ready2retire59

The switch arrived today. While the switch was an electrical direct replacement, physically it was not. The hole had to be elongated slightly and then everything fit and worked perfectly! Thanks again for all the input. Tony Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram

Probably depends on where and who was putting in the bases and which models. Switch is still not here. Only concern would be the physical fit. It's supposed to be a direct replacement even though they are physically different. We'll see! Tony

Well I finally got back to the the under cabinet light problem. True to everyone's suggestions, side trim and side panels in the cabinet had to be removed before I could get to the base. By peeling up the carpet material in a corner I was able to expose a couple of brad nails. By chiseling the wood around those 2 nails, I was able to pry the panel up past those 2 nails enough to get under the panel and continue to pry all around the base until it was free. Once exposed the electrical problem was easy; a separated wire from a wire nut. Both lights worked as they should. Now I had to remove all the brad nails (guessing about 100) that were still embedded in the frame of the cabinet. During this process, I must have jostled the light switch because when I checked the light operation before I closed it up, neither light worked. It turns out that the potentiometer in the switch assembly broke apart. That switch is no longer available and from information from this forum, I have the new switch, LOW Side Dimmer Assembly 15 Amp (Three wire) from Northwest RV Supply SKU: AH-SLD-5-LS01, on the way. When it gets here, I'll continue the post. https://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/low-side-dimmer-assembly-15-amp-three-wire/#:~:text=SWITCHES %26 BEZELS-,LOW Side Dimmer Assembly 15 Amp (Three wire),-%2429.80 Tony '30 Windsor, '05 Ram

Thanks for all the replies and good suggestions. I was busy changing the front door awning fabric and couldn't get back sooner. I'll try some (or all) of the suggestions and see how I do. I'll get back with the results. Tony '03 Windsor, '05 Ram

Does anyone have any experience in removing the inside of the base in the overhead cabinet over the couch in a 2003 Windsor or similar cabinets in other models. I need to get into the area to repair a wire leading to one of the dome lights under the cabinet. The other light works and I can ohm out the defective wire to the non-working light. I tried to fish another wire between lights but there are too many obstructions in the way. The inside base seems to be very thin plywood covered with a cloth/thin carpet material. The base is mounted pretty securely and cannot be easily pried up. I thought I would check to see if anyone has any thoughts before I rip up the cloth to see how the plywood is secured. Thanks for any info. Tony Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram

Thanks for the replies. I'll give 12.0 a try and then turn it off at "absorb" or "float". Tony

Jim, Do you use the auto start for the generator on the RC7and if so, what settings do you use since you can't count on the SOC from the RC7? Thanks Tony

Jim, Did you ever get an answer to your question about how the RC7 GS works? Mine is doing the same thing with the operation of the generator. The SOC at the RC7 GS starts dropping as soon as I unplug from shore power. If the generator is activated either manually or with the auto start (at 60% SOC) the SOC doesn't climb higher than approx 75% SOC. I have an ammeter on the panel near the RC7 so I can tell that the converter(charger) is either at absorb or at float charge but the SOC does not reflect the status of the batteries. When I'm plugged into shore power (I'm plugged in always at the house) the SOC climbs to 100% after a short time. I have the BIRD system and it does NOT allow the battery banks to combine when the generator is activated. The BIRD combines the batteries when the engine is running and when there is shore power. I've got 4 liquid cell house batteries that are 4 years old. I thought that one of the 4 might be bad and drawing down the bank so I isolated each half of the bank at a time and the results were the same. When you installed the Bluesea did that fix the problem with the SOC? Did you also install the shunt that others are talking about and if so how does the shunt operate with the gen autostart in the RC7? Thank you Tony

Jim, When you installed the Bluesea ML-ACR, was the wire you ran to the front of the coach only needed to accommodate the 3-way function of the switch, force or or force off? Can you just use the on/off boost switch wire going to the relay to force it on when needed. The BIRD setup that I have does not allow the chassis batteries to charge when the generator is running. This Bluesea ML-ACR looks like it WILL allow the chassis batteries to charge with the generator. Is this true? Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram

Tom and Jim, Thanks again for all the help and information for a total replacement of the system or the Parker version of the motor/pump if it's ever needed in the future. Tony

Tom and jacwjames (sorry I don't know your name), Some of the original pics in this thread are the original setup of the motor and solenoids and are hard to make out. The second set of pics are the new solenoids mounted on the strap that mounts them to the motor, the solenoids mounted on the motor and wired. The third set of pics are a top down view of the rebuilt setup once I realized that I can use the genny cavity to see everything better. Two of the motor leads go directly to the output of the solenoids, blue wire to extend, green to retract. The 3rd wire (black) goes directly to hard chassis ground. The control wires for the solenoids come from the side panel (and drivers console inside) under the driver to provide the 12v to determine which solenoid is activated. There is no connection to a control board like I have for the house slides. I'll repost the pics here again to make it easier to follow. I'm also posting a "hand" generated circuit of the system as I see it. Original solenoids with broken large (heavy gauge wire) terminal. I broke it trying to remove wire. 2 original solenoids Blue wire from output of solenoid to motor (extend). Yellow wire from output of solenoid to motor (retract). Also control wires from switch(s) to smaller terminals of solenoids. New solenoids mounted on strap before reassembly. Notice different type of solenoids from originals. Side mounting brackets instead of bottom mounted. Installed and wired. Notice heavy gauge wire on top large terminal daisy chained to the other solenoid's large terminal. The outputs of the solenoids go directly to the motor; Blue to extend, Green to retract. Top view of motor, pump, reservoir, new solenoids (bottom sides) and wiring. Notice blue green and black wires going into the motor. Only 2 hoses coming from the pump to the ram. No lock block. This is my version of what the circuit looks like. Hope this helps. Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram

Thanks for the info on the post and the motor. BTW, on my unit, there is no interlock to stop the motor from operating when the engine is running.

We've owned the MH since '05. The first owner had it for about 9 months, then upgraded. All the wiring seems to have been imbedded in the black spray foam that the factory used for insulation. I can't see the dealer making these kinds of modifications in the short time that it was at his site. I can't find any prints on this and when I bought the MH, I tried to buy a book of prints/schematics, but they (factory) said the only book available was for a 2004 Windsor. I questioned how do you build a unit without prints. No answer. Now I can see how. You design it as you go. I did buy the book anyway, and sometimes it is helpful. Don't get me wrong. We love our MH and it's been very good to us. It's just that when things go wrong it's frustrating when you can't find documentation for your specific unit. I have the same module that you mentioned in the back side compartment next to the engine to control the house slides. They will NOT operate when the engine is running. I never checked if the gen slide will operate with the engine running. Will do that tomorrow. I appreciate all of the help that you folks at Monacoers have provided over the years. Thanks again Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram

The saga continues. I realized that when the generator is extended there is a huge open cavity next to the motor/pump. In this cavity one can kneel on the ground and look directly onto the motor/pump. So here are some more pictures. The 1st pic is the label on top of the motor that is badly worn. I can make out "(something) Division" on top and the number "639875" and "108AM25-FLB 3H1". It also shows (almost) the 3 wires going into the motor blue, green and black ground and the shiny backs of the 2 new solenoids. These other pics are not too different views of the backs of the solenoids and the wires that go into the motor blue, green and black ground wire. The smaller green wire to the left of the motor's blue wire is the ground wire from the front door step motor and not part of the slide circuit. The assembly is about 16 to18 inches long. It looks like the wires are going into the motor and not the pump assembly so my guess; it is a reversing motor with the associated controlling solenoids. These pics are to help if anyone recognizes this motor/pump and has more information about it. Thank you. Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram

There are no prints that I have seen. The only info on the motor is a label that is totally worn and can't be read. Each wire going into the motor/pump activates the slide in a direction (blue to extend, green to retract plus third wire tied to hard chassis ground). I can't tell if the motor is reversing or if there is a valve assembly inside. My guess is a motor that has the 2 winding as you said and they are using 2 solenoids that are selected by the control switch(s) in the compartment to select which winding will be activated. I guess they are using the 2 solenoids instead of the single 6 terminal. The good thing is that this was a relatively easy fix using off the shelf parts. If the motor goes bad that will be a different story! Thanks for all the input. Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram