Adam_C

For mine I ultimately decided I couldn't find anything that would work and also fit in the cabinet. The surround speakers being 4 ohm really complicated it. I ended up just going with a sound bar with a wireless sub.

The only way I know of to get RV values without paying for them is to use JD Power's website. It's the same website banks use to determine loan values. Another avenue you may have would be to inquire with dealerships about trading it in. That would at least give you a floor value.

R00731

I have two replacement springs for carefree of Colorado awnings. Bought the wrong ones; my loss is your gain. Asking $50 each. Located in Huntsville, AL. Both are still in the boxes, so also willing to ship on your dime.

I got mine from CG&J Radiators. When I brought it in for a radiator leak they pressure tested the transmission cooler and it failed. Hadn't had any issues before that.

I do have a block heater switch and know where it is. I just need to figure out how to get it to run without the ability to plug in...

This is my first time owning a diesel and dealing with the temperatures we have currently. RV is currently winterized and sitting in storage without easy access to power. We've got a camping trip planned to start Monday and I'd like to get the camper to the house so I can plug it in, start the fridge, get it loaded up, etc. Given I have little to no experience with the block heater I have several dumb questions. How cold does it need to be before the block heater becomes essential? Is there any good/easy way to run it off the batteries? Is that wise? Will I be able to get the generator started? Temps for my area attached. Thanks for any and all info/thoughts/opinions.

Mine had pex going to the reel.

Is it pex? A picture would be helpful.

I went with a 17.2 cu ft Hisense (link below). It fits perfectly width wise but is just a tad taller than than the Norcold. If resources were limitless I would have much preferred a french door model for the fridge portion, but they were nearly twice as much as the Hisense I went with. With slide in we can still access the fridge though it definitely doesn't open very wide. With slide out we can open it almost a full 90 degrees. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hisense-17-2-cu-ft-Bottom-Freezer-Refrigerator-Stainless-steel-ENERGY-STAR/5001252387

Just Google the part number. If it happens to be the one below, I'd recommend finding a new one. I'm on my third one and I've only owned the coach two years. I'll be going with blue sea eventually. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FQSJH46?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

A half tank is excessive. Last time I did mine I used 10 gallons of bleach solution for three sinks, a shower, and an ice maker.

So are you saying you would recommend the CG&J radiator, if convenient?

I have Bluefire, but bought direct from Bluefire. Use an iPad to connect to it. I'm getting intermittent bluetooth disconnects, but haven't tried troubleshooting anything yet. May be a me problem. It works well and saves me from having to rely on the inaccurate fuel gauge.

Thanks all. It's definitely coolant that's leaking. I decided to try to spray the rear via the fan and just a normal garden hose damaged the fins. Definitely sounds like it's time for a new radiator. Hopefully Irontite will save the next couple of trips until I have time to replace it. CG&J is definitely tempting, especially since they're only an hour and a half away, however after hearing the problems @jacwjamesand @Dr4Filmhave had I don't think I'll be using them.