Chris Leedle

Tom, Nice, I use the same regulator. I had to replace the first one I bought after a couple of years in Arizona. The heat and hard water really shortened its life span.

Tom, You are correct, the newest remote has a lot more options. My Son in Law has a Buisness account with a distributor here in Portland so I was able to pick up a new ME2012 for $1,100. Mine had a lot of good years as it was built in '06, so I guess I can't complain. I learned a lot more about how the Camelot is wired up and the path all the AC power takes in it. Costly lesson, but I will remember it.

Tom, I always trust your responses and was getting to the same decision myself. We were able to get it back working in inverter mode, but charging is not working so it looks like it's time to purchase a new ME2012. I want to thank everyone for thier support. Have a Happy New Year.

All the breakers are fine, in the coach and on the inverter. When power was applied, came on for about 15 seconds, then everything through the inverter went dead. At this time you could smell electrical burning. Inverter reset did not help. Had to bypass inverter to Power up my fridge and outlets. Not working on the microwave yet. Pulled the inverter and see nothing obvious. Can trace some of the circuit, but really could use a set of schematics. Don't really want to purchase a new one. Thanks for all the input and support.

Visiting my Daughter and Son in law for Christmas. He set up a 50 amp circuit for us, unfortunately he only ran 3 wires and left neutral open. This caused my Magnum inverter to quit working, along with my microwave. I have learned a lot about how my RV uses ground amd neutral and now understand I had 240v put through these two devices. Does anyone have Magnum ME2012 schematics? Believe the AC board is damaged, schematics would help.

Tommy/Ted, The topper does cover the slide fully, I think just the angle of the picture may have appeared that it didn't. I do agree that it is very close to both edges. I also appreciate all the feedback. I was able to put tension on the spring as I stated in my last post, was just trying to see if there is an easier way. The way that carefree built this, once you remove either cap the metal cover comes loose as the cap is what holds it together. Just a little pain keeping it in place while you hold the roller and turn the spring. I was able to use a small allen wrench to put in the hole and hold the tension. I used a wrench to turn the spring and it is now holding up the shade. It's all good now guys, just wish Carefree had put in a tension adjustment wheel or something.

So I was finally able to get up on my ladder this morning and get this taken care of. Turns out it was a really cheap fix as the culprit was a missing screw on the end opposite the spring. Turns out the missing screw caused the two other screws to loosen enough for the roller to shift toward the front of the coach. This allowed the spring to move off the holder and spin loose. In the picture below I circled where the screw was missing. It ended up only costing less than $15, and that is only because I first bought the right size screw, 10-32 X 1 and then found out where is screwed into the aluminum was stripped out. I had to go back to ACE Hardware and purchase a 10-32 X 1-1/4 screw and loctite. The problem with Carefree using stainless screws into extruded aluminum is that they do tend to strip out. The only hard part of this project was turning the spring to get tension back. Not easy when you don't have the roll off the coach and it still has the shade material was still in place. I was able to put tension on by hand and use a smaller allen wrench to put through the hole that keeps the tension. Not sure I was able to put enough turns in it, but it is holding the shade up. Is there a trick to this? The other problem is that as you take out the screws holding the caps on that releases the metal top cover that you have to hold in place while working on everything. Not an easy task by yourself, but I was able to do it.

Thanks for the help guys. I plan on getting on top and taking a look this weekend as I still work and won't have time until then. I will take it apart this weekend and see what the issue is. Thanks for the offer of help Ted, I'll let you know if I need help. I'm up north at Apache Wells near the 202 Red Mountain and Higley. how much longer are you here in town? I believe I can handle it though as it is very similar to the inside shades. I had one of them break the internal plastic piece so I know what to look for. Checking out the Carefree website now to see what documents I can find. Thanks again all, this is such a helpful forum.

I could use a little guidance. The long Carefree Slide Topper over my large slide with the couch, dinette and refrigerator appears to have lost its tension. We had some high winds today here in Mesa, AZ and when I came back to my RV I heard some loud flapping noise. Walking outside I see that there is no tension on the topper. The material still looks in great shape so I hope it doesn't rip during this wind event. A neighbor just came by and ask me if something broke on top of my RV as they heard a loud noise. That gives me a clue that the spring may have broke. Any thoughts on where I can get one? Is there a manual or instructions on how to re-tension once the spring is replaced? I will try to remember to take pictures when I go to fix this so others can see. Normally I get working and don't remember to take pictures until I am already done working.

Tom, No I did not cut off the plug. It was the two piece style and I opened it and checked wire end to wire end. I also used the plug and cord for over a month before I had time to swap out the reel. I didn't take any pictures or I would put one up for you. A little background on me, I have over 40 years experience in field service supporting a wide variety of equipment. I still manage a large team that supports Plasma Etchers in the Semiconductor Industry. I know my way around high voltage and schematics. As a manager I like doing all my own work on my Camelot as I don't do any hands on in my work anymore. Thanks for all your feedback. More eyes and brains on a problem makes it easier to get fixed.

Tom, Yes, I checked ohm'ed out the plug, and check the main cord from the plug to the reel. I ran the reel back a forth a bunch and still did not have any luck. It was an open circuit from the wire connections in the reel to the electrical box in the engine compartment. That is why I was able to reuse the power cord hard wired to the interconnect in the engine compartment. This kept me going for a month while waiting for the reel and time to do the work. Ben, I also understand that my issue was different than Ron's, his is either at the transfer switch or at his AC panel. Easy to check if you have the knowledge and skills to work with electricity, or know a good tech to help you. I certainly recommend using a good tech if you are not skilled and knowledgeable as I do not want anyone to hurt themselves. I just felt like sharing the fun I had. 🙂

Ron should be having fun. When I had one leg of the 50 amp go bad it was a very interesting troubleshooting time. One of the first things I found was that my 2007 Camelot still had the IOTA transfer switch. A quick search in Google gave me the background on that recall. Ordered a replacement and waited for it to arrive. Easy to replace and I had high hopes that was the fix. I am really glad I found out about the issue with the IOTA and that I had replaced it, but unfortunately I was still missing one leg of the 50 amps. After bit of troubleshooting I discovered I had both legs going into my power reel, but only one leg coming out. A real pain to measure the voltage in the engine bay where the box is connecting the reel to the lines going to the transfer switch. It was tucked away to the left of the opening behind the air intake. Now it got really interesting. Pulled the 50 amp line off the reel and wired it directly into the electrical box in the engine bay. This got everything up and going in the RV. I then ordered a replacement reel, decided to go with the Glendinning CRRA50-12-50, as this would give me extra length on my input line. I ended up ordering it from RV Upgrade Store as they had the best price, https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Glendinning-CRRA50-12-50-Cablemaster-p/CRRA50-12-50.htm . Of course I now had the pleasure of installing it. The only access in the 2007 Camelot is through the bump up in the bedroom closet. To make it even more fun I had to remove and once done reattach part of the sewer line from the washer. I did have to make some minor modifications to the new reel to allow space for the sewer line to squeeze past, and also had to repair the water line going to the washer when I nicked it. But after a couple of hours I was able to get it in, wired up and the power back up in the coach. Great learning experience and now I have a much better power reel.

Thanks for posting. I have an on the go softener and hate the regen process. I am now ordering the regen kit to add to mine.

Dr4Film, The link in the parts list is no longer valid. I also am not sure which latches are used in the 2007 Monaco Camelot 42PDQ. As I also have the same model RV as bandmmorris I was looking. I see two models on their website, C5-11-15 https://southco.com/en_us_int/c5-11-15 and the C5-11-25 https://southco.com/en_us_int/c5-11-25. Does anyone know which would be the correct one? Who can update the parts list with the new link?

I have the instructions for resetting the keypad on my 2007 Camelot. I am in Japan right now but will be home in a couple of days. If you do not get an answer PM me and I will send you a copy of the directions.

I also didn't know what was being talked about. Thanks Olywrestle for the picture. I just checked and found out I am missing 9. I could use a dozen so I have extras on hand. I don't have access to a 3d printer so would be willing to pay for some, as long as the price is reasonable of course.

I agree with Dr4Film, these connections should be checked yearly. The failure I had was more smoke than flames and it was in a metal electrical cabinet, so the risk of fire was minimal, but it was still a risk. Waking up to the smell of smoke really got me moving though. Since I am staying in one place for a while on a 50 amp circuit I have bypassed the board for the 4 heavy draw units that this controls when using 30 amps. When I am ready to move around more I will reconnect them on the outside chance I need to use a 30 amp plug in somewhere. This should minimize my chance of having this leave me without lights for a couple days in the future. As I am sure we all know, now that this has been fixed something else will break to give me my next project.

I want to thank everyone in this feed for giving me direction. I was woke up a little before 6:00am this last Monday with all my lights flashing on and off and then my bedroom filling with burning electronics smell. I had to jump up in the dark and shut off the main breakers while wondering what happened. Luckily with all my battery powered outdoor LED lights I was able to get lights going and start troubleshooting. Removing my breaker cover I immediately saw the smoke marks on the cover and could see the burnt area on the board. The 5 amp fuse was blown and I tried replacing that, turning power back on that only gave me more smoke. 🙂 That is when I got on the internet and found this feed. I have a 2007 Monaco Camelot PDQ so I knew that I had the same system. Reading this I followed what others had done and direct connected the AC/heat pumps to bypass this board. This allowed me to get everything on the AC side up and running. I did not have any lights with the Intellitec board smoked, but I was able to get by, by using my outdoor LED lights for a few nights. I ordered a new board through Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XDFQBS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details, it showed that I would not receive the board for a week to a week and a half, but I got it within three days. That was a nice surprise. While waiting on the board I did go to Home Depot and purchase a new tandem breaker to replace the one supplying power to the back heat pump as that is where most of the damage was. I wanted to make sure that this was not the root cause. Removed the old board this morning. Not too bad, but those 8 wires are stiff so you need to use needle nose pliers to get them out and back in. Of course I did make sure to turn off all power to the RV before I started. Before turning on the power I turned off the 4 breakers feeding this board and left the main breakers off, didn't want to blow the new board when I turned power back on outside. I then turned on the main breaker and tested my lights, all good now. I then went back to the panel and turned on, one at a time, each of the 4 breakers feeding this board. Everything is now back to normal and working great. I will try to resize my pictures so I can upload them. Thanks again everyone, this feed really saved me a lot of time. Chris L