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ready2retire59

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Everything posted by ready2retire59

  1. The switch arrived today. While the switch was an electrical direct replacement, physically it was not. The hole had to be elongated slightly and then everything fit and worked perfectly! Thanks again for all the input. Tony Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  2. Probably depends on where and who was putting in the bases and which models. Switch is still not here. Only concern would be the physical fit. It's supposed to be a direct replacement even though they are physically different. We'll see! Tony
  3. Well I finally got back to the the under cabinet light problem. True to everyone's suggestions, side trim and side panels in the cabinet had to be removed before I could get to the base. By peeling up the carpet material in a corner I was able to expose a couple of brad nails. By chiseling the wood around those 2 nails, I was able to pry the panel up past those 2 nails enough to get under the panel and continue to pry all around the base until it was free. Once exposed the electrical problem was easy; a separated wire from a wire nut. Both lights worked as they should. Now I had to remove all the brad nails (guessing about 100) that were still embedded in the frame of the cabinet. During this process, I must have jostled the light switch because when I checked the light operation before I closed it up, neither light worked. It turns out that the potentiometer in the switch assembly broke apart. That switch is no longer available and from information from this forum, I have the new switch, LOW Side Dimmer Assembly 15 Amp (Three wire) from Northwest RV Supply SKU: AH-SLD-5-LS01, on the way. When it gets here, I'll continue the post. https://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/low-side-dimmer-assembly-15-amp-three-wire/#:~:text=SWITCHES %26 BEZELS-,LOW Side Dimmer Assembly 15 Amp (Three wire),-%2429.80 Tony '30 Windsor, '05 Ram
  4. Thanks for all the replies and good suggestions. I was busy changing the front door awning fabric and couldn't get back sooner. I'll try some (or all) of the suggestions and see how I do. I'll get back with the results. Tony '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  5. Does anyone have any experience in removing the inside of the base in the overhead cabinet over the couch in a 2003 Windsor or similar cabinets in other models. I need to get into the area to repair a wire leading to one of the dome lights under the cabinet. The other light works and I can ohm out the defective wire to the non-working light. I tried to fish another wire between lights but there are too many obstructions in the way. The inside base seems to be very thin plywood covered with a cloth/thin carpet material. The base is mounted pretty securely and cannot be easily pried up. I thought I would check to see if anyone has any thoughts before I rip up the cloth to see how the plywood is secured. Thanks for any info. Tony Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  6. Thanks for the replies. I'll give 12.0 a try and then turn it off at "absorb" or "float". Tony
  7. Jim, Do you use the auto start for the generator on the RC7and if so, what settings do you use since you can't count on the SOC from the RC7? Thanks Tony
  8. Jim, Did you ever get an answer to your question about how the RC7 GS works? Mine is doing the same thing with the operation of the generator. The SOC at the RC7 GS starts dropping as soon as I unplug from shore power. If the generator is activated either manually or with the auto start (at 60% SOC) the SOC doesn't climb higher than approx 75% SOC. I have an ammeter on the panel near the RC7 so I can tell that the converter(charger) is either at absorb or at float charge but the SOC does not reflect the status of the batteries. When I'm plugged into shore power (I'm plugged in always at the house) the SOC climbs to 100% after a short time. I have the BIRD system and it does NOT allow the battery banks to combine when the generator is activated. The BIRD combines the batteries when the engine is running and when there is shore power. I've got 4 liquid cell house batteries that are 4 years old. I thought that one of the 4 might be bad and drawing down the bank so I isolated each half of the bank at a time and the results were the same. When you installed the Bluesea did that fix the problem with the SOC? Did you also install the shunt that others are talking about and if so how does the shunt operate with the gen autostart in the RC7? Thank you Tony
  9. Jim, When you installed the Bluesea ML-ACR, was the wire you ran to the front of the coach only needed to accommodate the 3-way function of the switch, force or or force off? Can you just use the on/off boost switch wire going to the relay to force it on when needed. The BIRD setup that I have does not allow the chassis batteries to charge when the generator is running. This Bluesea ML-ACR looks like it WILL allow the chassis batteries to charge with the generator. Is this true? Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  10. Tom and Jim, Thanks again for all the help and information for a total replacement of the system or the Parker version of the motor/pump if it's ever needed in the future. Tony
  11. Tom and jacwjames (sorry I don't know your name), Some of the original pics in this thread are the original setup of the motor and solenoids and are hard to make out. The second set of pics are the new solenoids mounted on the strap that mounts them to the motor, the solenoids mounted on the motor and wired. The third set of pics are a top down view of the rebuilt setup once I realized that I can use the genny cavity to see everything better. Two of the motor leads go directly to the output of the solenoids, blue wire to extend, green to retract. The 3rd wire (black) goes directly to hard chassis ground. The control wires for the solenoids come from the side panel (and drivers console inside) under the driver to provide the 12v to determine which solenoid is activated. There is no connection to a control board like I have for the house slides. I'll repost the pics here again to make it easier to follow. I'm also posting a "hand" generated circuit of the system as I see it. Original solenoids with broken large (heavy gauge wire) terminal. I broke it trying to remove wire. 2 original solenoids Blue wire from output of solenoid to motor (extend). Yellow wire from output of solenoid to motor (retract). Also control wires from switch(s) to smaller terminals of solenoids. New solenoids mounted on strap before reassembly. Notice different type of solenoids from originals. Side mounting brackets instead of bottom mounted. Installed and wired. Notice heavy gauge wire on top large terminal daisy chained to the other solenoid's large terminal. The outputs of the solenoids go directly to the motor; Blue to extend, Green to retract. Top view of motor, pump, reservoir, new solenoids (bottom sides) and wiring. Notice blue green and black wires going into the motor. Only 2 hoses coming from the pump to the ram. No lock block. This is my version of what the circuit looks like. Hope this helps. Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  12. Thanks for the info on the post and the motor. BTW, on my unit, there is no interlock to stop the motor from operating when the engine is running.
  13. We've owned the MH since '05. The first owner had it for about 9 months, then upgraded. All the wiring seems to have been imbedded in the black spray foam that the factory used for insulation. I can't see the dealer making these kinds of modifications in the short time that it was at his site. I can't find any prints on this and when I bought the MH, I tried to buy a book of prints/schematics, but they (factory) said the only book available was for a 2004 Windsor. I questioned how do you build a unit without prints. No answer. Now I can see how. You design it as you go. I did buy the book anyway, and sometimes it is helpful. Don't get me wrong. We love our MH and it's been very good to us. It's just that when things go wrong it's frustrating when you can't find documentation for your specific unit. I have the same module that you mentioned in the back side compartment next to the engine to control the house slides. They will NOT operate when the engine is running. I never checked if the gen slide will operate with the engine running. Will do that tomorrow. I appreciate all of the help that you folks at Monacoers have provided over the years. Thanks again Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  14. The saga continues. I realized that when the generator is extended there is a huge open cavity next to the motor/pump. In this cavity one can kneel on the ground and look directly onto the motor/pump. So here are some more pictures. The 1st pic is the label on top of the motor that is badly worn. I can make out "(something) Division" on top and the number "639875" and "108AM25-FLB 3H1". It also shows (almost) the 3 wires going into the motor blue, green and black ground and the shiny backs of the 2 new solenoids. These other pics are not too different views of the backs of the solenoids and the wires that go into the motor blue, green and black ground wire. The smaller green wire to the left of the motor's blue wire is the ground wire from the front door step motor and not part of the slide circuit. The assembly is about 16 to18 inches long. It looks like the wires are going into the motor and not the pump assembly so my guess; it is a reversing motor with the associated controlling solenoids. These pics are to help if anyone recognizes this motor/pump and has more information about it. Thank you. Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  15. There are no prints that I have seen. The only info on the motor is a label that is totally worn and can't be read. Each wire going into the motor/pump activates the slide in a direction (blue to extend, green to retract plus third wire tied to hard chassis ground). I can't tell if the motor is reversing or if there is a valve assembly inside. My guess is a motor that has the 2 winding as you said and they are using 2 solenoids that are selected by the control switch(s) in the compartment to select which winding will be activated. I guess they are using the 2 solenoids instead of the single 6 terminal. The good thing is that this was a relatively easy fix using off the shelf parts. If the motor goes bad that will be a different story! Thanks for all the input. Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  16. Well everything is back together and working properly. The 1st picture shows the solenoids mounted onto the strap before mounting the assembly onto the motor. The mountings on the solenoids are side mount brackets mounts instead of the original bottom mount brackets. These solenoids have a higher amp rating than the bottom mounts and with the side mounts, it makes it easier to see and mount all the connections. All the wires were long enough to reach their new positions. The solenoids are available on Amazon at: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FJLJKWQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Thank you all for your input and if anyone else has this arrangement for the gen slide control, I hope these pictures and information help. Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  17. Here are some updates to the generator slide control. Before I explain the pics, I'll tell what I found for the circuitry. One of the solenoids, the one mounted on the side of the motor/pump, controls the slide extend. The other solenoid, mounted on the top of the motor/pump, controls the slide retract. A high power DC voltage cable is brought to share between each of the solenoids input contactor terminals (large studs). The output contactor terminals (large studs) of the solenoids each go to one of the three wires going to the motor/pump; the side mounted solenoid (extend) goes to the blue wire, the top mounted solenoid (retract) goes to the green wire. The third wire going to the motor/pump is tied directly to chassis ground. The control wires (small studs) come from the manual switches located in the outside compartment under the drivers seat and at the driver's control panel. The switch(s) brings low power 12V to the side mounted solenoid to control the slide extend or to the top mounted solenoid to control the slide retract. The solenoids share a common negative wire for the other small control stud on each solenoid. I can't tell what the make of the motor/pump is. The only label is on the top of unit and it is heavily worn. I don't know if the wires going into the motor/pump is to forward or reverse the motor or if they control valves inside. There are only 2 hoses coming from the motor/pump and there is no valve block as mentioned. I've ordered replacement solenoids and they should be here tomorrow. All the terminals are either cleaned or replaced and ready for the new solenoids. I'll take more pics during and after installation. When everything works I'll post the part numbers of the solenoids. Thank you for all the input. Hope this helps This picture shows the side mounted solenoid with the shared high power terminal already broke off (large terminal on left). The large terminal on right shows blue wire going to the motor/pump. One of the control wires is seen in the front (small stud). Notice the hose clamp (strap) at the bottom of the solenoid on the motor/pump. This shows again the side mounted solenoid. Follow the heavy wire to the top mounted solenoid and the heavier DC power line mounted on the same large stud of the top mounted solenoid. This is another face on view of the side solenoid complete with broken stud , blue wire to motor, and control wires. The left control wire is the black wire from the manual switch(s). Upper left shows the top mounted solenoid with the heavy DC wires (large stud), Green wire (can't see the color) to the motor (large stud) and yellow control wire from manual switch(s). Both solenoids are mounted on the large hose clamp and strapped to the motor.
  18. It is a hydraulic system. I'll try to take some better pics tomorrow. I'll also check the control wires, where they come from and their voltages when the switch is activated in either direction. I'll try to see what motor and pump it is. The motor has three wires going into it. One to ground. Each of the other 2 wires go to the activated side (large terminals) of each solenoid. The large DC power wire (12V) is shared to each of the input side (large terminal) of each solenoid. It seems like one solenoid is to extend and the other solenoid is to retract. I'll check further tomorrow. Again this whole circuit system is strapped to the motor with a large hose clamp. Hopefully tomorrows pics will help explain all this. Thanks you. Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  19. Thank you for the quick response. The photos I have of the actual solenoids are hard to see. I found a solenoid on line that looks very similar. There are 2 of them that are strapped onto the motor with a large hose clamp. One operates to extend the slide and the other operates to retract. The wiring looks like a very heavy dc(12v) cable that is shared to, one of each, of the larger terminals. The other larger terminals feed the motor wires. The smaller contacts (the control) is probably fed by the switch in the outside under driver compartment and by the inside switch at drivers control panel. If I can't come up with the OEM part numbers for the solenoids, I will try these solenoids as replacements. Thank you again. Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  20. Dose anyone know the part number and where to get replacement solenoids that control the generator slide. They are mounted on the pump and there are 2 of them. The slide stopped working going "out" while it was halfway out. Luckily it still worked going "in". After spraying the contacts on the solenoids (that had corrosion on them), the gen slide worked normally. So to prevent a future fail, I started taking the contacts apart to clean them. Unfortunately one of the contact studs broke off and now the solenoid needs to be replaced. I looked through the parts list and could not find anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  21. Thank you for the quick reply. While following this topic on another thread it showed that Lippert site. At $23.95 each times 6 (3 per side), I guess it's better than the $1500 to totally replace as was talked about earlier. Actually I haven't been able to find where to buy the total replacements if I wanted to. I haven't taken the other side down yet, but since I'm taking it down anyway to clean and lube as suggested, I'll change those springs too. Has anyone found the replacement part # for the little allen head screws that hold the cover on? I stripped the head on one of them trying to take it out. I was able to get it out with one of my few successes with an "easy out". Tony Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  22. Found the problem on my slide lock '03 Windsor. Broken springs. Does anyone know where to get replacements. Can't find anything online for Dewald slide lock. Thank you Tony Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram
  23. i replaced the closet sliding doors latches with this thing called "burglabar". It came off once after about a year (their glue failed). Put it back on with super glue. It's been fine ever since (3 or more years). Once installed you just flip it to hold each door against each other. Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Burglabar-Pack-Sliding-Basement-Windows/dp/B00I8OUX4S/ref=asc_df_B00I8OUX4S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167142538498&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13747565175618124699&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004840&hvtargid=pla-315659045463&psc=1 Tony and Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram 1500 toad
  24. I would recommend getting the braided flexible extensions that mount onto the center hub of the rear wheels and putting the sensors there. On the front, you can mount them right on the valve stem. On the toad, you can mount them on the rubber valve stems. The new ones are light enough. The old ones needed a solid valve stem to mount to. Tony C.
  25. We have used the TST system since we bought our motorhome in 2005. We are on our 3rd generation system and are very happy with its performance. You can buy as many sensors as you need as Steven P says. They are easy to program and they do monitor the tire temperature and pressure as they rise going down the road. Be sure to buy the latest version since the monitors are not upward/downward compatible. The sensors will work with either monitor, but if you have an older monitor, it will display errors when a new version monitor comes in range. This happened to me several times with the older monitor when I was parked and when going down the road. The company explained that the newer monitor would cause this problem and their only solution was for me to buy a newer monitor. After much complaining about how can you design a new monitor that is not downward compatible with your previous model, I broke down and spent the less than $100 for a new monitor. I'm glad I did and everything is working fine now. Tony & Doreen Chiulli '03 Windsor, '05 Ram Toad
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