WisMonarch

What kind of paint can be used to paint the cloth covering on window valences? Do you have to get "fabric paint" or can standard latex paint be used? If fabric paint is required what are some good sources? We'll take any advice you have on applying paint to the fabric! Thanks!

Thought I'd provide feedback on what I found and the fix. When I looked under the dash it was obvious that the headlight switch assembly had literally fallen off the back of the dash switch plate. They were originally glued or melted together. I guess that's what 18 years of vibration does. I "super-glued" the switch assembly back to the dash plate to hold it in place correctly and then reinforced the connection it with epoxy. And we have a working headlight switch again. Lesson learned: Along with Gorilla tape, keep superglue and epoxy in my RV tool box. Best Regards

2004 Monaco Monarch SE - 37' Our new, to us, RV has some significant flooring issues from a leaky ice maker and I'm pretty sure I'm going to need new subflooring all the way down to the beams when I pull up the linoleum. So I have few questions. 1. What would you recommend for a replacement subflooring material? And how to protect the bottom? 2. What are the advantages of “engineered flooring”? 3. Have you every put in electric floor heat under the engineered flooring? Is that doable? 4. I think we are going to put new carpeting on the slide out rather than hard floor so we don’t have to deal with the slide out edge rise and fall when it’s in and out. Any thoughts on that? Hope you are doing well. Thanks for your time and recommendations.

Ivylog - Can you suggest places I can get the four corners individually weighed? I'm new at this and I don't know where to start looking for that. If I can't get four corners I guess I'll just use a CAT scale. I really did not think I would be under aired at 100 psi on each tire - but maybe? I thought setting the cold pressure when the outside temp was single digits or low teens and driving into temperatures in the 60s or 70s might have something to do with the pressure rise. Thanks for weighing in. No pun intended. Best Regards, Lee

Thanks for all your thoughts and experience. I feel much better about the tire pressure rise now. So, Here's my plan. The outdoor air temp was in the low teens when I left Wisconsin two weeks ago. I had the cold tire pressure set at 100 psi on the recommendation of the place I bought the tires from. (I haven't been able to weigh the four corners of my coach yet but will and then will fine tune the pressures.) Its about 55F outside in Florida as I type this and the tire pressures are sitting at between 104 and 107 psi. For the trip home leaving Florida in two weeks I'm going to set the front and rear dual outside tires to 102 psi. Since the inside tire of the duals heated up and the pressure rose more than the outside, guessing because they get less cooling air flow and are closer to the brakes, I'm going to set the inside tire pressures about 3-4 psi below the outside. My theory is when the insides heat up they will close to equalize pressure with the outside tires. I'll watch the tire pressures and if they get too low in the colder weather as I head north I'll add a little more air when they are cold. BTW, there were originally extension hoses on one side of the coach dualies. I looked at them before I left and one looked like it was almost warn through in one spot from rubbing on the edge of the rim. I took them both off. I'm guessing that's why the two were gone from the other side. Best Regards, Lee

Thanks for your comments. After some searching, I found my Build Sheet and I'm off to e-bay to buy some replacement Storage Bay door keys. This group is GREAT!

SCORE - on the build sheet. The rest of the story... First, Thanks everyone for their responses! Based on your encouragement I went looking again and found the plastic sleeve in the back closet where the build sheet should have been - but it was not in there - OH NO! Now what? Based on "Land Lubber's" comment I went looking, for the third time, through the literature file the PO, the original owner, had with the rig. He had seemed to keep everything so if there was a copy in the original documentation it would make sense that it was in there. And sure enough, in very back of the 6" literature folder, folded in two, tucked all the way down to the bottom of the folder, were TWO copies of the build sheet. I'm guessing one from the closet sleeve and the one that was in the documentation to begin with. Now I can orders some replacement keys for my storage bay doors. Thanks again for all your input.

2004 Monaco Monarch There is supposed to be a "Build Sheet" posted some where in the coach. I've looked for it but have not located it. Can anyone give me some hints where I should it might be located? Thanks, Lee Cline 2004 Monaco Monarch - Ford F53 - V10 2005 Jeep Wrangler LJ - Toad

Thanks everyone for the wise council! I want to get the four corners weighed but haven't figured out where to do that yet. Any comments on the pressure equalization lines you can add that go between dualies? The outer ones run cooler and at a little lower pressure after they all come up to temp JoeFromPerry - When you see an RV in site 441 after Sunday night, stop in and say Hi! Oak Alley is where we are headed. We have close friends in 440 we are meeting there. I grew up in Castalia, Ohio, by Sandusky. I drove through Perry many times. Need I say it; Its a small world...

2004 Monaco Monarch Me again, Turned on my head lights today while driving and now they stay on all the time. They turned on and off with the switch last night! I turned the light switch off and the ignition off and pulled the key - they still stay on. The only way to get them to go off is shutoff the engine battery disconnect switch. Is a sticking relay common or is it more likely the switch? Or something completely different. I'm in the middle of travel so I'll start serious troubleshooting in a couple days. Thanks for your patience and advice.

2004 Monaco Monarch - its all new to me! I can't find a key for my basement storage door locks? What is the best way to go about getting replacements? Thanks!

2004 Monaco Monarch Greetings, We are at the end of the first day of our first trip - in our new to us - first ever RV - from Wisconsin (-5F tonight) to Florida. We are in Mt Vernon, IL tonight. I put a TST TPMS system on and started with 100psi +/- in each tire. The TST indicated that even with outside temperature in the 40s the front tire pressures went up 10-15psi and the rears went up 15-30psi as we drove. With the inside tire of the dualies going up the most. I had the cruise set between 65 and 67 for most of the day. We're towing a 2005 Jeep Wrangler and its tire pressures went up from 32 to 34 as we drove. The tires are new Continentals - I really don't want a tire failure. So I have several questions: 1. Would you consider that pressure rise normal? 2. What would be the maximum pressure you would let the tires get up to before you let some air out? 3. Am I going to need to lets some air out when I get in hotter weather (hopefully in a couple days) and then put more back in when I return to the frozen tundra in four week? It will be in the teens here in Mt Vernon in the morning so I don't want to let any air out here. We hope to be in Webster, Fl Sunday afternoon. My signature has failed to post in the past so... ------------------------------------------------------------------- Lee Cline 2004 Monaco Monarch - Ford F53 Chassis "Monty" 2005 Jeep Wrangler LJ

The rest of the story... Thanks for everyone's input and suggestions, they did help! I got to work on it today, it was a warm 39F in Wisconsin today so this was my chance, and here is the result. As you may or may not remember I wanted to change my rear view camera system to be on during all driving, not just in reverse and I wanted to install a second "high mounted" camera in the system. Digging back into the dash as you all encouraged me to, I DID find another cable behind the middle of the dash that looked like the cable for the original rear camera and it had a S-Video plug on it. I cut the plug off and sure enough it had the same 4 wires as the cable in the back. The old camera system must have used S-Video. Eureka! I figured I'd just tie the four wires together in two pair, to provide good current at low voltage drop, and hook them to the ignition power wire I found under the dash (more on that later). I'd be in business with power in back for the new 2nd high mount wireless camera mounted where the original was. Then I found our why the previous owner (PO) must have replaced the original camera system - I got no power in the cable at the rear of the RV. The S-Video cable must be broken between the front and back of the RV. Bummer. On to plan B. That was to temporarily scavenge some power from the clearance light about eight inches above the camera location. I figured I just hang a wire down from the clearance light to the camera until I could come up with something better come spring. But when I removed the clearance light I realized I could easily fish wire inside the back wall from the clearance light wire hole down to the camera wire hole and make this a permanent fix. The light wiring even had open crimp connectors in the wiring I could put the camera power wiring into and just crimp shut. YES. Connected it all up and shoved the wires back in the back wall and all is good. It all worked out very nicely. I will have to do some more caulking of holes come spring. (The outside temperature was dropping by now.) Back to the power wiring behind the monitor. The monitor and 1st camera would only come on with the tranny in reverse. I really wanted it powered more than than so I could watch my Toad and see the traffic behind me. (Did I say I'm new to RVing) There was third unused wire in the cable to the monitor. I traced that back and all three were connected to separate wires behind the dash; red, white and black I think. I knew the power wire that was being used was only hot in reverse, what about the other one? Could it be? Yes it could, it was hot whenever the ignition switch is on. Perfect. Now I can turn the monitor on whenever the RV is running. One last challenge the 1st wireless camera in the system, that the PO installed, was mounted down low on top the bumper. I'm guessing because its easy to scab power from the cobweb of wiring under the back of the RV. And sure enough they had found the backup lights power wire and connected the camera to that. It made sense since the monitor was only powered up in reverse, but I wanted it on when driving so I could keep an eye on the Toad hitch. (...new to RVing) The wire from the camera was actually zip tied along the license plate light wire. That was convenient! I rewired the low camera to power from the license plate light wiring. Now I can turn the monitor on whenever the RV is running and by turning on the parking or head lights the cameras are powered. Now I just have to remember to drive looking out the windshield not looking at the rear view camera! Thanks again for all your comments and encouragement!

The previous owner put a wireless rear view camera system with the camera mounted on the bumper. They abandon in place the original high mounted camera. I would like to add a second camera, which the system supports. I pulled the old camera but can't get voltage across any pairs of the wires that went to the old camera. There is a white, red, yellow and blue wire in the cable going to the old camera, I hoped for power across the red and white. I had both the house and engine batteries on, the engine running and the tranny in reverse when I checked for voltage. Can anyone tell me where this cable goes and where it gets power from? I'm hoping to get power to it whenever the engine is running so I can use the additional camera for rear view. Thanks in advance for any help.