Tom Whitlow

Well, you can also just use a solid copper strip, bend 90 degrees, and drill out the mounting holes. Such as this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285122099126

There are lots of documents and discussions regarding both of these. There is a thorough write-up, with photos, by Tal G and Frank Mcelroy. Frank has also described how to add the 12V to 5V transformer. Another member included detailed photos of this process. I'm unskilled, unknowledgeable, and untrained; but following the detailed instructions provided by others on this site, I did it with no problems. The two breakers I used are : Mechanical Products 174-S0-060-2 Surface Mount Circuit Breaker, Manual Reset, 1/4" Stud 40A Mechanical Products 174-S0-080-2 Surface Mount Circuit Breaker, Manual Reset, 1/4" Stud, 60A To connect the new breakers to the House and Chassis battery terminals on the PCB, I used 60A (Chassis) and 40A (House) Littlefuse MEGA Fuses (bent to 90 degree angle) because there wasn't enough room on my configuration to squeeze in short large terminated battery cables. This made the install very easy. I found these at my local Advance Auto store. Any NAPA dealer should have them. I think now maybe I should have upped these fuses so that the resettable breakers would pop before the fuse. I carry a couple extra fuses in the coach now. The 12V to 5V transformer can be found on Amazon with a search. I used a 10A model. Note there's a 1A fuse on both of the power wires. These can also be found on Amazon. Good luck over there in the mother country. Chassis Multiplex.pdf

Same as you, we didn't know anything about the CCM system before our purchase. We have a 40' Bishop IV with a unique floor plan. We love our Dynasty. With Frank's mentoring and many others' experience, suggestions, and recommendations; I added circuit breakers to the battery cables in the FRB. And, I installed the 5V transformer to stop the weird problems we were having with the smartwheel. It's not very difficult. I think it took a couple hours, after I got all the required parts. You do need to make sure all the power to the house and chassis battery cables is shut off. The attached photos show the result of my install.

Just curious. Do you have a Chassis Control Module (CCM) in your FRB? It's in the bottom left corner of the attached photo.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-64044.html I use these from Harbor Freight. But I bought them a while back at less than half the current price.

Frank So you think that little metal flap on the top of the cylinder is a reed valve? And, if so, should I remove the current check valve in my system (see the second photo)? And, do you know where the air lines on the aux tank (back over the DS drive axle) might be going (third photo)? I thought the line on the right (with the red ring) was the line coming FROM the aux compressor. And the lines coming from the T on the bottom of the tank were going TO the leveling system and the main tank. Is it the other way around? I need to know what line to try to follow to find the PPV so I can replace it. So, many of the airlines just disappear into bundles of split loom. Maybe I should just shut off the aux compressor at my dash switch and quit worrying about it?

My dashboard leak was in the center along the bottom of the windshield. We had to replace the windshield gasket.

Frank: You're correct on the check valve on the airline coming from the aux compressor. I reviewed my photos and my drawing. See the attached photo. I made a mistake on my drawing. I drew the check valve on the wrong side of the T. It should've been drawn on the side coming FROM the aux compressor rather than on the side going to the pressure switch. My aux compressor doesn't have internal check valving. There's only that check valve in the attached photo coming from the T (outlet from compressor to the small air tank) that also has the pressure switch attached. I verified the new one was working before I installed it. I thought the check valve on the small air tank that I circled in one of the photos sent earlier was on the line going TO the main tank. It has a small red ring on the coupler. I have no idea where there would be another check valve between the small air tank and the main tank. I'll need to get under there again and try to follow the air lines - nearly impossible. Since it may only be a problem when the main tanks drop below 65 psi, I may just give up and let it be. Worst case is it could cause the aux compressor to run itself to death again. I can't identify the check valve with the red ring that's attached to the small tank. It's completely painted black. And, if the aux compressor starts running continuously, I always have the switch on the IP to shut it off. Maybe that's why it's there?

Sorry I haven’t finished this story. My coach has been in the shop getting new airbags and I couldn’t take photos. I did install the new aux compressor, and like magic, everything now works properly – I think. At least the Compressor switch on the IP now works again. See photo attached. And, of course, the noisy little aux compressor now works again. I also replaced the inlet air filter in the FRB since a new one came with the aux compressor kit. See attached photo. However, I do have one concern. When the main air tanks are very low, the new aux compressor seems to run endlessly, or at least, for a longer time than I was willing to wait. I wonder if this indicates that the little check valve that prevents the aux air tank (back over the DS drive axle) from trying to fill the main tanks when they drop below 65 psi? See attached photo. I asked my shop to get me a new check valve. They said they couldn’t find a replacement. I wonder if Frank might have a part number/source? As I said before, this system is a simple concept, but the implementation is somewhat convoluted/complicated. End of story, I hope.

Could you provide contact info? I'm just north in North Port. I gotta get that moldy, ugly stuff off.

Any contact info for Dazzling Details?

Same here. Standard on my 09.

To keep it simple - Take off the wires and apply 12v DC from any source to either 85 or 86 and a ground to the other. (I just used jumpers to the batt pos and neg terminals.) Listen and feel the relay as you touch the 12V wire. If it's working, you should hear or feel it click.

Yeah, good suggestion on raising the pressure switch as that line is also the drain line. I already received the new pressure switch via Amazon. The new Aux compressor is due in tomorrow. It comes with new fittings and a new check valve.

Is there anything I also should check or just replace back on the aux tank that's over the drive axle?