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Don"t know if this post is being monitored, but I need to replace my Air Bags on a 2002 Diplomat, 3 slide unit, 32,000 GVWR. All of mine are Firestone W01-358-9376 as far as I can tell. Parts List does not have a listing for 2002 Diplomats. But, it has 3 slides and I suppose weight distribution might call for all bags to be 9376 types. Had one bag replaced on rear, and all seem to have same Bellows No. 1T15L-2. And I noticed that some of the bags are using a non-metallic base. any thoughts as to what base might need to be used?

My last 2 sets were Continental Tires. Good wear and ride. No cracks even after 10 years. Coach kept inside.

(This was a NEW topic....INTERSTATE BATTERIES NOT TAKING A CHARGE. Member picked up that it was similar to this top and should be merged. That has been done) I purchased a set(4) of Interstate 6 Volt Batteries in February 2021. I think I was recalling a previous Interstate set of a few years ago when I got about 6 years service. However, Very recently while checking the Coach Batteries I noted that the Inverter was doing it's normal thing with charging, but upon checking the chassis and house battery voltages the Interstates were at 11.99 volts. I disconnected the 110 AC input to the Inverter and connected the BatteryMinder/desulfator to the house batteries. That was 3 days ago and now the voltage is up to 12.05 volts. Since it has been so cold, I have neglected to do a battery load test, but plan to do that tomorrow when the temp is supposed to get up to 55 degrees. I don't think the temp has had any impact on the batteries since the coach is inside an insulated building with the inside temp around 40 degrees during this cold snap. I noticed other posts concerning Interstate Batteries. Does this problem sound similar to other Interstate Battery problems reported/experienced??

Jim, don't know if you insulated your building when constructed, but I built a 35x50 and insulated with the commercial fiberglass rolls 6 inches thick. Of course I live outside of Atlanta so temps are not as extreme as yours. However, I don't use inside heat until the temps get below 20 degrees for more than 2 days. the slab will keep the inside temp above 35 to 40 without heat. I usually do not have to winterize. But if the temps stay below 20 degrees I will use heat either a heat pump set on its lowest setting or small automatic heater inside the MH. And I usually let the inverter stay on automatic for the batteries, and of course household frig stays on. FWIW. My chassis batteries are not charged by the inverter circuit so I keep a check on them and used a battery Minder with desulfater capability. And I try to remember to use the battery minder on the house batteries about every six months as well. Again FWIW.

I believe Franks comment does answer my posted question....along with all of the other comments. The ECM can't fault what it can't see. My manuals are less than helpful in identifying a specific cause in my overall problem, but the information is helpful in ruling out certain problem areas. Again as Frank pointed out the problems generated with loose connections getting hot, etc., is a potential problem area that I will address shortly, before our next outing. I believe I can rule out the ECM as a main culprit since I called Cummins RV Maintenance who did state that the ECM in all likelyhood will not interrupt the power to the Dash. I believe this particular Topic can be closed to further posts if the Administrator desires.

OK, thanks for the info. I have the Cummins manuals for my 8.3 ISC. A review of that harness connection, hopefully, will give potential trouble shooting comments as well as how to disconnect, what to look for and clean/reseal the connection. Thanks again.

Frank, based on your comment as well as other contributors, makes me think of an additional question. If the ECM were to fault as you have pointed out/suggested, would the/or could the ECM take two hours or so to reset?? Because when the engine shuts off, it is approximately two hours before the power is restored to the dash/ignition switch.

MODERATOR's EDIT Please do not post a topic that is general and has been covered many times without first doing a SEARCH (upper Right box). If you put in STEP, you will get many threads or posts. Some, unfortunately are repeats and the discussions are fragmented and not all the participants found the "other threads". I have merged your topic into this one. It has the info that you need. There is also another one that has the specifics on HOW TO and the pitfalls and the trouble shooting. There are 553 HITS (no LIE.....) for STEP and within the past few months....two long and complete topics. Here is another one that would be of interest. Please post here as this one seems to be inactive....and we have not "cleaned it up" and merged the two. If you also Google the 151332, and that was also used on my 09 Camelot, you will find many hits for it. Camping World installed the Lippert 300-1406 motor in mine a year ago. Works great. Here is also a link... https://www.etrailer.com/p-LC301695.html I would advise getting ONLY the OEM motor that Lippert sells. I ordered an Ebay that was labeled as the OEM 151332. The holes would not line up. I ended up sending it back and bought the 300-1406 from CW and they installed it without a hitch. Maybe the installer used a drill or a file to open up the holes. AM Equipment is NOW making (Importing) Stepper motor kits for the steps. That is what CW is selling how. Looks like a dead match....just does not say Lippert. Thanks in advance for searching next time before you post. I have a single step on a 2002 Diplomat. I am looking for the Part No. 151332 Motor/Actuator, or cross-over no. Parts List didn't include my Number, but I am relatively sure one of those listed will probably work. Any idea which one is the right cross-over? Thanks.

I have checked all of the grounds that I have been able to find, but I have not pulled the ECM plug to try and check the ground pin. Of course when the coach is running I don't suppose checking the ground pin would be of any appreciable value since it is making contact. In any event, I have a Tech coming this week who might be able to identify potential trouble areas. Most of the Truck Techs are familiar with Trucking/Trailer electrical and hopefully, may have some experience with RV electrical. Thanks for ideas.

When I checked the Dash Eng/Dia Switch, the Warning and Stop Lamps came on and stayed illuminated. But, no flashing appeared as I counted to 30, them switched the key back off. Since I didn't get any indication of an active Code, I just assumed that no Codes have been recorded. This shut down situation has been going on since 2018. And of course the fuel filter has been changed about once a year. So I don't think it's a fuel related issue, especially when the coach dies going down the Interstate and the dash goes totally dark. Thanks to Jim J. above who has had some interesting observations over the past year or so on another Forum. For those who may not be familiar with this on-going saga, I have replaced several parts, mostly relays and circuit breakers, Main Chassis Disconnect Switch, as well as the lift pump which had an intermittent leak. One thing I might ask is....is it possible for the Chassis Interface Plug, located in the center of the Electrical Panel (outside below the drivers seat) to interrupt the power to the Ignition Relay?? I noticed when the burned relays were replaced in 2018, that one of the Traces in the Circuit Board from the Ignition Relay went to the Chassis Interface Plug. Also, I have purchased a new KIB Latch Relay (located at the bottom of the electrical panel) for replacement as well. The KIB Latch Relay smells like it has gotten hot, has a burnt smell. As you know this relay is suppose to work with the Salesman Switch as I understand it's purpose. But, it does feed the 50 Amp Circuit Breaker that feeds the Coach side of the Circuit Board. This same Trace from this Circuit Breaker appears to feed power to the Chassis Interface Plug as well. And when the Ignition Relay is pulled, the Dash lights will not come on with the key switched on. Thus, the reason for my question. As I have mentioned in other Forums, Folks I am open to comments/ideas. Thanks.

I'm just trying to rule out as many items as I can. If there are no Codes showing in the Dash Panel, can I feel safe in assuming that the ECM is Ok, and it is not picking up any problem areas. Then I can try and look at other possible options that may be breaking down. An electrical problem is hard to find. But, it appears that something is getting hot and causing the power to the Dash to be cut off for about two hours. Then the power comes back allowing the engine to start up and continue some distance before the power is interrupted and shuts the power to the ignition off again. That is the gremlin that I am pursuing. Thanks for your comment.

On the older Monaco(2002 Diplomat) if there are no Diagnostic lights showing in the dash, is it reasonable to assume that the ECM is not showing any Trouble Codes? Has anyone found a situation where you had a Dash Code Flash up, but the Eng/Dia Switch didn't show a Fault?? The reason I ask is.....my coach shuts down for not reason on various occasions. I have checked the Eng/Dia Switch, which appears to be working, but it doesn't indicate any Trouble Codes either. I was thinking of buying a Heavy duty Truck Code Reader, but I don't really want to spend the money if it would not be wise. Thanks.

Still searching for potential short, but the only thing I can find that has burnt smell is the Latch Relay(ordered a new one) in the front electrical panel. I have not had any losses of instruments that should be powered by the Latch Relay, and as I understand the function of the Latch Relay, it is "Coach Battery Electrical." I wouldn't think it could be associated with the Dash Instrument Panel going dark when the engine dies. Has anyone heard or seen a situation where this Latch Relay(Labeled as Aux Start Relay" on the Electrical Panel) has caused the Ignition Relay to cut the power to the Dash Ignition Switch? Thanks.

OK. That is the starter relay that I thought might be suspect, based on a previous post that I read. However, the way Monaco set up the starting system, once the engine cranks, the relay and starter solenoid drop out of the system, as I understand the wiring. Just checked for power to the relay with key on, and for instantaneous power during key cranking. All of this seems to be working properly. And no power to relay with engine running, So when the engine dies, the dash power should not be affected by the starter relay circuit, as one poster has suggested. There is however, a problem of some magnitude in the Front Electrical Panel. When your open that compartment, there is and has been a faint smell of burnt wiring. I thought it was maybe from the burnt sockets we replaced back in 2018, but all of that material was removed. That I suppose is my next target. I will have to loosen all of the wire bundles and look for a circuit breaker or something that may be causing a circuit breaker of either a coil to open when it gets hot. Wish me luck. Thanks..

OK, thanks for the confirmation. Had hoped to get back and check the circuit today, but it now will be Friday. That relay looks rather small from what I remembered. Of course it has been 10 years since last looking at it. Take care. David.

I going to get the DW to turn the key on and see if I hear the starter solenoid click in, and then take the bottom small white wire off and see if it still makes contact or not. The reason I am looking for the starter solenoid is that on another Forum a poster said he had a problem with the starter solenoid getting hot while running which shut his coach down. Since I have been chasing this problem since 2018, I am desperate to find the culprit, so I am down to replacing parts. Until I find the issue. Thanks for your help.

This is the Panel I am trying to figure out, mentioned above. I have looked all around the engine compartment and tried to follow the starter wires which went into a large wire bundle near the battery compartment. So, I don't think the relay is in the engine compartment. Relay Panel Rear.eml Relay Panel Rear.eml Relay Panel Rear.eml

In the rear compartment, passenger side, there are three relays. A part of the electrical is for the air intake heater, as I recall. But, the first relay has a couple of white wires attached to it, and as I think and recall, this may be the one that had the loose wire on it that caused the starter to intermittently work. I will try to post a picture of it. Do you recall what type of starter relay Monaco used for your Coach?

It's been 10 years since I worked on the starter relay for this Coach. But for some reason, I have forgotten the location. Anyone remember which compartment the Starter Relay is located behind. 2002 Monaco Diplomat 40 PST, 330 Cummins??