anand.s

Yes - Driver side bedroom (electric) where the headboard is.

I does have the pinch weld and the bulb seal seems to go all the way around but if I can’t get it on I might just cut it out and convert to the wiper seal 😃 Will try 10 inches out, did try several positions but might be helpful with a helper who can find the high point outside. We revert back when I can. Now concerned about the guardian plates. Not going to be able to get them in time for a long summer trip, might try to fabricate a replica for the corners on this slide until I can get the guardian plates delivered and do the rest while I’m at it.

Thanks for the note on the rot @Jeff. I noticed that in the picture myself. Guardian plates are on my list. Just trying to make it through the summer right now 😉

Hi all - I have a seal that has come off or may never have been on my slide properly and after trying and trying can’t get it to seat on the pinch weld. The YouTube videos make it seem easy. Any tool or trick to figure this out? Any source for new seals? Anand

Thanks for the tips here - Viega is making one with the same mount points for $185 as Scott C noted. Solves my problem hopefully.

Good to know about low cost custom options. Will call them tomorrow.

They are also reversed! Hot is on the opposite side of the 14 port 🤔

They look like 1/2” out. The input seems standard. There is a 12 port available that is 6 cold 6 hot, I could just combine two lines. Not sure what to to do with the drain, just keep it capped I’d think. Going to try to replace the spindle valves first. Let’s see how that goes.

Does anyone have a similar experience with the Intellitec coaches? I have a 2007 Marquis with exactly the same symptoms. Clockspring seems fine, I’ve changed the SM211 but periodically the smart wheel stops working and wipers/cruise die. Can often get it to restart by unplugging the connectors to the VIP box and plugging back in but does not last. Seems like a similar problem. Anand

Hi all - I have my DC-DC (renogy equiv) in the top tray of my battery compartment with 3-SLA batteries in the lower one. I just did the lithium upgrade and have no other place to put the DC-DC setup. The ignition conversation has me rightly spooked. The box does vent with the holes that wires come through in the top rear, but I’m concerned. The simpler solution for me may be to replace the starting batteries with AGM. They are coming to time anyhow. Would that still pose venting problems? 2007 Beaver Marquis. Thanks! Anand

Dear all Thank you for all the help here. Reporting back on my solution (following Bob’s suggestion). I ended up pulling the two pins that go to the Big Boy from J1 on the BCC PCB, gave 1 12V fused house (can pull the fuse to disable) and the other the switched “boost” ground. Keeps everything intact, allows for the other functions of the BCC PCB to work, keeps the boost function, and makes the DC-DC + AMP-L-START serve my bi-directional charging needs. Attached a pic. @vito.a - the C15 is fabulous, but thirsty. So is the Marquis, but I come from a Thor Palazzo - which was dependable through 27 national parks - but not even close to comparable. I got lucky in finding it, bought it last year and have put 15k miles on it, currently at 105k. Trying to get to Alaska from the east coast this summer with my young kids. The Lithium might pay for itself in 2022 if it reduces my use of diesel 🙂 Anand

Thanks Rick - I suppose I could just hold the boost for 30 seconds and get a surface charge to the Chassis rather than starting off the Lithium. I do have 1200AH and a 300A BMS but don't trust the cheap batteries. I've never used the boost switch to be fair, just trying to keep it intact in case I sell and want to revert to SLA or AGM. Anand

Vito - Thank you for the deep insights here and visibility on others' experiences, I am grateful. I've thought about the ML-ACR and saw that post. Seems like it is unnecessary now that I'm only looking for boost capability, thought the ML-ACR seems like a great improvement to the current setup. I, too, hope this works well for me. Unfortunately, I have the Leece-Neville 200A alternator despite the C-15 motor 😞 Will keep you all posted

@Bob Blackmon Thanks for this - elegant solution. On the 2007 the boost is P4 on J2, but this solves my problem. 12V House (fused) to one side of the Big Boy, and remove P4 and connect it to the other. Maintains the board, the boost switch, and disables the BIRD closing the Big Boy. Will report back when I try it later this week. Thanks Anand

Thanks guys - I have an LiBIM but I think you also have to bypass the BIRD-BCC which is more of a mess than I'd like to do and I'd lose other functions. Hence the DC-DC/AMP-L-START. Mark, have you left the BIRD and Big Boy operational as-is without issue? My setup works a lot like yours but I was under the impression that the solenoid will still engage which connects the two banks outside of the two DC-DCs. Thanks for the lead to Chris at M&M - will try to call them tomorrow. Anand

Mark, You may have just solved my problem, and I might owe you a beverage of your choice! If I hear your correctly, the DC-DC install does not require me to disable the BIRD. BIRD combines battery banks, in the case of providing alternator charge to house, when the voltage of the chassis batts are high enough and the house batteries are low - thereby creating a situation where Lithium would draw more current than the alternator should provide in its duty cycle (because Lithium does not naturally limit charging current, and at 1200AH would be very hungry). SO, this gets me thinking: If the DC-DC is on, the BIRD would never find the need to engage because a limited current pathway is providing charge (and thereby voltage level that is above the threshold for the BIRD to close the Big Boy)? Do I not need to disable the Big Boy at all with a DC-DC scenario? I've installed a 60A DC-DC from chassis > house, and using an AMP-L-START as a 15A DC-DC from House to Chassis (disabled with ignition on) - this way solar and shore also trickle charge the chassis (the BIRD should not engage) Thanks! Anand

Thanks for the comments here, not sure I can remove the BIRD as it is part of the circuit board motley in the rear run box, and the BIRD-BCC board in the 2007 + years also controls the salesman switch.

Hi All - Long time lurker but first post here on the advice of a fellow member on the Beaver Ambassador Club forum. I'm in the midst of a Lithium upgrades on a 2007 Beaver Marquis that has the Bird-BCC board; I'm trying to figure out if there is a hack to save the Boost function / keep the Big Boy connected and disable the functions that close the solenoid. One idea was to disconnect pin 2 (red wire) and pin 3 (white/orange) from the 8pin Molex (House 12v and 12v Switched ignition) but the engine doesn't start after doing so. It seems the board may get its power from the red wire. I'm not sure what would happen if I removed only switched ignition and whether a threshold voltage reading on the house batteries would still close the solenoid. I'm told there are folks on this form that likely understand the BIRD-BCC better than anyone else on the planet, was hoping to get some sage advice. I still need to disable the Big Boy no matter what - so best way to do that is also appreciated (current plan is to pull the trigger wires), not sure if I can just pull the 7.5 BIRD fuse on the board. I'm setting up an alternative charging mechanism - an ignition triggered 60A DC-DC that charges the House bank (1200AH of LifePO4) combined with an ignition-disabled AMP-L-START to ensure charging of Chassis from House on shore and solar. Thanks in advance for any advice, and generally for the wealth of information in this community. Hope to be as useful to others as so many of you have been to me. Best, Anand