Tom Cherry

John and I have talked….and he is going to test the inverter using the default or built in parameters…..and will post the results.

You have NEW headlights with the DOT stamp. They were molded and then a UV Resistant Vacuum applied coating, per DOT Specs, applied….as they age, the coating begins to oxidize….. However, you probably will a longer life and not have to clean and coat…, One of the site or reviews or places called it FOUR steps….if you read the PDF, the second step is a TWO part cleaning or polishing. Thus…”four” Semantics. If you follow the 3 steps….same as we have posted for 15 years. The “oxidizer” removal (careful….not get on paint) is nothing more than a solvent….as in Deet. The second step…lf you do the first step correctly, you may not have streaks….but using the ScratchX cleans them. Then wash and rinse… the kit has two different steps….thus, 4 distinct steps…. The Third Step is the protectant . There is nothing unique or magical in the first two steps….use their kit or Deet and ScratchX….you have cleaned off the haze or the oxidized layer. NOW….the real question. Is the $18 Kit have some special or magical protectant that will last longer than Aerospace 303? That I don’t know….what do the ratings say? My point….if you contaminate the special Cerrakote Protectant with 303….will or may shorten the life, From my background in surface prep and plastic molding and vacuum coating, if there is a proprietary protectant that crosslinks to the compound that is in step 2….then it would be highly inadvisable to adulterate it and not get the life that the kit says. BUT if folks say it only lasts 2 months or so….then the DEET method is easier and cheaper. FWIW. I am NOW at almost 6 years on the 3M film that I had Dazzling Detail put (a $20 tip) on my headlights….. therefore a REAL UV resistant film works….there are kits you can buy. There are clearcoat kits that you spray. But, if the original UV vacuum coating is gone….then in 30 days….they haze… Hope this clarifies it….

Go to THIS topic. I posted a link close to the “top” for the 2003 Dynasty complete set of prints. Click on the link….it is in there and you can print of save as a PDF. There is a GREAT index in the front…..easy to follow and then look at the page number.

There is a TECH button thqt gives the Magnum folks info. Do the hard reset. Nothing hooked up and see it every thing works….then add back in t remote. Only way to find out if the Inverter is OK and or the remote. Better to troubleshoot and isolate the problem rather than throwing $$ and buying things that are not broke.

The entire Dometic (was Duo Therm) control system is a Multiplexed system. There is a two Pair (2 wires per pair) data cable. Looks like a phone cable that runs from a Thermostat to an HVAC unit. The HVAC has 120 VAC for the compressor and motor. There is 12 VDC to power the Thermostat…from the 12 VDC in the control module. One pair of the data cable has 12 VDC. The other pair of cables carries the “Multiplexed Data signal”. There is no hard wiring or a multi wire (like a home thermostat). Just two itty bitty wires from the thermostat that gets a signal from the thermostat and sends instructions to the first HVAC unit. If there are additional units down stream, then one thermostat controls all of them..….as in Zone 1, Zone 2 or additional zones…. You just keep the data cabe going from one HVAC (Control Module) to the nest. That is why one can NOT install a typical RV unit that requires a multi Wire thermostat cable….5 to 7 wires….and they have to be at lease 18 gauge. The data cable is probably 24 Gauyge and you only need one pair of wires…

I'd be reluctant to use it.... THERE IS A SPECIFIC PROTECTANT in the kit....see the STEP 4 instructions. There are volatiles and such in the 303. It works great if you don't do anything but POLISH. The protectant wipes are on of the "UNIQUE" things in the kit. I have seen some bad things happen when you use other products. That is why the kit is so high, $$. But, yours. Once you use the 303, it will probably wash off the special coating. BTW...FWIW.... All that kit does is get you to BARE plastic.... and THEN there is a "Specialty Ceramic Protectant"... As I stated early in the topic, the old fashioned and cheap way is to clean off the brown/yellow oxidized finish with an insect repellant...with a high concentration of DEET. DEET is a powerful "plasticizer" eater upper.... LEARNED THE HARD WAY. BUT, what you are doing is just using a solvent to take off the haze. You can polish or abrade off the out film or use DEET and wipe it of. Probably need to do a little touch up with something like ScatchX. That is NOT a wax. Then you use a mild window cleaner or a little soap and rinse it. NOW, you have a CLEAN unprotected coating. You are basically at Step 3 of the Kit you bought... Then use the 303 and then reapply every one to two months. I'd hold off on the 303 and see how long the special coating or protectant lasts....

The circuit is on the prints. I do NOT think that there is a "Circuit Board". It is strictly switches... and two relays... The prints we have on FILE are the PITS....blame Monaco. However, the shades are pretty much universal. The best print is from a 2003 Dynasty. I have downloaded it and included it. You MIGHT want o download the Dynasty prints....YES...you have a LOT of different stuff. BUT, the common items are the same and the Dynasty prints actually show SCHEMATICS and not "plugs and harnesses. Here is the file. LOOK at the index that someone prepared. Page 99 shows the one that I have pulled before. That is how it works... The logic is a bit contorted (memory), It MAY involve switching Grounds... a COMMON practice with Monaco. But, if you sit down and start to follow it...it makes sense. Here is the Dynasty file... and the printout of page 99 Dual Shades Circuit - Dynasty...and probably OTHERS - Circa 2003.pdf

Back to basics. First, here is an older manual. https://www.bluepacificsolar.com/picture_library/tech-specs/magnum-me-series-installation.pdf Second.... You MAY have an improper setup on the REMOTE...or your REMOTE is flaky and causing things to change. SO...here is what I would do. NO AC or SHORE. Cover your solar panel or remove the battery from the Solar. Turn OFF the HOUSE Battery switch. Then Disconnect the House Battery Positive. Then remove the power (BOTH LEADS) from the Inverter. Pull or remove the three (I think you have 3) phones lines from the Magnum. Should be a Batt Temp Sensor. Remote and Network (that is the AGS if you have one. Let the inverter SIT for around an hour. That dissipates all internal stored charged. This is CALLED, by Magnum a HARD Reset (Restart). DO NOT PLUG BACK IN the Network, Remote or Battery Temperature phone lines. NONE OF THEM....hen reconnect, in reverse order everything. Restore the AC LAST NOW... You need to RESTART the INVERTER. Hold in the power button for a few seconds. It will power UP. OK....as to the cause.... MANY DIFFERENT things. BUT, clearing out the "electronic gremlins" in the Inverter is the FIRST thing...that Magnum will tell you to do. They will go through the SOFT restart...but when a repetitive error occurs, we have found it best to just "SHUT 'ER DOWN". Also Magnum techs say ONE HOUR....not is what is in the manual. NOW...the Inverter has a "Program" of DEFAULT Parameters. You are NOW running on this. They are designed or configured for our MH's. SO....let it run. It WILL charge the batteries. Therefore, NOT having any PHONE lines connected, the Defaults take over. Let the Batteries charge up. How long... Maybe overnight. Then you can test the next morning. IF you kill the AC (unplug from shore), then the Inverter will start to invert...there MAY be a flicker and you lose the Microwave clock...this is normal for one of the defaults... When you do the proper Remote SETUP....the Search Watts is usually turned off. IF all is well. Let it run on batteries for a while....and then back to AC.... You KNOW the Inverter is OK... NEXT....focus on the REMOTE. Here is the FILE that I put together... OK....based on the age and rev level of your remote...not ALL the parameters may be there. SO...plug in the remote. THEN scroll through the parameters and write down (take a picture?) of the settings. Start with the SHORE and then go through the setup. Record for each step. NOW LET IT RUN... Turn OFF the AC and watch it come back on when you apply AC again. It is NORMAL for the Lights NOT to come back on sometimes... SO, you MIGHT have to push the buttons. BTW....you can NEVER turn off the INVTERTER from the remote. In your MH, the Inverter is DIRECTLY connected (via the FUSE...probably a 300 Amp... Folks THINK you can. It remains in STANDBY. The ONLY WAY to turn it off....do the SOFT RESET (hold in the button for almost 30 seconds....it reboots)....AND you have to turn it BACK ON... the Button or switch will NOT do this. You CAN turn off the Charger. Don't ask me....Magnum told me that and said it was a commonly asked question as well as myth... NOW....start to CHECK the remote. Go back THROUGH the setup. Compare what the Remote HAS (Displays) with the Values or Parameters you set. When a Remote gets flaky or has a fault...it will CHANGE the parameters and all sort of "bugs" come to life. I had to replace mine. Many do... NOW...if all is well and you have no issues....let it RUN for a few days. Next...you can plug in the Bat Temp Switch....or you can "MOUNT IT" on the side of the case of the rear battery. When that Thermocouple shorts out....it does STRANGE things to the system. It is strictly a Thermocouple and when it is mounted on the rear negative terminal....if it shorts....it will cause issues. It is SUPPOSED to be electrically isolated and all there is is a Circuit from it to the Inverter and the inverter is reading the THERMOCOUPLE... SO, if you hook it up and problems....either discard or mount on the side (to the case) or get a new one. ODDS ARE, it is NOT the NETWORK cable, assuming you have an AGS. That's the drill. Past that.... when it does it again...shoot a picture of the error code. Call Magnum....they are GREAT. Tell them WHAT you did and such and they will start to trouble shoot. BUT, the above is how you clean things up and they suggest you do that....and then call back.. BTW... The above has "fixed" at least 10 or so inverters that the soft reset and "Gremlins" were in. IF the remote is BAD...,then replace. Mine would reset the voltages and also the size of the battery bank...and then the inverter would sometimes NOT come on when AC was off or vice versa when turning off AC and needing Inverted power. I spent several weeks with Magnum on the phone testing...and this is the gist of what I learned... Good Luck....keep us posted.

I can't recall what bolts are used on the Roadmaster... PROBABLY a Grade 8. That has 5 marks. If it is a Grade 5, it will have 3 marks. https://www.melfast.com/blog/2014/03/a-mini-guide-on-grade-8-bolts#:~:text=Despite the popular belief%2C a,constructions or the automotive industry. Despite the popular belief, a stainless steel bolt is actually weaker than a grade 8 bolt. In fact, according to the Society of American Engineers (SAE), grade 8 bolts are the strongest and hardest hex bolt you would want to use in constructions or the automotive industry. While the carbon alloy bolts have a proof load of over 120,000 psi, their stainless steel counterparts don't carry an indicative proof load. Moreover, the minimum strength of grade 8 bolts is around 130,000 psi, whereas stainless steel strength doesn't exceed 90,000 psi. OK...for the Real information, either go to the IFI and research or you can use this chart. SS is a term. What is NEEDED is the TYPE or GRADE. https://boltdepot.com/Fastener-Information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart However, and I was the Chief Engineer for a large Fastener Manufacturer.....here is the simple chart. https://boltdepot.com/Fastener-Information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart IF the Hitch came, which I THINK most do, with Grade 8 bolts...and SS was substituted....then there is probably a reduction in the tensile strength of the bolts. I would ALSO only USE FLAT WASHERS.... not split washers. I discussed with the Roadmaster and they agreed, in writing, based on actually calling their vendor. Their kits were older technology and with the newer Electronic Lab and QC equipment....the Industry standard changed. USE FLAT WASHERS. Roadmaster said..."Well, they have worked for a long time...maybe something we look into". SO...for the ultimate....use Grade 8 and Flat Washer and Loctite RED. That is what the specs say. You CAN take apart a Loctite RED assembly by heating the bolt head with a "Pencil Tip" torch. I remove Loctite Red Screws from Rifle Mounts....for folks that should have used Loctite Blue or Green. Some thought it was permanent and they needed to remove the scope. Just a little patience and understanding and being careful That's my take and background and information.

LAST DITCH. Swap the BOARDS. That is the ONLY THING LEFT. Try that.... BTW... DID you take the Front Thermostat and plug it in or use it in the REAR? Assumed you did...but if not....try that. Otherwise....swap the boards. Good Luck. Thanks for the feedback. Let us know...

@Garry Donohue PM @Frank McElroy. He is an electonics wizard. He will repair and test the board.

Most of Monaco’s pumps were direct of hard plumbed with PEX. (Or equivalent). Some of the lines were laying of floor of bay where pump was. The vibrations from the pump would lack like a” “bass drum” in that the pex would vibrate up and down and “smack” the floor. NOISE. See below. You need or most do, one on each end. That solves it. Hope this helps….probably some pictures here, but the concept is simple. May be a video on Youtube on “reduce rv water pump vibration”. Folks that used the 2 X 8 (or whatever width you need) pad with rubber underneath it and the loops said that they could barely hear the pump. In SOME cases, Monaco dropped down the pex and didn’t run on the floor. Mine is on floor and I put Pipe Insulation (split in half) under the pex and that fixed mine… NOT all need it…but raising and protecting the pump and the flex line loops is the first class way…and you got a first class rig…LOL.

Great. Unusual for that many fuses to pop.. read this. Great for understanding MPX. Next one is Frank’s PRIMER…

His pictures show manual switches. Frank and I concluded no MPX. That’s all the info I have. Now, if these switches are part of an MPX, all bets are off. The only SLIDE prints were very inconclusive. Most focused on Elextric. He said HWH and hears the Motor running. So, that was our logic. I guess we see after he responds. FORGOT to post. ALL of a sudden, his Driver’s came to life this morning. GREAT….retracted them. OPPS….now Passenger, which was working when he started post, is dead. My take….loose wires on Pump Solenoid. But who knows….if he responds….can ask questions….

Joe, Glad you are making progress. Ron texted me earlier today. Been outside recovering our screened porch from the “code 5 pollen season”. Ron called a mobile tech. Had sent him the print and went over circuit. No feedback. Guess we just wait….