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Buy a couple of large jugs of Diesel Kleen from Walmart and use it in the next 4 tanks of fuel when you fill up.

I always use a blend of Diesel Kleen and Biobor JF for a few tanks while traveling from one destination to the other. Then I always make sure to use it on my last fill-up before parking the coach for our extended stay.

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On 4/5/2021 at 8:10 AM, Paul Busch said:

Turns out engine check code was failing injector. Still seems to run pretty good. Any additive I can use to improve? Looks like big job to change myself.

paul

Paul, 

Are you still using the original spec for the secondary fuel filter, 23530707? This is a 9-micron filter and DD changed their spec in the late 2000s for the Series 60 to a tighter filter, 23533726, which I think was 5-micron. I’ve been using a Donaldson cross-reference, P556917, that’s 3-micron ever since I had two injectors fail during a cross-I10 run back in 2011. Gulf Shores to Phoenix smoking like a steam locomotive. This was after I had an injector freeze up back in 2007, sacrificing a rocker arm and flooding the crankcase with diesel fuel. I’ve tightened up all my filters since (primary, secondary, generator, Aqua-hot) while staying within the GPH requirements. 

Years ago I switched to mostly Donaldson filters on the recommendation of Bill D. Like Richard S, I use a compound additive of OptiLube and Biobor JF, also based on recommendations made here over the years.

Keep an eye out for continuing injector issues, and by that I mean a eye on the right rear view. Once they start to go bad, you’ll start seeing smoke, almost like a cracked CAC. When I had to have mine replaced, it was close to the same parts cost for all six in a pack as for the three (two failed and one starting to) I needed, so I had WWWilliams do them all.

https://shop.donaldson.com/store/cartridges/ProductDetails-DCI/?_DARGS=/store/cartridges/ProductDetails-DCI/ProductDetails-DCI.jsp.1#

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2 hours ago, Paul Busch said:

George, Which optiLube are you using?

Paul,

I use the OptiLube "Summer" formula. We spend the winters in AZ and really don't travel to cold enough weather to need the "Winter" formula, and I haven't tried any of the other variations.

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George,

I am leaving in a little while and won’t be able to order the optiLube you recommended. I picked up some BG 245 from NAPA. Do you think it would hurt to run it for a tankful till I get to where I will be for a while to order the other product?

I also have some DieselKleene with Cetene Boost. Could I run that? I am trying to clean up one injector before it dies. I am leaving on the 16th for about an 750 mile trip and will be parked for another month then.

paul

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I know this is not the input you really want to hear but I wouldn’t drive 700 miles with a bad injector. If it’s stuck open it will dump fuel in that cylinder and wash it which could contribute to cylinder damage and also contaminate your oil which could comprise other moving engine parts. 

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1 hour ago, Paul Busch said:

George,

I am leaving in a little while and won’t be able to order the optiLube you recommended. I picked up some BG 245 from NAPA. Do you think it would hurt to run it for a tankful till I get to where I will be for a while to order the other product?

I also have some DieselKleene with Cetene Boost. Could I run that? I am trying to clean up one injector before it dies. I am leaving on the 16th for about an 750 mile trip and will be parked for another month then.

paul

Paul,

I think the concern I would have, echoing what Steven A said, is that any additive might not “recover” an injector that’s failing to the point of throwing a code. I’m not sure you mentioned how you determined the code (code reader vs DDA shop pulling codes), and if you had any other symptoms other than the code. If just a single code, maybe a fluke and a trip would be low risk. If smoke, de-rating, overheating on minor grades, smell of diesel fuel on the dipstick, or loss of power, well then I’d probably have a shop look at it before a trip.

In terms of additives, that can be kind of a Ford/Chevy thing, with everyone having a favorite. I’d use what I had on hand before switching brands.

As I think I mentioned earlier, I’ve had two injector issues since 2007. The first threw no codes, just froze up. I drove maybe 5 miles before the oil pressure dropped as the crankcase was flooded with fuel. The second time, nothing froze up but I started throwing smoke, hard. Decided to try to make the run from Gulf Shores to Phoenix more or less non-stop. Started seeing “check engine” around San Antonio and overheating on minor grades in Hill Country. This continued all through New Mexico and into Arizona, and I had to keep “engine load” (SilverLeaf) under 75-85%, no matter how slow I got on hills. But, we made it to home and I was then able to let WWWilliams have the rig for several day$ to get the repairs done.

As an aside, I can throw codes for no particular reason, relatively often. “Check Engine” will come on and might clear in a few seconds, or might not until the next restart. Mostly it happens when driving ~25-30 MPH on flat ground. Sometimes I can clear it by goosing the accelerator. Other times, I have to press the up/down buttons on the speedo to turn off the noise. It’ll do something similar if I leave Jake Low on too long descending a hill. I toggle between Low and High to avoid this. When I check the SilverLeaf log files, there is usually a bunch of gobbledygook. Neither the SilverLeaf nor DDA people can explain it, other than “noise on the bus”. I’ve learned to live with it...

 

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George. 
I was coming through West Virginia last October it started when I was climbing the long hills and quit descending and after a few hours the check engine stayed on. I might have had the tranny in Economy mode. I couldn’t tell with the light and sunlight. The tranny was stuttering while up shifting but that cleared up ounce we got out of the hills. According to Aladdin engine and tranny never overheated. The red flashing light is on all the time now when running. I can lower the warning noise and put tape over the red light to get by. It never has smoked and doesn’t now.

I had a mobile tech come out from San Antonio Monday to read the codes. He seemed competent. He said the was an old code FLUID LEVEL SENSOR which someone on this site had suggested. I had changed that last week. He cleared that old code and it stayed cleared. My coolant is full. My oil is clean, no coolant in it. My tranny is full. It was about 3quarts low which I added a couple weeks ago. I changed tranny fluid and filters a couple years ago, about 15,000 ago.

I know cleaners might not resurrect a failed injector but am hopeful I might be able to clean it if not to far gone since no smoke. One of the problems I have with these guys is for 165.00 they stand around, scratch their heads and say they don’t know. The accumulated knowledge on the site is the best resource I have come across.

I changed fuel filters, hydraulic filter and fluids all are good. I have not really added any additives so am going to give it a try. 
thanks Paul

 

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Ernie,

I only have the Aladdin which came with the coach. I usually drive with the engine diagnostic on which reads engine and tranny on a split screen. Rpms, temp, speed, gear, and fuel mileage among other things. It seems to work well.

paul

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This is the scan code that guy read on my series 60 check engine light. Does anyone know if this is serious? I don’t know what level 1 means. The engine starts and runs good.

paul

I forgot to attach photos 

image.jpg

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