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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/223-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Surge Tank Replacement
Bob Nodine
Parking brake does not disengage
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
Parking brake does not disengage
Bob Nodine
Porch light
Twomed
Headlight problem
ius2fly
Surge Tank Replacement
throgmartin
Headlight problem
bellr1968@gmail.com
Headlight problem
Steven P
Headlight problem
ius2fly
Parking brake does not disengage
philcarrell
Entrance Door Noise
hitechpete
Parking brake does not disengage
jfasano88
Headlight problem
Dr4Film
Headlight problem
David Pratt
Aqua hot not working on heat strips?
Texomaman73
Parking brake does not disengage
Highwayman
Smart Wheel Puzzle
rpasetto
Smart Wheel Puzzle
KevinH
Parking brake does not disengage
daveyjo
Aqua hot not working on heat strips?
wamcneil
Aqua hot not working on heat strips?
David Pratt
Smart Wheel Puzzle
rpasetto
Surge Tank Replacement
mandms59
Norcold 1200 parts
Steven P
Low Coolant Light
n42rv
Is a Nason switch adjustable?
Frank McElroy
Norcold 1200 parts
RobertD

New Posts

MONACO GOOF - POTENTIAL LIPPERT HYDRAULIC FAILURE SLIDES and/or JACKS>>>> IMPORTANT
Tim503
On 10/25/2020 at 11:43 AM, dl_racing427 said:

 

dl_racing427 & Tim503.  Your posts, if you don't get offended at my warped sense of humor, is like two 10 year old's measuring their manhood behind the barn.  Please do so offline and don't hijack this topic for a rhetorical question.

dl_racing427 made a valid comment....but might not be the viewpoint of the majority.  That has morphed and it is not germane to the real issue of a failure.  I had HOPED that it would not go down this path, therefore, I have killed both posts that were getting into "Million Dollar" bets and such.

Thanks for your understanding and also the reason that we moderators can make changes to keep the board focused.

Tom


PTL door hold mechanism doesn’t hold
Tim503
On 10/25/2020 at 10:31 AM, Mel S - '96 Safari said:

Tim503

If you're dissatisfied/disappointed with your father's help I suggest you "check out" your own motorhome next time.

Or never leave the motorhome so I don't get broke into. I was a thousand miles away at the time. The gist of my comment was people are not used to a door that does not close. They don't know the ways of a PTL door. Maybe the manufacturer should put a warning label on the door to tell people how to close it.


Surge Tank Replacement
Bob Nodine
11 hours ago, mandms59 said:

Bob -thanks for the explanation. 

In reviewing options for replacement tanks (my understanding from Veurinks nylon tank no longer available), they are all setup with 90 deg brass fittings for the two black main hoses; Talin  has (2) 90 degree fittings welded in place.  

My question - can I put a  brass "Reducing Tee" in one of the two black lines at top of tank prior to connecting to  Hose barb fitting and run the red bleed air line to this "Tee" or would I also need to install a check valve into red line? 

 

I like the Talin Vector tank, however the fittings look to be TIG welded in place; hence the question above about running a "Reducing Tee" into one of the black lines above.

Has anyone used the Vector tank on Monaco/HR  having same return line configuration shown in previous post above?

 

Thanks/

Mark

 

 

I am not sure on this but would try it without the check valve. Air should migrate to the highest point and I think would eventually arrive at the air space at the top of the surge tank. You could even just plug off that line as it is not required for the cooling system to function.


Parking brake does not disengage
wayne.cerven@gmail.com

If you have front disk brakes ,on each of the Caliper's (each front wheel) and you shine a light in through the rim you will see two small hole's on each end of the caliper. Spray some Anti rust (Free) is what I use ,do not spray on the disk or pads holes only, on my 99 the right side front is part of the parking brake which will stick if not maintained. I lubricate those slides on the caliper couple times a year.

Wayne 1999 Monaco signature 


Parking brake does not disengage
Bob Nodine
6 hours ago, jfasano88 said:

When I am parked for a couple of days when I am ready to leave my parking brake when pushed it does nothing. My brakes are frozen up. It will take me a couple of minutes putting the coach in gear so I can drive. 
Is there a remedy or how do I fix it. Is there a grease that I need to use. 
I am afraid that it won’t disengage and I might hurt the engine. 
 

John 2009 Camelot kfq 
 

J

Has it been raining? Is the moisture content of the air high? This sounds like the brakes may be rusting to the drum. Do you have drum brakes on the rear? I am not familiar with what is on a 2009 Camelot but when we had our coach parked outside there were a few occasions when this happened to us and we had to rock the transmission from reverse to drive a few times.

 


Porch light
Twomed

Outside Porch Light  is a Thin Lite D-160A

Try this number.


Headlight problem
ius2fly

2007 Monaco Signature  -  Headlight problem.

Light switch off.  Ignition OFF.  Both headlights ON.

Light switch off.  Ignition ON. Both headlight OFF.

Replaced Headlight switch.  No help.

Can’t tell what the Headlight Relay looks like or where it is.

Thanks in advance.


Surge Tank Replacement
throgmartin

Mark, the fittings are no longer welded into place. We discontinued that option because Monaco routed those lines in different directions on different coaches.

I am leaving in an hour on a trip so wont be at the shop. Check with Amy to be sure the tanks we have in inventory have the removable fittings. The other change we went to with the tanks is we went to a large sight glass. The sight glasses we use are fused glass good to 1,200 degrees. They are housed in a 316 stainless housing.


Headlight problem
bellr1968@gmail.com

The relay on my Dynasty is in the front run bay.   Best of luck to you.


Headlight problem
Steven P

Did this just start or was there something changed before this?  If a change was made, I'd start there.  


Headlight problem
ius2fly

That was my first guess.  But what does the headlight relay look like?  What is the name on the label?  Are there 2  a Dim and a Bright?

No changes.  Possible that the leads are corroded.  Can't find which relay.

 

Parking brake does not disengage
philcarrell

Has your air pressure built back up.  Mine leaks down and it as to get over 70 I think to release.

 


Entrance Door Noise
hitechpete

Could be the scissor mechanism on top of the door clunking due to wear in the pivot/rivet.


Parking brake does not disengage
jfasano88

I waited until the air pressure is up. (Over 100 psi.

John 2009 42’ Camelot kfq 

Thanks for the information I have not maintained my brakes. I will lubricant the brakes and check for problems.Yes it was raining for about 1 week straight 

thanks again John 42’ Camelot kfq 

 

 


Headlight problem
Dr4Film

Two other relays to check, one is called the DRL relay which is a Hamsar Relay (if indeed you have one) and the second is the relay which controls when you are allowed to use your Fog Lights. Both of those relay's in my coach are in the FRB under the driver's window.

The headlight relay if there is one is most likely in either the Monaco #1 or Monaco #2 box inside the main Fuse box. Those are located in the FRB in my coach.


Headlight problem
David Pratt

Jack

Your problem can be affected by 3 possible failures.

My first guess is it could be a failure of the DRL(Daylight Running Module). It is mounted in the FRB in the top to the left Gray in color and about 3"Lx1.5-2"Wx1.0" and has seven wires connected to it.It has a 9 wire connector about six inches from the DRL. Separate the connector and check to see if it corrects the problem. Ignition Off, Headlight s witch Off, headlights should be off and will only turn on with headlight switch.

In the FRB there is a Circuit Board (Board 16). It is located top center and has four relays on it. The bottom two relays are for the High beams only. The Low beams are controlled by the Smart wheel control and the DRL. On the Smart Wheel Control there is 7 connectors that plug into the Control.The one marked J12 top center has Four 12gauge white wires. This is the headlight connector, disconnect from the control  and with Ignition off, headlight switch off, the headlights should be off. The headlights will only come on when you turn them on with the headlight switch.

The third, but most unlikely would be the clock spring in the smart wheel.     

If you have your wiring schematic manual you will be able to find all these schematics in the manual to help you. The schematic numbers are;38040159, 38031541,

38031538, 38031591 and 38010689.                                     


Lost Turn Signals, Brake & running Lights OK-Not finding fuse panel
old5foot

20201027_083639.thumb.jpeg.84da5a1859a566117e7545ecb5bfa166.jpegThanks Ken. My issue occurs at either position for the steering wheel.

 Scott  I attached a photo of fuses in Battery Bay.

They are labeled: PED Nos. 7, 8,9,12,15

Does anyone have any Idea what the PED nos. correlate tooPhotos.app.zip?

Also found a small computer board in dash wiring.  Followed wires out of Steering Column to it. Board is labeled C-39 and connecting wires are labeled as follows: A) 300 Ignition (512), B) Ground (527), C) 106 Brake Lights (532), D) 165 Right Fr Turn (55), E) 164 Left Fr Turn (54).

Anyone know its' purpose?  See Photo.

Sorry about the mess this post turned out to be. My 1st attempt.

Stay Safe, Doug

image.thumb.png.9e7274e58f968621afb6fe28a9c5f64f.png


Aqua hot not working on heat strips?
Dr4Film

There is no need to touch those switches once they are on unless you are storing the coach for a period of time.

The 120 VAC Electric Assist will keep the boiler fluid at temp unless there is heavy demand or really cold incoming ground water. Once the demand increases the diesel burner will fire up to keep the boiler fluid at temp.

If the main light goes off on the diesel control switch, that means that your diesel burner has faulted with an error and needs to be serviced or repaired. Turn the switch to OFF and back to ON to see if the light stays on. 

Your wall thermostat(s) for each zone controls the floor heat exchangers and blowers. They determine when they turn on and off NOT the Aqua-Hot switches.

It would also help to know the exact model number of your Aqua-Hot. That can be found on a label inside the Aqua-Hot SS panel housing.


Aqua hot not working on heat strips?
Texomaman73
1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

There is no need to touch those switches once they are on unless you are storing the coach for a period of time.

The 120 VAC Electric Assist will keep the boiler fluid at temp unless there is heavy demand or really cold incoming ground water. Once the demand increases the diesel burner will fire up to keep the boiler fluid at temp.

If the main light goes off on the diesel control switch, that means that your diesel burner has faulted with an error and needs to be serviced or repaired. Turn the switch to OFF and back to ON to see if the light stays on. 

Your wall thermostat(s) for each zone controls the floor heat exchangers and blowers. They determine when they turn on and off NOT the Aqua-Hot switches.

It would also help to know the exact model number of your Aqua-Hot. That can be found on a label inside the Aqua-Hot SS panel housing.

Here is what I see happening!  It lost temp last night so I shut everything off.  This morning, as Ray suggested I turned on just the electric switch and all three rooms were set to furn and 65 degrees, temp in coach was at 53, I let the electric only run for 2 hours and it didn't heat up the lines at all.  I checked the breaker in the bedroom and it was still on, and the fans never came on. 

I then fired up the diesel and the fans came on immediately and the lines started to heat.  The small indicator on the AH didn't come on at this time but it does come on later after the coach has reached the set point on all zones and the fans have shut off.  

After that nothing changes except that the lines will start cooling down.  I have not ever shut any of the switches off until the temp in the coach is well below where it should have come back on.  The fans will continue to run until I shut off the system but the diesel never fires back up to reheat, with either both switches on or just the diesel switch on (doesn't seem to matter).  

My AH is a 431/12  ser#99831

The fans do shut off when the zone is up to temp, but they come back on later when the room temp drops below set point.  After that they remain on apparently trying to heat the room back up.


Parking brake does not disengage
Highwayman

You may have a failing brake valve. The one I'm referring to is located at the rear axle or could be on the rear air tank. When you push the dash valve it activates the slave valve that directs air to the maxi brake chambers. These valves get old and gunk inside makes them stick. You just need to replace a bad one. You can locate this valve by following the air lines from the chambers up to the valve. 

Eventually this valve will stick and you won't be able to move. Or you'll leave those long black streaks running to the shoulder.


Smart Wheel Puzzle
rpasetto

@Kevin, Thanks for the clear picture .  I can't tell, where is that adjustment? on the last picture?

Update.  We thought the problem had to do with the wheel turning but it seems to happen going straight even when concentrating on holding the wheel position straight.  Sometimes we go thru lots of curves with no occurrences.  The only consistent thing so far is  either the wiper on in regular mode or the one time wipe that activates.


MONACO GOOF - POTENTIAL LIPPERT HYDRAULIC FAILURE SLIDES and/or JACKS>>>> IMPORTANT
dl_racing427
9 hours ago, Tim503 said:

 

dl_racing427 & Tim503.  Your posts, if you don't get offended at my warped sense of humor, is like two 10 year old's measuring their manhood behind the barn.  Please do so offline and don't hijack this topic for a rhetorical question.

dl_racing427 made a valid comment....but might not be the viewpoint of the majority.  That has morphed and it is not germane to the real issue of a failure.  I had HOPED that it would not go down this path, therefore, I have killed both posts that were getting into "Million Dollar" bets and such.

Thanks for your understanding and also the reason that we moderators can make changes to keep the board focused.

Tom


Lost Turn Signals, Brake & running Lights OK-Not finding fuse panel
Scott 61

This is in the rear passenger compartment my chassis is the RR8R might be different chassis than yours

20201027_085134.jpg

20201027_085152.jpg

20201027_085206.jpg


Smart Wheel Puzzle
KevinH

Here’s three more pictures I took. I just started taking the thing apart I didn’t even realize it had an adjustment when taking it apart but when I put it back together I read the label on the top where it said to adjust it. I’m getting a front end alignment and I think I might have to adjust my steering wheel so if I have to pull the steering wheel off again I’ll give you more detailed instructions

97164DD5-A8C4-4CAE-B9A3-703490FC7767.jpeg

BB6257A1-F2DD-4CEA-A87A-01C335C32C37.jpeg

8981956B-301C-4567-95C7-5F15734C5AAE.jpeg


Parking brake does not disengage
daveyjo
5 hours ago, Bob Nodine said:

Has it been raining? Is the moisture content of the air high? This sounds like the brakes may be rusting to the drum. Do you have drum brakes on the rear? I am not familiar with what is on a 2009 Camelot but when we had our coach parked outside there were a few occasions when this happened to us and we had to rock the transmission from reverse to drive a few times.

 

I have had the same problem several times, and it was the brake shoes bonded to the drum from being parked while wet.  Like Bob, I just had to rock the coach a bit and suddenly BAM and they would break loose. It can be a little scary applying power while the brakes are locked, tho.  But be ready to apply brakes right away once they break loose. 


Aqua hot not working on heat strips?
Dr4Film

My Aqua-Hot model is the same, 431/12 but it seems to be controlled completely different than yours.

I have two control switches, one for the diesel burner and one for the 120 VAC Electric Assist. The photo doesn't show it clearly but the diesel burner blue light is lit up and the 120 VAC Electric Assist is showing RED which means they are both on and active.

I then have three thermostats, one mounted to the wall between the kitchen and bath which controls the three Aqua-Hot heat Exchangers in the kitchen and salon areas. Another thermostat mounted near the bathroom door which controls the single Aqua-Hot Heat Exchanger in the bathroom located under the main vanity. And the third thermostat is mounted on the side of the storage cabinet near the far side of the bed which controls the Aqua-Hot Heat Exchanger for the bedroom which is located under the storage drawers and cabinets where the one side of the pocket door is located. Each thermostat can be adjusted to individual temperatures for each of the three zones. The exchanger fans or heat will not come on until each thermostat is set to ON and the set temperature for that room has not been reached. Once the set temp has been reached the fans and heat will cycle off and on to keep the temperature of that room at the set temp.

You will notice that the 120 VAC Electric Assist is a small 12 VDC switch. That is because the switch is actually wired to a large relay located behind my Intellitec Energy Management System panel that can handle a much larger amp & voltage load.

I would also recommend joining Roger Berke's Aqua-Hot Discussion Forum where you will have access to his expertise and advice.

http://forum.rvhydronicheaterrepair.com/content.php

Aqua-Hot Switch Controls.jpg

Main Thermostat.jpg

Bathroom Thermostat.jpg

Bedroom Thermostat.jpg

2002 Windsor Aqua Hot & Block Heater Relay.pdf


Lost Turn Signals, Brake & running Lights OK-Not finding fuse panel
cpat_39

I had an issue of left turn signal blowing fuses almost immediately after installing new fuse. Found that the turn signal socket was so loose that it somehow increased the load on fuse and then fuse failed. I swapped out all rear light sockets with new and that solved the problem.  Found right back light socket from factory was for for 1157 bulb.

Might mention that when left turn signal failed then all the marker lights (front, side and rear) also went out. Socket replacement solved that issue also. 

While replacing sockets also replace housing and lenses for a newer look to our 2000 Diplomat.

IMG_1165.jpeg


MONACO GOOF - POTENTIAL LIPPERT HYDRAULIC FAILURE SLIDES and/or JACKS>>>> IMPORTANT
Tom Cherry
15 hours ago, PatrickV said:

Thank you Tom. Very useful info. I'm dealing with Amanda at Lippert Parts and she's been great. Interesting that you got a new controller also!

All I was told by Tammy, as well as Luz, is that Lippert would provide a new, at NC, Controller when you ordered my particular unit....don't know if that is for a Jacks and/or Jacks and Slide unit.  So, maybe that was ONLY for my old unit....which had three levels of design revisions....and Lippert abandoned the shoe box hanging reservoir. 

One point of clarification.  Monaco designed a simple 6 Diode Array.  3 Diodes for each slide (main and other).  That works off two simple Toggle Switches (IN OFF (spring loaded) OUT).  The diodes are usually bullet proof.  So, the wiring is simple and cheap.  That is for the SLIDES.  

LCI said that I would get a new controller, FREE, if I needed it.  I did not as the simple (but totally confusing and baffling to several service techs that don't have prints or understand what a Diode does... LOL) diode array and the LCI Deutch Pigtail or Loom would plug right in.  Thus... a piece of cake.

NOW....you have a burned (probably) motor in a similar unit, but the valving is way more complex and you need a unit that will interchange.  The FREE controller was if LCI had changed the wiring or the valve functions.  SO....I can't tell you if you will or will be offered one....  Hope that explains it...

Each time I tried to order it, the agent said....We need to get Tech Support involved as we might need to include a new controller.  

Bottom line, I would try every trick to GET parts to find me a NEW and Complete unit as spending 65% for two parts is not cost effective for me.  Anything above 50% in manufacturing (Repair vs Replace) is the Rule of Thumb and I can probably think of at least 50 major projects over the years that my boss and I interceded and upgraded.  

Let us know how this goes.  IF you find the correct LIPPERT number for your unit, shoot Frank McElroy the info.  Include all the pertinent stuff like old PN, old Motor PN, etc. and replacement numbers....that LCI tech support can look up.  He will include in the Parts List.

Thanks...


Aqua hot not working on heat strips?
wamcneil
17 hours ago, Ivan K said:

I am not quite sure if you keep turning the diesel burner OFF or not but if you want to have a warm night, keep both switches ON. Electric alone will likely not do for a chilly night like we have here in N TX today. Not with a single electric element in that era AH.

Yeah, if you need more than just a little bit of heat, you'll need leave both switches on. 

Think of it in terms of heat flow. My AH electric element consumes about 14a@120. That's around 1700 watts or 5700 btu/hr and is equivalent to one little 15a electric space heater.

That 5700 btu/hr of electric heating element in the boiler tank will heat up the antifreeze in the AH tank just like your water heater at home. And when somebody takes a long shower in the house, they're consuming hot water faster than the electric element can replenish it, so if you stay in the shower long enough, you will run out of hot water. And then it takes the water heater a long time to recover and get back up to temp where the thermostat shuts off the element.

Same thing happens with the AH. That 1700w element will heat up the water, but then when you call for the heat (labeled 'furnace' in the thermostat), hot water starts circulating through all the little hydronic radiators and they will pull the heat out of the AH tank a LOT faster than a 5700 btu/hr electric element can replenish it. The electric element will stay on, but the water temperature will continue to drop till the diesel burner fires. 

So unless you only need a LITTLE heat, the electric element will stay on continuously and the diesel will cycle. 

The term "heat strips" was used several times. That's something different. Heat strips could be installed in the AC units to provide resistive electric heat. I don't have heat strips in my heat-pumps and I doubt you have them either. 

The hydronic blowers will definitely run without the diesel or electric being on or hot. The thermostat doesn't know the state of the AH. When the thermostat is set to 'furnace', and it calls for heat, it sends a signal to the AH to start the pump and blowers. The pumps and blowers don't know or care if the boiler water is hot or not. It's like the heater in a car; if you jump in a cold car, your heater will blow cold until the engine warms the coolant. Same in your AH; if you boiler water is cold, the hydronic air will blow cold.

The old AHs are not very smart. There's the electric element that is controlled by a thermostat in the tank, and the diesel burner that is controlled by a separate thermostat in the tank, and that's about it as far as boiler tank temperature regulation. 

Cheers,

Walter

4 hours ago, Texomaman73 said:

... I let the electric only run for 2 hours and it didn't heat up the lines at all.  I checked the breaker in the bedroom and it was still on, and the fans never came on. 

I then fired up the diesel and the fans came on immediately and the lines started to heat.  The small indicator on the AH didn't come on at this time but it does come on later after the coach has reached the set point on all zones and the fans have shut off.  

After that nothing changes except that the lines will start cooling down.  I have not ever shut any of the switches off until the temp in the coach is well below where it should have come back on.  The fans will continue to run until I shut off the system but the diesel never fires back up to reheat, with either both switches on or just the diesel switch on (doesn't seem to matter).  

My AH is a 431/12  ser#99831

The fans do shut off when the zone is up to temp, but they come back on later when the room temp drops below set point.  After that they remain on apparently trying to heat the room back up.

Do you have an ammeter installed to monitor power usage in the motorhome? The electric element should draw about 14a when you turn on the 'water heater'. The current usage should tell you if the electric element is coming on.  Is your thermostat set to 'furnace' all this time, or are you changing the thermostat mode? 

I'm surprised that your hydronic fans come on only when the diesel switch is on. That's not how my 2003 behaves.  

After your diesel burner turns off, does the light on it also go out at some point later? The light on the diesel switch should stay ON. If that light goes out, it indicates the AH is having a fault and has shut down. I had a problem with my diesel ignitor where the ignitor would work when everything was cold, but after the unit heated up, the ignitor would later stop sparking and the unit would shut down. So it would go through at least one cycle and then at some point the burner would try and start back up, not detect flame, the light would go out and then the unit would shut down with a fault.

Cheers,

Walter

 


Aqua hot not working on heat strips?
96 EVO

Did you check for hot water after leaving just the electric element on for a while? If you have a 30A shore hookup, you could see on your EMS panel whether the power draw is increasing by about 13A when you turn on the electric element.

I think you have two separate issues. One on the diesel side, which I still think may be a faulty low temp thermostat in the boiler tank.

And the second on the electric side. It's possible the element has burned out. Rare, but possible. Even more possible if a previous owner was using tap water to replenish the overflow tank.


Aqua hot not working on heat strips?
David Pratt

My first question is; do you have the Owners Manual for your coach?

Your Aqua hot system is Model AHE100-01S. To operate the system to heat the coach turn on the Aqua hot diesel burner and set all your thermostats to furnace. The 01S system will not operate properly if all the zones are not set to the same mode. The diesel burner will ignite and heat the boiler and will cycle on and off when the thermostat in the Aqua hot reaches its preset temp of about 120 degF. The heat ex changers(fans) in the coach are controlled by the thermostats and will cycle on and off according to what temperature you have the thermostats set at. You can also turn on the electric side of the system and leave it on, it will not hurt anything.

When the diesel burner shuts itself off the blower will continue to run for 1 to 5 minutes to cool the combustion chamber of the Aqua hot. THIS IS NORMAL.

The Aqua hot does not have heat strips for the electrical portion part of the system. The Aqua hot uses a heating element that is similar to one that would be in you home  water heater. The 01S model does not have the option to switch over to diesel when the temperature gets lower than 45degF and you have the Heat Pumps on. This feature was available on later models introduced around 2004. It takes approximately 2 to 3 hours to heat the water in the Aqua hot and about 20 to 30 minute to heat the water on diesel.

The Aqua hot will consume about .5 gal of diesel per hour of operations.

I have attached the four pages from the owners manual for the operation of the Aqua hot system.

AHE100-01S_Executive - Aqua hot.pdf


Smart Wheel Puzzle
rpasetto

Thanks again, Kevin.  When I went to clean contacts on control box there were burn marks on pin 2 of J12, which I believe is the headlamp power feed.  I don't know if that's related or just another problem.

 

image.png.d5b227c2cb7a14223673092d9a7d0e10.png     image.png.7e8c923f576b408e06bfb89462fdbfe5.png  second picture of connector on box blurred, 


Girard Patio Awning goes Out not In
rpasetto

A few months ago I had a problem with my Girard Patio Awning (G2000?) stopping before it was fully retracted.  I called Girard support and the told me to bypass the current limiter box and then re-adjust the "out" and "in" limits with the hex tool.  Did that and all was OK... for months.  Yesterday, awning goes out not in... tried it a few times... waited then tried again.  It had been out for a few hours so I don't think it's an overheat issue from bringing it out then in multiple times.... 

Anyway I brought awning in manually.  I'm now on the road, not ready to do any tests but wonder if anyone has had this issue after bypassing current limiter.

Has anyone had this issue?

 

 


Parking brake does not disengage
96 EVO

09' Camelot will have disc's on the front, drums on drive and tag axles.


Surge Tank Replacement
mandms59
13 hours ago, throgmartin said:

Mark, the fittings are no longer welded into place. We discontinued that option because Monaco routed those lines in different directions on different coaches.

I am leaving in an hour on a trip so wont be at the shop. Check with Amy to be sure the tanks we have in inventory have the removable fittings. The other change we went to with the tanks is we went to a large sight glass. The sight glasses we use are fused glass good to 1,200 degrees. They are housed in a 316 stainless housing.

Chris thanks for the update... I will give Amy a call in the morning.  I wanted to confirm actual dimensions as Jim M. mentioned the size was wider than current diagram on website.

 

Bob- thanks again for info; I was thinking the same thing about capping off the red line, figuring air would find its way to the top through remaining lines if I did not want to mess with installing a Tee.

 

Regards/

Mark


Norcold 1200 parts
Steven P
On 9/20/2020 at 12:22 PM, RobertD said:

Steve;

My coach is in the shop having Gen rebuilt. As soon as they call me to pick it up I will get a few pictures of the item and get it to you. 
 

Thank you for getting back to me.  My e-mail is rcdresser@cox.net if you wish to contact me directly. 
 

Bob

Bob,

Still interested in the fridge parts?

Steven


Low Coolant Light
n42rv

Jeff

Just read your post, mine works the same way !

Charles


Is a Nason switch adjustable?
Frank McElroy

Bob - Thanks for the update.  FYI - Last December I updated the downloads (files) with the updated version.

 


Norcold 1200 parts
RobertD

Steve, I have been in the hospital battling cancer for the past week and did not get the pictures. I promise you I will get this week to you. So sorry for the delay. 


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