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Specialk

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Everything posted by Specialk

  1. I’ve been running these same tires for 3 years now without a problem. I have not experienced this negative fuel mileage as stated in the post.
  2. Thanks for the input. Have considered that, and most likely will travel this route.
  3. That’s good Information and I appreciate you sharing this. I will continue to look for alternatives, or simply do the dreaded trek thru Denver on I-25.
  4. Has anyone traveled Highway 71 in Colorado lately? More specifically from Rocky Ford to Limon? We are thinking about traveling this route in the next week to avoid the Colorado Springs / Denver traffic. Curious as to road conditions and traffic.
  5. I would agree the Garmin RV has been a true co-pilot at times
  6. We just replaced two older model dometic units with the High Capacity (15,000) btu heat pumps. Both of these require the new dometic thermostat to operate as these were not compatable with our CCC 5 button thermostat. You can purchase a new control board that is compatible with the 5 button, but good luck on finding them. If both of the units you are replacing are controlled by one thermostat, then the new thermostat will work perfectly.
  7. There are two considerations to account for. The first is the 100 amp circuit protection that voltage originates from, and the next is the secondary power at the RV load panel. The underground wire per NEC code should be rated to handle the 100 amp circuit that you mention is the origination of power. This insures that the wire does not become the weak link if there should become a fault between the RV panel and the circuit breaker/ disconnect. The other consideration is the distance of 100 feet. Yes the RV panel is essentially providing two independent 120 volt circuits of 50 amps per leg( or 240 volt if measured phase to phase) and the 4 wire configuration ( line1, line2, neutral, ground) is necessary for the RV configuration. The other issue is Voltage drop to not exceed 3%. If it does at the distance you mention, you may have some lower voltage when you push the amps higher when using. Keeping this drop/resistance down, keeps the wire cooler, and one reason why direct burial is rated higher even though it is aluminum as the earth will dissipate heat, whereas conduit essentially insulates it. However you will have to use conduit for your risers above earth at both ends. The #4 copper is also rated as such, but I think you will find that the aluminum will be less in price especially for a 4 wire run. You will also need to run the copper in conduit as it’s not rated for direct burial. Which also will increase price. If you are concerned with earth cover as an issue, so that you don’t come in contact with it, then bury the direct cable deeper 3-4 ft. You have to dig a ditch regardless, going deeper would still be less cost than copper and conduit. That’s my two cents worth. Regards
  8. If using direct burial cable, 2-2-2-4 aluminum, it will provide service at the 100 ft. The minimum earth cover per code is 24” unless buried under concrete, then can be 18”. The wire if buried, (not in conduit) is rated for 125 amp. Therefore the wire is compliant with 100 amp circuit that you mentioned already exists. However with a 100 ft run the voltage drop would be to great if you are in fact using all 100 amps of circuit? Assuming you are using for the RV and likely not greater than 50 amp per circuit, (using only one of the 30/50 amp connections, not both simultaneously) then this wire and burying depth is code and will perform fine. The maximum amps continuous ( with considerations to voltage drop) for this feed is slightly above 60 amps per line (2 lines), therefore you could still use approximately 1/2 of the 20 amp circuit for ancillary devices while on a 100% 50 amp load at RV, which is highly unlikely for an extended period of time. The information above is based on the assumptions you noted as well the ones I’ve noted. If you have additional information for how you to plan to use this, feel free to share. Kevin
  9. As stated in previous responses, the sensors can accumulate “debris” or foreign material that will impact their operational accuracy. May want to try using Caravan RV tank sensor cleaner? I have used this and great results. Still have original sensor’s on my Aladdin. Also once you get the sensor cleaned, I maintain my tank sensors with the Caravan Full timers holding tank treatment. these can be purchased via Amazon.
  10. I believe Fleetguard “FS19592” is a direct replacement for this filter. Although, as others have mentioned you should be able to cross to several other manufacturers at the parts store. I currently use a Baldwin filter for this water separator filter, and get along fine.
  11. Auto fuel most often has a percentage of Bio-Diesel included in the blend, which could be cheaper. Whereas #2 diesel is non bio blended. just returned from trip that included the I40 corridor you mentioned and yes temps were hot, but manageable. Grade is up and down until the Texas line, but not bad Kevin
  12. Happy Trails Jim. may need to reach out occasionally for information and advise on my 07 Signature Noble III
  13. SPN 111 is coolant level and the FMI #1 is the mode which is critical. Cannot find the other two as hard faults? In essence this code is saying that the data is valid and coolant level is low to the point of critical( at least from a sensor point of view). Should be a RED indicator lamp illuminated? SPN# means “Suspect Parameter Number” FMI# means “Fault Mode Identifier” Hope this helps
  14. Thank You Jim, have printed this and into my folders
  15. Jim, where could I find or locate the wiring diagram for the Signature? I am also an owner of a 2007 Signature Noble III with ISX600
  16. We currently use the Brake Buddy Select towing our Ford Ranger. It is portable and with the electronic 4WD neutral engagement, the battery charging aspect is nice or at least peace of mind knowing that the electronics will not discharge the battery.
  17. My suggestion would be to rule out the electrical issue at the a/c clutch first. From the picture it appears that the compressor clutch is grounded at the Phillips screw terminal and therefore the wire that has the butt terminal splice would be your “DC” source for power. Take the wire loose from this butt connection and check to see if you have power there when you cycle the A/C. If not, I would leave the wire disconnected and then take a known good 12volt source and with the engine “NOT” running apply 12volt momentarily to the clutch wire. If it engages, then begin tracing out the wire to the source. Since you have already added Freon, (It doesn’t take much Freon pressure to engage the clutch),I would not add additional Freon until you can cycle clutch. Low Freon (not no Freon) will simply cycle on/off quickly, due to low pressure developing quickly when clutch engages. Once clutch engages then the gauges will become useful to determine the status charge. Hope this helps
  18. Thanks for update. This is valuable information to me. How long did this take you?
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