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dandick66

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Everything posted by dandick66

  1. I didn’t stay at a Holiday Inn, but I did help Al Gore invent the Internet. Haha. (I hope that was acceptable, Tom.) can’t remember where I found that file to download. I might have got it from Medallion. I understand that you want to hear the alarm, but remember, that alarm will go off for a variety of scenarios. Driving back from Florida in the rain a few years ago my entry door step switch got wet and set off the alarm. Listening to the beeping every 2 seconds for hours on end is not pleasant. Another time I had the “yellow triangle “ illuminate and alarm sound. It cleared and then did it again. I discovered that my ACM (after treatment control module) was on the fritz. It wasn’t a critical problem, but again, that alarm was driving me crazy for hours. I contacted Medallion several times by phone and email, but no one responded to the emails or returned the calls. I finally got a human and explained my problem. She got someone who was somewhat familiar with the system, but he said the guy who did all the work was no longer with the company. He said he’d send me what info he could find and that he would contact the other guy. Well, I never heard from the “other guy”. I’ll go through my emails and find what they sent me. As far as buying another board, if it was me, I wouldn’t do it. There are a bunch of other options to get all of the data the Medallion displays, and more. I started out with Scangauge D, then purchased BlueFire. I also have the Servicemaxx software. That is the official Navistar diagnostic software. It has more bells and whistles than you can imagine. You do have the Maxxforce 10, right?
  2. Spray the fittings with penetrating oil and let it soak in before you tackle the removal.
  3. There has to be wires going to the back of the toe kick. That is what turns the vacuum on and off. Several questions… When you unscrew the toe kick, how far can you pull it away from the wall? Can you get to the back of the toe kick from another part of the coach? On my Diplomat I think I can access the wires from the amidships bathroom. If not, I think I could remove the convenience center control panel and see the wires in that cavity. If I understand your post correctly, you were able to find the 2 wires that run from the vacuum to the toe kick, but could not unscrew the wires. You tried a multi meter on the wires, but no readings. What mode was your multi meter in - volts, ohms, amps? Try this… Unplug the vacuum. Set your meter to read ohms or continuity. Touch the leads together and confirm that you read 0, or hear a beep/tone. Connect the meter leads across the wires that you found. Make sure you have a good, clean connection to the wires, not the insulation. If the toe kick switch is stuck closed then you should read 0. If it reads open “OL” on the display, then the toe kick is not what is keeping the vacuum running.
  4. I actually put some electrical tape over mine because it was so loud. It still is plenty loud. I found the attached Medallion diagram. Looks like the buzzer is pin 9 on detail G. Just to make sure it’s the right pin, I would backprobe it with a test light and turn the ignition switch on and off. See if the light comes on and off, then you’ll know you have the right pin. You could probably just clip the wire and then connect your new buzzer. I would not try to unsolder the buzzer from the PCB. 2012 Diplomat Medallion(1) 1539-10233-19.pdf
  5. You could do that, but if that works then you will still have to get to the kickplate wire/switch.
  6. It might be the kickplate switch. There has to be a wire from the kickplate switch to the vacuum. If you disconnect that wire does it turn off?
  7. Yes, it lifts off. Lift it up and towards the windshield.
  8. What happens when you turn the key on? Do you hear an alarm/buzzer/annunciator? If you do, then your problem is with the air sensor system l. If you don’t, then your problem is more than likely the buzzer/annunciator. I looked up the 2012 Ambassador brochure and the dash is identical to my Diplomat. That means you do indeed have the Medallion system. The alarm should go off when you turn the key on. It will also go on if you open the door with the engine running. There are other situations that make it come on - high temperature, engine warning, etc. Like I posted above, you need to determine if your problem is the alarm/buzzer or the air sensors before you start digging into the dash. The alarm/beeper/annunciator is surface mounted to the PCB. You could probably unsolder it, but if it were me, I’d clip the wire at the connector and wire in a new buzzer/light combination device.
  9. My 2012 Diplomat has the low pressure alarm. Your problem might be the alarm itself, not a sensor. Do you get an alarm (beeping sound) when you turn the ignition switch on? If so, your alarm is working. When you start the engine and the air is low, the Medallion display should alternate between “Front Air Low” and “Rear Air Low”. Do you get those readings? The alarm for the Medallion system is on a PCB behind the instrument panel.
  10. When mine didn’t work, I dismounted it and took it apart. I rapped on the circuit board relay with a plastic screwdriver handle and it’s been working fine for over 5 years. Try that and see if it works.
  11. So how are you getting the engine to shut off? Are you connected to shore power? If so, try unplugging and see what happens.
  12. Well, if it still dinged with those disconnected, then it’s probably not that relay. Still won’t hurt to try it, though.
  13. Is the dash dinging with both of those relays disconnected?
  14. Ok, so that second to last relay might be bad. Try switching the connectors of those 2 relays. In other words plug the inboard most connector to the second to the last relay and plug that relays connector to the inboard most relay. If the gauges and ignition switch works, then we’ve isolated the problem. If that relay is bad, the engine may not start, so don’t get alarmed. Post the results.
  15. Ok, I think we may have some progress. Try reconnecting one of those relays and see if the coach acts “normal”. If not, disconnect that one and reconnect the other one and see what happens. You may have a bad relay. This will help us isolate which of those 2 relays is potentially bad. Let us know the results.
  16. I had the same experience with the Toyo’s - smelled like a barnyard. I thought I drove through something on the way home from the tire place. Fortunately, the smell went away, but it took well over a year.
  17. Ok. Here is another idea. The attached schematic is from Navistar, not Monaco. I’m assuming you have the Maxxforce 10 engine. Look at the top 2 relays I’ve circled in red. These relays are located in the RRB next to the battery tray (photo attached). Try turning both sets of batteries off and then disconnect the connection to the 2 most inboard relays. Then turn the batteries back on. The engine won’t start, but I’m curious to see if the gauges cycle and everything turns off properly when you turn the key off. Those relays are for the ECM power and ACT power. I know for a fact that if the ECM relay isn’t working properly the engine will shut down. I can’t remember if the gauges 0 out or not. Let us know the results.
  18. Is everything “normal” (coach starts and engine stops) when you turn the house batteries off and leave the chassis batteries on? To me, that’s a critical step in troubleshooting this problem.
  19. If you remove the dash pad/cover you can see the ignition switch. There are 4 wires. As I posted on Saturday, looking down at the switch, the top wire/connector is battery and has 12 volts at all times. To the left of that wire/connector is the “run” terminal. It should have 12 volts when you turn the key on. I would remove that wire and see if you have 12 volts on the terminal with the ignition switch off. If you do, I would say you ignition switch is bad.
  20. If you’re talking about F17, it only has power with ignition off. Since your ignition won’t turn off, you won’t see power at that fuse. What relay did you remove to shut down the engine? Did the gauges return to zero when you did that ? Did you test for power at the switch and wires as I suggested on Saturday? If so, what were the results. You need to start methodically troubleshooting the problem. Start at the ignition switch. As I stated before, it is readily accessible.
  21. It looks like F17 is connected to the NC output of RL4. Since it’s NC, maybe it only get 12 volts when it’s open. Can you get up under the dash with a test light? With the switch off, you should only have power on 1 lug. I just went out and checked mine. F17 has 12 volts with the ignition switch off. When the switch is on, it drops to 0. I lifted the dash pad and the ignition switch is readily accessible. There are only 4 wires on it. Looking from the top, the top terminal is battery and should have 12 volts at all times. The terminal to the left is ignition and should get 12 volts when you turn the switch on. Have you tested that? Alternatively, you could pull all 4 wires and check continuity between the top and left connector. Switch off should show and open, switch on should show a short.
  22. I have a 2012 Diplomat, so more than likely the wiring is the same. When you get the engine to shut off with the disconnect, what happens when you just turn the key to run? (Of course you would need to re-energize cut off switch first). Do you get the gauges to swing, etc? IF you turn the key back to off, do the gauges go to “0”? If it continues to run in the off position, I would leave the switch off and go to the FRB and tap on the top 4 relays with a plastic screwdriver handle and see if the engine stops. VCM (the top right relay) is more than likely the culprit. I’ve attached photos of my FRB and label. I feel your pain about getting anyone to look at it. It seems like no one wants to touch these things.
  23. FWIW, as far as the u-joint and yoke removal, whether you are going to do it yourself or take it somewhere, I would spray some type of rust buster on the threads. Do it every couple of days before you start the project or take it in. Also, you might want to scribe the parts before you take it in. That way you can verify that the shop lined it up properly, before you drive it and feel the vibration. As far as the rust buster, I like to make my own. I used a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. For acetone, I just buy a small bottle of nail polish remover (make sure it says acetone on it) and the cheapest ATF/power steering fluid. This stuff works great l.
  24. Your description is much more eloquent and accurate than mine. If my arms were a couple of feet longer it wouldn’t be a problem.
  25. I tried these on my Diplomat and had the same problem as Martin - they rotated. However, one of mine had a slow leak when it rotated. I finally took them off. Now I just position the tag wheel so I can stick my hand through from aft of the tag or between the tag and drive wheels and remove the TPMS sensor if I need to add air. Kind of a pain, but I rarely have to do it.
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