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Powergear Hydraulic Jack leak


Scotty Hutto
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Scotty,

In my endeavor to find a way to repair or replace the small 12 VDC electric motor that drives my hydraulic fluid pump for the Generator slide I came across a person who owns/works for a company in Cincinnati Ohio called Affordable Hose & Fittings. His name is Michael and I would bet that they could repair that hydraulic cylinder as they do a lot of work on snow plowing equipment. But that would require removing the cylinder and shipping it. I would also think that there may be a hydraulic shop in the area where you reside that could do the same thing.

I had a small hydraulic leak that happened in my main hydraulic system for my side radiator fan/steering systems. I purchased two quarts of a hydraulic conditioner/sealer from Amazon, added one bottle to the reservoir and no more small leaks. Here is a link to it. https://tinyurl.com/qpf5nnp

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You can rebuild these jacks fairly easily if you are inclined to do so. If the rod is not scored all you will need to do is replace the seals and maybe the wear ring. You can disassemble the jack by unscrewing the bottom with a chain wrench after heating it with a propane torch to release the loctite. Check out the Power Gear web site for instructions and part numbers for parts kits. Their instructions are good.
Alternatively, you can disassemble your jack and take the seals to a hydraulic parts shop. They can match them up. 
Also, if you are on IRV2, I posted a white paper I wrote a couple years ago when I rebuilt one of my rear jacks after the piston partly unscrewed from the rod. Search under RMCB. 
 

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Scotty

Did you confirm where the jack is leaking?  A while back on IRV2 someone posted about a jack leaking and I suggested they check the fittings.  They wrote back and said that was it, simply tightened the fitting.

The hydraulic jack is fairly simple as it only has pressure on the barrel side of the piston and relies on the springs to pull it back in.   It also in a light duty application, the number of strokes per year (let alone per minute in normal construction equipment applications) is low.  Hardly ever hear of a jack actually failing. 

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Scotty?  Is it leaking externally, onto the ground?  If not then it could be the the solenoid valve is leaking back to the resevoir.  Or maybe the bypass valve is leaking.  Try opening the bypass valve and let fluid flush out the needle valve before tightening the valve back.

Rick M

00 Exec

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Thanks everyone!  Unfortunately, the cylinder (shiny part) was badly damaged and ripped the seal.  After removing some of the damaged material I was able to get the jack to retract and made it to the Gathering. 

I will have to replace the jack.

Thanks again for the help and suggestions.

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Scotty,

That’s unfortunate. I think when I checked, these jacks were in the $700-1,000 range. The rod (I think that’s what you mean) is not a complicated part. Someone with access to a lathe, welder and a piece of hydraulic rod could make a new one. Although if you had to pay his wages, it may not be cost effective.
I for one would be interested in hearing how it got scored. Perhaps foreign material got under the wiper? The duty cycle on these cylinders is so low, it’s hard to believe it wore out. 
Good luck with your repair.

Regards,

Roy

 

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It is definitely foreign object damage.  The rod looks like someone bounced a chainsaw down it.  Multiple scores about 1” long with big metal chips hanging off the end. I’ll try to get a picture...

For the life of me I can’t figure out how this happened!

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That sounds pretty extreme. Maybe something got jammed into the wiper or wrapped around the rod. With the seals and wear rings there shouldn’t be any metal to metal contact in normal operation, unless the rod is bent.

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Sounds like a new rod will be needed and today's machine shop prices probably cheaper and faster to order new.    A new rod will have to be chromed, if it's an odd dimension might be harder to find and cost $$$$. 

I had an end gland break on my Kubota tractor and the local machine shop near me estimated a price higher then I could buy a new one from. 

You may check salvage shops for a used one. 

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Resolution: After much back-and-forth with PowerGear (who was VERY helpful), determined it was a PowerGear 501136.  New price $1,227 + tax + shipping.  Found one in good shape off of another 2006 Diplomat at Visone RV for $425.  Even if I put a new seal kit in it I’m way ahead of the game!

Once I get the old Jack out I’ll try to get some pics to show the damage, just from the “for what it’s worth” department.

Scotty

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