pcallison

The black line actually goes to an actuator arm I believe that is what it would be called, turbo related??

I have this air cylinoid that is blowing air out the bottom of the unit? Not sure what it is called or its function so difficult to look up? Where would I find a replacement quickly as we leave for vacation in a few days. or is it just stuck? I may try and knock on it to see if it frees up and closes? mounted on the frame on drivers side next to motor. Has green line to it and a heavier line coming up ... Thanks Phil

MODERATOR EDIT Phil, glad you are OK. However, since you have been reading and understand what has been posted here on the IOTA, this post should have been included in the continuing one. We are trying to make the topics more organized and also more productive. In the future, please do not start a new topic on an item that is being discussed, with a great deal of detail. We have to clean this up. I have merged your new topic into this one. Thanks in advance. Tom Cherry Moderator Gentlemen, I have been reading the IOTA ATS switch information. Just so you know I was a lucky one. Didn't know they were recalled and not knowing much about them, I didn't realize I should have checked the ATS. Other than seeing it in the electrical bay. Well, I got home from the maiden voyage, Knight got us to Tennessee and back to Ok, I thought without incident. Plugged my coach into my shore power in the shop when I got home, but noticed that the panel over the door wasn't picking up the power source. And of course not knowing much about why, I figured that it was just me. But upon further inspection today, discovered a major problem...burnt lug and wiring inside box. (see pics) So upon one article, IOTA ITS-50R, was recalled but it was never replaced on my coach. It will be now of course. According to the article there were 2 recommendations: 1. ESCO LPT50VBRD 2. PROGRESSIVE HW50C I called my local RV repair shop and he had World Friendship Model? Is that a comparable replacement? Also, I have quite a bit of electrical experience, is this something that I can do myself? The local shop didn't recommend that I tackle this job? What is the groups opinion, of courses I do not have any wiring diagrams either, but it at a glance seemed fairly straight forward. As long as you don't mix up wiring. Will have to see how much wiring will need to be replaced? Any suggestions, I am sure there will be.

I didn't turn chassis switch off before pulling it in to get ready for a trip. Went to start it and deader than a doornail. I assumed that there was a battery tender set up while connected to shore power, but totally wrong. Still new to this stuff. I will have to research more after I get back from the trip.

LOL thanks all. I got a little in a hurry as we are leaving in a few days for a trip. Don't laugh but I used clear flex seal tape basically to hold it in place. As I figured that I would just replace it over the winter anyway?? I did think about taking it off and putting a few stiches in it, but decided that I didn't have enough time at the moment to do that so I improvised..

Was just watching some youtube on how to get it open and they aren't really that safe?? lol I think I will give it a shot... I will try the 50 ship code first though... Evidently there is a clinoid pin that can be jarred loose??

To all who can help with this?? Anyone know how to reset code for the safe that is in my coach. When I bought it they didn't know the code. I have contacted Monaco for information and was told they couldn't help. There has to be a way to reset them, just finding out how to program them is the key I suppose. Doc Gem and there was a number on the bottom corner... Thanks Phil

Cubflyer, Yes fabric is unsewn and coming out of trim. I have an idea that I am going to try spawned from a post I had run across yesterday with my own twist.... Thanks Phil

Thanks JD I will check it out. Thanks Gary. I have a gun but I don't think it will shoot dome head rivets. Also from Harbor Freight..

So, have noticed that the awning over the bedroom slideout it coming out from the mounting frame on the coach. I am going to aim at repairing this for now and see if I can get it back in there enough for it to hold for the remainder of this year?? Any suggestions on how to fix. It is still attached on the ends but has come out in the middle. Thanks Phil

Thanks men, I did eventually find the manual to say all systems are charged at factory with 4 lbs of refrigerant. My system was definitely low. He did put a pound in. Still doesn't blow ice cold but is better than it was. He obviously didn't want to go overboard not knowing the specs trying to obtain/achieve. Tom, that information is great thank you. Phil Oh, BTW it is scheduled to be 102+ here in Oklahoma for at least the next 7 days....Oh Boy...can't wait.

Thanks Ivan, He is an experienced mechanic that I trust. His machine pulls out the refrigerant, measures it etc. He put in about a pound of refrigerant to get it where he thinks it should be. I figure that most coaches will be different. But that is a starting point. Thanks for the info. Phil

Took my 03 Monaco Knight to service Dash AC. Mechanic hooked machine to it and recharged system. Sticker had type of refrigerant to use but did not list how much? Any where to find that information so I will know for sure? Thanks Phil

Any suggestions on why headlight dimmer switch when at near full glow causes the low water light to appear? Headlights all work and dash lights all work when turned ct. clockwise. Have used some contact cleaner and seemed to help some but still comes on when approaching full power to dash lights. Have checked coolant level and everything seems okay at that end of it. Have not cleaned sensor yet, but don't really believe that is the issue, but I suppose it still could be. As long as the light switch is not on the low warning light doesn't come on?

And Again, you guys have been very helpful and I greatly appreciate your time as I continue to search for more knowledge. Phil

Thanks all....No wiring diagram I am aware of yet. I will dig deeper in the owners/maint. log.... But alas, I do believe I have found the problem or at least narrrowed it. And anyone who has knowledge of it please share with me on if I am on the right track. Yes on Coolant Tech. I figure there are several, but didn't know if you could pick some up without driving an hour for my nearest RV dealer. I can definitly pull some off if it were to ever come down to that and everything that I have read about low coolant sensor tells me that I will have to eventually but...see next line I believe it lies in the light switch itself causing issues. I have just discovered that something within the switch is making the low light glow. It is the cab dimmer. You crank it all the way to brightest setting (ct. clockwise) and the darn thing comes on at that point. Dim the dash where it is a low glow, and wallah, it goes off. Any Takers on This One? lol....and I don't really like driving at night anyway Rick A....and I have run without lights before back in the day lol.... BTW my sensor is at the lower level of the aluminum expansion tank mounted horizontally and single wired.

Thanks vito.a. Since removing the sensor may envolve some fluid loss, can it be refilled with regular ethylene glycol 50/50? Or do I need a special blend/type. The coolant in it now has an orangish tint. Not the typical green I am familiar with.

Would that be associated with the light switch? I am not real familiar with doing this diagnostic, but am a fast learner with guidance lol...

I have recently purchased a Monaco Knight 2003 cummings eng. Discovered just a couple of days ago this problem. Coolant level is full and have read threads about cleaning the sensor, but my confusion becomes it only appears when I turned on the headlights?? Goes off also when switch is pushed in. Any ideas on this? I hope that I haven't made a bad investment.. Phil