installing a brake controller

[Tom Cherry]

10 hours ago, Nevada Rob said:

Have you looked into the wireless brake controllers? Has anyone gone that route with success?

EDIT….after I posted this, I did a search using WIRELESS BRAKE.  There were at 4 different topics or such that came up.  I suggest that you do the search and read the topics.  They are informative and will provide insight.  My comments are as follows…..

Generic comment based on three different braking projects and some insight from US Gear on the Monaco prewired system.

your 2008 should be simple as the connector is wired correctly.  Once you find it, checking the wires is fairly easy with a VOM,  hardwiring is very reliable,  

The real decision is the brand and type of braking system that you want or need as well as the “ease of installation” as well as the hookup protocols.

My US Gear system was a bit cumbersome to install, but it worked great and was an easy hookup.  That unit is not in production anymore.  But having a 6 wire umbilical and just attaching it without having to do any other “thing” to get the brakes to work was a priority.  Thus, a system that is hardwired and only uses the umbilical is simple and hassle free….hooking up the tow bar and making sure all is correct is the priority….not having to do other “tasks” inside the toad to attach or hookup more cylinders or such.

Many chose the air operated system like AirForce 1 and M&G.  The AF1, when I evaluated it had a “cylinder” hookup to operate the brake pedal.  Probably not a bid deal, but one more thing to do and add to a checklist. I chose the M&G when I traded off my Hummer that worked great with the US Gear Unified Tow Brake. That is an air system that is bolted as an “extension” between the power brake vacuum canister and the master cylinder.  Once installed, easily I might add as you don’t have to install or adjust or fumble with brackets….it is bulletproof.  You do a simple plumbing job where you add a T fitting to a rear brake line….and add a quick disconnect fitting on the rear.  Then you hook up an air hose….same as the AF1.  The MH’s air operates the cylinder in the extension….so there is no extra hooking up the brake pedal cylinder like the AF1.

Wireless system have obviously come a long way since my first Brake Buddy portable unit in 2006.  They are probably more reliable….as my BB would barely work on a 36 ft MH.  So, perhaps others can chime in.

I would not let this discussion spook me about using the reliable Monaco prewired connector.  Once installed, hardwiring, to me, beats a wireless system.  Now, again, I only tow one vehicle and don’t swap Toads.

Many do it themselves….and most reputable hitch and braking system shops are well acquainted with prewired systems.  All of major MH manufacturers have that as a standard feature….which you have.

Do the search and research….also do some googling as IRV2 has many topics with the pros and cons and specific info on each system.

Good Luck.

 

[Tom Cherry]

16 hours ago, DavidR said:

Does the other end of those white wires marked as "Brake Controller" go to the rear of the coach?

See my response in the thread you started.  Since you are jumping into another thread with the same question that is very good, I will combine your new thread here as the subject is the same.  Please research first and then determine if a new thread is needed.

As to your question,  only ONE wire…the infamous “blue” wire in the 5 wire, 6 pin connector goes to the rear.  That is all that is needed to operate the “braking system”. The other 4 are the necessary hook up wires for the in front installation.  One is the service brake signal, needed for all controllers….and the other two are power wires….I think one is switched (ignition) and the other is always on 12 VDC.

In addition, please review your profile.  There is a large blank space on every post that needs to be resolved….it looks like a failed picture or whatever.  Thanks,

[Nevada Rob]

Tom thanks for the info. I struggle finding stuff/topics/past discussions on this site. Looks like most folks are looking to flat tow a vehicle. We tow trailers only with vehicles in them or on them. My new trailer is a 24' MAXXD Drop-N-Load that will carry a RZR and 74 IH Scout. GVW towing will be pushing 10,000 lbs. so I am going to need a very reliable brake controller. Once the weather cools off and drops below 108 everyday I will look where you described for the pre-wired setup. That sure would make things easier than running all wires my self. Thanks again.

[Tom Cherry]

20 minutes ago, Nevada Rob said:

Tom thanks for the info. I struggle finding stuff/topics/past discussions on this site. Looks like most folks are looking to flat tow a vehicle. We tow trailers only with vehicles in them or on them. My new trailer is a 24' MAXXD Drop-N-Load that will carry a RZR and 74 IH Scout. GVW towing will be pushing 10,000 lbs. so I am going to need a very reliable brake controller. Once the weather cools off and drops below 108 everyday I will look where you described for the pre-wired setup. That sure would make things easier than running all wires my self. Thanks again.

The pre wired plug is your salvation.  I have installed trailer brake controllers as well as toad system, so I understand.  Whatever brake controller you use needs, in addition to a ground, a service brake signal and a good 12 VDC power source to send the “regulated” power back to the solenoid brake mechanism….assuming you go conventional.  I would look closely at the amp load of the solenoids.  No natter what system, there will be a small voltage drop over the #12 “blue” wire that the controller uses for the solenoids.  From a “circuit’ design and reliability stand point, you “might” want to have a fused #10 (20 ot 25 A) line coming off the Chassis battery or chassis Buss.  Use the “blue” wire to activate a Bosch 87/87A relay in the rear.  That way, you switch or energize the relay with the controller and get a good, no voltage drop, circuit to the solenoids.

Assume you will have a good RV/marine deep cycle battery or 2 if redundancy is required, for the emergency lock down braking system.  I’ve often wondered why there wasn’t an umbilical used with a quick disconnect plug to connect the trailer emergency brake to the vehicle on the trailer.  Especially if the payload was high, like your 10K.  Sure would be easy.

That is quite a “payload”.  I had a 1979 IH Scout II.  It had a bad case of Malibu cancer…..as it was driven way too much in the surf.  Had a really COOL CA style tape package.  Most rugged Dana driveline I ever had in a 4X4.

Good Luck

[DavidR]

I am looking into a Wireless Brake Controller form Curt that has a range of 50'

CURT 51180 Echo Mobile Brake Controller wireless bluetooth control

Has anybody have experience with this one on a 40' Class A?

[Tom Cherry]

58 minutes ago, DavidR said:

I am looking into a Wireless Brake Controller form Curt that has a range of 50'

CURT 51180 Echo Mobile Brake Controller wireless bluetooth control

Has anybody have experience with this one on a 40' Class A?

Read the installation manual.... also read the ratings on Amazon. This is for a "fixed" type of signal, if I understand it.  So, if you are towing a trailer and it has electric brakes, then you have to supply 30 Amps or so of ON or FULL TIME positive 12VDC which would burn out the brakes if you did that.  But this device "interrupts" the signal....and then, with some sort of "deceleration" sensor, supposedly from your phone, when you apply the brakes....it applies the power to the solenoids on the trailer. 

Don't know how you would use it for flat towing a car....but if you have electric brakes on the trailer, this would modulate them.

A word of caution.  If you have ever pulled a trailer behind a pick up or SUM or even an car...and had the load shift for a truck pass and start the trailer to "fishtailing.  Used to haul cows....and when they decided to move....they shifted the weight and you had an issu.. Probably NOT an issue in a MH....but anything smaller, you need to be able to "hit the lever" or use the manual control to "almost lock up" the trailer brakes to straighten this out. I watched a lady, in my rear view mirror roll a Chrysler SUV or maybe a Jeep SUV because she was swerving or weaving.  The trailer was like a pendulum....except it swung more violently each time.  On about the third to the right.....the 25 ft TT flipped....as did the SUV.  I could not stop due to the traffic slamming on brakes so I drove on as there were folks jumping out to help.

That is what this is for.....not for a "Toad Braking" system where you need a Control Wire from the up front controller through the wiring harness to the 7 pin back there.

The only thing that I would be concerned about is the Full Load Amperage (FLA) rating of the small relay inside it to "modulate" the braking. It can't be a resistor....due to the size....so it must be "Pulsing" on and off....to get a modulated current to the brakes.  Seems mighty small....but if it works....as folks says....then it is OK for what it does.

The OTHER thing....My experience with Wireless, and NOT BT, was less than satisfactory. Don't know how well the BT signal will go back to the 7 Pin adapter.  Many of the TPMS are supposed to work on 40 Ft and you sometimes need a booster.  Did not read where someone used this on a MH

Hope this helps...

[DavidR]

Yeah, it looks like I am stuck with trying to route a New Blue wire front the front all the way to the back of the coach...just not looking forward to getting under it!

[Tom Cherry]

50 minutes ago, DavidR said:

Yeah, it looks like I am stuck with trying to route a New Blue wire front the front all the way to the back of the coach...just not looking forward to getting under it!

You already have a “blue wire”.  Monaco NEVER color coded them….all white,  you have a 5 wire 6 pin connector….find it.  Perseverance in this is way less work and effort that running a “not needed” lead.  Review the previous posts and suggestions.  Once you locate it, then you will need to identify the leads.  All the wiring leads for any trailer or Toad braking system is in the connector.  You may luck out and find the service brake signal will be correct.  Going to the unnecessary trouble of running a wire and then poking around and trying to find the other inputs you need can be avoided…..it IS THERE.  We all have faces this and eventually found it.

Good Luck

[buzz shamer]

MODERATORS EDIT.

This topic was combined with a previous one that all the information pertinent to the request 

End of Edit

trying to find the electric brake controller wire to hook one up.  any one know were it would be not under the dash or around the steering wheel

[Tom Cherry]

11 hours ago, buzz shamer said:

MODERATORS EDIT.

This topic was combined with a previous one that all the information pertinent to the request 

End of Edit

trying to find the electric brake controller wire to hook one up.  any one know were it would be not under the dash or around the steering wheel

Couple of things, we request that members do a search prior to creating a new topic.  There is a search bar or window in the upper right corner.  Use the drop down and select TOPICS.  I used Trailer and this one came up pretty quick.

If you scroll back and check each page, there is a wealth of information. There is also a picture of the 6 connector (but only 5 wires) that you are looking for,

It is either right inside the driver’s left console (remove the access panel) and look.  I actually felt the looms or wiring bundles and sort of tugged and chased them,  that is where mine was,,,.up toward the front of the console….or where it opens up near your left foot.  Others have found that plug slightly under the dash above your left foot.  Others have pulled off the dash access and found the plug to the left….so it varies.

YOU GET A BOGO. Yesterday I happened across a print of the harness….here it is,

OK….FWIW.  #2 wire is the TRIGGER or Brake Light signal that the controllers require.

#3 is the INFAMOUS BLUE (actually in later years….white like the rest of them with dot matrix printing) BRAKE CONTROL wire that runs to the rear.  You can use a VOM and/or a test light and pin out or identify the other 4.  The only one with NO SIGNAL or GROUND is the one.  I took a 50 ft piece of 18 gage bell wire and used an alligator clip and hooked it to the #6 or #7 pin in the rear trailer plug.  I then used a VOM up front to establish and verify continuity.

if you have a 6 wire umbilical, then you will need a US Gear 7 to 6 pin adapter.  You might need to remove the cover and reverse the 6&7 pins….as there is not a lot of standardization.  The 5 pins are hard wired in the adapters, but the 6 & 7 are terminals.

that’s it.  Read up on it.  I think that I posted a write up in this topic on how to pin out….then I found the print….so it will useful in the future for other folks.

Good Luck…

 

[Agpopp]

Wanted to bring this back around and add some info for the Neptune / Cayman crew. 

Need to install a controller in my 2006 36PDQ coach so I started by looking for the connection in the driver's left console, then under the dash and on the main loom. Finally found it stuck down in the steering column cover and it happened to be the only wire bundle in a split loom.  

The connector is not like any I found mentioned,  rather a flat 4 wire 4 pin with 12v Ignition, ground,  trailer in and out. 

The fun then began when I probed the terminals and found the power was 12v pedal off, and 0v pedal on as mentioned earlier.  I then read a document mentioning the relay being set-up backwards and did locate it in the front road run box, the first relay on the right hand side. The relay did in fact have the wire in 87A so I de-pinned it and moved to 87. Back in the coach the power is now correct and is in fact sending power to the trailer plug. So now I'm off to find a controller to install.  

Here are some photos for future installations. 

[deputylynch]

Well I'm in a complete loss after reading all of this post and many others in other forums! I have an '05 Diplomat and after a great deal of searching I found the six-pin plug but when tracing it out it doesn't come back to anything that I found on any forum.

I find it pin one seems to be an actual ground but then pin two is hot with the ignition on and pin 3 seems to trace out to the center pin 7 at the plug on the back of the RV but it also will act as a ground.

Pin 4 is hot with the ignition and pin 5 is dead.

I tried changing the wire at the relay as suggested but no matter what, pin 2 is always hot with the ignition on and it doesn't seem to make any difference no matter what I do when touching the brakes.

I'm hoping one of you guys are an expert at this and can guide me since I could always pick up a good 12 volt lead somewhere and tap into the braking system but I'm concerned about pin 3 back to pin 7 still acting as somewhat of a ground Plus all of the wiring in the owner's mail indicates that that pin 7 should be used for backup lights. 

[Tom Cherry]

9 hours ago, deputylynch said:

Well I'm in a complete loss after reading all of this post and many others in other forums! I have an '05 Diplomat and after a great deal of searching I found the six-pin plug but when tracing it out it doesn't come back to anything that I found on any forum.

I find it pin one seems to be an actual ground but then pin two is hot with the ignition on and pin 3 seems to trace out to the center pin 7 at the plug on the back of the RV but it also will act as a ground.

Pin 4 is hot with the ignition and pin 5 is dead.

I tried changing the wire at the relay as suggested but no matter what, pin 2 is always hot with the ignition on and it doesn't seem to make any difference no matter what I do when touching the brakes.

I'm hoping one of you guys are an expert at this and can guide me since I could always pick up a good 12 volt lead somewhere and tap into the braking system but I'm concerned about pin 3 back to pin 7 still acting as somewhat of a ground Plus all of the wiring in the owner's mail indicates that that pin 7 should be used for backup lights. 

Yes, it is confusing.  The INTENT....assuming that your "6" pin was what you found up front.  It was Monaco's first attempt and they "blew it".  MAYBE not on SOME models....and they corrected it.  Here is how the actual (FIVE ONLY) wires should work...and they do EXACTLY on my Camelot...

GROUND

HOT VDC....all the time...this is a Chassis 12 VDC to power the controller.

SWITCHED VDC ...  Ignition ON and it is HOT

Brake Signal.... this is a 12 VDC signal.  I know it works that way... mine did.  BUT, I can't recall if it is IGNITION ON or HOT all the time.  Hold on (lightly) the brake.  You get 12 VDC....again, may need the ignition on....as I don't need the brakes to be activated if the engine is off and not moving.  Take that with no disrespect....LOL...

NO SIGNAL...or GROUND.  This is the wire that goes all the way from UP FRONT (6 pin - 5 used) connector to the REAR 7 Pin.  If it shows a ground....then I WONDER.  Mine did not.  It was ELECTRICALLY isolated or HAS TO BE.......just a wire and the only terminated on the inside in the the 6 Pin and the other end is only inside the 7 Pin rear.  Position may be in the center or it may be on the "circle".  I ran a 50 ft piece of hookup wire and did a continuity test.  Monaco and others were sometimes inconsistent.

NOW, If you read the Technical Service Bulletin....from US Gear and then understand, straight from US Gear.... MONACO actually called US Gear and said...."WHAT DID WE DO WRONG" and they told the Monaco folks what they had found on the EARLY 2005's and Monaco made a running change....maybe mid 2005 or in 2006....  Mine works exactly like it should and this is it.... 

Hopkins makes as 7 Pin to 6 Pin RV adapter so most of the Roadmaster and similar 6 pin umbilicals will work.  They don't need the Backup Lights.  They have. the following pins..

 Left TS &  Right TS (which together is the BRAKE light)

Parking Light

Charging (switched by an ignition controlled  relay in the rear to get 12 VDC)

GROUND.... and finally

"OUTPUT FROM A CONTROLLER"  or the aforementioned NOT CONNECTED to anything. That adapter has only TWO wires inside that are on screw connectors.  You can REVERSE the wires coming from the 7 Pin if someone reversed the Brake Controller with the Backup Lights.  AGAIN... I know.  I used one and then eventually cut off the 6 pin connector and got rid of the adapter and used a 7 pin which I wired myself.

That is it.   

[deputylynch]

Tom Cherry I did follow your earlier post plus many others on different forums and my plug wiring is evidently different?

I'm 95% sure I am at the right plug and attached a picture of mine. It was buried up underneath the IP to the left of the steering column. 

Again, on my pin number 3 it seems to go back to the pin 7 at the trailer connector and is not completely isolated in that it does provide a weak ground when checking it with a VOM. The resistance is very high but it still will provide a ground according to the VOM.

No matter what, I cannot find one of the wires to act as the brake switch either on or off when hitting the brake pedal since all of the positive wires seem to be on with the ignition on and off with the ignition off? I tried making the swap at the relay outside the coach as suggested and it made no difference. 

Lastly, none of the wires are hot all of the time. 

Is there any source out there to find the wiring diagram on these coaches?

[Tom Cherry]

46 minutes ago, deputylynch said:

Tom Cherry I did follow your earlier post plus many others on different forums and my plug wiring is evidently different?

I'm 95% sure I am at the right plug and attached a picture of mine. It was buried up underneath the IP to the left of the steering column. 

Again, on my pin number 3 it seems to go back to the pin 7 at the trailer connector and is not completely isolated in that it does provide a weak ground when checking it with a VOM. The resistance is very high but it still will provide a ground according to the VOM.

No matter what, I cannot find one of the wires to act as the brake switch either on or off when hitting the brake pedal since all of the positive wires seem to be on with the ignition on and off with the ignition off? I tried making the swap at the relay outside the coach as suggested and it made no difference. 

Lastly, none of the wires are hot all of the time. 

Is there any source out there to find the wiring diagram on these coaches?

OK...I understand your frustration.  First, from what I see in the pictures....I can't tell if you have the RIGHT connector.  Go back to the first page.  what you have is NOT the 6 PIN Brake Controller or at least NOT what it looked like on mine.  . G0 back to the first page.... almost at the end Patrick posted the correct picture of the plug you are looking for.  That was on mine and also on many others that folks had here and found as well as helping folks at CG find theirs.

The square on is a Delphi.....NO IDEA what it goes to.

The white one....  I can't see but 4 wires in the picture.  May be MORE....but if it don't work...then it is wrong.

What you need is a 6 pin, 5 used.  FORGET about the elusive wire.  I really don't understand your comment....sorry, I am dense.  If you go back to your wiring harness.  There will be one wire that should not have any power in the 7 pin.  There MAY be a backup light.  As to where to look...it is in your prints as to the pins on the 7 pins.  Monaco varied.... 

When  said Monaco goofed....their GOOF was the Brake Signal from the Service Brakes.  ALL the other 4 wires were correct.  I don't know if you are referrring to the white (looks like 4....may be 5) or not.  Certainly the Square one is NOT what you need....

My ONLY suggestion...and I KNOW you are frustrated.  Start at the REAR.  Pin OUT every wire.  You should have TWO that might not have a signal.  LT, RT, Park, Ground and Charge will have signals.  The other two....WHO KNOW what one is, but ONE is definitely the UNUSED wire from the front.  Take a piece of 50 Ft hookup wire....any small gauge.  I carry a spool for just that in the MH.  Use your METER and then do a direct VOM OHM continuity test to the one you suspect is it.  If you have a phantom wire in the 7 pin, then your prints should tell you.

We have helped countless folks find the correct connector.  A FEW have had to make the relay changes....but we have NO idea about yours.  If there is NO signal to the pin that should be the Brake Control signal from Monaco, this follow your prints and the Monaco wiring and find the correct one and tap in and run it there.  As long as you have the OTHER 4 wires (as my narrative) and one UNUSED going back (I never measured to ground.... I started in the rear and found the unused one FIRST....then pinned out the rest.  NOW....if that still concerns you.  Put a 12 VDC  INLINE FUSED....low amperage ....wire to it.  If it doesn't blow a fuse, then the minor resistance doesn't matter.

Past that, I don't know what else to tell you ....  other than to run a single wire back to the elusive pin.  Then probe around and find the other four wires you need and wire it like that...but you are supposed to have prewiring... except the brake signal to the connector MAY be wrong.

Good Luck...

[deputylynch]

The first picture is the one under the dash that is the six-pin connector with 5 wires everybody's talking about. The second picture is the one at the relay outside the coach to swap over for the brake switch problem. 

You also mention follow the prints but that's the problem, I have no prints or wiring diagrams. Is there any source for wiring diagrams on these coaches?

Edited July 18, 2023 by deputylynch
More?

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, deputylynch said:

The first picture is the one under the dash that is the six-pin connector with 5 wires everybody's talking about. The second picture is the one at the relay outside the coach to swap over for the brake switch problem. 

You also mention follow the prints but that's the problem, I have no prints or wiring diagrams. Is there any source for wiring diagrams on these coaches?

I THOUGHT that you had wiring diagrams in the rear of your owner’s manual.  Assume you have the manual…so look there.

Next, the schematic that was posted a few posts back is the “official” schematic and follows my own probing and verification.  CW swore they weren’t prewired and refused to look and help me….so, I learned and dug into it.  My system was a US GEAR, so they coached me.  

Finally.  Go to the search box in the upper right.  Put in WIRING & THEN click on the right side.  There is a drop down as to WHERE.  Choose or mark “FILES”.  We have not been provided a 2005….but often I use the 2007.  You will need to download all, which takes time, but scroll down. Supplemental Braking.  BINGO.  This is what you need.  Use the one at the bottom or drawing #2.  It is exactly as has been posted.  I don’t know if the 6/5 that you have is yours.  If not, it is a scavenger hunt.  Some have found it behind the dash access panel almost centered behind the radio or exactly the opposite side at the far left in the upper dash.  Others have had to dig up and under the left corner of the dash on the brake pedal side.  Mine was even more “hidden”.  I have an access panel on the floor that lets you get up and under the shifter and leveling.  I kept snaking my arm to the front….on the floor inside the console. Felt the connector.  Gently followed the wire bundle and freed it up.  Then i had enough slack to feed it up and wired mine where it snaked up behind the lower left corner.

it IS always (never say that) but ….in the bundle between the dash and the driver’s lower console. Again.  Find and identify the ground, hot and switched.  If that bundle ain’t got that….keep looking.  Usually there is a label or dot matrix printing on each wire. Here is your print and the release says it is supposed to be on yours.  If you have an unidentified no output wire in your 7 pin….then you are prewired….

38060702%20%28DIAGRAM%2C%20SUPPL%20BRAKE%20SYSTEM%29.pdf

[deputylynch]

There are no wiring diagrams in the rear of my manual nor the one online which is identical so the info on how to find some on here has been somewhat of a help!

 

Well after spending hours on this, and my circuit tracer breaking on me to really make things tough, this is what i found:

Pinned out to the rear trailer connection  is 1-Ground, 2-dead, 3- Taillights, 4-dead, 5-L. Turn/Brake, 6-R. Turn/Brake, 7-Reverse & goes to Pin 3 at front controller connection but doesn't have the 12v from the Reverse so maybe it has a diode somewhere? All standard trailer connections and as in the Owner's Manual.

The Controller Connector @ the front is 1-Ground, 2-switched 12v (not the brake circuit), 3- goes back to 7 along with the Reverse 12v but again it shows only as a direct connection without the 12v from the reverse??, 4-Ignition Keyed 12v, 5- 12v also keyed 6-no wire.

The schematics show that 5 should have constant power from a relay that also should power an air dryer but I can't find that anywhere; it mentions it should come from Fuse F7-3 in the battery box or rear electric panel and should also power pin 2 at the trailer connection which is dead.

The schematic seems wrong on pg 2 in that pin 2 & 3 are reversed??

I've checked every fuse and they are all good and don't have any empty ones that could be missing, but again I can't find the F7-3??

So where I stand now is why pin 2 at the front connection isn't activated or deactivated by the brake, why I don't have a constant 12v to pin 5 or pin 2 in the rear, and how do I get the wire signal separated from pin 7 in the rear from pin 2 in the front to pin 4 in the rear??

 

 

 

[JeffM31]

1 hour ago, deputylynch said:

There are no wiring diagrams in the rear of my manual nor the one online which is identical so the info on how to find some on here has been somewhat of a help!

 

Well after spending hours on this, and my circuit tracer breaking on me to really make things tough, this is what i found:

Pinned out to the rear trailer connection  is 1-Ground, 2-dead, 3- Taillights, 4-dead, 5-L. Turn/Brake, 6-R. Turn/Brake, 7-Reverse & goes to Pin 3 at front controller connection but doesn't have the 12v from the Reverse so maybe it has a diode somewhere? All standard trailer connections and as in the Owner's Manual.

The Controller Connector @ the front is 1-Ground, 2-switched 12v (not the brake circuit), 3- goes back to 7 along with the Reverse 12v but again it shows only as a direct connection without the 12v from the reverse??, 4-Ignition Keyed 12v, 5- 12v also keyed 6-no wire.

The schematics show that 5 should have constant power from a relay that also should power an air dryer but I can't find that anywhere; it mentions it should come from Fuse F7-3 in the battery box or rear electric panel and should also power pin 2 at the trailer connection which is dead.

The schematic seems wrong on pg 2 in that pin 2 & 3 are reversed??

I've checked every fuse and they are all good and don't have any empty ones that could be missing, but again I can't find the F7-3??

So where I stand now is why pin 2 at the front connection isn't activated or deactivated by the brake, why I don't have a constant 12v to pin 5 or pin 2 in the rear, and how do I get the wire signal separated from pin 7 in the rear from pin 2 in the front to pin 4 in the rear??

 

 

 

The 12v fuse for mine was in the battery compartment hanging on the wall. I didn’t realize fuses were in there. Oh man was it pissing me off why I had no 12v at the plug. Next, Are your white wires at the relay marked? I just did this to mine last week and all is well. The wires were marked and was an easy swap on the relay. 
My charge fuse was here

 

Edited July 20, 2023 by JeffM31
Added pic

[deputylynch]

2 hours ago, JeffM31 said:

The 12v fuse for mine was in the battery compartment hanging on the wall. I didn’t realize fuses were in there. Oh man was it pissing me off why I had no 12v at the plug. Next, Are your white wires at the relay marked? I just did this to mine last week and all is well. The wires were marked and was an easy swap on the relay. 
My charge fuse was here

 

That's evidently where F7-3 (marked CHG) is and it was the only fuse in this whole motorhome that I found that was blown!!

That's the good, but bad news, since when replaced I now have 12v to pin 4 at the back as it should but it didn't change anything at the front!

I still don't have any brake control or 12 v constant up there?? They are all white and I can't make out any printing on them but checked them with a VOM and pin 3 to the back found at pin 7 along with the reverse power!

I guess you're you working with an 06, which is a year newer than mine. Did everything else check out for you including having to do the relay wire swap? Did you have a connection to pin 2 at the back, not 7 like mine?

 

Edited July 20, 2023 by deputylynch
Info change

[JeffM31]

8 hours ago, deputylynch said:

That's evidently where F7-3 (marked CHG) is and it was the only fuse in this whole motorhome that I found that was blown!!

That's the good, but bad news, since when replaced I now have 12v to pin 4 at the back as it should but it didn't change anything at the front!

I still don't have any brake control or 12 v constant up there?? They are all white and I can't make out any printing on them but checked them with a VOM and pin 3 to the back found at pin 7 along with the reverse power!

I guess you're you working with an 06, which is a year newer than mine. Did everything else check out for you including having to do the relay wire swap? Did you have a connection to pin 2 at the back, not 7 like mine?

 

When I get home I’ll see if I can get some pics. My plug under the dash was the same as above that you posted. Everything looks exactly the same. My chassis was built dec 05 the rest obviously 06. I was able to read all the white wires under the dash and at the relay where the swap occurs. I had constant power at 2 pins and yes that was frustrating until I went to the inter webs and found this relay thing. 

[deputylynch]

Did you have constant power at pin 2 or did it shut off when you hit the brake as what I read described. Mine has constant power a pin 2 no matter what I do at the relay. And now after reading your post, where did you do the swap out which relay? The one I'm working on is in the outside panel. 

Edited July 20, 2023 by deputylynch
Info change

[JeffM31]

1 hour ago, deputylynch said:

Did you have constant power at pin 2 or did it shut off when you hit the brake as what I read described. Mine has constant power a pin 2 no matter what I do at the relay. And now after reading your post, where did you do the swap out which relay? The one I'm working on is in the outside panel. 

Yes in the front run box. The wire is marked 197. I’ll look when I get home for you 

[Dr4Film]

11 hours ago, JeffM31 said:

The 12v fuse for mine was in the battery compartment hanging on the wall. I didn’t realize fuses were in there. Oh man was it pissing me off why I had no 12v at the plug. Next, Are your white wires at the relay marked? I just did this to mine last week and all is well. The wires were marked and was an easy swap on the relay. 
My charge fuse was here

 

I can't believe members still have the BEP Disconnect Switches installed on their coaches after there have been tons of postings on this site showing what they can and will do to a coach when it catches fire.

13 hours ago, deputylynch said:

Well after spending hours on this, and my circuit tracer breaking on me to really make things tough, this is what i found:

Pinned out to the rear trailer connection  is 1-Ground, 2-dead, 3- Taillights, 4-dead, 5-L. Turn/Brake, 6-R. Turn/Brake, 7-Reverse & goes to Pin 3 at front controller connection but doesn't have the 12v from the Reverse so maybe it has a diode somewhere? All standard trailer connections and as in the Owner's Manual.

The Controller Connector @ the front is 1-Ground, 2-switched 12v (not the brake circuit), 3- goes back to 7 along with the Reverse 12v but again it shows only as a direct connection without the 12v from the reverse??, 4-Ignition Keyed 12v, 5- 12v also keyed 6-no wire.

The schematics show that 5 should have constant power from a relay that also should power an air dryer but I can't find that anywhere; it mentions it should come from Fuse F7-3 in the battery box or rear electric panel and should also power pin 2 at the trailer connection which is dead.

The schematic seems wrong on pg 2 in that pin 2 & 3 are reversed??

I've checked every fuse and they are all good and don't have any empty ones that could be missing, but again I can't find the F7-3??

So where I stand now is why pin 2 at the front connection isn't activated or deactivated by the brake, why I don't have a constant 12v to pin 5 or pin 2 in the rear, and how do I get the wire signal separated from pin 7 in the rear from pin 2 in the front to pin 4 in the rear??

Your pin-out of the rear trailer connection is 100% correct. See attached diagram for the 7-way connector.

The connector at the front is NOT for the rear trailer connection and most likely for for some other function unrelated.

6-Way & 7-Way Wiring Diagram.pdf

[deputylynch]

Well now I have even more questions. Don't know anything about the battery disconnect in the back since I just bought this coach.

And the only six pin connector I can find is as pictured in other post but it's not making sense as far as the brake wire.

On my connector the wires that I can't read the numbers on are as follow: 1 is 106D, 2 is 108A ACC, 3 is Blank, 4 is 136G IGN A, 5  is 142D USS, 6 is the empty slot. 

This is under the dash to the left of the steering column