Doug and Nicki

I have a 2008 Dynasty. The water line for the refrigerator is clearly visible if you remove the bottom panel on the exterior wall at the refrigerator location. You may want to see if there is water getting to the refrigerator. If so, then you likely have a defective valve in the refrigerator that will not allow water to exit.

I received a fault code 1 111 01 25 on a recent trip. The dash light was only on for about 30 seconds and then went off for the rest of the trip. I have looked at possible causes and see it may be ECM failure. Not sure if this is a correct diagnosis from this code. About six weeks ago, the engine would crank but not start. I shut off the post electric and the battery disconnects. After ten minutes, I then reconnected the power. This apparently reset the ECM and it started right up. Have any of you had this experience? Is there a concern that the ECM may be failing? What other possibilities may cause this?

Can you push the seal back into place? If so, I have used a couple shots of black silicone behind the rubber and then pushed it back into place. Mine has held for several years.

I have two Thetford Techma's in my Dynasty. I replaced the control unit in one of them to resolve similar issues. The unit is tucked inside the rear cavity and stuck to the porcelain with some sort of sticky tape. I bought mine from Veurink's, I believe. It is a pricy part, $300 or so, but took care of my problem. Hard to tell if that may be the cause of your situation. I guess it could also be a bad macerator pump motor. https://www.ebay.com/itm/225827707839?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338678874&toolid=20006%26customid%3Ds%3AGS%3Bgc%3A1240e23a80871468984387ec900529e0%3Bpt%3A1%3Bchoc%3A1&customid=s%3AGS%3Bgc%3A1240e23a80871468984387ec900529e0%3Bpt%3A1%3Bchoc%3A2&msclkid=1240e23a80871468984387ec900529e0 This is a link to a picture of the control unit.

The AZ Expert is big on Lithium Iron batteries. Nearly zero fire hazard. He has a newer YouTube video on them.

I use the braided hoses to bring the inner dual and tag stems to the outer side. I can fill them all from the outside.

I would do what David says. It can be welded by someone who knows what they are doing and will be good as new.

Thanks. The black rubber on mine is still pliable but it looks like the best bet is to use a putty knife around the light fixture on the inside to release it. Not sure what was used to make it stick. Looks like some sort of black tar like stuff.

Push them inward or outward?

I have a 2008 Dynasty and this backup light lens is discolored. The opposite side is white. Anyone know how these are removed? Looks like they are placed from the inside with adhesive.

I have the same ceiling in my 2008 Dynasty. There are three bolts that you will find on the edge of that ceiling panel on the driver's side of the panel. Remove the two end ones and then the center one while holding the panel up. After the center bolt is removed, slowly drop the panel. It is hinged on the passenger side of the panel. It will hang there while you do the work. Over each of the two AC units, there is a mesh fabric panel that is removed by taking out the corner screws. You will then see the AC units. The drain lines for these AC units run inside the ceiling and exit outside the RV. The rear of the two units on mine used to run toward the back, but I rerouted the drain hose to connect with the front unit, so both now drain to the front. If you feel the gasket is leaking, first try to tighten the four AC corner bolts two turns. This will compress the gasket and may stop your leak. Look at the corners of the AC units. You will see a bolt in each corner These are the ones I am referring to. The gasket is a sponge rubber material that will compress to seal the gap. Also, inspect the drain hoses to make sure condensate is not leaking from the hoses. Hope this helps.

There are three ride height valves on the Roadmaster chassis. One in the front and two in the rear (one on each side). Your left side ride height valve needs to be inspected. These valves have a lever that comes off them with a rod that attaches to the frame. The rod may have come out of the rubber holder. If everything looks intact, your ride height valve may be defective. I have had to put two new ones on my 2008 Dynasty. Do some YouTube videos and look at the archives in Bill D's. Also there is a Monaco owner group in Facebook that is very helpful.

We have a 2008 Dynasty and have had tiles loosen or crack due to age, flexing and travel. We removed the loose ones, cleaned the subfloor by scraping off the old adhesive and also removed adhesive from the loose tiles. We then reset the tiles with appropriate flexible adhesive and used silicone grout in a caulking tube instead of regular powder grout mix. So far, it has held well. We were lucky to have a bundle of new tiles in the closet to replace the cracked ones.

It is likely that the rods that go to the upper and lower latches have some slack in them. I had this problem and it seems it is something that happens as things get older. To resolve this requires the inner door panel to be removed. The inner window frame must be removed (do not worry, the window will not fall out) and all the various items on the inner door, including the strap, and the panel with six screws, etc. You must also remove the screws from the outer edge of the door so the outer frame piece can be rotated outward. This will allow you to remove the entire plastic door panel. Once you get to that point, look for the rods that run from the lock mechanism to the upper and lower latches. You will see jamb nuts on those two rods and there will be slack in them. Tighten the nuts to remove the slack, but no not over tighten. You just want to remove the slack. When you put it all back together, your problem will be solved. I used some blue painter's tape to hold the deadbolt lock cylinder n place on the outside of the door. Otherwise, it will fall out as you remove the various items on the inside of the door. The entire process takes about an hour.

Thank goodness for Bill D's. There is a post about a Cummins cranking, but not starting. There were a bunch of possibilities mentioned, all which require a bit of diesel engine knowledge to handle. One of the posters said to disconnect the power from the RV to reset the ECM. I just had this problem and spent an hour or so trying to look at fuses, etc. After reading the post, I shut off the land line power and turned off the two battery disconnect switches and let the system drain. After a few minutes, I reconnected the post and flipped the battery disconnects back on and the monster came to life! What a wonderful group of people to help in a time of need!!!!

Yes. Run it on diesel once each month for ten minutes. It keeps the nozzle clear.

No need to apologize. We are doing fine.

Ivan, you are absolutely correct. I should have looked at it before asking the question. I was looking at another group post about carrying a shorter belt. The ISM500 does not require it. Thanks for straightening me out!

Anyone know the fan belt spec to bypass the AC compressor on an ISM500? I want to carry one, just in case.

The black batteries are your engine starting batteries. Get a volt meter and check the voltage across the furthers negative post and positive post. You need to have 12.3 or better for full charge. If you do not have this, then hook up your charger to bring them up to full charge. All my batteries, including the chassis and house charge when on shore power. The Big Boy isolator in the rear run bay handles this. If I am wrong here, please let me know why.

Ugh! you are going to need to use solvent on that. I would try several different ones to see what will work best without damaging the roof. All of that needs to be removed to get to a clean roof. I never use Eternabond or any other tape product on the roof. It is nearly impossible to remove. I would use Dicor lap sealant around the new light. Are you sure it is riveted verses screwed?

Good input. Makes sense. Thanks.

Thank you, Tom. Yes. The shades and sun screens are on two multiplex switches. It is always confusing to me to figure out how to trace things back. I have looked at and used Detox on the grounds in the electrical bay outside the driver's seat and also the ground bar in the generator bay. I have not done anything in the rear multiplex control panel, so will check that next. I appreciate your input.

I have MCD shades throughout a 2008 Dynasty. The ones in the bedroom and cockpit work great. However, the ones in the living area are acting strange. When the switch is pressed, I may have one work and then another. Sometimes I just get a beeping sound. All the motors are good. It seems like I may have a low voltage problem with this one circuit. Most of the time, if I hold the switch, sooner or later they will all work. Has anyone had this problem and discovered a fix?