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Gweedo

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Gweedo last won the day on December 17 2023

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About Gweedo

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  • FirstName
    Pat
  • Make
    Holiday Ramber
  • Model
    Endeavor
  • Year
    2007
  • City & State
    Prescott Valley, Arizona

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  1. Clean all the connections and use dialectic grease on them
  2. Good morning, it all finished. I will attach several pics of what I did. First the new one would not fit where the old one sat, much wider n so only had one spot. (Dry fit first). I ran the power wire out n up the frame n tied to existing wire looms. In the battery compartment I allowed extra wire so the batt tray can be pulled out. I ran the ground just out the compartment in front of the rear tire, all wire was in cased in plastic loom n then completely tapped. I ran automotive grommets in the steel where the looms exit, I siliconed each exit point n painted the ground. I now place my hose where the old macerater was. On the hose I installed the protective cover n heat shrunk them to each fitting (macerater n dump connector) I got this ideas off you tube. After sliding on protective cover I slid a 2” heat shrink covering the protective cover n the fitting. The shrink has a glue inside so should hold everything tight. TIP: before shrinking put the hose on the attachments so the hose doesn’t shrink n let it cool before removing). I stretched the hose n added 12” of protective cover to allow for bends. The instructions are great for wiring super simple. I used a 7mm wrench to insert the wire into the plastic casing it allows you to easily slide the wire inside. I used heat shrink butt connectors n the covered them with heat shrink I used yellow tape on the outside to mark where I have a butt connector in the casing I bolted the macerater to the floor, cut a small circle in the underneath foam n then painted the bolts. “Steven’P. I didn’t have to remove the panel as mine sat below. If you look at the pick of my panel to the left of the faucet you will see two cuts. Looks like the PO used a dremel n made an access to replace the water hose. Good idea if that’s all you’re replacing. Otherwise the panel looks intimidating but it’s just a matter of loosening the facia screws. hopefully the pics will make sense of things. Any questions just ask away. Unfortunately for me my water leak fix didn’t work on my drain so I’ll try one more thing, if it doesn’t work I’ll put a diverted tray in. I couldn’t get the tank fitting off without removing the tank. Dripping about 2 tablespoons last night. One day if I feel ambitious enough I’ll remove the tank but for now I’ll live with it, too many other priorities.
  3. So I had the same problem with it taking too long. I watched a video on the new turbo n it took less than 2 minutes to empty the tank. Looking inside the old one, lots of hair (I wondered where mine went) definitely slows them down. Others have taken them apart and clean them. I got the new one on sale and after reading the reviews n seeing the real time test I was sold. I hated waiting forever to empty, I could finish a cup of coffee. Best thing is no messing with hose just push the button. I hope to be finished tomorrow, I noticed a leak from the water tank drain union. When I blew out the compartment water came out the other side. apparently it has been dripping extremely slowly, I’m hoping the water I blew is residual. Drying everything up tonight n cross my fingers in the morning that it’s not the tank. I had to fix that before installing the new macerater. At least all the wiring is finished, that was fun. I’ll update soon with pics as well
  4. In doing some research it appears the wire can be used
  5. I ordered up some mesh for the hose. Got the old macerator out very easy, but he new one can only go in one place. anyone happen to know electrical wire. The batt wire is a 10 awg 600v mtv or mtw. I have 10 gauge 600v mtw or thhn It’s not quite as flexible. Will this work? I bought this before I opened the box. both r 105 degrees dry or 75 degrees wet macerator is oil resistant. Just don’t know the difference in mtw n awm Difference I see is the one I bought has thhn n awm not mtw
  6. Thnx. Good idea I’ll replace the water hose as well n c if there is anything to lube while I’m in there
  7. Good morning all, I am upgrading my current sanicon to the new turbo model. Are there any tricks or concerns to dismantling the wet bay, or anyone who has done this that can provide any info I should know about. Thanks,
  8. Thanks for the advice, The RCA jacks that plug into the amp from the stereo has a ground loop isolator on it. I'll check further into the amp light, it may just be showing it has power and it may not be on until the stereo is on. Regarding the lights, that will be a project I'd like to do anyhow. Good point looking to see if the wires/ground are making contact with something, I did straighten out a lot of the mess. Thnx again!!
  9. Okay so I went out to look and the amp power light is on! I never notice because it sits below the shelf that hold the control box, in fact I didn’t even realize I had an amp until I started dealing Crutchfield. So we have owned the coach for 8 years which means that has been on 24/7, I’m surprised it is still alive! I’m pretty mechanically inclined but know just the basics with electrical. I guess I’ll have to figure out how the PO wired it in and solve this issue. I’ll attach a couple pics, let me know what you think if you know. Thanks!!!!
  10. Thank you for the reply. I guess a filter is what I should have said. There is an amp n if I remove the speaker jacks to the amp the noise goes away. I don’t know if the amp is powered when the stereo is off but I’ll check it. I still use the dash switch to turn off the stereo like the old stereo did I used the ground the old stereo used. I tried another direct chassis ground and it didn’t make a difference Crutchfield suggested a filter on the power lines n c what happens But now I’m curious regarding the amp. I remember hearing a small buzzing nose in a speaker a few months ago but that went away.
  11. Good idea, I’ve been thinking of doing that anyhow. Thnx
  12. Good morning all, I installed a new dash stereo and it sounds great however, I began having static through a front speaker when the unit is off with the fluorescent lights on. If i turn of the light the static goes away. The stereo jacks has a ground loop isolator in line. I contacted Crutchfield and they suggested trying a direct ground, no change then suggested a power resistor or something similar on the battery line and if that didn't work to try on the power line. Anyone experience this and if so what did you do. I did notice one of the smaller fluorescent lights needs to be replaced, so I'm not certain if a ballast on the lights could cause this or what. Thnx
  13. Hello All. I’m installing my new stereo. I found a wire not being used in the dash. It’s marked 12v neg aux. I’m hoping this is a spare negative wire. I used it temporarily to test the stereo n it worked. Just want to confirm I can use this as a negative ground. The stereo says ground to chasis. thnx
  14. Thnx. I found the two fuses and actually got the stereo to work properly n play dvd’s. Problem now is, it keeps making a noise when shut off. It’s the memory portion. So I started wiring in the new stereo, should be done tomorrow.
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