marcbachman

Hello, I only guessed that my problem was a failed transfer switch. I found a deal on a Surge Guard 41260 Automatic Transfer Switch. I took out the old one and put it in. I have a dedicated location in my basement that yours might not have. Mine has served flawlessly, it has surge protection.

We have gone on a dozen or so HRRVC outings with no latching issues, I think I can call the aforementioned transfer switch a fix. I also don't see evidence of arcing inside the switch, although I wonder if I should have used a contact paste. And, I wonder if there is a definitive test to check function on my Magnum inverter. Can they be disassembled inside the bay to inspect and/or test resistance on critical components? And yes, I know to unplug from all power sources first (unless there is a post of interest that identifies an actual procedure for inverter testing).

I have a problem with not enough light to see when driving at night. I'm going to see if switching to an LED bulb for my 2005 Ambassador Holiday Rambler that claims to be "600 percent brighter" may actually be a solution. I thought I might need to find a complete upgrade solution to fit, and I think that might be a possibility if this cheap fix doesn't do the trick.

I want to say thanks to all of you, and attached are images of my finished work. I had corrective surgery on my left hand and am now at the campgrounds ( Citizen Potawatomie Nation at Shawnee OK ) ready to turn in. Now when I plug in I hear the audible latching sound.

Ray- The picture is of a new one. Mine is oh, maybe 8-9 years old. Has not been used a lot, just beat up from handling and from the first time I used it when I didn't understand the way the levers were to be used. And yes, it has the inertial braking system. I'm taking mine to the point of origin up the road from me to get their recommendation. I had one of my trailers pass me on a bridge long ago. I still remember that like a video that plays in front of my eyes. The thought of welding, maybe using current from the generator, is somewhat intriguing, but I think I'll resist that for now. I don't know, can I get 240 VAC from my generator? I'm also highly suspicious of the concept of inertial braking as interpreted/employed by the tow bar maker. Any opinions here?

Hello Bills D Monacoers- I had to put in my .02, I have an older Ready Brute tow bar, I really don't know how durable it is. Of course I could buy a Blue Ox for cheap. but not my style. Almost all of the other members of my KS Sunflower Ramblers have Blue Ox except for the hard head that uses a car dolly for his Caddy. This post has further put me off Blue Ox since it looks like there is a distinct design problem. Or perhaps the design limit was exceeded. Hard for me to tell. Anyway, I have needed and will be forced to upgrade everything at some point when I have to send my 02 Silverado flat toad to its final rest. Pieces of it continue to sluff off as I drive, and the pieces are increasing in size. I will probably be able to stick my head through the holes in a year or two, or pop rivet some patches on. Also of course I would never do this, but what if you had some good 7014 rod and a stick welder, could you actually repair something like this, ( the Blue OX towbar ) even to get home? A friend wants to know.

Hello Dr4Film and Monacoers- Even though it looks like to me that my transfer switch is working, it's that my inverter is actually what doesn't want to work intermittently, I'm sure I should replace my transfer switch. I got my SurgeGuard 41260 ( brand new transfer switch )yesterday and now I'm not too sure about how good of an idea it is, especially if I could get some really important features with another different transfer switch. I need to do something this week, or just sit on my thumb until after the next trip. As I said earlier, because all three of the sets of conductors from the generator, the inverter, and the cable that goes to the downstream panels all come in from the top of the bay for the transfer switch and the giant cable that goes to the power pedestal. The better transfer switches, if I understand right, protect against other power faults as well as a power surge. They seem to cost 2-3 times as much, as well.

I would really want to be able to recommend a mechanical/electrical device with the knowledge that I or someone I trust has represented that the manufacturer and/ or the device has a good warranty or a good track record. I have no such inspiration for a recommendation. I have ordered a Technology Research ( now Southwire ) 41260 transfer switch because it reportedly has surge protection built in. It is a verrry expensive item, and will require that I adapt it to my application in terms of how I route the wiring, and I would guess that a good lightning or AC surge will burn out some part of a circuit board or similar protection that is built in. So that means I will pay a handsome price for the surge protection. This is my second motorhome, I don't even remember what transfer method was on the first one, so never mind that. I am a member of our local Holiday Ramblers group, which is aging out, and our future is somewhat uncertain. We have a member who has some kind of RV repair shop going in a county hundreds of miles from me. So far he has not offered or suggested many remedies for the electrical issues I have had, so I'm pretty much still on my own. That's why I'm here. There are some recommendations on other replies to my initial post.

Hello, Monacoers- I am going to tell on myself. I can use a voltmeter but am apparently too lazy. I ordered the new transfer switch, which should be here today. I did a little bit more analysis to find out that my IOTA transfer switch indeed latches every time. Apparently the inverter, Magnum ME2012, was not inverting when I plugged in to shore power, and I erroneously assumed that it was the transfer switch. I took off the inspection cover on the side of the inverter, and verified that the incoming voltage was there @115 VAC, but that there was 0 output voltage to the coach. So I'm just presuming that since the house batteries were down that the inverter had gone into recharge mode to charge my house batteries, and that nothing will work until those batteries were charged. I checked later, and the Status panel in my camper showed that I had 50 amps, all my 12V appliances were green LED, and the MAGNUM panel showed "Absorption Charging" and a voltage number, or something like that. So the implication is that the transfer switch is latching, but my batteries had run down to where the inverter was shut off, until the batteries were charged enough. So the detail left to consult is that the new transfer switch is designed for the shore power and generator power lines to come in on one side, and the 115V to come out of the opposite side. I hope I have enough slack to make this work and there is enough room inside the new transfer switch, and that I can find the room to punch a hole for the output power going to the coach.

I have 3 house/hobby wire crimpers that go up to maybe 16 stranded, don't know what to do for industrial type crimpers. I have wanted to be able to crimp lugs on the giant cable that goes to my batteries, another wish item. So what crimpers shall I look for for 8 gauge and up? Yes. After I get done with this maybe y'all can tell me how to put together a solar battery maintainer. I'm having problems with my inverter, I think, because it doesn't want to invert when my house batteries are low. Another subject. Anyway...

Hello all, and thank you. So I have decided to upgrade to a Southwire 41260 which has some protection, I guess. And, yes, I have stranded wire which is really not made for the bus bar on my new transfer switch. Does anyone know where these crimp ferrules for stranded wire come from? I was wondering if any kind of hollow brass thing would work? I don't think any copper tubing would be that small. I'm going to check the hardware store, but my local source has done away with all the curious stuff they used to stock, so I'm thinking I won't find anything. I think it is correct that stranded wire is subject to breakage both from heat stress and compression by the torque against the steel bolt end. When the heck did I get so picky? When I spent the bucks on my camper.

MODERATOR EDIT. This post is a classic example of the IOTA 50-R ATS that was recalled by most major RV or MH Manufacturers several year ago. IOTA refused to accept any LIABILITY. These ATS have caught fire and also stranded many individuals. The poster is very lucky to have figured out the issue. The contacts and the terminal strip created High Resistance connections. Even a thorough retightening does not correct the problem. They need to be replaced. Monaco was purchased by Navistar. Navistar recalled ALL the IOTA's they installed. However the Bankruptcy of Monaco absolved Navistar of any liability for the Monaco production and IOTA refused to participate in the NHTSA Recall. If you MUST use one until you can purchase and install a replacement, retighten the terminals and use sparingly. ESCO, a well known brand and one of the most popular choices for replacement, also recommends using Loctite Green on the terminals. If not, they need to be retightened periodically....but also even with Loctite, they should be checked every few years...or more if you are a high miler. This, I assume from discussions with ESCO on the maintenance would apply to all. EDITED NOTE...if you have an IOTA with the #2 Square drive screws in the terminals, I reused them. A SHARP Poster just gave some INSIGHT. DO NOT REUSE THE IOTA SCREWS (on Page 2). They DID work for me...but they MAY have had a different "point" and more contact area on the wire. Hello Monacoers- I am fixing, or attempting to fix an intermittent shore power problem. When I get home with my camper or to a campground, and attempt to plug into shore power, I have to "pump" my transfer switch to get it to connect to the power coming from my power cable. At least this is my explanation for why I don't get power right away. I have been working around this for almost a year, I would say, give or take. It's now time to take the bull by the horns. I have been looking for any type of mechanism in my camper that would cause this behavior and my analysis is that it is my transfer switch, the IOTA IS50R. I see that there was a recall on these, don't know why the previous owner(s) didn't take care of this. Certain suggestions are that it wasn't this transfer switch, but an installation problem as a result of not enough torque applied to the connections. If anyone wants to, please tell me what I need to get to ensure that my replacement lasts as long as it should. Maybe these transfer switches are a more consumable item that I would guess.