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Hydraulic pads extend, but won't retract.


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This is the first time i experienced this problem. My hydraulics worked every time. Today, I heard the bell sound when I came to a stop and wondered what was up with that. I turned on the hydraulic and pushed the up buttons and nothing happened.  When I pressed the extend button, they started to extend. Now the retract button on all 3 don't work they all engage to go down, but not up. Someone said to extend all the way down and it should correct itself. I hesitate to do that because, I won't be able to move the MH if all are extended. Any suggestions before I try that fix.  It got cold here in Texas (35 degrees) the last couple of nights and wondered if that had anything to do with it. I don't know where to start. Thanks. 2002 Monaco.

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It's possible the shiny piston surfaces have to be cleaned and lubed. I spray carb cleaner and then oil them and wipe off the excess. 

I also carry a six-foot 2" iron pipe to raise them if they do not fully retract; I've had to do this twice in 20 years until I could clean them up.

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Here's my experience. My jacks were retracting very slowly and would usually stop near the top (not quite completely up and stored). You could often see about 1/4 - 1/2" of silver (shiny) shaft and they simply would not go up any higher UNTIL I started the engine and literally moved the coach a bit. Then, they would "seat" themselves (fully retracted), my red light would shut off, and the green "travel" light would light up - but only after I moved the coach.

I talked with a woman at HWH support AND another man who I had been told was the "guru" of HWH (totally different phone number but don't remember who it was and have since lost the name and number due to computer issue). BOTH said the same thing... With jacks down, I should spray (until drippy) the shiny shaft with regular WD-40 and do NOT wipe off excess. Then put the jacks up and down a couple of times and then use them normally

I did this and it worked miracles. I have not had a problem since and have probably put them up/down at least 20 times - sometimes after setting for two weeks.

The guy told me during the phone call that they had tried various oils/lubricants to test this but the WD-40 worked best. It did for me. It was a cheap and fast fix. 

Good luck.

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Maybe I should clarify my problem just a bit. I have a 4 position switch. When I turn on the switch to engage the hydraulic extensions,  the north side of the switch engages and I can hear them working. When I press the south side of the switch to retract, nothing happen. It's dead. No noise nothing. I depress the south button "all" nothing happens, but all north side buttons engage the hydraulics. I think it's electrical not mechanical at this point.  Hope that helps explain it a little better. Thanks. Jimimage.thumb.png.cb8bbc8e92772f7f346ffb51df8defdb.pngybe I should clerify my problem just a bit. I have a 4

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Sounds electrical to me. Do the red/green/yellow lights give you any clue? Repeatedly activating all switches/buttons may clean their contacts.

To trace where you have/don't have 12v you can get at the jack switches by removing the console panel with the switches (you also may have to remove the brake switch from the panel to get enough working space to access the jack switches).

You have the same configuration as I do but I've never run into this problem. I've been in this console area to fix other problems. Sorry I cannot be more help.

 

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16 minutes ago, bobdinsmore said:

Sounds electrical to me. Do the red/green/yellow lights give you any clue? Repeatedly activating all switches/buttons may clean their contacts.

To trace where you have/don't have 12v you can get at the jack switches by removing the console panel with the switches (you also may have to remove the brake switch from the panel to get enough working space to access the jack switches).

You have the same configuration as I do but I've never run into this problem. I've been in this console area to fix other problems. Sorry I cannot be more help.

 

Thanks for the help. This just happened all of a sudden.  Never had a problem before. I think I will let it warm up first before I start taking things apart. It's just weird. I don't think I can retract the pads if the hydraulic fluid can't be reversed to allow the springs to bring them back. I'll keep you posted. Jim

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11 hours ago, Jim Andrews said:

Maybe I should clarify my problem just a bit. I have a 4 position switch. When I turn on the switch to engage the hydraulic extensions,  the north side of the switch engages and I can hear them working. When I press the south side of the switch to retract, nothing happen. It's dead. No noise nothing. I depress the south button "all" nothing happens, but all north side buttons engage the hydraulics. I think it's electrical not mechanical at this point.  Hope that helps explain it a little better. Thanks. Jimimage.thumb.png.cb8bbc8e92772f7f346ffb51df8defdb.pngybe I should clerify my problem just a bit. I have a 4

Pressing the retract buttons only actuate the solenoid valves to let the springs slowly retract the jacks.
You likely won't hear anything, but it can take a few minutes holding the switch to let the jacks fully retract.

If they will not retract with the switches, there are manual release valves on the solenoid assembly.  Mine is located in the front firewall.
Look for three small T-Handles, and turn them counter-clockwise to open the valves and let the jacks retract, then snug them back up.  Firm finger tight is all that's required.

Cleaning and lubing the rams will help, and also helps the seals to last much longer.
I use WD-40 any time my jacks have been extended for a while.
When I store the coach at home, I raise it with the jacks until the weight is off the suspension and the airbags bleed down, then I put jack stands under the frame and retract the jacks to keep the rams from being exposed.

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The picture you have shows the control for RVA jack system.  When you push the retract there won't be any sound of pump.  The jack springs retract the jacks the valves in the rear have to open to allow the oil to return to the reservoir.  The valves are mounted on the jack power unit which is most likely located behind the A/C cooler panel which is the first panel behind the left rear wheels.  On the valves there are T handles that can be turned to manually open the valves and retract the jacks.  If opening the valves manually doesn't get the jacks to retract, then you need to lube the jacks.  I use a good silicone spray on mine.  The jacks tend to be stiff when it 's cold.  You can get information here: RVA Jacks, RVA Leveling, RVA Jack, RVA Parts, Monaco Leveling Jacks, RVA Jacks Troubleshooting  

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Thanks for the help. I do know about the T-handle and they are retracted. I ran all three jacks down and red light cam on indicating they were down and used the T-handle to retract. The switch part is the only problem. The green light comes on when I turn the switch to the on position. The yellow and red light comes on like they should at the right times and also beeps.  When I push the "all" switch or individual switches, nothing happens. It used to beep until all jacks were retracted. When I release the T-Handles, the light go back to normal. I had a problem with the Bong sensor and supposedly was repaired a year and 1/2 ago.  I thinking that's where the problems might be. I can't seem to locate the Bong or the wiring to it. It seemed to be coming from under the dash.  

Oh, one more thing, when I started to unscrew the "remote switch" on the picture, they seemed to have a nut on the bottom. I only loosened 2 then stopped. I didn't want to drop the nuts in the crevasse never to be found. It looks like I will have to take the whole side panel off to get to the switches. Before, I did all of that, I want to check the Bong connections. Any guesses?

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