heathbus

I am working on moving so since I have had no interest in the free light covers I previously posted on, out they go so they are no longer available.

This seems to me to be way after this was a hot issue but I just replaced 2 of my ceiling lights in my 2002 Monaco Knight and have the 2 light covers available to anyone who wants them. Free from me you just pay shipping. I believe they are the same as the ones shown in the post above from cubflyer. I used the leisure led lights as my replacements. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BF5WHKGS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 I first worked on the lights about 6 years ago. At that time I removed the tubes and ballast and installed LED strips like cubflyer. I put in 4 strips in each light. It worked well but the leisure lights look a little better and you can adjust the light level if required. I attached my LED strips to the bottom of the light fixture because I believe I got more light out of the LEDS when they point directly at the floor. LEDs do not distribute light equally in all directions.

I have replaced the toilets in 2 motorhomes now. Both of the flanges were screwed, not glued, onto the drain pipe leading into the black tanks.

Leisure lights told me and I proved it to be true that once you turn on one of their lights and set the brightness level you can turn them off and on from a single light switch and the leisure lights will come on at the same brightness you left them set at. I now have them installed in both continuous power and switched power locations in my coach.

I sold mine using RV Trader but had lots of Scam offers when I used both that site and Facebook. Be very cautious of offers. Most forms of payment can be stopped before you are safe to spend the money. If I would have fallen for a Scam I would have been out the money I sold it for, the motorhome would have been gone and I would have paid $5,000 out of my pocket to the person who picked up the motorhome. Cash is king.

I also have used the Leisure Coachworks lights in areas where there is no control of the light using a wall mounted light switch. If you used the same model of light, then I assume you need to leave the wall switch turned on all the time and then turn each light on/off using the controls on the lights. If this is not the case (use the light switch on the light) how do you turn them on/off?

Bravo burl is what a vendor told me was the burl type.

I have a 2002 Monaco Knight. My bay doors have the continuous hinge across the top of the doors. Some of the doors slide forward and rearward when opened and closed and sometimes get into a position where they will not latch. There are no rivets holding individual doors in place (prevent them from moving forward or rearward). It looks like the door trim at the top has been cut with some excess trim on the left and right tops in an attempt to keep the doors spaced apart when the doors are closed. This does not prevent the doors from moving horizontally when opened. Anyone else having this problem and how did you solve it?

I have a 2002 Monaco Knight. My bay doors have the same hinge arrangement as described above. The doors slide forward and rearward when opened and closed and sometimes get into a position where they will not latch. There are no rivets holding individual doors in place (prevent them from moving forward or rearward). Should there be?

As of a couple of hours ago, I got the nuts off. First I built a cut socket/flat stock welded tool. It fit well but I am not a good enough welder and the 2 parts broke apart. Next I took my 1 1/8" box wrench and heat straightened the head. I next became friends with my grinder and thinned the metal at the end as well as the thickness of the handle. By putting upward pressure on the wrench with a pry bar I was able to break free and remove the nuts. To aid whoever does this job next time I plan on replacing the nuts with ones with almost no rounding of the outside so a wrench will be able to get a good bite on the nut. I also plan on adding some washers under the nuts so they will be more accessible. I have lots of room between the end of the stud and the end of the nut so washers will not be a problem. After testing my welding skills, I doubt I should try a cutting torch in such a confined space. I just went to a lot of work to fix the motorhome, no sense in burning it down.

I still have to try the solution but I called gdroberson and he told me about how he did it. He also told me about a youtube video showing how to make a special tool to help with the process. I have to build a tool to do the job but others have done it successfully so I expect I will be too. Thanks for all the help.

I appreciate the good ideas but I am also hoping to find someone who has actually changed the air bags mounted in this same method. I do not know if the nut is frozen or not since I can not get a wrench on it. The bolt is recessed so far in that I doubt that I can get a socket wrench on the crows foot but I will look closer at that solution. Even if I can get the nut off using a destructive method I still have to put the new bag back on so I need to have a non-destructive method to tighten the nut.

I know there are many variations of our chassis even within the same year and model. I have a 2002 Monaco Knight I just inherited (along with numerous issues) and I am working down the needs list, fixing as I go. The chassis is similar to an RR4 with Westport front axle. My newest issue is replacing the front air bags/shocks. I purchased a kit from Source Engineering and have the parts on hand. I have viewed many You Tube videos but none of them show the type of airbag mount I have. I have included a picture below to show you what I am faced with. I think the nut is 1 1/8" but I can not get an open or boxed end wrench on it because there is no room behind the nut. The only solution I can see is to remove the 4 bolts holding the axle and lower it enough to clear the nut I have to remove. Before I start that process I thought I would probe the minds of those whom have gone before me to see if there is a better way.

From what I hear you saying is that there is no need to manually let air out of the radiator system. The air will naturally work its way up to the radiator fill (surge) tank and all I have to do is monitor the level in that tank. This is what I would expect to do on a car also but in a car the radiator cap is at the top of the radiator. On my RV there is no top opening on the main radiator. I have already run the RV on a short trip and gotten the engine up to operating temperature with the heater running so I should be good to go. I have a couple hundred mile trip next week so I will continue to monitor it during that trip.

I have a 2002 Monaco Knight with an ISC 315 engine. I recently had to replace the radiator fill tank so I drained all the radiator fluid out (at least as much as would come out the petcock). I replaced the fill tank and refilled the cooling system. I watched a video on youtube which recommended getting the air out of the cooling system but I am a loss as to the best place to let it out or if it is even needed on my system.