Jump to content

JJMonaco

Members
  • Posts

    101
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by JJMonaco

  1. I had Jake Brake problems on my 2002 Signature coach (ISM 500) similar to yours. It ended up being a bad foot-switch. Check the continuity between the two wires. It should be zero ohms when the switch is on.
  2. I can see from the photo that your old setup was the same as my 2002 Signature was before I changed over to Lithium (LifePO4) batteries for my house battery bank. In my case I did not want to have the alternator charge the house batteries directly. I have a dc to dc charger coming from my chassis batteries to my house bank that can charge the house bank when the engine is running. In your case you want that option to combine both battery banks assuming both of your battery banks are lead acid types. The double buss bars on the bottom of the photo are for you house battery distribution to the circuits you want the house batteries to feed. It appears you have nothing feeding that bus. It needs to be fed directly by the house battery bank. In your case you want to have the option to combine the two banks. I believe all you need to do is identify the large red cable that is the direct feed from your house batteries and connect it to the double buss bar in the photo. (not to the input of the ML ACR) That will power the house. Then run another same sized red cable from the switchable output of ML ACR to the house bus bar. That should allow you to combine both banks when needed. However, I would not keep them combined all the time. You will need a way to charge the house batteries by themselves to their specific charge parameters when you are not plugged into shore power and unable to use your inverter/charger to charge the house bank. House batteries and chassis batteries have different charging needs. JJ
  3. I recently installed the same alternator on my 2002 Signature. That alternator is self exciting -so it should have 14 .1 volts with engine running at the output when testing between the + and - on the back of the alternator - if the ground connection is good. You don’t even need to use a 12v sense wire or have the tachometer feed wire hooked up for it to work. It may need to have bump up in the rpm to get the self excitation to kick in. Otherwise it may be a defect.
  4. Did you hook up the ground wire connection bolt on the alternator to a good common ground?
  5. I recently replaced my DUVAC with the Delco on my 2002 Signature. No problems so far. If you go to my post, it addresses the issues you may be having. Good Luck, JJ
  6. https://copilotgps.com It’s not free, but it works sooooo much better than RV trip wizard-RV gps map for your phone in my opinion.
  7. Here's the Info I used on how to get the blink codes on my 2002 Signature ISM. Good Luck, JJ
  8. My electrical manual is the same way-not complete and I don't have the fuse chart on the door. Once again thank you for the information. Now I have the info I need to identify what the fuses are for. Previously I had to waste a lot of time testing each fuse to find the bad one. JJ Paul, Thank you for the link to the 2002 Signature owners manual. I already have this and unfortunately, Monaco must have forgotten about listing the FR fuse list. Luckily I received photos of the fuse chart from Peter-(On The Road). So I am all set. Thanks to all that responded. I consider this post now closed. JJ
  9. Thank you Peter-On The Road Again! You made my day. That’s what I was looking for. I’m curious about the name of the manual where this info is located. I have the 2002 electrical manual but it does not have the fuse diagrams you posted. I’m posting a picture of its cover and wondering if this is what your manual looks like? Thanks to the other members who replied. The 2002 signature front run bay layout seems to be quite a bit different. All The Best, JJ
  10. Does anyone have a chart that shows what each fuse is for in the front run bay of a 2002 Monaco Signature? I need one… Thanks, JJ
  11. Welcome! Do you have side cameras that work or just the backup camera? You need to determine if its the camera or its connection. If the side cameras work, then you need to check for a failed connection to the backup camera. Hopefully you will find it in the dash area. It could be as simple as it came unplugged. On my 2002 Signature, my backup camera did not work when I purchased it. I tried hooking up a new camera to the original cameras wire. It didn’t work either. I checked the camera connections in the dash-they were fine. I then started tracing the wire to the back camera. That’s the difficult part. Eventually I found a break in the wire and spliced it. Your other option is to buy a new wireless camera setup. That’s probably the best solution as the new cameras have much better resolution and are easy to install. Good Luck, JJ
  12. Jim J, Thanks for all your thoughts. I want you to know that I got the Jake Brake working today. Thanks to you! I started my Jake Brakevtroubleshooting again today by double checking all the wiring. I checked the foot switch again and under the drivers side arm rest and found nothing out of order. I happened to read your post on my phone while working on the project. Based on your suggestion about the fuses on your coach, I checked every fuse in the Front Run Panel for the third time. However this time, I decided to use my volt meter to check both sides of the spade connector while having the ignition key turned on, to verify continuity through the fuse. Sure enough I found a 4amp fuse, #10 on panel # 2, not be conducting. It was a corrosion issue. I got my can of de-Ox it out and cleaned all thirty six blade fuses and fuse receptacles. Unfortunately I do not have a diagram of what each fuse does in the FRP, so I have to check each blade fuse when there is a suspected issue. That did the trick…Finally after another test drive, my 2002 Signature Jake Brake is back working great. It’s been a long time coming! Thanks again! I consider this post now closed. JJ
  13. The parts came yesterday from Advanced Truck Parts USA in FT Lauderdale, Florida-only $68. with shipping. I installed the new Boost Temperature sensor - Advance Truck Parts 3085185 Cummins Engine Air Temperature Sensor (#3 on the engine diagram ) and the Intake manifold pressure sensor -Advance Truck Parts 4921493 Cummins Pressure Sensor (#4 on the engine diagram). That solved the lack of power problem. Yahoo! The two sensors were an easy install on my 2002 Signature. The area on the engine where they are located is easily accessible from the floor access doors in the aft closet. However, the Jake Brake is still not working. I had assumed this was a result of the ECM depowering the engine. I was wrong about that. I have checked for 12v being passed through at the new Pac brake foot switch. That's doing its job, so on to more troubleshooting... A BIG -Thank You- to all who contributed to this post. There is a lot of good information here for future reference. I will start a new post concerning the Jake Brake troubleshooting on my 2002 Signature and look forward to your help. All The Best, JJ
  14. I was able to get a the Cummins account and setup a free Quickserve account. From there I looked up the 123 error code. The symptoms of the 123 code mirror the issue the coach is having. I followed the troubleshooting directions and tested the voltage at the intake manifold sensor and found it to be 4.9 volts - which is in range and indicates the ECM is sending the correct voltage. (To test the voltage: with the ignition key off, you remove the wiring harness connector from the manifold pressure sensor, there are three wire terminals in line in the plug, very carefully connect your volt meter to the two outside terminals leaving the middle one alone, I used two sections from a small paper clip to insert in the connector and attached to my volt meter with jumper wires, then turn the ignition key on, correct voltage is between 4.75 to 5.2 volts DC) This tells me the sensor is bad. (I’m hoping) Since there are two sensors on the manifold, I ordered both a new a manifold pressure sensor and a manifold temp sensor. I am enclosing a engine diagram photo from my ISM 500 owners manual. Number 3 and 4 are the sensors I am replacing. I will report back when I have them installed. Thanks again for all the comments, suggestions, etc…. JJ
  15. Brad, Thanks for this info. It's a bit hard to read but I think I can get the info I need. Will get back to you. JJ
  16. The Low power and warning light Saga on my 2002 Cummins ISM CM570 continues... Sorry, this is getting long! --Recap: I have an intermittent 123 error code. (Low signal detected at the intake manifold pressure circuit) I drained a little fuel from the secondary fuel filter -no water. The coach starts right up. Don't think I have a fuel pressure shortage issue I also checked for leaks in the CAC, hoses, etc. No visual defects or leaking air sounds when the engine was running. On a test drive yesterday the coach would only get up to about 60 mph max. That took two miles to get up to that speed with very very slow acceleration. The jake brake is not working. According to my users' manual, the ECM shuts down the Jake brake when depowering the engine when it sees an error code. The cruise control works fine. Max boost pressure is 7.5 with accelerator to the wood. On this test drive the warning light flickered a few times and then went off within the first mile. In the middle of the test drive, I did stop and shut down the engine and then restarted - no more warning lights. When I got home I shut down the engine and then did the dash blink error code check and it was clear - no errors. This morning I tested the jake brake foot switch (New Pac Footswitch a couple of months ago) to confirm it was passing 12+volts. It's working. When I turned the key to the on-position the warning light was on again. The coach had been sitting in the driveway overnight. I did the dash error code blink test and got the same 123 error code again? Next, I removed the flexible intake hose from the new air filter, so I could see if that made a difference in power, etc. Then I started the engine, let it build up pressure and the warning light stayed on. I drove the same route as before-about 6 miles. The warning light would blink as I pushed down the accelerator driving down the residential road to the highway. The warning light would go away for a few seconds and come back on as soon as I removed my foot from the accelerator. It did this for the first mile or so. When I got on the highway and got the speed above 35 mph, the warning light went off and stayed off. When I got home I shut down the engine and let it sit for a couple of minutes and then restarted it. No warning light. I'm ruling out a restriction in the incoming air to the new air filter. Just to make sure, I did the dash blink error code check again- no errors. The Cruise control worked fine, but still no jake brake. Max speed 58 mph today. Boost pressure max 7.5. What should it be? One thing I noted when at idle the boost pressure is at zero and does not move if I rev up the engine while in neutral. Is that normal? I'm hoping this is not a turbo issue as I don't think I have the knowledge to troubleshoot or repair that myself. I read all the posts that have come through and really appreciate all the advice and input. I have a registered Cummins account. However, could not get it to accept my password and got locked out trying to get a free Quickserve account. At this point, I am still thinking the ECM has depowered the engine due to some electrical issue with a sensor. Since the warning light was on again in the morning after the motor cooled down overnight and then it goes away when the motor comes up to temperature, could that be a sensor problem-temperature or intake pressure, or that barometric sensor mentioned in one of the posts? Unfortunately, I am stuck for a while waiting for my Quickserve account to open up. I would like to get an electrical schematic, error code list, and service manual so I can see about ordering a few new sensors and give that a try. The engine is an ISM CM750 if anyone has any PDF's they could post it would be much appreciated. Thank Again, JJ
  17. Frank, I'm not sure what and where the charge air cooler is and how to check it. Can I assume it is in line after the air filter?
  18. I changed them last April. They only have about 3500 miles on them. I have never drained any water out of the secondary, so I will check that... Tnx.
  19. Jim & Bob-Thanks for the ideas. I know the large plastic corrugated intake hose was clear when looking into it from the filter intake side. I did not notice any moisture in the pipe or the old filter. The particulate in the old filter was dry. Tomorrow I will try to get into the rest of the air intake system and see what that looks like. I would think since the warning light and error code are gone that there isn't an air restriction anymore. I wish I had a good code reader! It feels like the ECM is still depowering the engine.
  20. To update on my warning light issue- Thanks to all for the suggestions on diagnosing the warning light and its error code, software, etc. I took my coach out for a test drive after my last post. It had not been on the road for several months. I had hoped the warning light would go away after driving a bit. It did not. I found I had a big-time loss of power. I could barely get the speed up to 50 mph. Boost pressure would not go higher than 6 on the gauge. The cruise control does work. From my understanding, the ECM must have depowered the ISM 500 due to the error code. The jake brake doesn't work and I think this happens when the ECM depowers the engine. It turned out that Yoats5 - Keven Y had the solution for how to read the error code on my ISM 500. Thank You! I found the shorting plug under the dash above my left foot and followed the direction in the info he posted. Basically, when the shorting plug is connected and you turn on the key without starting the engine, if the warning light and the stop engine light on the dash stay on, the warning light will start flashing out the error code. Like most things, it's pretty simple to do once you have the directions. The error code was #123. It means low pressure is being read at the intake manifold. The first thing I thought to check was the air filter. I live here in Florida a little North of Ft. Myers. We had gone through Hurricane IAN with 130 mph winds and our home had roof damage from fallen trees and lots of flying debris. The coach was parked outside my home facing into the wind. I checked the air filter gauge in the engine compartment that is supposed to tell you when it's time to change the filter. It showed it was OK after my first test drive. Next, I took the filter off to check it. Sure enough, it had caught lots of leaf particles and debris inside. I installed a new air filter today and took the coach out for another test ride. The warning light disappeared after about three miles. However, after driving it for about 30 minutes on the highway I still have a significant loss of power and no jake brake. With the pedal to the metal, acceleration is very slow, the rpm will get up to 2000 rpm when it shifts. Speed wise it will only get up to a little over 60 mph max. Boost pressure is a max of 7.5. The cruise control does work. I don't have any warning lights. When I got home I checked for error codes again using the shorting plug procedure. There are no error codes. I did stop along the test drive and shut off the engine and let the coach sit for a couple of minutes, before restarting and going on my way, thinking it would reset the ECM. I thought the ECM was supposed to automatically reset. Is there something I'm missing, or is there a way I can manually reset the ECM? Do I have another issue? Time for a new post on that question. Thank You, JJ
  21. I need advice on how to read the error codes without going to the Cummins shop. I thought I read some where that there was a way to have the dash warning light and the stop light blink out the error codes? The coach has a Cummins ISM 500. Do I need to purchase diagnostic or monitoring software -Silverleaf or Bluefire? The warning light came on about a month ago and stays on when the engine is running. I have not taken the coach out on the road since this happened as I’ve been working on the leveling system and other issues. There doesn’t seem to be an obvious problem the engine starts up fine and the transmission is working. I had been just starting up the coach in the driveway to air the system up and troubleshoot HWH issues. Now the HWH system is repaired and its time to get the warning light figured out. I checked all the fluid levels and the low coolant sensor- no problem there.
×
×
  • Create New...