Ali-026

Thank you everyone. It must have been my lucky day as I solved the mystery after opening the actuator. Ordered a new one from Amazon. I will update the group *hopefully with successful results in a few days: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D8VIW5W

Thanks. It seems like Monaco used the same unit numbers for H.R models as well. I wish there were public records of how many Camelots, Scepters, etc were built each year.

Thank you for all your messages. I do have a set of gauges, and connected them to the ports in the firewall area. I see the following pressures. Is it safe to assume these are pretty low?

OK, I've separated the actuator from the valve body (only 3 screws to remove). First I've tested the valve by manually turning it left and right, it was not stuck and working properly. Then I've tested the actuator by turning heater control cold to hot, then back a few times while monitoring the actuator, it was working first but then went out of range. I think the actuator is acting up, trying to go out of range and causing the clicks in the mechanism. I am going to open it up to see if I can fix it: Snowflakes indeed. My valve/actuator looks different, but it uses the same dash controls. Our 2008 Camelot unit number is 713072 and it was manufactured in December 2007. If you don't mind sharing, what is the number difference between your 2008 Camelot and ours?

Thank you, and agreed. I did clean the area well and will try to spot the leak. Good point, I was testing dash AC heating today, I set the temp to cold and Max AC, although the heater water shutoff valve was not fully closing, I did not notice any cold(er) air coming from dash vents. I checked the compressor on the engine as well, but could not tell if the clutch was engaging. Does this part on the compressor circled in red supposed to spin with A/C or Max A/C on? I've tried on and off but it was not spinning.

Thank you Tom Wallis and Tom Cherry, I appreciate your assistance. I went to the RV today, and tested a few things. First I confirmed the clicking was definitely coming from the device marked in yellow. It is a Dorman heater water shutoff valve actuator (604-6105). I think the valve itself is underneath, and this thing just opens and closes the valve. I am thinking may be I should separate the actuator from the valve and then turn the valve manually hoping it will dislodge what ever preventing the valve to close. I've tried cycling temp control and AC, and clicking is most obvious at full cold position, stops around midway and no clicking when temp setting is hot. I will see if I can figure out how to separate the actuator from the valve and update the group on my progress.

Hello Everyone I have this clicking noise coming from the dash/firewall area when ignition is on and dash air is not in the OFF position. First I thought dash air fan was touching something but noticed the clicking does not change with fan speed. I listened to it from the firewall side and it seems to be coming from the device marked in yellow. Any suggestions on the cause and how to fix it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

If this was our coach, I would be measuring chassis battery voltage while someone is turning the ignition. If chassis battery is confirmed good, then I would tap on the starter while someone turning the ignition. You should see sparks coming from the starter if chassis battery is good, but starter is bad.

Hi Dave, were you able to fix the air dump switch issue. Just to clarify, you are using the Air Dump switch on dash correct? I have the same issue. The switch on dash does not work while the air dump on Valid air leveling panel works. I wonder why Monaco put the switch on dash since that functionality exists on the Air Leveling panel. I thought may be the dash switch was to dump air from the tanks? Wait a minute, I found this in the Users Guide. Our coach is Air Leveling Only so I am guessing the switch is not connected to anything. I will remove the switch and confirm next time I am at the storage unit.

OK after some research, I think what I have is a Ridewell Lo-Flo HCV part number 6255007. I've heard a few other 2008 Camelot/Dynasty owners having the same ride height valve unit. Now I'll need to fix the air leaks thru the PTC fittings and adjust the ride height.

Thank you Bill, I agree. I will check for any slack/play on the drag link ball joints. Also when you determine your options for the drag link boot on the steer axle side would you mind sharing it. I haven't looked closer but ours might have some issues there as well.

I agree, I am suspecting the POs mechanic might have used power grease gun causing it to pop loose. I am hoping another Camelot owner might share the photo of theirs with the boot seated so we can see how it should look after getting it back on.

I was wondering if anyone knows the make model part number of this 2008 Camelot ride height valve?

Hello Everyone I was under the coach today, looking for air leaks, and noticed something unusual about the draglink tie rod end. I was thinking there might be a clamp or something gone missing and wondering if there are any thoughts or suggestions on how to put it back together? Also I would very much appreciate if someone with a similar year Camelot can share a photo of their draglink tie rod end so I can compare and see what needs to be done on our unit. Thank you so much.

I was working on the swing door for the radiator stack, and noticed one of the radiators' bottom part was soggy (#4 in the photo). Looking at the stack, there is the main engine coolant radiator #1 behind all of them, which is not visible in the photo. I've checked it from the inside where the fan is located, and did not see any leaks (thank goodness). I am trying to figure out what #2, 3 and 4 does. I think #2 is the CAC, and either 3 or 4 is the transmission cooler perhaps. I am planning to fix the leak myself if possible. Any suggestions on where the leak might be coming from and how to fix it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.