nvrtoofast

Nice find with the video. Shows the elements well.

My 06 Camelot had a similar issue. I changed the dryer and had to wind up changing the pump. It looked quite bad. fixed my issue. Not necessarily your issue. However, I would agree that you should limit driving till a repair is done. Air Brakes aren't that great without air. Best of luck to you.

Tom, Correct on multiple fronts here. - I don't have the Aquahot. I've got the old Hydro-Hot system. In any case not as nice and not the same one furnace fits all. lol - The MicroAire is very recent and replaced a 5 button controller. Being newer it should work with 10 DIP but I'll verify. - The Brisk II did not come with a new board and reused the existing 8 DIP that was in place. - The Penguin is a 13.5 KW unit and had the 8 DIP board when I got the rig. Likely changed by the previous owner at some point. The wiring looks like it was done by a rat or a squirrel so the may have followed the modification instructions you mentioned. I'll read through the docs you highlighted to check it out. The heat pump worked before the 5 button bit the dust.documentation will help to sort it out. - It is a mixed bag currently. But, both boards are 8 dip so if I got a 10 I would need to get two. I'll do a tad more research and run through it all this weekend. Hopefully I'll get by without buying two new 10 DIP boards. If not that's OK. Thank you for the jump ahead in research. I always research but enjoy getting a head start from the Veterans. AND, HVAC seems logicl till too many cooks get in the kitchen before you can get your hands on the soup. But hey, that just makes it a fun challenge.

Thanks for the updates. The replacement board is the same as the one it replaced. Not necessarily OEM as I am not the first owner. Will double check all outputs and connections. Heat pump worked before changes so It does exist. Just need to make it happen. DBRV.O Your phone tip normally works. low light and other factors inhibited photo and I wasn't really taking it for show. Just took what I got and ran. Thanks to all comments. I'll go through another troubleshoot this weekend.

Sound like you're on the right track. I have had the GFCI outlet go bad before. Checking all connections is a good place to start. Good Luck.

Thank for dropping in. Here are some answers to your questions. Which control board did you replace? The control board for Zone 2, the rear unit. It is the Brisk unit and NOT the original unit. Did you copy the dip switch settings from the old control board? If not, do you still have it? Unsure. I did a lot of troubleshooting and switched the rear board to the front and modified the system a lot. I have a photo I took of the control board before removal but it is also hard to read. My camera really did not like the boards. Is either your Brisk Air or Penguin (and its control board) original equipment? Zone 1: The Penguin is OEM Do you still have the original Dometic 5 button Comfort Control thermostat? (It would be very easy to reinstall it and perform a System Reset just for troubleshooting). The 5 button controller broke. It is the reason for changing to microaire Difficult to see your pictures. First, your Penguin II heat pump must have the heat pump dip switch on (assuming it's a heat pump). My Board only has 8 switches. there is not a heat pump switch like your 10 switch board. The switches present are: Heat Strip, Zone 2, Zone 3, Zone 4, Furnace (on), Deferential (no idea what this is but it is OFF), Stage (also no idea OFF), Gen Start. Do you have an Aqua Hot heat system? Yes. But it is the older system with only one electrical heater. It is a electric/diesel boiler. Did you perform a thermostat system reset when you installed the new control board? No I did not. Also, when you set the Penguin II board to heat pump, make sure you perform another thermostat system reset. No heat pump switch. Attached is a picture of my Penguin II heat pump control board. I'm attaching a pic of the board before moving it around. It is also blurry and hard to see. Stupid Phone. Would like to know what differential and stage dip switches are. Still open for questions.

Hey all, During the summer, one of my control boards went bad on my AC unit. I recently replaced the board. I have a penguin II in zone 1 and a Brisk II in zone 2 And a Micro Aire controller. The Penguin is a reversible while the Brisk is not. After repair, I currently have two issues: - The Penguin Heatpump will not blow heat. Can't seem to activate it. Both units function as AC - The furnace shows activated on the microaire but does not come on in any zone. This may be due to the control board setup. I'm adding a pic of the DIP switch for the Zone 1 Board. Current ON settings is | Zone1: Furnace only | Zone2: Furnace and Zone 2 | The microaire shows AC and Furnace for zone 1&2. When I activate the furnace on Zone 1 or 2 The zone heaters do not blow. I switched on electric heat and then also tried Diesel. Niether worked. I'm currently in South Carolina and the Heat pump would be sufficient but I cannot figure out how to turn it on. My need here is to get a strategy to diagnose the situation. I need to: - Have a functioning heat pump - Have a functioning furnace Side Note: I have not maintenanced the furnace in more than 1 year. I used it extensively in winter 2022/2023 and it functioned well. Thank you in advance for the help.

This gives me an idea...

going to replace my bathroom skylight. Summers have been hot and I'm wondering if smoke will be better than my current clear dome. I wanted some input on the differences. I've done some searching and can't find any information on the light differences. It won't make a major change on winter cold getting in. How dark is the smoke? What is it like with opaque white or black? I want to balance natural light with reduced UV heating in summer. I plan on getting some sort of insulation pillow or similar anyways. Let me hear your thoughts as I hope to buy one this week and get to fixing the old one.

Come Baaaack 2020! I did 15K miles in 2021 and while they weren't that good. They weren't 2023 bad. Nice memory!

Tires are an important part of the mileage game. I would double check pressures as that will make a difference too. that drastic of a change is astounding though. Please report back if you find anything. Very curious to put this on a do not buy list if in fact they are an issue. What a shame. New tires should bring happiness and stress relief.

Thank you for taking the time to comment. Lovin' it. Keep it coming.

Great photos. The CAC is likely my next project

Great point. Unfortunately, I have a non-profit event to feed lunch to 2,500 people in my town for Thanksgiving. I don't think I can take a leave of absence in late summer and still keep up with the event. Originally wanted to go in July-September.

Hey all of you high experienced travelers. I'm working on planning a trip to Alaska for 2024. Will likely head that way on May 1 for a two month excursion. I'm an adventurer and am looking for all of the things that most people might overlook in a on week trip. we'll travel all over and have no problem boondocking where needed. Just have to follow the P's. Proper Planning Prevents Poor RVing. Or something like that. So tell me some stories. And give me some ideas of what to do and what NOT to do. I want some fresh crab and fish. need it. Hunting and fishing is not off the table either. You know Alaska? Bring it...

A quick note on Automotive insurance. The industry is going through some growing pains. I was talking with a friend who has been working in the industry on a high level for a long time. The recent changes in mobility from the pandemic, economy woes, and the last few hurricanes, floods, and fires have them a bit upside down on revenues. They are scrambling to regain revenues by increasing policies. The prior statistics and models don't seem to be working in this storm going on. They have even pulled out of a few states all together. Progressive, who used to be the go to to insure anything, is hurting and changes are coming. Find a good policy and get it signed for as long as possible. The industry is shifting and it will likely be a few years till it settles back into place.

I'm a tad surprised at the cost. It is engineered well. The plastic is all 3D printed plastic. No molded plastic. Likely run low inventories. I would have expected it to be a tad cheap. It is a bit overbuilt for my taste. even the 3M tape adhesive units run near $100. surprising for something that costs around $2 to manufacture. The low market volume and amortization of engineering is likely the high costs. With the patent still pending, there is likely an opening in the market for a molded unit knockoff. $20-$30 Just saying...

Hey All, I'll try to avoid any pitfalls in this post. Nearly everyone uses Amazon for purchases. Since the pandemic, I have not been satisfied with their service as it has decreased service to keep cost in check. A normal company objective. I'm not sour about their focus. I'm just cognizant of quality of service to me. I ran across https://publicsq.com/ and am quite happy with it. I AM NOT affiliated with them in any way. I do like what they are doing and the companies there are mainly small businesses working to grow their market. Which typically means they are more focused on quality and service than the bottom line. This may change at some point as they grow. But currently they are really interesting. they are idealistic in nature so you should check that out to see if you line up with that or not. Worth a look. Everything from Jerky to Toiletpaper. They highlight small businesses across the nation. Who doesn't want some Bumroll in the RV? Feel free to tell me why you hate it. As a serial entrepreneur, I'm always curious bout that stuff.

I used a child safety lock. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Safety-1st-Refrigerator-Decor-Door-Lock-HS187/203754425 Got tired of those left hand turns throwing the pickles out on the floor. Locked it across the french doors and it worked to keep the doors shut.

I got the same ATOTO unit. Works well. Original unit was 1.5 DIN and had to open up the hole but there was plenty of room for it. The unit has a few cost cutting elements to it but works well and you can't really beat the price. I'm going to take a bit more time soon with the connections as there are multiple connections that can be used that I don't currently have hooked up.

On a side note here is a nice overview of RV "happy" dash units. https://www.thervgeeks.com/rv-radio/.

Worst case is further cracks from that one. But, I would see that as a low probability at this point. Have a good trip.

Actually difficult to find stuff. A lot of the commercial places like Camping world have significantly decreased their in stock supply of replacement hardware. I found a top roller there, fortunately. I also started searching pocket door hardware for houses. There have been a significant amount of engineering on the housing side with soft closing/opening pocket doors. I put one in my house and the best thing ever created. No more slamming of the pocket doors. If I hadn't found the replacement hardware so quickly, I would have taken some residential hardware to repair it.

On a trip the inner roller contacted the stopping block inside the pocket and bent a roller. Seeing how your door is disconnected from the second roller, You may just be able to get the roller down the track and reconnect. If not you'll need a roller. I got mine from a camping world nearby. I had to cut the bottom of the track open at the outer most point to get the rollers out and replace with a new one. Just make sure where you cut is not in the normal track of the rollers when using the door. Disconnect the door and figure out what you might need to fix. Hopefully you still aver the second door for the bathroom to use. Good luck on the fix. Sorry seeing it IS the bathroom door not the bedroom door. Everything else applies but the but the second layer of privacy 😉

Hey Kevin. I'm not much help for you here but I am curious what you are looking at. Can you throw up any pics?