Lee Smith
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I got locked out of my 2004 signature. I was stuck at a rest stop in Oregon on my way to Virginia. I called a locksmith who drilled out the center rivet and removed the whole lock attachment mechanism. He showed me how to use a pair of pliers to turn the lock open. It had nothing to do with the deadbolt. I used a small pair of vice grips until I got home and bought a replacement TriMark lock on eBay. When I removed the inner door panel to install the new lock, I found that a clip had come off to cause the problem. It has been suggested that I should drill a hole opposite the emergency exit window lever so that I can use a small rod from the outside in the case that I have another lock failure. I do hope some of this information helps. -
New! Coach Weighing at the Gathering!
Lee Smith replied to Scotty Hutto's topic in General Motorhome Discussion
Sign me up. Thank you very much, Lee Smith -
My manual does not list a cap. My local NAPA cannot find one. I was able to verify on the verulinks website that the 16 psi motorad is listed for the 2004 Signature. I am now comfortable with the 16 psi cap. Maybe the F3 was a substitute somewhere along the line. I do hope someone with a series 60 diesel can give me a final verification.
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I noticed that my 2004 Signature radiator cap is in need of replacement. I called REV Parts which has the ability to look up older parts. I got transferred to their Washington State office and placed an order for the part they looked up. It turns out that they do not have parts diagrams but work off a photo system. Interesting but apparently works. They sent me a Motorad 16 psi cap. The existing one on my radiator/coolant recovery tank has a "F3" stamp on it. According to my research, the "F3" cap is only 4 psi. I have heard mechanical cautions that it is very important to use the correct psi cap. If you have a Signature with a Detroit 60 engine, please look at your cap and let me know what is stamped on the cap. As a note, it does appear that this may be called a "coolant recovery cap" but the Signature with a Detroit 60 engine has a pressurized aluminum tank for the radiator fluid. Below are pictures of the Motorad 16 psi cap and the F3 4 psi cap. Thank you very much for your help. Lee Smith
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Okay, I get it now. I did my research. It is just a brass plug to seal off the end of the unused air-line. Due to the fact that there is a plastic line connected to the brass 90 I cannot heat it. I will soak it with Kroil oil and try to remove it tomorrow. I will adjust the fitting for more thread for the quick connect I will add. Thanks everyone.
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So that is just a plug. Should turn it counterclockwise? Do I leave it removed and then hook the quick connector up? I was thinking it was just a plug, but I am always afraid of breaking something and it comes out hard. I will likely need to put a wrench on the backside to keep the whole valve from turning. The amount of thread for the quick connector looks slim. I think I can adjust it for more thread. Thank you again.
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Just to prove that I have never worked on an air brake system: How do I remove the plug? When you look straight into the connection, there is a hex connection. Does that remove? Or are you talking about removing the whole connector? Thank you, Lee
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My coach has a factory supplied air brake connector at the rear (next to toad towbar connection). How do I test this connector for air flow? Here are pictures: Thank you, Lee Smith
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David, I can't thank you enough for this help and all you do for this wonderful forum. What could have been a very hard time for me as I start my retirement at 70 has turned into an extremely interesting full time hobby. Of course the time comes slow the hobby down and enjoy my very special Signature. See you in Tampa.
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I have heard that statement before on our forum. I hope he is okay.
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I purchased a 2004 Signature Conquest with the Detroit 60 last April. I ran across 4,600 posts by "Mike Canter" on the IRV2 Monaco Owner's forum section. Mike owns a 2004 Signature Conquest with the Detroit 60. He has done a lot of posts regarding the radiator tank coolant sensor leaking and wicking down inside the harness into the ECU unit. His ECU was ruined by this. He posted a picture of the brass sending unit that he used to replace the OEM plastic sending unit. See link below: 2004 Monaco Signature Jake Brake and Cruise Control Failure - Page 3 - iRV2 Forums My 2004 Signature Conquest has the same radiator, but the sending unit is on the front and looks to be plastic. My guess is that I should replace it with the brass sending unit as suggested by Mike. It certainly is a lot less expensive than replacing the ECU. See below for a picture of my sending unit and a link to the replacement part recommended by Mike (I located it on eBay): NEW NOS OEM Detroit Diesel Coolant Sensor 1/4" NPT P/N 23520380 Free Ship | eBay 1. Has anyone had the problem that Mike has described? 2. If so, what were the symptoms? 3. How did you fix the problem? My thanks to everyone in advance for your help. This is absolutely the best forum I have ever belonged to. I need all the help I can get, and I appreciate the advice very much. Happy New Year to All, Lee Smith
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Cummins Parts-Cyber Monday
Lee Smith replied to Lee Smith's topic in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics
Try this link: Home (cummins.com) I think you will need to open an account. As to your list, it is best if you have the Cummins Part Number as their website is not very helpful. Good Luck, Lee -
I just got an email for a Cummins cyber-Monday sale-today only:
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We are hoping to do so no later than next year. A lot of people like Florida and prices are up. I am sure we will find a way to manage. Going full time while looking for budget matching deals is clearly in the picture.
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That is a great idea for empty water bottles. Here in Virginia, we are scheduled for a week of long nighttime temps in the low 20's and not very high daytime. And I park outside.
