Outside Entertainment TV Dropped at Low-Battery

[Mocephus]

10 minutes ago, rvingstuff said:

Here is a picture of the interior of this TV mounting. If there are any electricians in this group, would you know/suggest what wire I could "jumper" to cause this TV to move up?

Hi, where did you find this module? How did you get to it?

[rvingstuff]

36 minutes ago, Mocephus said:

Hi, where did you find this module? How did you get to it?

Moved the oak shelf away from the wall. It was under that.  

[Mocephus]

54 minutes ago, rvingstuff said:

Moved the oak shelf away from the wall. It was under that.  

Ok thank you. I'll keep looking!

[dl_racing427]

10 hours ago, rvingstuff said:

Here is a picture of the interior of this TV mounting. If there are any electricians in this group, would you know/suggest what wire I could "jumper" to cause this TV to move up?

Looks like the interlock is already jumpered.

I'd say that on JP5, jump REF to OPEN or CLOSE to move the unit.
If this works, you problem is either the rocker switch or the wiring between the switch and this unit.
 

Edited February 12, 2021 by dl_racing427

[6Wheels]

Once you figure the operation out by testing JP5, you could get a SPDT momentary switch and hardwire it in permanently. Problem solved.

[Larry Laursen]

I just googled Lift it TV lifts and got this website: https://www.touchstonehomeproducts.com/collections/drop-down-tv-lift-mechanisms  You might want to check with them.

I did a little more searching on the part number and got this site: Lift It: Flip-Down Ceiling TV Lifts for LCD and Plasma Televisions (liftmytv.com)

[Dennis H]

I'd start with a meter and check for voltage on that box. REF appears it should be hot and the remote would click between that and OPEN/CLOSE, giving power to one or the other. If that's the case, then a simple three position toggle switch would do the trick. I'm just not sure what the jumper is for, but I'd try jumping between REF and Close. If that doesn't work, unhook the jumper on J4 and try jumping it again. If that fails then you need to trace the wire marked REF and look for a fuse. If the wire marked REF has no power, you might run a separate powered wire from a trusted source to the close terminal and see if it closes......Dennis

I just went back and looked at your picture, I had to stand on my head which I didn't do the first time. 😄 Since you have three wires attached to JP5 marked WIRED remote, that means you have a SWITCH somewhere in your system. Most likely THAT switch will have a relay and/or a fuse in that system. Running a hot lead to the middle terminal may not work as the relay wouldn't activate. I don't know for sure that a relay is necessary, just speculation. Try running a hot lead to the close terminal and let us know what happens.....Dennis

[rvingstuff]

10 minutes ago, Dennis H said:

I'd start with a meter and check for voltage on that box. REF appears it should be hot and the remote would click between that and OPEN/CLOSE, giving power to one or the other. If that's the case, then a simple three position toggle switch would do the trick. I'm just not sure what the jumper is for, but I'd try jumping between REF and Close. If that doesn't work, unhook the jumper on J4 and try jumping it again. If that fails then you need to trace the wire marked REF and look for a fuse. If the wire marked REF has no power, you might run a separate powered wire from a trusted source to the close terminal and see if it closes......Dennis

Good info. I've a neighbor who is an electrician looking at this also.

This all seems soooooo stupid on my part. But...

 

[Guest Ray Davis]

 

 Since no wires are connected to the other 3 screws labeled " Infrared "  I assume his coach only has a  wired remote.

 Anyway this is what he should be looking for , probably on the back wall of some upper cabinet 

[rvingstuff]

54 minutes ago, rvingstuff said:

Good info. I've a neighbor who is an electrician looking at this also.

This all seems soooooo stupid on my part. But...

 

I've jumpered this box with zero results. Not even any noise from electricity trying to do something.

I'm thinking of simple (?) cutting the wires from that box and connecting a manual switch.

2 hours ago, Larry Laursen said:

I just googled Lift it TV lifts and got this website: https://www.touchstonehomeproducts.com/collections/drop-down-tv-lift-mechanisms  You might want to check with them.

I did a little more searching on the part number and got this site: Lift It: Flip-Down Ceiling TV Lifts for LCD and Plasma Televisions (liftmytv.com)

Larry:

The second one is the company who built this product. But they are out of business - except selling their excess inventory now. But NO ONE answers their phone.

I'm checking on the first link.

31 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

 

 Since no wires are connected to the other 3 screws labeled " Infrared "  I assume his coach only has a  wired remote.

 Anyway this is what he should be looking for , probably on the back wall of some upper cabinet 

Yup!! My thoughts are to first cut into the wires on that box (rather than completely cut through them and place a switch on that.

[Dennis H]

Placing a switch on the wires will not do anything if there's NO POWER. To activate the lift mechanism will require power to the lift mechanism. So, here's another alternative. Can you access the back of the unit? If so, remove the lift mech. bolts and manually lift the TV into place and/or remove the TV completely. You MUST have POWER to that box in order for it to work. Grab 12VDC from your front run box or directly from your house battery bank.  Touch it to the close terminal and see if it works. Cutting the wires will do nothing. Do you have a meter to check for voltage? If not, your electrician friend should have one. Have him show you how to use it and get yourself one. Harbor Freight has them cheap, albeit marginally effective. Finally, there are NO stupid questions. Some answers might sound stupid, but there are no stupid questions. That's how we learn. Yesterday, you didn't know that box existed. Today you do! 😁 See! you're smarter today than you were yesterday....Dennis

[rvingstuff]

2 minutes ago, Dennis H said:

Placing a switch on the wires will not do anything if there's NO POWER. To activate the lift mechanism will require power to the lift mechanism. So, here's another alternative. Can you access the back of the unit? If so, remove the lift mech. bolts and manually lift the TV into place and/or remove the TV completely. You MUST have POWER to that box in order for it to work. Grab 12VDC from your front run box or directly from your house battery bank.  Touch it to the close terminal and see if it works. Cutting the wires will do nothing. Do you have a meter to check for voltage? If not, your electrician friend should have one. Have him show you how to use it and get yourself one. Harbor Freight has them cheap, albeit marginally effective. Finally, there are NO stupid questions. Some answers might sound stupid, but there are no stupid questions. That's how we learn. Yesterday, you didn't know that box existed. Today you do! 😁 See! you're smarter today than you were yesterday....Dennis

Thanks.

[Dennis H]

OK, I just noticed another thing with your box. It takes 120VAC power! Check there to see if you have 120VAC TO the unit itself. Look at the right side of the box, left side of your picture. See where it says 120VAC 10A. That means you have a relay somewhere in your system. That relay may be bad or one of your breakers has tripped. Look in your rear run bay for a tripped breaker or relay. Some relays have a simple arm that moves to reset them. When your batteries went low that relay could have tripped or the battery thingy might simply be coincidence. But I'd check for 120VDC voltage where it enters that box. If there's none you might want to trace backwards from there. There is a way to jumper that but if you're not electrically inclined, I'd leave that to your friend.....keep us posted....Dennis

[Guest Ray Davis]

 Have you looked at the breakers ( 120v ) in the house elect panel?    I didn't see if you had checked those.  Actually this is the most logical place   to start and it may not be labeled as such

 The lift mechanism may be 120v with no 12v involved.   The control box shows 2 outputs, one for the TV the other for the lift mechanism           both are labeled 120v.

 The jumper wire JP4 appears to be factory installed.   Here is a picture of the controller from the web site that Larry linked   to https://liftmytv.com/liftparts/index.php?   rt=product/product&product_id=131

 Have you checked to see if the tv will come on?  If it will come on that will show you have 120v power coming into and out of the controller.     You could also plug a lamp into the receptacle marked TV outlet on the controller to determine if power is at that point.

Edited February 12, 2021 by Ray Davis

[rvingstuff]

42 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

 Have you looked at the breakers ( 120v ) in the house elect panel?    I didn't see if you had checked those.  Actually this is the most logical place   to start and it may not be labeled as such

 The lift mechanism may be 120v with no 12v involved.   The control box shows 2 outputs, one for the TV the other for the lift mechanism           both are labeled 120v.

 The jumper wire JP4 appears to be factory installed.   Here is a picture of the controller from the web site that Larry linked   to https://liftmytv.com/liftparts/index.php?   rt=product/product&product_id=131

 Have you checked to see if the tv will come on?  If it will come on that will show you have 120v power coming into and out of the controller.     You could also plug a lamp into the receptacle marked TV outlet on the controller to determine if power is at that point.

Thanks for this.

 

I received the following from LiftIt: "

The JP5 Connection is dry contact, low voltage connection. The switch we used was a momentary switch. You had to press and hold the switch to either open or close. You can test by using needle nose plyers. Or a jumper wire. Jump across open and reference to open, or close and Ref to close   Make sure the manual override is pulled all the way out. See attached   

The photo or the remote sent earlier, never worked with the control box shown in photo. Monaco did not use remotes (on these units), typically they operated the lift using the JP5 connection through their multiplex system.   
 

Also, this is my status:

Verified there is power (but had to first pull the electrical plug for that box out and then reinsert) there is power to that box.

NOW my jumper cables will work!!!! But my new problem is that lift will only “lift” about 3” to 4” and then it drops back down. It appears that the unit – the lift – is binding on something inside the lift itself. Checking on that now.

[dl_racing427]

1 hour ago, rvingstuff said:

Thanks for this.

 

I received the following from LiftIt: "

The JP5 Connection is dry contact, low voltage connection. The switch we used was a momentary switch. You had to press and hold the switch to either open or close. You can test by using needle nose plyers. Or a jumper wire. Jump across open and reference to open, or close and Ref to close   Make sure the manual override is pulled all the way out. See attached   

The photo or the remote sent earlier, never worked with the control box shown in photo. Monaco did not use remotes (on these units), typically they operated the lift using the JP5 connection through their multiplex system.   
 

Also, this is my status:

Verified there is power (but had to first pull the electrical plug for that box out and then reinsert) there is power to that box.

NOW my jumper cables will work!!!! But my new problem is that lift will only “lift” about 3” to 4” and then it drops back down. It appears that the unit – the lift – is binding on something inside the lift itself. Checking on that now.

Your last statement leads me to believe that the internal gears in the lift are stripped.
You mentioned a manual override.  Is that a crank of some kind, or does it just disconnect the gears and allow you to manually lift the TV?
Also, if the override is a disconnect, it could be partially disengaged allowing the geartrain to slip.  Double check that it is fully engaged.