Doug and Nicki

It is likely that the rods that go to the upper and lower latches have some slack in them. I had this problem and it seems it is something that happens as things get older. To resolve this requires the inner door panel to be removed. The inner window frame must be removed (do not worry, the window will not fall out) and all the various items on the inner door, including the strap, and the panel with six screws, etc. You must also remove the screws from the outer edge of the door so the outer frame piece can be rotated outward. This will allow you to remove the entire plastic door panel. Once you get to that point, look for the rods that run from the lock mechanism to the upper and lower latches. You will see jamb nuts on those two rods and there will be slack in them. Tighten the nuts to remove the slack, but no not over tighten. You just want to remove the slack. When you put it all back together, your problem will be solved. I used some blue painter's tape to hold the deadbolt lock cylinder n place on the outside of the door. Otherwise, it will fall out as you remove the various items on the inside of the door.
The entire process takes about an hour.

The black batteries are your engine starting batteries. Get a volt meter and check the voltage across the furthers negative post and positive post. You need to have 12.3 or better for full charge. If you do not have this, then hook up your charger to bring them up to full charge. All my batteries, including the chassis and house charge when on shore power. The Big Boy isolator in the rear run bay handles this.
If I am wrong here, please let me know why.

I installed the starter last weekend and the result is excellent. There is one wire that must be removed from the original setup. It is a small wire from the starter to the solenoid. I think it was a ground wire. The top bolt is tough to get loose, but can be done with a bit of creativity. My slow crank problem is solved. Thank you all for the comments. This is a very good upgrade.

this may be the Big Boy solenoid in the rear run bay. That device controls when the batteries are charged. I have had to replace mine twice.

There is a single ride height valve that handles the front end and two on the rear. I ran into this on the rear of my dynasty. The ride height valve is either defective or the rod has come out of the holder. 

I have the LZ702W. Just removed it recently. This is the display the GPS was using. Please message me at doug@dbcraig.com. How about $25 which includes the freight?