Tom Whitlow

Well, you can also just use a solid copper strip, bend 90 degrees, and drill out the mounting holes. Such as this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285122099126

There are lots of documents and discussions regarding both of these. There is a thorough write-up, with photos, by Tal G and Frank Mcelroy. Frank has also described how to add the 12V to 5V transformer. Another member included detailed photos of this process. I'm unskilled, unknowledgeable, and untrained; but following the detailed instructions provided by others on this site, I did it with no problems. The two breakers I used are : Mechanical Products 174-S0-060-2 Surface Mount Circuit Breaker, Manual Reset, 1/4" Stud 40A Mechanical Products 174-S0-080-2 Surface Mount Circuit Breaker, Manual Reset, 1/4" Stud, 60A To connect the new breakers to the House and Chassis battery terminals on the PCB, I used 60A (Chassis) and 40A (House) Littlefuse MEGA Fuses (bent to 90 degree angle) because there wasn't enough room on my configuration to squeeze in short large terminated battery cables. This made the install very easy. I found these at my local Advance Auto store. Any NAPA dealer should have them. I think now maybe I should have upped these fuses so that the resettable breakers would pop before the fuse. I carry a couple extra fuses in the coach now. The 12V to 5V transformer can be found on Amazon with a search. I used a 10A model. Note there's a 1A fuse on both of the power wires. These can also be found on Amazon. Good luck over there in the mother country. Chassis Multiplex.pdf

Same as you, we didn't know anything about the CCM system before our purchase. We have a 40' Bishop IV with a unique floor plan. We love our Dynasty. With Frank's mentoring and many others' experience, suggestions, and recommendations; I added circuit breakers to the battery cables in the FRB. And, I installed the 5V transformer to stop the weird problems we were having with the smartwheel. It's not very difficult. I think it took a couple hours, after I got all the required parts. You do need to make sure all the power to the house and chassis battery cables is shut off. The attached photos show the result of my install.

Just curious. Do you have a Chassis Control Module (CCM) in your FRB? It's in the bottom left corner of the attached photo.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-64044.html I use these from Harbor Freight. But I bought them a while back at less than half the current price.

Frank So you think that little metal flap on the top of the cylinder is a reed valve? And, if so, should I remove the current check valve in my system (see the second photo)? And, do you know where the air lines on the aux tank (back over the DS drive axle) might be going (third photo)? I thought the line on the right (with the red ring) was the line coming FROM the aux compressor. And the lines coming from the T on the bottom of the tank were going TO the leveling system and the main tank. Is it the other way around? I need to know what line to try to follow to find the PPV so I can replace it. So, many of the airlines just disappear into bundles of split loom. Maybe I should just shut off the aux compressor at my dash switch and quit worrying about it?

My dashboard leak was in the center along the bottom of the windshield. We had to replace the windshield gasket.

Frank: You're correct on the check valve on the airline coming from the aux compressor. I reviewed my photos and my drawing. See the attached photo. I made a mistake on my drawing. I drew the check valve on the wrong side of the T. It should've been drawn on the side coming FROM the aux compressor rather than on the side going to the pressure switch. My aux compressor doesn't have internal check valving. There's only that check valve in the attached photo coming from the T (outlet from compressor to the small air tank) that also has the pressure switch attached. I verified the new one was working before I installed it. I thought the check valve on the small air tank that I circled in one of the photos sent earlier was on the line going TO the main tank. It has a small red ring on the coupler. I have no idea where there would be another check valve between the small air tank and the main tank. I'll need to get under there again and try to follow the air lines - nearly impossible. Since it may only be a problem when the main tanks drop below 65 psi, I may just give up and let it be. Worst case is it could cause the aux compressor to run itself to death again. I can't identify the check valve with the red ring that's attached to the small tank. It's completely painted black. And, if the aux compressor starts running continuously, I always have the switch on the IP to shut it off. Maybe that's why it's there?

Sorry I haven’t finished this story. My coach has been in the shop getting new airbags and I couldn’t take photos. I did install the new aux compressor, and like magic, everything now works properly – I think. At least the Compressor switch on the IP now works again. See photo attached. And, of course, the noisy little aux compressor now works again. I also replaced the inlet air filter in the FRB since a new one came with the aux compressor kit. See attached photo. However, I do have one concern. When the main air tanks are very low, the new aux compressor seems to run endlessly, or at least, for a longer time than I was willing to wait. I wonder if this indicates that the little check valve that prevents the aux air tank (back over the DS drive axle) from trying to fill the main tanks when they drop below 65 psi? See attached photo. I asked my shop to get me a new check valve. They said they couldn’t find a replacement. I wonder if Frank might have a part number/source? As I said before, this system is a simple concept, but the implementation is somewhat convoluted/complicated. End of story, I hope.

Could you provide contact info? I'm just north in North Port. I gotta get that moldy, ugly stuff off.

Any contact info for Dazzling Details?

Same here. Standard on my 09.

To keep it simple - Take off the wires and apply 12v DC from any source to either 85 or 86 and a ground to the other. (I just used jumpers to the batt pos and neg terminals.) Listen and feel the relay as you touch the 12V wire. If it's working, you should hear or feel it click.

Yeah, good suggestion on raising the pressure switch as that line is also the drain line. I already received the new pressure switch via Amazon. The new Aux compressor is due in tomorrow. It comes with new fittings and a new check valve.

Is there anything I also should check or just replace back on the aux tank that's over the drive axle?

I haven’t given up. I’ve been working on this little nightmare aux compressor since my last post. Actually, I prepared a previous progress report but the system lost it before I posted it. This problem began when we noticed that the aux compressor switch on the dash (aftermarket addition by the previous owner?) no longer had the blue lights. The air leveling system seemed to be working fine even without the switch on. But, then my wife said, “I don’t ever hear that aux pump up front come on anymore.” So, I followed some of the wires from the switch down to a relay in the FRB. I took the relay out and bench-tested it. It’s good – no problem there. I checked the breaker and the fuse – all good. I then took the dash switch out and bench-tested it. Both LEDs light up. It’s a five-tab rocker switch and it seems to be in working order. I supported the frame with 4X4s and crawled under. I located the aux compressor attached to the DS steer axle. See photo 150. I then located the aux compressor tank above the DS drive axle. See photo 211. (Thanks to Frank for telling me where to look) I tried to draw a sketch of what I think the wiring and plumbing are as far as I could see. Sorry for the quality, there’s just too much and I’m not good at that. See attachment. Battery cables, a breaker, a fuse, a relay, a 5-tab switch, a Valid Power Gear control panel, an aux tank, an air filter line, an air line going to the leveling system, check valves, Ts, a pressure switch, and an aux compressor. What a mess. Some wires go into split looms and disappear into the top of the FRB. Some can’t be easily traced. So, I attached jumper wires to the black and red wires going into the aux compressor. When I touched them to the pos and neg connections in the FRB, I hear one quick buzz and click from the aux compressor. Hmm. So, I put a jumper across the green and black wires going to the pressure switch hoping to eliminate it from the fray. Back to the batt pos & neg. Nada, nothing. So, it's not the pressure switch, relay, dash switch, etc? Ok, I pulled the aux compressor air lines and cut the wires. There were a few drops of water in the outbound air line. I’ve never seen any water when opening the rear or front drain lines. BTW, kinda interesting that the input air line goes to a round disk-like filter in the FRB right beside where the batt terminals connect to the big PCB. Perhaps to keep it clean while also creating some air flow very near the PCB batt terminals? But, that’s also a long way to be sucking the needed air? So, I pulled the aux compressor out and bench-tested it. See photo 225. Dead as a door nail! The motor is gone. My wife thinks that the pressure switch went bad and run it to death. We did have a problem with it running longer times – back when it was working. I did take the head off just to see how dirty it was and since there’s rust in there, I suspect there must’ve been some water sometime. See photo 226 No reed switch unless it could be inside the output air nozzle/handle. I ordered a new pump from eBay - $277, and a new pressure switch from Amazon. Coulda been worse. Concept is simple, implementation not so much. I’m sticking with the original components to keep it simple and not mess with amps and/or wire sizes. Hopefully, I can close this out in a few days - if my dash switch starts lighting up blue again. Hand Drawn Wiring & Plumbing Sketch.pdf The jpg lost the resolution when converted from pdf. Here's the pdf version. I hope it's a little clearer. Hand Drawn Wiring & Plumbing Sketch 2.pdf

Here's some photos. 1. Wiring coming from back of the switch. 2. Wiring going into .5" split loom which goes down into FRB. 3. This is the .5" split loom in the FRB coming from above. Note green, black, and red wires. 4. I think the red wire goes into a 5A fuse and then to a relay. 5. From the relay wiring goes into some type15A breaker. The red wire coming into the breaker comes from the large in bound house battery cable terminal on the FRB left wall. 6. From the breaker wiring goes back to a small bundle meeting the wiring coming down in the .5" split loom. Some of the wiring then goes into a .375" split loom and goes back up I assume this goes to the valid system, but don't know for sure. I would like to test the switch somehow to determine if the light still works. And, I would like to test whatever wiring goes to the air leveling compressor to see if it still works. Anything else I could/should test? If I determine it's not working, maybe I need to take the compressor out and see if it can be repaired? Since the air leveling is working fine, is it even worth doing?

Well, we thought this switch controlled the air leveling system aux compressor. We haven't driven it in more than a year due to my wife's surgery and PT (she had a brain tumor removed). But, I was moving it to our barn the other day, and when I air leveled, the switch didn't seem to be working, Previously, we would switch this on and it would have a blue light indicating it was on. We thought this switch controlled the air leveling compressor. Perhaps the seller told us this, don't remember now. We can't find any mention of it in our Operator Manual or any of the accessories documents. If it doesn't control the air leveling compressor, do you know what it does control? How should we try to diagnose why it no longer seems to switch on? Maybe it's just the light that's out? Air leveling appears to be working normally.

I had the same problem in the same place on my 96 HR Endeavor. My leak came from the side of the windshield gasket. I pulled up the carpet and cleaned it. I bleached, scraped, brushed, etc all the mold out. I know what you mean about the fungus plants that were growing in the carpet - gross. I put a quarter-inch steel plate back under the carpet. I also had to clean all the rust off my propane tank and frame. I repainted that area with Rust Reformer spray paint and put a top coat of silver on the propane tank. It was a small nightmare project. Just a little water but it was sneaking in and under things. By the time I discovered it, it was a big problem. Of course, I had to have the windshield resealed by an auto glass company. And then there was the slide seal leaking at the top where you couldn't see it. That ran down and snuck under the wood plank floor. That's another story. We now have a barn big enough to store our coach. Water can be evil.

My air leveling system aux air compressor switch on my instrument panel no longer lights up (blue?). Where is the fuse for this thing? And, if its the light in the switch, how do I replace it?

I bought a set (8) of these 2 years ago. At that time that's all that was available in my area (Sarasota). They ride and steer well. No problems, other than the price.

Back in the old days, my 96 HR Endeavor diesel had a fully mounted spare located in the center underneath. There was a crank that accessed a square pin thru an opening in the center baggage compartment to let it down. Never had a flat, so never used it in the 20+ years we drove that coach. Of course, there's no such thing on our 09 Dynasty. Don't miss it. I plan to use my iPhone to fix any future flats.

Our 09 40' Dynasty has a tag and an ISM 500 - no def. Great coach - love it. Window Sticker.pdf

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075CK2Y5Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On my 09 Dynasty I had to replace the four house batteries and the Big Boy to get the gen to start without shore power, even with the engine running and boost used.