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LakeBob

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Everything posted by LakeBob

  1. In my case, the muliplex switch for the cameras is located middle left of the dash. I was able to easily access the switch, where the camera cable originates, from the dash cutout in front of the steering wheel. I ran the cable below the dash and up between the windshield and corner of the dash and then up inside the driver side plastic A pillar cover, up around blinds etc. I've ran a lot of wires in cars, boats, and houses, etc over the years and sometimes you need to get creative, study what paths you have, and figure out the best route. I removed the vent cover from the driver side most forward ac vent. I had determined that it was a straight shot front the end of the duct, above the front chassis frame and below the roof that would allow access to the front cap area. I was able to easily drill a 1/2" hole in the AC duct through some insulation board into the front cap area. I don't remember exactly; however I think a 6-inch spade bit did the trick. I was able to easily pull the cable into the duct area from this hole. At the rear of our coach there is a center mounted access cover located on the back wall of the top shelf in our rear closet. This allows access to rear of the camera and the connection for the cable. I simply ran the cable out of the vent and across the ceiling to the camera access panel and camera connection. Some images below. Access Panel on top shelf: Cable running from rear vent in closet to access panel: Below: Front Cap, behind our TV, which I mounted on a swivel arm mount that opens easily for access to this area! The black camera cable where it passes from the ac vent to the open front cap area, then drops down to the lower open area behind the front cabinet. The white and red wires are running along the inside of the front roof/cap for perspective. I believe these are the marker light wires.
  2. I had a badly etched windshield from years of exposure to a salty Florida environment. I used a professional glass polish, special glass pads and an orbital buffer. Lots of work, really improved the finish, however I never removed all the stains. Ended up with a new windshield after the repair shop broke ours during service work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UQQNZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UQIUKW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  3. I ran a new Sony cable through the AC duct to the rear camera. Not ideal, however only took about 30 minutes. See previous post. You can purchase pigtails to interface with updated cameras and monitors. This maintained the functionality of the 4 cameras in our Dynasty.
  4. My experience with REV has been positive, if they have the information they will try to provide.
  5. Have an assistant with a squirt bottle of water spray the tile and saw blade while cutting, will reduce the mess considerably! It appears you have subfloor damage, however you may be able to cut the piece and glue back in place for the short term. I've seen this before, had to replace the entire floor in our 1/2 bath...... Good Luck!
  6. Agree with all the above, gloves and old clothes, I strongly recommend a good caulk gun such as , Red Devil 3989 9" Extreme Duty Caulk Gun - Thrust Ratio 26:1,Black as the urethane is quite thick, and put the tube in the sun to warm up if possible.
  7. Yes, push outward. A little penetrating oil may help. Mine were fairly easy to break loose, however the rubber was compressed tightly into the opening. I did not have any sealing material applied around the inside of the light. The lights had been replaced once before so I’m guessing that made mine fairly easy to remove
  8. They just pop out. Disconnect the plug and push out. There are probably stuck in pretty well.
  9. I've installed 4 of these. I looked for a UL listed product. They have worked well with many different device types. ELEGRP USB Wall Outlet Receptacle with Dual 4.0 A USB Ports, 15 Amp Duplex Tamper Resistant Receptacle, Charging Power Outlet with USB Ports, Wall Plate Included, UL Listed (1 Pack, Glossy Black) - Amazon.com
  10. Thanks for posting your experience, this keeps the knowledge base strong!
  11. This issue was the result of bad power post wiring in a brand-new RV park. The electrical contractor was not the best. Several people had damage to the electric systems in their RV's due to errors made during power post installation. The park did compensate those damaged parties. Unfortunately, our friend was too nice and didn't push to get all the damage repaired. I believe there are many devices that will verify that the power your plugging into is good. I found this procedure that can be performed with a multimeter. Electric: 50 Amp Outlet Tester - All Things Foretravel
  12. Hmm, not sure where I got the Isusu info, think maybe the truck shop, perhaps I do have a Kabota. Yes, I've seen the small airbag mounts on my friends older Prevost. His generator is mounted mid coach in a well insulated box as described above. Very quiet installation. Thought about a retrofit as well, it would be a major project with the limited space in the box.
  13. I have a 10K Onan and when I purchased the coach it was quite loud, wasnt sure, thought it was more of a mechanical noise than exhaust. The generator is powered by a 3 cylinder ISUSU diesel engine. The engine is supported by 3 motor mounts. The generator box is mounted to the steel movable frame with 4 rubber bushings. I asked my local truck repair shop to check the generator during a major fluid and filter change. The exhaust was in good condition. What they did find was a small piece of 2 x 6 lumber jammed in between a broken motor mount and the engine! I had them replace all the mounts and the rubber bushings. It's like a new unit, much quieter, sounds similar to an outside central air unit. I would suggest you check all the motor mounts and generator mount bushings. I've also seen some older coaches, American Coach, Country Coach, that have a thick, 1/4"?, rubber mat attached to the forward upper generator mounting frame and laying over about 3/4 of the top of generator box. This looks like a simple solution to help dampen some of the mechanical vibration. This is on my list of repairs and updates when we return home in the spring.
  14. Here’s a pic of mine, behind TV , you can see the black corner of the fan assembly
  15. Agree, check all connectors closely. I had both headlight wiring harness plugs become very rusted and corroded. Replacing both solved several issues.
  16. I've purchased new Girard Door Awning Fabric from Stone Vos and am getting ready to replace. After many internet searches I found the following: Making a De Tensioning Tool and Changing fabric on a Girard Slide Topp – Tough Top Awnings These are the best instructions I've found to date. Should do the replacement in the next week or so, will document and update.
  17. Depowered the entire coach. Removed 50Amp, shut off batteries. Removed the panel next to the drivers captain chair and the driver arm rest instrument panel. Searched for the wires with the resistor circuit to no avial. Checked a few connections and put things back together. Put the meter on all the fuses in the drivers front outside CCM compartment, all good. Repowered the coach and............................the inside step lights and the grab handle lights are working! Apparently the reboot was all that it needed? I hate when I don't know what actually fixes an issue, however I will take it! Now, on to the Girard door awing fabric replacement, wish I could find some good instructions..........Unfortunately Stone Vos doesn't have an good instructions.
  18. In my Dynasty it’s mounted top center behind the TV, a real pain to access before I replaced the tV and installed a folding tV bracket. Now I can release the TV and swing off to one side still hard to get back in there, but possible.
  19. Thanks Frank, yes, that seems like the best approach to that panel. I’ve had the top driver side switch panel off before and with the two off I may be able to see and access the wiring below enough to find and check that resistor. I did find the connector listings in the wiring diagram file and traced the FJ-4 M wire at the CCM.
  20. Thanks Frank, hope you are feeling better. Yes, I see now that it was right in front of me...... I'll check in that area. Sure wish that I could remove the driver seat easily! Real pain to access that area/panel with the seat in place. Do you have any resource that will help me learn some of those detailed references on these diagrams? Thanks! Bob
  21. Trying to chase down an issue with my grab handle and step lights. They both quit working a few weeks ago. This is a Kongsberg coach, all other slave and master Eaton switches are working properly. Chasing the power circuit to the lights from the CCM I see a resistor in the circuit (FJ-4 M) located in the Front Cap. I'm thinking this may be the issue, perhaps a loose or broken connection or a bad resistor. Anyone ever locate this resistor connection? While trying to track down this resistor connection in the Front Cap wire loom drawing, I've come across several symbols and references I don't understand. My electrical diagram knowledge is decent, however I don't understand everything I'm seeing. I've been unable to find information on these symbols on any standard wiring diagram charts. I'm not sure if some of these are specific to Monaco or the automotive industry? Has anyone ever located a Monaco source document with a legend or information on their electrical drawing standards? I've attached a couple drawings with questions noted. I would be very grateful for any feedback on my questions. Thanks! Bob Front Cap Harness-Notes.pdf Grab Handle - Step Lights -Notes.pdf
  22. Check your door switch, they have to function properly before the slide will go in either direction. This has been a problem in the past.
  23. Thanks guys, great ideas. I’ll add this to the list for the summer. Im planning on remodeling the entry. Could use some style instead of the black stair treads I have now !
  24. I would be interested if anyone has built a replacement box. The plastic rim is breaking up on mine, still functional, however, would be nice to devise a replacement. I have a fairly well stocked shop, however I dont have a metal shear, brake or other equipment to properly form stainless sheets. Would love to make one from stainless. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks! Bob
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