Gsmentko

The inverter sounds good. Just ensure the total watts is enough for all your electrical needs... Fridges don't take much... Mine is a model LFTR1835VFO, Manufactured in January of 2021 with the optional ice maker. It's only 2 amps at 115 Volt max draw so that is only 230 watts. It also says defrosting power is 178 Watts. Greg

I replaced my Gas/Electric fridge a few years back when the old one died.... A $1,100 residential fridge sounded a lot better than a $6,000 new gas/electric. Also, the tech that helped me recommended against the Japanize brands and any fancy electronics. I installed a Frigidaire that just fit. Brought it in through the drivers side window and had to reseal it (He helped with that). My problem was my inverter was not a sinewave inverter and the fridge would not work with the step wave inverter. So, it didn't work once I unplugged from shore power, so I did two things.... 1) bought a UPS that could power the fridge for about 4 to 6 hours based on wattage (probably not needed after I installed the new full sinewave inverter, but I feel better). 2) Then I bought a new Magnum energy full sinewave Inverter, replacing the old one. So, now all my electronics run great on the inverter. I lost a few clocks, electric toothbrushes, and a few other small electronics trying to run them on the original step wave inverter. My 2 cents of experience, Greg

Yes, I have to keep the 120 Volt water heater toggle ON for hot water. I thought I lost that when I bypassed the relay on the EMS board. But, I didn't. So, really I still have the exact same functionality for the 120 Volt water heater switch on the control panel. All I lost was the the ability to automatically shed the HWH if I don't have enough Amps. I shouldn't have that problem since I only turn it on while on 50 Amp service. I thought I was going to have to flip the Circuit breaker on/off every time I wanted electric hot water, but I don't. Greg

Update on my EMS board problem. I found the correct parts and they are on order and I am planning on taking the board out and replacing the relay... Eventually... So, since I'm bypassing the bad relay on the EMS board (direct from Circuit breaker to the outlet) I turned the 120v water heater switch off and the next day I had no hot water. I checked the 120v outlet behind the heater and it was live at 120v. Hmmm.... So, I'm guessing the 120v Switch turns off/on some component in the hot water heater itself. The EMS board is only for shedding and not controlled by the 120v water heater switch. Not how I thought it worked, but seems to be that way. Just passing this on, but I could of been the only one thinking wrong. Greg

Thanks, And that is what I do now. I only turn on 120v water heater when I'm on 50A. Sometimes I forget and see the 120v light on and turn it off when I see it later in the day after I break camp that morning. I'm just unsure what would happen and my inverter is running (as I installed a residential fridge after my gas/electric died... and a full sign wave inverter!). Could I overload something before I remember to shut off the 120v WH. Im thinking it is low risk. Greg

Thanks Tom, Yes, I have the manual and going through it. I do have the AC connected back to Relay #3. Original wiring configuration. Schematic or Prints for my 2007 Knight 38pdq? Ha, Ha... Asked Monaco for them a few times and they are hands-off before the bankruptcy and reorganization. I downloaded quite a few from this group of close RVs in year or model but they are not helping much for past problems. I'm not sure one for mine with be 100% accurate... For example in my rear fuse panel I blew a 15amp fuse and took one out of one labeled "OPEN" to fix the blown fuse (assuming the OPEN ones are like spares). A day later I noticed some lights weren't working. So, after buying a new pack of fuses, and put it in the OPEN fuse that light worked again. I understand what you are saying about buying a new relay and wire that one and keep it separate. bypassing the EMS board for #4 Circuit. Yes, I will need some help to understand how to wire the signaling to it, so it will function as designed for both the on/off toggle on the control panel as well as for the EMS shedding. That will be hundreds of dollars cheaper than a board. I'd like to work through that. My email is: hsjasg@hotmail.com Please send me a quick message and we can talk. Thanks, Greg

Tom, Thank you very much. I did the reset process (unplugged, turned off sales switch, turned off inverter on smart panel, then took 3 pigtails apart and the fuse). Waited 45 minutes and put it back together an no win. Started live checking the printed circuit board and found CB4 had power in, but Rly4 had no power out. All the others did. So I swapped Rly3 and Rly4. Then tested the power outlet behind the water heater and it was hot 124V! Yeah. I then put them back to original wiring. I then went to my control panel and took it apart and checked continuity on the 120V heater switch and found it tested out fine (It does light up when on too). I also jumped the 12v wire to the out 12v and it didn't make any difference on the output of Rly4. So, looks like a bad relay. So, Now, what are my options? It is a Intellitec distribution panel model 750. I can only think of these two options... 1) See if I can buy a new printed circuit board? Haven't found the exact one yet, but looking to be around $300 - $400. The bottom picture below says they don't sell the model 750 and I would have to change to Model 900. Does that mean I would have to buy all 4 items listed below? 2) Bypass the relay and go direct from the 20A circuit breaker? Then, turn the circuit breaker off when I don't want electric hot water in the main panel instead of at the control center? Anything wrong with that? It really just turns that outlet off or on remotely like the salesman switch, right? Thanks, Greg

On my 2007 Knight PDQ my toggle for 120 v hot water heating is on, but there is no power to the outlet the hot water heater plugs into. I took apart my main circuit breaker panel and looked behind it and no relays. I opened the hot water heater compartment and the romax goes through the wall with no relay in there either. I can't find the relay the 12v Switch operates for 120v to get to the hot water heater outlet. Does anyone have any idea where that relay is? My Circuit panel is in the back bedroom closet on the drivers side. I am heating my hot water with propane and want to switch back to AC powered 120v.

Mine does it occasionally due to low Hydraulic oil in the tank above the pump. I have a slow leak and I have to fill it up once a year. Check the level, there is a fill line. Also double check your jacks are completely retracted. Mine start when the RV rocks sideways in parking lots driving slow or going up or down steep hills... I guess the sensor detects low fluid. Greg

My Rock guard on my 07 is behind my tailpipe... Maybe look at moving yours farther back? Or, exhaust pipe forward?

Just to update... I found the problem/fuse today. Under the driver's seat there is an outside compartment with chassis fuses. I decided to check all 71 fuses. Under the section heading "Switched House" which includes drivers power seat, storage lights, Map Light, etc... I found fuse #50 PASS S/O PWR. It is a 15 amp fuse that was blown. Replaced it and that fixed it. I guess it makes sense in hind sight. It is the passenger side slide where the galley is. The main house fuse panel in the back bedroom labeled Galley has nothing to do with the Galley lights.

Page 3 of 31 of this PDF has the drawing of the house fuse panel. It shows power coming into it, but not going out to the P423 plug. 2006 Monarch wire diagrams.pdf

I was replacing the light above the sink in my 2007 Knight and all of a sudden the power went out to the two sets of lights in this slide. I figured I blew a fuse. Checked the interior house fuse panel (jpeg attached) and found no problems. It is fuse10 "Galley Lights 14 Gage red/blk wire. Then I started tracing the power out. behind the fuse panel the blk/red wire is red only (like someone painted the first few inches of it. I verified that is the same wire by piercing it with a needle point and continuity testing back to fuse 10. Then under my galley sink I found the disconnect and pulled it apart and traced the wire from the 12 connection plug with continuity checking to the lights. The wire coming in is a 10 Gage red wire (not what left the fuse panel). Where is the bus (or junction box) that switched it to 10 Gage. When I try continuity checking back to fuse 10, I get nothing. I traced it back to behind my hot water tank where it goes through a wall and then can't find the harness again. So, in summary, 12 volts comes out of fuse 10 and goes out on a 14 gage red wire. Under the sink there is a 10 gage red wire with no power and no continuity back to the fuse panel. Anyone have an idea of where the switch is? Let me know what other info is needed. I downloaded a bunch of drawings from this site and it does have a lot of info. Looking at the drawing attached, I'm guessing that 4 prong plug that goes to the bath, galley, cosmetic and read overhead is circuit/wiring harness P423? (each of the 6 plug-ins have a number by them) Does anyone have visibility to that wiring harness? Thanks, Greg