BigNick

Thankyou so much thats fantastic, I will check that fuse, Im guessing by run bay you mean the area inside where the AC breakers are?

Hey there Plano, I'm in the Dallas area too. I just found my dash ac isn't blowing cold , I totally clueless as to how the system functions and pointers would be appreciated.

Refrigerator icemaker valve.

I guess I'll un subscribe from this one, it has strayed.

I run mine whether I need it or not. Berke and Carillo are the 2 best. Last thing I got for it was the control board, fixed it up. It was heavily corroded I guess from salt air. It's worked perfectly ever since, Carillo had the best price, Roger was about $50 higher on it. But, Roger's forums are the best even with the cost to get in,, imo.

Understood, how do most folks get it into the coach?

I wonder about the ladder mount, it seems the Starlink needs a 2.5" receptacle for its mount so I'm thinking I need an adapter for my ladder which is 1" and then a 2.5" pole. (maybe one that will fit in the useless sewer drain line stowage pipe. Then I wonder about the cabling, which cable is needed? RG7 or what?

It was my kid that thought it was funny. He's been talked to and is a good kid and smart. I have his back no matter so whatever the mod does, thats up to him. .Sorry for the disruption.

Is there enough bw to pull down Netflix hbo max, Amazon or other streaming services?

Huh!!! Interesting, why go with starlink vs a mobile booster? Sorry to be ignorant fellas, I'm trying to weigh out pro and cons..

An inverter is incapable of charging anything. It uses electricity coming FROM the batteries to power some circuits on the coach, it "inverts" the DC (direct current) voltage from the batteries into AC (alternating current) to power microwaves, refers, and outlets. I have a Xantrex Freedom 3012 unit on my coach, it has an inverter section and a battery charger section, and probably a few others in there that I don't know about yet. I wasn't trying to be a smart ass so please accept my apologies if I offended.

Oh boy, I knew that statement would draw a crowd.

This is the one I got. I haven't used it yet. Looks like 45-55 seems to be the preferred pressure.

Watching this thread and also wondering what's a good pressure to keep it at.

Mine didn't have inverter power either and there's a residential in there, so I found the inverter receptacle in the basement, extended the power cord, snaked it down there and plugged it in there.

I looked but didn't noodle around with a meter. That's next. It didn't look to promising. See pics.

Thanks Walter, there is an electrical bay there. I'll get in there and noodle around. So, Domestic Hot would live unswitched House Battery power and a good place for AGS to sense house battery condition. This is a perfect spot because the wire run is only a few more feet from the current location. I suspected there might be house power in there but just had a hard time believing it would have been run all the way up there. Thanks again.

https://www.cummins.com/generators/motorhome-and-rv/wireless-rv-auto-generator-start-system Btw I did a fairly detailed install thread over at IRV2

I have thought of a different scenario and I want to present it to the group. I believe, but haven't proven the genset is starting from the chassis battery. I believe this because I was running the coach off the inverter the other day, (1rst time). Backstory on that is the refer could only run off shore power or generator, I wired it to an inverter receptacle in the basement and it runs great, now I can go down the road without running the genset and be confident the food is good. Anyway, as I ran the coach off the inverter I noticed the battery condition status on the AGS app didn't budge off full charge and my sense wire for house battery is connected to the genset start posts on the cabinet. This makes me believe these are chassis batteries because the Xantrex remote showed an almost complete discharged state for the house batteries. I started the gen normally from the start switch and recharged. The AGS didn't do its job in this scenario since I have it set to start the gen at 11.2. So, this brings me to the question. Where can I find a house battery sense location towards the front of the coach? Right now the closest place I can think of is where the batteries connect to the inverter/charger. Is there a location forward of this point so my wire run isn't so long?

Ok , I'll do that.

As you guys may remember I added the new Cummins wireless AGS system just before storing the coach in December. I'm not sure I have the sense wires hooked up correctly. I wonder which battery the positive lead to the genset start circuit comes from? It would seem logical to me to start the genset from the chassis batteries. In my mind, I think I want to monitor house batteries, and it has the capability to monitor both. I just need to know which one starts the genset. So if I'm running off the inverter and it pulls the batteries down I can charge them. Anyway, If the answer is "depends" , what would be a good test to figure it out?

Interesting, I think I'm set at 12.2 now but I'll verify today. I'm not sure about the low voltage for genset start, my cable run is front to back as well. As far as hydrohot fire up, I've spent so much time and $ just getting that system back into shape, I've never experienced it not starting due to low volts yet, that's a new one I didn't realize even could happen. Thanks for the post, informative...

Im going to muddy the water just a tad so sorry to hijack your thread in advance. What is a good value to set the LBCO to if the AGS is activated for example in a primitive camping scenario?

I have a Xantrex Freedom 4k, in the remote mounted inside there a place in the menu to select the inverter off. I don't know abut the Magnums. I would think it would be the same with a place to shut it down.

Mine has a fairly course screen to keep critters out but not dirt, I'm thinking of permanently mounting a washable filter element there. Lets the air in but not road filth.