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Bill R

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  1. Bill R's post in Water heater with water turned off was marked as the answer   
    Highly unlikely.  If the HWH is full based on your scenario, and the tank has no leaks, it could lose (evaporate) water is if the PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) releases due to being bad, stuck open, or system continues to overheat, and this cycle continues to happen, then perhaps you could evaporate all of the water off.  But highly unlikely.  Haven't ever heard of that happening, but it could if that situation occurred.
  2. Bill R's post in Re-install TV and upgrade the receiver was marked as the answer   
    I recently did a receiver upgrade and discovered as @waterskier_1 pointed out that the OEM subwoofer would not work because the sub output of the receiver was not amplified.  I decided to purchase a powered subwoofer that fit in the same cabinet as the OEM sub.  More $$'s but it sounds great.  If you go this route you will have to provide 120V power.  This was not a problem in my situation as I had an outlet nearby mounted in the same cabinet as the sub.
  3. Bill R's post in Diamond Shield or 3M? was marked as the answer   
    Here is the first of a 3 part video.
     
  4. Bill R's post in Anyone have an idea where this is coming from? was marked as the answer   
    When this happened to me it was the trim piece above the storage bay door that needed to be caulked better.  Rain water would flow behind the trim piece causing the metal behind to rust and then flow down the front of the storage bay door.
  5. Bill R's post in Where can I find a PowerGear Slide out Sync controller 140-1140 on my 2004 Safari Cheetah PDQ was marked as the answer   
    Gary - No problem.   Go to Browse, then Download, and you will see it on the right hand side to download.  I also put a link below.  When you have the time, go through all the pull down menus on this site and you will be amazed what is on here.  All the best.  I think there is some contact info for this exact part you are looking for on the parts list.  Just hit ctrl F to search PowerGear.
     https://www.monacoers.org/files/category/16-parts-list/ 
    I found this from the parts list info:  https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Buy/POWER GEAR/POWER GEAR/1401140
    Very pricey, you may want to google for other options.
  6. Bill R's post in When to use ATC Momentary Switch on the Driver's Panel? was marked as the answer   
    @Dr4Film Thank you Richard.  I went to the coach today and with the ignition key in the start position, engine off, I toggled the ATC switch.  It does retract back to original position when depressed, there then is a slow blink of the dash ATC light.  My manual states that this indicates that the ATC switch is activated.  So I am going to assume it does not have to been held down for my coach.  If I toggle the switch again the ATC light stops flashing.
    Here are my learnings and thank you for such a great forum to guide me.
    1)  The ATC switch is NOT to be activated all the time.
    2) Activate the ATC switch only when there is an "ATC event."
    3) I will define for my purposes an "ATC event" as when the coach is on is soft and/or slippery surface that may cause the drive axles to spin.
    4) I will only engage the ATC switch at low speeds and maintain a low acceleration rate. 
  7. Bill R's post in Bad Capacitor, Bad Fan Motor, or Both? was marked as the answer   
    @96 EVO, @Tom Cherry, @myrontruex, @Ivan K, and @jacwjames.  You all nailed it, but I can't pick all of your comments as the solution.  
    I did the quick capacitance test today and the run capacitor was shot.  Both the fan and compressor were 0 uF.
    Made a run to the local appliance U-Fix-It shop and got a new and a spare run capacitor.  $46 total.  Installed and now she is running and quieter than ever.  Even seems to blow more air than before.
    So I have a couple of questions about these run capacitors.
    1) Do the run capacitors just die at once, or is there a slow degradation that will slow performance of the unit over time?  If it is a slow degradation then a quick capacitance test every so often during PM might head off a problem.
    2) Both my units are 13.5K BTU Penguin II Heat Pump.   The rear one is older than the front that had the problem.  When I looked at the rear unit run capacitor the spec on the label was 20 + 10uF.  But the one I had to replace had a spec of 40 + 15uF.  Why such a large difference?  Both units look nearly exactly the same except the older unit compressor is horizontal and the new one up front is vertical.  Does it really matter about how much difference there is?  If I had done a swap test would the 20 + 10uF capacitor have been able to run the front one?
    Thank you for helping me not only fix the issue, but learn more in the process.
  8. Bill R's post in 400 ISL - Faulty Intake Manifold Temperature Sensor? was marked as the answer   
    Repaired and Success!!
    First the Aladdin Outside Air Temp Sensor.  If it were the proverbial snake, I would have been bitten.  The sensor was hanging in the propane tank bay on the wire harness for the propane tank level indicator, passenger side.  See pic below.  When I went to inspect it, the two wires came out of the thermocouple bi metal tip.  I reinserted. crimped a bit, and taped.  Getting a good reading now.
    Second, I bought a new Intake Air Manifold Temp Sensor.  Installed, started engine and got a good reading.  Took the coach for a spin and the temp stayed steady at around 30F above outside temp.  See pic below.  So I am very satisfied with these results.  An interesting adder to this, while I was researching the Intake Temp Sensor, I decided to look at recently downloaded Insight ECM data.  (Thanks to @Frank McElroy for formatting for me)  What I discovered was that the reading was normal at the time of the download, but there was a history of 5 High Intake Temp faults from this sensor over the past 200 engine hours.  Each fault only lasted for 1 second.  I guess the Intake temp Sensor finally gave out.  
    Thank you to all who commented on this post.
     


  9. Bill R's post in 50A to Inverter was marked as the answer   
    @johncvandoren@gmail.com  I have had to replace a few 120V lines in the main panel in our coach for various reasons.  I gave up trying to trace the existing wires through the coach and just decided to figure a new way to run the wire where I needed it to go.  Lot's of options when you start to look at it from the perspective of creating a new route.  Something to consider.
  10. Bill R's post in 400 ISL - What is this sensor? No wiring connector attached. was marked as the answer   
    Harry - thanks, then probably not originally intended for my model coach either.
    Exactly Frank - I have what is needed via the thermal sensor by the thermostat which is the engine temp for the ECM.
    Michael - I was thinking also this may be more of a switch type thermal sensor.  Same conclusion though, it is not needed since ECM is already monitoring and I have no engine hot light.
    Jeff - who knows, but very possible.  Thanks,.
     
    MY FINAL CONCLUSION - Thank you everyone for your responses.  It seems unanimous that this sensor is not required for my coach.  Still a mystery as to why it is there, but not needed to really know why. 
  11. Bill R's post in Dash AC Vent Hoses - Shorten/Insulate? was marked as the answer   
    So I ended up removing over 4 feet of vent hose.   Turns out that the lines with excess length were all floor vent lines.  Not so sure how much more efficiency I may have gained, but definitely a better install.  See pic below.
    As I was doing this, I discovered another issue that I will start a post under a new topic.  Thank you for everyone's input on this one.  
     

  12. Bill R's post in Hydraulic Fluid Leak at Reservoir Fitting - Need Help and Suggestions was marked as the answer   
    Updating this post because after thinking that I had fixed a leak at the barbed connection of the return hydraulic line on the hydraulic tank, it started to leak again.  
    Not only that, but it was starting to leak at the other barbed end where it exits the hydraulic cooler.  I decided to replace the entire line with crimped ends.   I also had the hose shop install a 45 crimped end on the exit of the hydraulic cooler because the previous rubber line had bent making the the turn around the cooling stack.  
    While replacing the hydraulic return line, I noticed that the wrap for the hydraulic line going to the cooling stack fan had been rubbed all the way down to the copper tube.  This happened because the line was tied down against the corner of a frame rail.  I have moved this section up away from the frame rail and wrapped it with a rubber encasement.
    I know that@Frank McElroyhas seen worn coolant lines that were tie wrapped to a braided air line.
    Case and point, check your chassis/engine service lines that are wrapped against anything that can move and rub while in motion.  You may prevent an unexpected/unplanned event down the road.  I know I did.
     



  13. Bill R's post in Turbo Intake Hose was marked as the answer   
    The Cobra heads are designed where you do not have enough turn radius for a 90 degree.  They are basically the same with regards to air flow capability, but your choice on whether you want to stay with the 90 degree or go with the cobra head.  I know others with the 400ISL have the cobra head going to the turbo.
    Also given the design, the cobra head probably provides better support of the "L" pipe and may prevent cracking at the "L" pipe connection as you describe you have.
  14. Bill R's post in Solar Charge Controller - To Leave On or To Turn Off While in Storage - That is the question? was marked as the answer   
    Thanks @dbircky @Rocketman3
    The consensus is to leave on and I will. 
  15. Bill R's post in Turbo Dropping Out - VGT Air Actuated was marked as the answer   
    SOLUTION FOUND!! - PROBLEM SOLVED!!
    First the punch line, then I will step through the process of what I did to find it. 
    The rubber boot connection to the turbo inlet was collapsing because of restricted air inlet flow caused by a compromised (reverse collapse) air inlet filter.
    How did the air filter become compromised?   The air filter was changed out by a truck shop 10 months ago and only has 4,000 miles on it.  But......IT IS THE WRONG FILTER.  The air filter installed does not have the steel flex wrap, inside or outside.  Being a new coach owner at the time I didn't even question the new filter they installed.  Now I realize it is not the specified filter that requires a steel flex wrap both inside and outside.
    Process of getting to finding the compromised air filter was long, but this is what happened.
    1)  To ease my mind of a lack of fuel issue, I spinned off the H20 separator to inspect.  Slight amount of algae on two ports, but not much.  But I went ahead and replaced both the H20 Separator and Fuel Filter.
    2)  Checked the axial movement of the VGT cone to make sure it was not stuck.  This was performed by looking at the pneumatic actuator rod that moves the external pivot lever that will axially move the VGT cone for the turbine.  Turning the engine on, pressurizes the pneumatic actuator from an electronic control valve with an air input line from the secondary tank PPV.  When engine was turned on I observed the pneumatic actuator fully engage the pivot lever that moves the internal cone for a minimum boost pressure (expected for startup).  So no issues found there.
    3) Removed pneumatic actuator to check for sticking/range of movement for both the pivot lever and actuator.  There are several Quickserve procedures on how to do this, and it is important to follow because of air pressure that is need to be supplied externally for removal and operation.  Once the pneumatic actuator was removed, I was able to manually move the pivot lever on the VGT body back and forth with ease.  No sticking or restriction.  Applying external pressure to the pneumatic actuator resulted in full movement per specifications with out sticking also.  Actuator and lever were lubricated and actuator reinstalled leaving a pressure gauge on the actuator line.  So again, no issues found.
    John - thank you for your input on this.  When you wrote this I was already in the throws of doing what you suggested, but it is great to see commonality in the process.  I didn't understand though your comment about antifreeze.  There was nothing involving coolant that I had to deal with.
    4) Time for a test drive.  Started out great.  Running up to 65 mph in cruise and no boost issues.  AND THEN....loss of boost with black smoke.  WHAT???  Pulled over, and with the help of my BIL, mechanical engineer and aircraft mechanic who was helping me, we came up with a plan.  He would look at the pressure gauge while I drove, to see how the electronic control valve was modulating the pressure to the actuator.  Off we go, and as I accelerated my BIL saw the pressure fall as boost was need for increased speed.  Exactly as it should respond.  When I got to 55 mph I just gave it the gas, lost boost, and my BIL yells, I SEE THE PROBLEM.  He explained that the inlet boot to the turbo was collapsing, and thus we immediately knew we had some sort of air inlet issue.  Pulled over, and disconnected the rubber coupler on the filter outlet and slid it just slightly forward to allow for some air bypassing of the filter.  We were about 10 miles from our spot, so I drove back and had plenty of power with no boost lost.
    5) Pulled out the air inlet filter and immediately saw the compromised filter on the outlet.  The element had somehow lost structural integrity and without a steel flex wrap it did not maintain its form and collapsed outward filing in the annular void where air would need to flow.   See pic below.  There is also a pic of what the correct element should look like with the steel flex wrap.
    Lessons Learned -  Air filters need to be wrapped inside and outside in with the steel flex mesh and be only the specified ones in the manual.  If you have someone else changing your air filters, be absolutely sure they install the correct ones.  I will continue to do almost ALL work on the coach that I can.  Many shops out there do not know enough about our coaches.  I was trusting they did as a new coach owner. 
    And many thanks to Frank McElroy who kept me on the straight and narrow in troubleshooting.
     




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