c210pa18

Thank you Frank that is helpful information.

I noticed that the strut was painted over so was unable to read part numbers. I carefully sanded down through the paint and got a little more info. Then it dawned on me to check the storage compartment struts, they aren't painted over. That way I got the brand of the struts on the coach. It appears to be this strut linked here. https://www.siraweb.com/prop-752991?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwwr6wBhBcEiwAfMEQs3HhOEBi2DMeCIKvIGhJ7mi2EYa2QFInmEKD8lZX4XnI9FQAzj1trhoCas4QAvD_BwE The dimensions seem to match. Can anybody confirm this would be correct?

I am working on replacing the engine hatch struts on my 2002 Signature the parts numbers I am finding in the parts in the parts list document all seem to be 26.35" long compressed down to 16.1" Frank looking at the picture you posted above, it looks just like mine including the length of the strut relative to the other arms in the picture. I removed one of mine just now and the length is 23" and compressed 13.25". So the question is, do you know the specs on yours and part number? It appears that they are not the ones I am finding in the parts listing or the ones that others have used. Thanks for any help finding the correct replacements.

So to report in. The problem was the diaphragm in the curbside Brake Canister was leaking, actually not perforated but the diaphragm flange that gets pinched in between the canister halves went bad and lost its seal. This is the Canister that they use to lift the TAG AXLE. It is a Type 30 short stroke. There are two, a short stroke which is a 2.5-inch stroke, and a long stroke which is a 3-inch stroke. Actually on this chassis at least it would not matter either would work as you can adjust the lift height by changing the links on the lift chain. So thanks for the help which got me to the correct part to replace. And actually, this was the main problem with the other issue I had in the "another air system problem" thread. I think I had a couple of issues there. I'll do some more testing tomorrow but it appears to be working 100% now.

Got it off, Yes it is a 30 Thanks

There is lots of air coming from the vent holes in the Canisters on the curb side unit. So I would guess that the diaphragm on that one is gone. Are these common Brake Canisters? Is there somewhere to find a part number? I'll go to work removing that canister.

Ivan and Ben, I just got out from under the Coach trying to see how the lift works. I have been looking for lift airbags and found none but did find the Brake Canisters but was not so sure that they are what I was looking for. They must be as they are at the end of a lever that has chains on the other end that must be what lifts the axle. So I suppose those chambers have a diaphragm in them that could fail, is that true? I'm trying to "keep it simple" I find that often the failure has something to do with something that was just worked on so I'm thinking what did I do when I changed the PPV valves that caused this? I can't hear a leak as the engine is running so loud. Maybe I'll try shop air at that front fitting and see what I can find.

I am trying to understand how the tag axle is supposed to work and what the problem that I have really is. It is not working as it did before I changed the PPVs. I am sure that is used to lift the tag tire clear off the ground when you selected TAG UP on the switch. It does not now. It does take the pressure off, the pressure reading at the tag down pressure regulator in the driver's side engine bay goes down to zero. In this configuration rear tank pressure goes down to about 65 but the compressor will not bring it back up (front tank pressure strays up). If you use the brakes the rear tank pressure will go way down and not come back up, the front tank pressure still stays up. Now if you select TAG DOWN everything goes back to normal pressure builds back as it should. This does seem to be related to the problem I asked about in the thread a few days ago "Another Air system problem". I changed the air governor and thought I had that problem solved but I didn't realize that what actually solved that problem might have been that I had selected TAG Down.

Thank you, Frank! Replacing the governor seems to have solved the problem.

Ok thanks, Frank. I will get one and replace it. I'll let you know if that solves the problem. Not sure what the connection would be with the Air Leveling being on or off. That gave consistent results and did not drop the pressure readout but did result in the pressure building up again.

Ok, I went out and took it down to 60 then 50 then 40 at 40 pressure started to go up. However, I'm now wondering if I waited long enough on 60 and 50. After the pressure came up to 130 and the release popped off, I took it down to 110 and the pressure came up, then down to 120 and it did not come back up Then again down to 110 and it built back up to 130 where the release popped off. Maybe the air governor is not consistent??

I will go out and try that what should the cut in pressure be?

Air Problem, several weeks ago I changed out two PPV’s on the rear air tank and one on the front tank. The two rear units were leaking. Now after a couple of days the pressure drops to about 65lbs and doesn’t seem to go any lower or maybe just goes down much slower after 65 pounds. I have been working on the MH off and on so it has been getting started every few days recently. A few days ago I had it up to the shop working on it and when I started up and started to drive back to the storage shed, about 120 yards away from the shop, the pressure in the rear tank dropped to around 65 lbs I stopped and the pressure would not come back up. I fiddled with it, pumped the brakes a few times and the pressure went down some more but would not build more pressure. In my continued fiddling, for whatever reason, I pushed the Air Level button and it started building pressure back to normal. So this morning I decided to get the MH out of the shed and try to figure out want is going on. Everything worked as it should went for a drive (8 miles) I could not get it to fail. I parked it by the shop and worked on some other things. When I started it up a couple hours later, it was a repeat of what happened a few days ago. I can’t find an air leak although there must be a fairly big one to leak as fast as the compressor will pump air. It only leaks down to 65 lbs unless I press on the brake pedal then it will go on down, there seems to be an alarm horn in the back maybe near to rear air tank that goes off when the pressure gets down low enough, I've never heard that alarm before today. And again if I turn on the air leveling it will build pressure again. I am stumped. Is there a valve that is stuck open that closes when I turn on the air leveling? It seems most likely it is a rear airbrake problem but what does that have to do with the air leveling system? Please help.

I took mine apart and did not find any corrosion but the diaphragms were both cracked and leaking. So it was time for a replacement.

Naw, I think I'll follow the directions. These actually are labeled TOP on the top. I'm not sure that will make them last any longer but might as well do it right.

Thanks, guys good information that was very helpful. I found two here not too far away in our corner of the Phoenix area. I tried Advanced Auto they were over a week out. The MP parts were going to be close to $60 just for shipping. Fleet Pride had them so drove about 45 min away to pick them up. So tomorrow I will get them installed and check for more leaks. Hope this is all. It is interesting that they were upside down but still lasted over 20 years and $190,000 miles. You can tell they are original as they have undercoat spray on them which was factory installed on this coach.

Thanks for the help. Are they basically all the same pressures ? Opening Pressure of 65 PSI - Closing Pressure of 45 PSI

I have found two air leaks both are Meritor PPVs on the rear air tank. Both have the number Meritor 9348990040. I called a truck repair here in the Phoenix area and didn't get a lot of help except he said it crossed to a Meritor RKN31000. However, not having worked on these before not sure how they work. There seems to be a high and a low pressure setting maybe by part number? Anyway one is leaking a lot and one is leaking much less both leaking out the hole on top of the spring cover. I assume that means they are bad and need replaced. Am I going down the right path here? I can't find the original part number online but I did find the RKN31000 number online. Some help with this would be wonderful.

I should have included pictures in my first post. The first is AH in the off full up position the second is in the full down position The other switches are the 110 volt element, Then kitchen rope lights the the kitchen ceiling lights. I'm thinking that you are probably right they just didn't have a two position switch so used a three position one.

I have had this coach for a couple years now but I need help understanding the Agua Hot switch located in front of the kitchen sink. The main aqua hot switch is a 3 position switch, then there is next to that a switch that turns on the 110 volt heater element. On the main switch UP is off, full down a red light comes on and the diesel burner fires up and heats. But what does the middle switch position do? It seems like it is the same as full up, and that is off. What am I missing? Why a 3 position switch? The manual does seem to speak to this. Thanks for any help understanding this.

I want to wish everyone here a Merry Christmas as well. 2022 is when I joined this group and it has been great, very helpful. I don't post that much but read the posts almost everyday. There are very knowledgeable and helpful folks here and I thank everyone of you. A special thank you to the leaders that make it all happen.

Thanks Working fine

Got the foot switch installed and just completed a 1100 mile trip. Jake Brake works perfectly now. Got a great chance to prove it on the looong down hill between Flagstaff and Phoenix yesterday. Thanks for the help! I incorrectly presumed the problem would be more complicated than it was. Nice when it turns out like that.

I am finding the Linemaster and PacBrake foot switches but on the original. Good to know the LineMaster works no problem. Looks like that is what I'll order. Well that was easier than I expected. The foot switch has resistance and is intermittent so a new one will go in and it is supposed to be here Monday. Great help guys!! Thanks

Thanks for the quick replies. The foot switch does have some resistance so that is probably the problem. I have just now been searching for the part number PN 012260 and so far the first few places that come up are out of stock. I'll keep looking.