GNRACN

Lucky you! Wish I had one.

Do all of the above and touch grind to bare metal as near as possible to area to be welded for ground clamp. Watch for burning under-cote and plastic air lines if your doing it yourself!

Lucky you!!

I only can find fuses and relays for high beam headlights in the front driver side run box. Is there another board that I am missing somewhere. Have pulled bulbs out and checked filaments in bulbs, both appear to be ok. Have not separated bulb from wire socket as yet because not sure how to disconnect from wiring harness. Any advice appreciated!

I just recently had to replace pass side seal. There is no evidence of a seal leaking on the back side of your hubs that I can see. Mine was oil soaked all the way around back side of the brake and drum. If you ever wondered how much of a vacuum is created at back of coach, I had oil on top of roof on rt. rr. corner coach! Not to mention the toad. My neighbor who has a mobile OTR on site alignment and brake, suspension business repaired mine and wouldn't take any money for it. So can't help on the cost of repair. Don't over-fill the lube!!!

I have towed a 2010 GC for over 40,000 miles and have never experienced the wobble that many have talked about with newer model Jeeps. That being said, does that mean newer model Jeeps have electric power steering. Maybe I need to re-think the urge to upgrade!

Hi Bob! My name is Darwyn and I have a 06 Dynasty with on and off air problems so have some experiance enough to be dangerous to myself and those that might listen. I might have some advice for you on some aspects of your coach. I live in Brooklyn Park, MN. 612 309 7351

What we have here is every acrylic solid surface fabricators worst nightmare! High heat cycling, thermal contraction and expansion of up to 1/8" when using in just the cook-top area. Then introduce vibration, flex and shock, the propensity for failure is very high. I am absolutly amazed of the durabilty and fabrication stands up to the riggers of RV use. I fabricated and innovated methods and techniques for most of the major brands of acrylic manufacturers and was certified in all of them. Look under the back of your countertop and should be able to see what brand it is or go and look at samples in cabinet, floor covering, home stores to determine the brand that you have by looking at patterns that match yours. I highly recomend using a qualified fabricator. Most major cities have someone who is the go to guy for the major manufactures for warranty repairs. Warranty on residential applications is like ten or twelve years depending on the brand. This is not a bad hair cut once you screw it up with the wrong repair, it doesn't grow out! I sold, fabricated, installed and yes occasionally repaired acrylic and laminate countertops for thirty five years. Good Luck with whatever you choose to do! Side note: Correct adhesive sets up in about an hour and has a open time of less then five minutes maximum!! Sorry about the length of comment.

Exceptionally well written and spoken! Or as they say "nailed it" Thank You!

Has anyone taken appart the camera mounted under the mirror on a Monaco Dynasty Coach (06). The small four fasteners what looks like cap screws are notscrews or bolts. Are they pop-off covers with screws underneath?

I too have this system. The EMS or break-away tank has to be mounted in or on the towed vehicle. I went a couple steps farther and added a air regulater to the air cylinder to avoid locking up the toads tires after installing brake pressure gauge in the coach and seeing 60 to 90# brake apply pressure in coach. I set the max pressure in toad to 40#. I also tapped into GC brake light switch wire to a small LED light mounted with vel-cro to wind shield to verify brakes are applying. Toggle switch under dash. Have about 40,000 towed miles on this application, it has worked flawless. I thought that I read where there are only 2 or 3 states that don"t require brakes with break-away feature including Canada on towed vehicle!

What are you using for a brake system?

I believe the only thing 110 volts on that refer. are the electric heater coils (2), everything else is 12V.

Do you have the high temperature cut off switch which cuts off 12 volt power to Norcold 1200 series. Also there is one for sure and maybe two fuses in black plastic box on rear lower left side of refer. which controls 12 volt power for control panel on front of refer. No lights on panel, refer does not run on LP or electric without 12 volt power. Go on to u-tube on how to reset high temp. switch with a magnet. That patch fix by Norcold is very susceptible to moisture especially when washing! Somewhere around here I have schematic for a jumper wire to bypass high temp. switch. I don't recommend using this patch. I believe that they only catch fire on LP when ammonia is leaking in gaseous state. Hope some of this helps!

Thank You!

Flexability is paramount for me as we usually leave in Dec. with temps under 10 deg.f. Food for thought, be sure plug fits through cord opening in floor of coach with power reel option.

Seam to not have power or response from main up/dn, fwd / bk, tilt and raise switch. Lumbar works and chair cushion moves frwd. and bkwrd. Prior to this problem I turned chair around and no power at all functions of chair. Upon removing wire loom covering discovered wires had fell out of the twist wire nuts (3) of them, obviously was a previous problem not properly repaired. I have three wires from coach #12 white (hot) all the time of which I attached two red #16ga. one with white stripe and one with black stripe. One green ground #12 to which I attached two black wires from chair that were indicated as ground. One orange #16ga. which I connected to yellow from chair. I see what looks like a control module under seat cushion. Hmmm. Any direction or advice greatly appreciated. Chair is off from pedestal platform at the moment so that I can see quite a bit underneath. I thought that one time I had seen something about a 1.3 amp fuse related to the power seat? Don't know where that came from though.

First of all I am not a large fan of silicone! That being said, check out Sikaflex LM series polyurethane (low modulus) I purchased at construction supply company in New Hope, MN. Not one of the box stores. If your able to get someone who cares at the Depot they may order it for you. It cleans up with mineral-spirits before cured. I prefer an old "T" shirt stretched over individual finger, doing only about two ft. at a time, don't over apply. Trim nozzle to size bead that you want. Tool bead with finger, keep finger wet with min spirits' Use a good grade of mechanics rubber gloves! After you have removed old silicone with plastic or nylon tools to use as scrapers (no metal) remove as much as you can as it is relative to how the new caulk bonds. Prior to applying new caulk wipe the application area with denatured-alcohol on a soft cloth, rub rather hard so as to get into seam area, dries fast. I have not found that neither of these thinners harm the paint on the coach! I have masked and air brushed if color is not available. Bond is excellent and semi flexible. Hope some of this helps you out.

I used the same fix on my Diplomat. My panels were not loose. Parts are available at some Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware in the nut and bolt department in the slide out drawer boxes. Be aware of the gasket on the bottom of the door if it is still there. Should just touch lower frame when closed with a slight amount of curl on it!

Check fuse in lighter socket, center should be positive, outer shield ground. Also check fuse in charge chord. Some lighter sockets need ignition be on or accessary turned on. Check voltage at socket. If 12v is good, chord is not making good contact in socket. Most lighter socket charge chords have a fuse under center pin of chord.

Do you have pressure in the tanks? If you do, sounds to me like you have a bad low air pressure switch. Crawl underneath and pull the wire off of sender. If you have air pressure in the tanks (over 60#) it should turn off. Some front tanks have 2 switches, rear tank only 1. I believe it to be a grounding pressure switch. Mine went bad on the road and all I could locate at time was a 90# so needless to say always had buzzer on longer than necessary. If your traveling pull the wire and monitor your air pressure. If you pull the wire on the correct sender only, the other one should still warn of low air pressure in system. Check online for correct pressure setting and thread size when you have time to shop. Don't get screwed buying on the road as long as the other low air works I personally would drive to destination. I believe 60# is correct pressure for switch.

Problem solved! Thank you so much for the picture and info. Mine was not located on the back of the board but it got me to the right pew. Traced the wires up to wet bay ceiling. Cut a few tie wraps, spread some wires and there it was right over Aqua-Hot pumps, fuse holder and relay. Fuse was blown! Again thank you for reply!

Recently replaced under sink or galley blower fan motor as previous one burned up when we were not at home. The switch and blower work fine as tested with aux. power. I have no power on the green wire to the switch and I can't locate the source of that wire in the Multiplex panel. I have removed and checked the five relays and they all switch on off as they should. Fuse is good on circuit marked under cab galley blower in the multiplex. Have spoke to aqua-hot and they tell me that blower for galley sink blower only is powered by the coach electrical system because of high current draw is to much for the aqua-hot panel. When the motor burned up I'm sure it would have tripped a fuse or relay because it locked the motor up tight. I have down loaded the files from this site plus I have purchased the 06 Dynasty electrical diagrams. It's bailed me out several times, but not this one. Anyone with any ideas or thoughts would certainly be appreciated! HELP