have put 35K on it since Sept 20. This issue started about 18 months ago and is slowly getting more prevalent. John Sorry, in rereading my response I realized I didn't answer the question. There are about 5000 Miles on the filters, but they have been replaced maybe 3 times since this started and didn't seem to have an impact when replaced. John When the power comes back the boost rises to over 30 (33-35). John

My fuel filters were replaced in April and made no difference in the way this problem presents itself. John

Hello Everyone, I have a problem I have seen here and could use some help trying to find a tool to find the real problem. I will (especially when going up/down hills have my warning light come on. This seems to frequently occur on a trip where turbo pressure drops to 0 for about 6 seconds when I am trying to accelerate. The Turbo recovers, I would describe it as it 'wakes up' after ~4 seconds and pressure builds and power returns. Couple of notes. Exhaust Brake use (or not use) has no impact on this. It happens either way. Occurrence is not frequent (Maybe every 6-8 hours of driving if there are hills, less frequent if flat). I have the Variable geometry Turbo that has an actuator to adjust the vane angle. The turbo will develop 33-35psi when fully engaged. My first thought is the turbo itself seems ok, it will provide boost up to ~33psi as required (unless this issue is happening). SO I suspect the Actuator. But is thinking about this I am wondering if it could be the control signals (Sensor(s), connections, Control module, etc.). This is where I could use some help. I have had this checked more than once and no codes are thrown. The warning light comes on, but they cant see the cause for it. Is there a product that will let me record the sensor data and commands sent to the turbo via the ODBII Port? (I know its a J89 or something, but can't remember the name at the moment 😉) I know this will be a lot of data, and I will need to figure out WHAT to track (which sensors come into turbo boost setting, etc) I believe the Warning is for a reading out of spec, and hope this will track down to a proximal cause of the turbo issue. I don't want to throw parts at it if I can help it. I have taken it to the local shop and to Cummings, but they never find any evidence of what's causing the problem. Thanks, John

Thanks for all the help. My issue turned out to be the resettable circuit breaker on the slide controller board. (Looks like a slightly larger metallic 12V fuse) It seemed to be tripping due to engine heat after a trip. I replaced with a spare from NAPA and used some reflectix to line the bottom and sides of the compartment and the slides work normally again after a trip. Thanks again. John