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Irishman1

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Everything posted by Irishman1

  1. I like your fuel economy with your boat my 1965 chris craft got about 20 gallons an hour each engine, at seven knots, that was my sweet spot. Twin engine Oldsmobile 503’s. Now my Monaco monarch is getting about 10 miles per gallon. I’m happy with that.
  2. I’ll check, it definitely sounds like a warning buzzer that goes away as soon as the pedal is released or you put the gear selector out of park. I haven’t checked it it does it with just the key in and not running tho That sounds like what’s going on with mine, an electric buzzer when the keys is turned on and the brake pedal is pushed until it’s started, then it hoes off. Thanks
  3. 2005 monarch 30ppd with the ford f53 chassis. Want to know if this is normal. When the mh is running and in park there is a loud buzzing noise when you push the brake pedal. Maybe a warning buzzer? Goes away when you move the gear select out of park or take you foot off pedal. I’ll look for a speaker or buzzer under the dash later
  4. I’ll try going through the connections, they do seem tight tho. . I do have a pretty extensive collection of electrical tools and testers to make and test my own 12v wiring harnesses for my honda restorations. That’s one reason I’m so frustrated. I’ve done enough wiring to know not to let the magic smoke out! Lol. I just tired one last time with another new lighted switch with no joy. At least the water heater IS coming on and heating on both 12v and 120v , just no light in known good switches.hmmmm. After I install a new damper switch in my microwave, install my safe-t-plus and my new converter I’ll swing back to it. Thanks again for all the ideas. I still would like just one picture of the back of a 2004-5 monarch 30ppd panel showing the stock wiring with the matching switches. That would be the easiest way for me confirm I have the wiring back the way it was😢
  5. I didn’t say “LEAVE IT ALONE” thank you. I said “leave for another day “ quite different. I’m just going to work on a few other things and come back to it. again. Thanks for the help
  6. It was exactly the same, the lighted switch that lit up when turning on th 12v did not light up when installed in the 120v circuit. The 120v lighted switch that did not light up when turn on anymore did light up when swapped to the 12v position. It did not light up when I swapped them back to original positions. That’s when I last tried a new lighted switch from e trailer that they sourced for me Now after all the messing around, the hot water is getting hit with either or both switches. However the 120v switch still is not lighting up when turned on. Since I have hit wster with it I’m going to just leave it for another day and get back to installing my new safe-T-plus stabilizer and get my Apple TV set up.. thank you to all of you for the help and guidance!!!!
  7. Having thought it was just a burned out light bulb in the 120v switch and I still have hot water with the 12v gas switch I had swapped the switches with no difference in symptoms, no light on the switch, I then replaced the 120v switch that did not light up with a new switch from e-trailer and the symptoms remained the same as stated in the beginning. Have done that I figured it must be something else and asked here. I’m pretty sure the switch is not the problem here and is downstream
  8. Here is a picture of the back of my two switches. Not many of the colors are the same as the diagrams the two white wires are jumped between the top terminals yhe middle black wires are jumped tiger and tied to the water pump power switch the green bottom terminal and the bottom grey wires go down the wall . The bottom grey shows 13 bolts when the 12v switch is on. That’s the only power I read with any terminal
  9. Here is a picture of the back of my two switches. Not many of the colors are the same as the diagrams
  10. Yes, thank you, just what I needed. My two lighted switches have thee ‘terminals’ I originally swapped the switches when the 120v light stopped illuminating thinking it was just the switch lite that was bad since I still had hot water. When I swapped switches it was still the 120v switch that didn’t lite up. Swapped them back and tried the breaker and fuses, which are all good. Had installed a new lighted switch since I had one. There is a small possibility that I didn’t wire the switches back correctly and I did have a bad switch, so I need to make sure the wires are on the correct terminals before chasing my tail around however unlikely. If all is correct and still no electric function I’ll need to get at the water heater and test there
  11. Is there another switch besides the two on the panel? I switched the lighted switches first and then tried a new one to no joy.. I’ll take a picture of the back of the switches tomorrow. Show what it looks like in real life. There is a white jumper between the top two poles..the Atwood wiring diagram shows just two poles on the back of the switches but my two switches have three poles. I wonder if I mixed up the jumper at some point when I was trying a new switch and then put it back incorrectly jumped
  12. Here’s a pic of my panel. And a small water heater wiring diag. Not sure now that checking power to and from the switch is as straight forward as I think. The switch definitely doesn’t light up when turned on but switching the switch with a known hood one doesn’t work either so I’m confused for sure
  13. I just went out to the mh snd I unplugged the water heater from the single outlet under the sink next to it and I have power to the outlet, I will take the panel off tomorrow and recheck the leads to and from the switch that doesn’t light up. The other problem is that I can’t get to the water heater. It is in the cabinet under the counter besides the sink with no access besides the outside panel😢the Cabinet walls are solid on each side. I thought I could remove the sink and come down from the top but the double sink is off to the inside of the water heater. I’ll try to remove the drawers that might get me some access to the side with the power cord. But first I’ll recheck the panel wiring snd switches
  14. Thanks, that makes sense, I’ll go out and recheck the power coming into the panel again because I don’t think I checked the 12v because the lighted switch illuminates when I turn it on and the gas heater comes on and I have hot water. I just checked the in and out lines to the switch as I originally thought it was just a burned out switch bulb. But the wster doesn’t get hot on just the 120v switch too. I’ll go out and pull the panel again to double check both switches and also take a picture of the panel too
  15. No EMS, my plain panel just has the tank monitoring levels, battery voltage for house and chassis, water pump switch, two slide buttons and the two lighted water heater power switches, 12v and 120v. I have a small breaker box in the bedroom which has a 12v. breaker for the water heater, which is ok( and I put a new breaker in it too) and a fuse panel which also has a blade fuse for the water heater, which I replaced. The 12v switch test power at the switch , lights up and the gas lights and the water heater gets hot. The 120v has no power in or out( I also replaced the lighted switch since the panel was out)doesn’t light up and doesn’t produce hot water. How it has no power at the switch but the breaker and fuse is good probably means there’s something between the switch and panel I would think,hmmmm
  16. My Monaco is the monarch and does not have a intelligence system, just a switch for both gas or/and 120v from the panel
  17. I will but if I don’t have 120v at the switch on either side would I expect to have power at the heating element?
  18. Hi guys,, on my 2005 monarch 30pp I have a gas/electric water heater. It has two lighted switches on my main panel that light up when they are turned on. This summer the 120v lighted switch stopped lighting up when on and my water doesn’t heat on electric only. It does heat up on the 12 v gas switch. I don’t have power to the 120v switch on the back of the panel and all of the fuses/ breakers I could find are ok.. where do I go from here??
  19. Not sure if this is built this way or I have a little problem. At the top of my windshield above the rubber seal I have a gap that evenly goes across the the front above the seal, about an inch wide. You can see the fiberglass front shell there. Sometimes in the cold mornings where I might have some condensation on the glass I will have a drip or two from the center of the seal/glass pane joint. Is there supposed to be a gap here? Should I seal it? Thanks in advance mike
  20. I just bought a needed white ‘snail’ Colorado end cap to replace my broken one on eBay for $70.00
  21. I would like to hang a small deceptive electric fireplace on the back bedroom wall, which is the rear end wall of my motor or home. I saw a Monaco monarch like mine with one mounted on this wall. My question is how thick is the end cap from the interior wall?. The mount has 1 inch screw anchors. It obviously was done on the one I saw but I don’t want to drill through the outside shell.. thanks in advance 2005 Monaco monarch 30pdd
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